• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.95-104
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• 2018

This study classified the figurative features of the raglan sleeves presented in the Spring and Summer Collections and Fall and Winter Collections abroad in 2010 and 2018 and analyzed the production methods and patterns of the classified raglan sleeves. The analysis results are described below. The raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends were classified into Type H, Type A, Type O and Type Y per shape. The production features of raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends included the cutting lines in various shapes, a flounce that made shoulders look wider, and decorations such as gathers, studs, punching, slits, pleats and tucks. The raglan sleeve design was classified into Yoke Raglan, Armhole Princess Raglan, Semi Raglan, Gathered Raglan, Pleats Raglan, Cowl Raglan, Origami Raglan, Circular Curved Raglan, Capes Raglan and Constructive Design Raglan and the patterns per design were presented. For creative and experimental clothing by the analysis of the features of raglan sleeve structure, a variety of configuration methods need to be developed and implemented. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles as the basis for further study on the configuration methods of raglan sleeves. This study will be used in various ways as education materials on sleeve patterns in the educational field. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of raglan sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.161-172
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• 2019

This study examines the characteristics and recent changes of the Hanbok industrial cluster in Gwangju Metropolitan City, in order to understand the problems in the activation of the Hanbok industry and to seek future policies. A total 32 companies comprise the 'Small Manufacturer Specialized Support Center of Hanbok' and were surveyed with a 41 questions with questions in four categories. The Gwangju Hanbok area has been in existence for more than 40 years and was composed of small groups of one or two manufacturers. They are experiencing the same difficulties as other Hanbok clusters, such as the aging of workers, the downturn of dress culture, and changing consumption paradigms. However, since 2015, various efforts have been made in order to seek countermeasures to cope with such difficulties, particularly with the foundation of the 'Small Manufacturer Specialized Support Center of Hanbok' with the support of the Ministry of Small Venture Business. This study focuses on the alterations in the current Hanbok industry due to the IT industrialization as well as the changes in the locations of the Hanbok clusters due to the revitalization of old towns by local governments., The results providing an opportunity to appreciate the problems therein and seek the solutions. Small manufacturers of the Hanbok cluster are trying to improve their entrepreneurship, digital technology application, and knowledge in accordance with the socio-economic trends, but they have limitations to practically apply it to business, barely keeping the minimum production base. The central government and the Gwangju should reinforce and expand the support for marketing and public relations for the Hanbok to foster the designer population, to establish mutual brands, to raise brand awareness, and to promote the technological perfection of the individual businesses, to allow them to cope with the current market trends, in order for the technological development and firm settlement of the local Hanbok industrial cluster.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.449-460
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• 2019

Today, the fashion business environment of the 4.0 generation is changing based on fashion technology combined with advanced digital technologies such as AI (Artificial Intelligence), big data and IoT (Internet of Things). "Digital Transformation" means a fundamental change and innovation in a digital paradigm including corporate strategy, organization, communication, and business model, based on the utilization of digital technology. Thus, this study examines digital transformation strategies through the fashion brand Burberry. The study contents are as follows. First, it examines the theoretical concept of digital transformation and its utilization status. Second, it analyzes the characteristics of Burberry's digital transformation based on its strategies. For the research methodology, a literature review was performed on books and papers, aligning with case studies through websites, social media, and news articles. The result showed that first, Burberry has reset their main target to Millennials who actively use mobile and social media, and continues to communicate with them by utilizing digital strategy in the entire management. Second, Burberry is quickly delivering consistent brand identity to consumers by internally creating and providing social media-friendly content. Third, they have started real-time product sales and services by using IT to enhance access to brands and to lead consumers towards more active participation. In this study, Burberry's case shows that digital transformation can contribute to increased brand value and sales, keeping up with the changes in the digital paradigm. Therefore, the study suggests that digital transformation will serve as an important business strategy for fashion brands in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.121-136
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• 2019

