• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.155-168
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• 2011

This study aims at analyzing the Mix & Match fashion trend expressed in the Ready to Wear collections shown in 27 collections of 3 designers(Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Comme des Gar$\c{c}$ons) over the past five years from 2007S/S to 2011S/S, and the results are as follows. 1) The characteristics were a combination of past and modern, the past and past prominent fashions combined at a different time, these styles and details were seen in Alexander McQueen's collection. 2) The properties of combination were expressed as a clash of cultures, such as East and West or African and European. 3) The characteristics of the combinations were expressed by differences in purpose, such as outer garments or underwear. 4) Artistic combinations of Mixing & Matching happen through a component confusion of art and garments. 5) The characteristics of Mixing & Matching fashion were expressed in images, especially in the case of Jean Paul Gaultier.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.35-42
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus' appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.28-42
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• 2017

Moisture transfer characteristics of high emotional garments are important to evaluate wear comfort. Wicking and drying measurement methods are also critical for perspiration absorption and quick dry fabric made of high functional fibers. In this study, the wicking and drying properties of high emotional fabrics made from hybrid composite yarns using CoolMax, Tencel, Bamboo staple fibers and PP. PET CoolMax filaments were also measured and analyzed according to various measuring methods. The wicking property of hybrid composite yarn fabrics by Bireck method was mostly influenced by the structure of hybrid yarns than the absorption rate of constituent fibers; however, both the hygroscopicity of fibers and the composite yarn structure affected the wicking property of the fabrics in the drop method. Concerning drying properties, the KSK 0815B method measuring distilled moisture weight was more relevant to explain the drying characteristics of hybrid yarn fabrics than the KSK 0815A method measuring the time to drying. This study revealed that the drying properties of hybrid yarn fabrics were influenced by the hygroscopicity of constituent fibers, wicking properties of constituent yarns and structure of composite yarns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.60-70
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• 2017

This study selects representative materials and sewing methods used to: produce medical compression clothing in domestic garment, understand physical properties according to sewing conditions before and after knitting, and propose a sewing method that can improve the functional properties of the medical pressure clothing for burn patients. This experiment used samples from two knitted fabrics of high-frequency, produced and sold among fabrics used to produce medical compression clothing in Korea. Sewing methods were N321, N502 and N601, most commonly used in the press clothing industry. Fabric A is most often reduced in EMT values when sewing N502. However, N321 and N502 are suitable sewing methods for the reliable to twist at the larger torsional shear and the larger 2HG, 2HG5 value. Fabric B is sewn with N601, the EMT value is the most elevated, LT value is also low and extensibility improves after sewing. N601 is shown as an appropriate sewing method for warp knitting. When sewing with N321, the torsional is stable but elongation is lacking. N502 is not good for torsional stability.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.139-150
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• 2013

Fast fashion companies have generated enormous amounts of clothing and large quantities of unsold or short-lived clothing end up in the landfill. As if to counter fast fashion, sustainable fashion has arisen for environmentally friendly garments at different levels from the fiber stage to production stage. However it is still fraught with uncertainty of systems in the industry. Therefore, this study proposed a system to create re-valued clothing from recycled garments for retailers. The target companies are large-sized retailers like Levi's, Polo, Gap, or J-Crew which are consistently producing basic items such as Levi's 501 or Classic Polo shirts with middle-prices. At the material stage, this study recommended additional requirements of designing a garment with a long life cycle based on criteria of an ideal garment developed by Patagonia clothing company. Then, this study explored innovative ways that retailers might connect with consumers to allow direct interaction between them in terms of the process of collecting used clothes. Using recycled clothing as a source material, this study strove to offer a process of redesign where the concept of 'waste to fashion' is developed as reconstructions where old forms are transformed into new ones.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.526-539
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• 2005

