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http://dx.doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.1.35

A Study on Formative Characteristics and Symbolic Meanings of Emphasizing Phallus in Costume - Focusing on Codpiece -  

Bae, Yun Jee (Dept. of Clothing & Textile, Seoul National University)
Ha, Ji Soo (Dept. of Clothing & Textile, Seoul National University)
Publication Information
Fashion & Textile Research Journal / v.16, no.1, 2014 , pp. 35-42 More about this Journal
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus' appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.
Keywords
codpiece; emphasis of phallus; patriarchal ideology; eroticism; sub-culture;
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