The fashion market is expanding and competition is intensifying due to the contraction of consumption in response to the economic recession and changes in trends. In this study, design characteristics reflecting the brand identity and trend are analyzed as important factors for success. In this study, we will look at the design characteristics of knitwear among SPA brand products and help to plan knit designs. First, six brands were selected based on the sales and the number of stores in domestic and foreign SPA brands. The selected brands include UNIQLO, ZARA, H&M, SPAO, TOPTEN, and 8Seconds. We have selected weft knitting knitwear products(1,736 pieces), which are currently sold in domestic and foreign SPA brands, as silhouette items, knitwear design items, gauges, colors, patterns, images, and items as analysis items to analyze the causes of the differences in the design characteristics of domestic and foreign knitwear. The SPA brand has a wide range of tattoo floors, emphasizing practical aspects, a silhouette that fits the body, and a comfortable daily style. Domestic and foreign SPA brands did not show much difference, but Korean brands had a lower diversity of organization and used color for stable sales, showing a lower concern in trend and strong point color applications. If foreign brands pursue femininity based on a sexy image, Korean brands displayed a difference, emphasizing cute images. As for other design factors, it was found that brand identity was reflected more than domestically. As the cycle of trends becomes shorter, fast fashion is expected to continue in the future, and it is hoped that this research will be used as useful data for design projects of domestic companies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.175-186
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• 2018

These days, due to increased income levels, lower birthrate, and increased marriage age, interest and investment in children has increased, and infant & children's clothes has become more upgraded, differentiated, and diversified. In accordance with the change of the infant & children's clothes market, Examine the research trends of the papers in the journals. Used 'KISS', 'DBpia', 'Korea Institute of Science and Technology Information', in the search system, and 137 papers were searched for by using key word, 'infant's clothes' and 'children's clothes'. The year of publication is limited to 2001 to 2017, and they are classified into 5-year units and again the papers were classified by year, by journal, by field of clothing research (Technical Design & Production, Fashion Marketing, Textile System, Fashion Design), and frequency and percentage were used as data analysis. The number of articles related to infant & children's clothes increased such as 39 in 2001~2005, 43 in 2006~2010, and 55 in 2011~2017. The distribution of articles by journals has been published mainly in the journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, but as the journals were diversified, they were distributed evenly in other journals related to the apparel. In the presentations according to the research field by year, from 2001 to 2005, the ratio of apparel design and production was high, but since 2006, many papers related to fashion marketing and fashion design have been published. The research contents of the field of clothing research are as follows: 41 articles in design production field, focusing on dimensional system and pattern design, 40 articles in fashion design field, focusing on design development and design preferences, 46 articles in fashion marketing field, focusing on consumer behavior and marketing management. And 10 articles in apparel material system field, focusing on research on cloth science materials, but they are less well studied than others, but these studies should be actively pursued in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.11-21
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• 2021

Virtual reality is currently mainly used in games, but is starting to be applied as a variety of media fields, such as broadcasting and film. Virtual reality provides more fun than reality, and can provide new experiences in areas that cannot be experienced in reality due to the constraints of time, space, and environment. In particular, as the social non-contact arena has increased due to COVID-19, it is being applied to education, health, and medical industries. The contents are further expanding into design and military fields. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to observe the change in distribution of load and pressure felt by the body in the flying state while wearing a short pants harness, which are mainly used in the game and entertainment industry. In the experiment, the average pressure in the flying state was measured by attaching a pressure sensor to the back and front of a human mannequin. As a result, it was confirmed that the load concentrated on the waist in the flying state was 44 N, with a pressure of 1353 kPa. The pressure distribution was concentrated in front of the center of gravity, and was measured was at 98% by the pressure sensors, with an average pressure value of approximately 15 kPa, and a pressure value of approximately 12 kPa at the back, which was measured at 67% by the pressure sensor. The results of the load and pressure distribution measurement are presented as fundamental data to improve the wearability and comfort of harnesses in the future, and are compared to actual measured pressure values by analyzing the clothing pressure in flight through virtual wear of harnesses through the CLO 3D program.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.127-144
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• 2022