Recently in the apparel industry, early adolescent girls are emerging as a new consumer group. In response to this, companies are developing clothes, cosmetics, underwear, etc. This study proposed a new size range and size interval for early adolescent girls and presented reference measurements for body parts necessary in designing clothes. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, frequency analysis. Based on the results, this study proposed: for Type A - 7 sizes (140A-67, 145A-65, 145A-69, 150A-69, 150A-73, 155A-73, 155A-76): for Type X - 7 sizes (150x-72, 155x-72, 155x-77, 160x-77, 160x-80, 165x-77, 165x-80); and for Type H - 8 sizes (145H-74, 145H-82, 150H-78, 150H-82, 155H-82, 155H-86, 160H-86, 160H-88). Reference measurements suggested for upper garments were 9 items. The outcome of this study may be used as a basic material for adolescent apparel manufacturers to set their apparel sizing system and to supply their consumers, namely, adolescent girls with products fitting their somatotype.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.420-431
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• 2019

This paper evaluates the potential of dynamic graphical patterns in future-driven fashion design using computer graphics that enables changes to the visual appearance of a textile for aesthetic, expressive or communicative purposes. In particular, it focuses on experimenting with the possibility of creating digitalized dynamic fashion garments that are illustrated digitally using motion graphics developed collaboratively in a virtual space. Three objectives were formed and addressed. First, a dynamic graphical pattern was defined that also investigated the cases of tangible and virtual dynamic patterns in textiles and garments to identify current situations and future prospects in terms of functional techniques and expressive effects. Ten digital fashion illustrations were then created in collaboration with a group of graphic designers and motion artists to visualize dynamic graphical patterns changing over time. Four types of dynamic fashion illustrations were also introduced in their methodological and expressive aspects. Last, some findings resulted from digital works that led to implications for future studies on tangible dynamic fashion designs. This study proposed that computer graphics and digital imaging technologies integrated into a virtual fashion that creates eye-catching and futuristic dynamic fashion designs that can customize colors and patterns according to the desires of wearers or users.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.77-83
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• 2006

The ability to customize garments for fit in the apparel industry is directly tied to the availability of comprehensive and accurate sets of anthropometrical data for each consumer. The data for apparel sizing systems is available from three major standard/ research organizations: ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials), ISO (International Standard Organization), and NCHS (National Center for Health Statistics). However, these standards ignore various head shapes and are outdated for the development future head products. This creates a data gap an ever changing multi-cultural society such as the United Sates. Although major government and industry safety organizations recognize the importance of safety for head products, few studies were found to support their reasoning. The purpose of this study is to provide accurate head dimension data for developing safety head products by analyzing various head shapes in the United Sates which includes various ethnic backgrounds. This study was carried out on 105 males in the United States. Factor analysis, cluster analysis, Moreover, Duncan analysis were all used for analyzing various head shapes.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.14-25
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to define mass customization in the apparel industry and to discover, the apparel industry's potential to deliver customized apparel products. Different from product-centered mass Production, mass customization is focusing on customers' unique needs. The goal of mass customization is for customers to find exactly what they want at a reasonable price. Using new technologies such as 3-D body scanning and digital printing, mass customization can give customers customfit and personalized garments. Mass customization can satisfy a customer in terms of personalization, fit and design. Adoption of mass customization will open new opportunities for the apparel manufacturer of the future. Mass customization is a strategy that apparel manufacturers should consider for their goals.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.1968-1979
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• 2010

New technology that includes 3D body scanning, digital virtual human, and digital virtual garments has had a significant impact on the current apparel industry. Virtual simulation technology enables the visualization of a 3D virtual garment on a virtual avatar so that consumers can try on garments with their virtual avatars before purchasing. However, the manual virtual avatar provided for online apparel shopping currently has revealed limitations on the different body sizes and shapes of customers. This study analyzes the process of designing the automatic virtual avatar and the manual virtual avatar using OptiTex software; in addition, the study compares the practicality of the automatic virtual avatar with that of the manual virtual avatar. Data was examined by evaluating how much each virtual avatar is similar to the real body and how well it matched the needs of the current apparel industry. In the study, Avatar 1 was automatically created from three-dimensional body scan data and Avatar 2 was manually created from body measurements. The virtual avatar images laid over a real body image and the results were evaluated by comparing the simulated sizes of virtual avatars with those of a real body. Consequently, Avatar 1 was evaluated as more similar to the real body than Avatar 2 in all five body shapes. This study illustrates that an automatic virtual avatar might solve the fit problem that is the most common reason for a high return rate for online shopping. The results show that future virtual simulation technology needs to be improved for the practicality of the virtual avatars.