• 복식
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.66-78
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• 2004

A leather clothes which was a representative item of an existed resistant image created a new esthetics. Cyber Resistance, being mixed with the highlighted cyber image in these days. Especially. the image of such new leather clothes appears apparently in SF movies. The purpose of this study is to examine this new esthetics through the leather clothes of the movie. $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$. currently becoming the subject of a conversation and affecting to a popular culture and the fashion and to help to the design idea of a unique leather clothes. The result of analyzing of the character in the movie is following. Trinity shows herself as a woman warrior by wearing tight black leather suit. Morpheus is described as a vague character with his old fashioned suit and leather trench coat. while Niobe carries an image of rebellious cyber warrior in her leather suit with unique texture. In addition. leather clothes on $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$ got the name of Matrix look and became a main theme in fashion collection. We can feel 'Cyber Resistance' esthetics in that leather clothes through the movie and fashion collection and summarize into three following features, First. it's grafted into the dichotomous value by progress and return as a retro futurism. Second. it moderately express a rebellious image of punk into a cyber image. Third. it makes cyber warrior's image that is neutralized mixing military and fetish properly.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.317-326
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• 2002

This study is to analyze the works introduced in the collections of Paco Rabanne in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. Paco Rabanne's fashion philosophy is to shine women who has passion, energy and self-confidence, with glittering materials. For he had a career of fashion accessary designer and architect, he tried to make his work constructively with non-sewing technology. So, his works could be divided three parts of materials which he has made creative fashion with. They are metallic, non-metallic and fabric. In metallic, design concepts are cosmos, egypt, the middle ages, modern technology. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by the futurism, cubism and eroticism. In non-metallic, building, purism of primitiveness, nature. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by surrealism, primitivism, romantism. In fabric, design concepts are natural phenomena, optical illusion. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by cubism, optical art.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.173-183
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• 2004

The techno fashion presents the new formative beauty of fashion with a stream of light and dynamic phenomenon on human body. Also it opens the futurism arising from the combination of technology with fashion. The purpose of this paper was to investigate the internal trend and external form that techno-fashion aims at, and to analyze the expressive characteristics in design. The results were as follows. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion created the new formative artifact through the dismantlement and reorganization of form. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion used the composition of the geometrical abstraction as an expression of beauty symbolizing the modernity. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion created the diverse colors by using the light along with colors of gold, silver, metal, intense fundamental colors, and artificial rotor. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion expressed the dynamism, brilliance, youthfulness, futuristic image by using the sense of dazzling brightness by means of metal. ${\cdot}$ The techho fashion along with the development of science and technology made the atmosphere of silhouette of clothes different by expanding the category of materials more widely, together with the possibility of continual emergence of new material. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion expressed the dynamic movement on clothes and gave the sense of periodical rhythm by the reflective action of light when they were clad. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion grafted wearable technology into the fashion and made the information instruments recognized as a concept of clothes. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion pursued the values of not only the beauty of the simple geometrical design, but also the values of functionality and expressed the image of high quality of life through the harmony of technology with human.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.519-531
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• 2012

This study comprehends the various expressions of Lady Gaga's fashion style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. This study analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulate of Strategy, and Hybridization in addition, it studied all aspects of the aesthetic value of Lady GaGa (an influential popular culture icon). It was classified in the external representation of the fashion style for the aesthetic value. The results are summarized as follows: First, 'Borrow' of the singers of the 80's music and fashion style present from her elders and visual homage to shock artists. It influenced her fans with a difference in viewpoint for a star's fashion that subsequently resulted in a deformation of form, playful kitsch style, and mixed gender. Second, 'Site specificity' presents an extreme make over through an intentional and grotesques fashion style to extend physical territory and defenseless. The results remove stereotypes and reveal deconstructive performances. Third, 'Accumulate of strategy' simultaneously presents voluptuous beauty, futurism, and avant-garde style. This shows the countercultural tendency through the random repetition of fashion images and layerd coordination. Finally, 'Hybridization' presents multiful fashion style through a collaboration with world-famous designers and cosmetic brands. She expressed a diverse and complex fashion style composed of an art form that combines a high-tech cyborg image. The aesthetic values of Lady Gaga' fashion style are 'ambivalence virtuality', 'Transcendental mixed gender', 'plural textuality', and 'unexpected play culture'.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.159-170
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• 2005

In this paper we examine the patterns of the subcultural fashion styles in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. First, we define the concept of the subcultural fashion styles and in turn, examine the subcultural fashion styles from 1950s to 1990s while focusing on the way each generation resisted against the mainstream through its styles. The subcultural fashion styles examined and analyzed in this study are mainly British and American styles. some of European and Western Indian styles are also included. In this paper, a subcultural fashion style is understood as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity. And as a result, it is realized in a form of a fashion with its repressed subconsciousness, with resistance to the alienation from the society, and with deviation from the normative ethics and the morality of a society. In conclusion, we classify the subcultural fashion styles into two patterns based on their form of resistance which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day: the dressing of the escape from time and the dressing of the escape from space. The first pattern is characterized by nostalgia or futurism, and includes psychedelic, rastafarian, raver, techno style. The second Pattern includes surfer, folky, hippy, new age traveller, cyberpunk style. Especially, an emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.102-114
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• 2000

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing. Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in manifestos on clothes. Futurist fashion propagated in consummate Futurist style through the written manifesto. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Clothing, men's clothing is aggressive, agile, dynamic, simple and comfortable, hygienic, gay, luminous, volatile, asymmetric and variable. In Futurist Manifesto on Woman's Clothing, woman is now a principal agent of revolt, a walking synthesis of the audacious, performance-oriented aesthetic of the futurist universe. For Futurist woman's clothing they claimed ingenuity, daring, and economy. The Futurist Manifesto of Italian Hat was continued with their provocative style and radical ambition. Their innovation will rescue a lagging Italian expert and restore the Italian male to his former Iatin Vigor. Speed, dynamic, utility, and funtionality are the main characters. In Futurist Manifesto of Italian Cravat, Futurist cravat is called Anti-cravatta, which is anti-traditional style and made of unconventional materials. In general, the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. These Futurist fashion project were invention of the new style, avant-garde style, in daily wear and were realized for the renewal of taste in clothing design as a modernizing factors.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.71-80
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• 2001

Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.72-86
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• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.1061-1068
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• 2007

The study has sought to explore how fashion emerges as a comprehensive tool of dress for increasing its brand appeal and express one's artistic sense and fashion by using everything from make-up to hair to trappings. Therefore, when it comes to fashion trends reflected in collections, the study is designed to improve understanding of make-up as one of the elements of total fashion and to help create diverse ideas in expressing creative and free make-up that can help perfect fashion concept in harmony with all the other elements. The study has pondered upon collection, trends and fashion make-up through literature study, and has gathered image data via the Internet. It also has conducted analysis of Ethnic style reconstructed combining past and the future, East and the West, and futurism style using asymmetrical forms without no defined patterns and hi-tech textures, which emerges as a result of post-modernism. The results of the study are as follows. Ethnic fashion that pursues strange and exotic beauty is characterized by its simple and idyllic images of traditional costume in Asia or primitive clothes in Africa. Make-up represent images of matt and pale skin, tanned yellow, glossy and thickly powered squeaky white skin. Point make-up highlighted eye lines, red chick, small and voluptuous red lips. Hair and accessory seeks diversity combining various ethnic styles together such as oriental, Indian, Islam and Africa. In addition, future-oriented fashion of the 21st century, twists in texture, various kinds of materials and changes in technique help give impressions of freedom and bizarreness.