This paper aims to analyze the different external images of women expressed in ancient artwork through the socio-cultural background and the aesthetic view during the Tang and Song dynasties of China. The research method contains a literature review involving the collection of historical literature, thesis, and artwork data. The image of women according to the aesthetic view of the two periods is summarized as follows. In terms of face shape, the Tang pursued a round face while the Song pursued a more slender shape. As for hair ornamentation, the Tang wore various shapes of hair buns like "Paojiaji", and decorated them with coronets. The Song wore various types of braided hair called "Tongxinji", but the coronets were smaller and more sophisticated. For makeup, the Tang wore colorful and heavy makeup and the Song makeup was lighter and more elegant. In attire, the Tang followed revealed shape, used splendid colors and thin, transparent material. The Song exhibited a more simple design and was conservative and neat, using luxurious silk fabric with low chroma. In body shape, the Tang pursued the "beauty of obesity" with a voluptuous body shape; the Song pursued the "beauty of gaunt" with a slim body shape. As the result of the analysis according to the aesthetic views of the Tang and Song dynasties, women of Tang were depicted as rich, and women of Song were rather neat. The research on the aesthetic views that changed according to the development of social civilization and the status of women will play an active role in the transmission and development of traditional Chinese culture. At this point, the paper may contribute to the creation of images of women as well as changes in the art of future generations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.88-101
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• 2022

Molybdenum is used in electrical contacts, industrial motors, and transportation materials due to its remarkable ability to resist heat and corrosion. It is also used to flame coat other metals. This study investigated, the thermal characteristics of the molybdenum sputtered material, such as electrical conductivity, and stealth effects on infrared thermal imaging cameras. To this end, molybdenum sputtered samples were prepared by varying the density of the base sample and the type of base materials used. Thereafter, the produced samples were evaluated for their surface state, electrical conductivity, electromagnetic field characteristics, thermal characteristics, stealth effect on infrared thermal imaging cameras, and moisture characteristics. As a result of infrared thermal imaging, the molybdenum layer was directed towards the outside air, and when the sample was a film, it demonstrated a greater stealth effect than the fabric. When the molybdenum layer was directed to the outside air, all of the molybdenum sputtering-treated samples exhibited a lower surface temperature than the "untreated sample." In addition, as a result of confirming electrical properties following the molybdenum sputtering treatment, it was determined that the film exhibited better electrical conductivity than the fabric. All samples that were subjected to molybdenum sputtering exhibited significantly reduced electromagnetic and IR transmission. As a result, the stealth effect on infrared thermal imaging cameras is considered to be a better way of interpreting heat transfer than infrared transmission. These results are expected to have future applications in high-performance smartwear, military uniforms, and medical wear.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.732-751
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• 2022

In this study, we aimed to apply 3D digital printing to basic clothing production and to propose futuristic fashion design and production methods that correspond to contemporary trends. Literature on future trends, dynamism, mechanical aesthetics, and experimentalism were used to define the characteristics of "futurism." Based on theoretical considerations about futurism, we created fashion designs using 3D digital printing methods. These designs were produced using the aesthetic characteristics of futurism; the 3D digital clothing program; and application of digital printing technologies to futuristic silhouettes, colors, and materials. The results were as follows: First, with the application of futurism as a fashion motif, we pursued collaboration between artistic work and fashion, and we then explored the possibility of creative expression. Second, harmony between achromatic and chromatic colors revealed even better dynamism and activeness, and the potential to express dynamism was observed. Third, with the development of fashion design processes based on 3D digital printing methodologies, it was found to be possible to eliminate the limitations of time and space, solve problems related to limited budget or communication, and positively influence the fashion industry by enhancing convenience and diversity. Fourth, with the development of fashion design that utilizes digital printing, it was found that problems related to time, space, or limited budget were able to be solved, as compared to the use of traditional printing and image reproduction.