• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
• /
• v.49 no.2
• /
• pp.165-171
• /
• 2018

Artemisiae Capillaris Herba is a dried aerial part of Asteraceae capillaris Thunb.(Compositae), which has been used in Korean traditional medicine for the treatment of various diseases. It has a variety of pharmacological activities and has been evaluated for potential as an active ingredient in cosmeceutical products. In the cosmetics industry, animal experiments is besides the major concern of ethics, there are few more disadvantages of animal experimentation like demand of skilled manpower, time consuming protocols and high cost. Therefore, various alternatives to animal experiments have been proposed. The purpose of this study was to investigate the skin permeation characteristics of chlorogenic acid and dimethyleculetin, which are constituent of Artemisiae Capillaris Herba by using Franz diffusion cell. As a result, skin permeability was characterized by flux(penetration rates) and $K_p$(permeability coefficient) value, chlorogenic acid had lower flux and $K_p$ than dimethylesculetin. According to the definitions of Marzulli, chlorogenic acid and dimethylesculetin would be classified as 'Moderate' and 'Very fast' respectively. In conclusion, skin permeation characteristics of chlorogenic acid and dimethylesculetin were confirmed through Franz diffusion cell, and suggests the direction of alternative method for skin permeation of natural compounds.

• Journal of Environmental Health Sciences
• /
• v.42 no.1
• /
• pp.61-70
• /
• 2016

Objectives: The purpose of this study is to determine the exposure risk to tattoo components by analyzing skin absorption using the in vitro method. Tattoos are commonly used for cosmetic purposes, and the skin of not only the operator but of the people who are undergoing the cosmetic procedure is continuously exposed to hazardous chemicals. Methods: Skin permeation risk determination was conducted by the in vitro Franz diffusion cell method according to the ingredient types of tattoo dyes, such as volatile organic compounds (VOCs), non-volatile organic compounds and heavy metals, using hairless mouse full skin and human cadaver epidermis. Results: The major components with good skin penetration for each type of tattoo dye ingredient were clarified. Among the tatto dye ingredients, 1,2-Dichlorobenzene, Zn, Al, Pb and Ti showed good skin penetration. Most of the skin transmission rates were higher in hairless mouse full skin than in human cadaver epidermis. Conclusion: A possible exposure risk to hazardous substances in tattoo dyes was confirmed from this study. These results are expected to provide a positive contribution to the establishment of management regulations for tattoo dyes.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
• /
• v.24 no.3
• /
• pp.260-265
• /
• 2013

In this study, nano-emulsions containing 0.01, 0.03, 0.05, and 0.10% ethyl acetate fraction of Hippophae rhamnoides (H. rhamnoides) leaf extracts were prepared. The particle size, particle size distribution and skin permeability of the nano-emulsions were evaluated for five weeks. Nano-emulsion was prepared by the sequential use of homogenizer and microfluidizer. Nano-emulsion containing the ethyl acetate fraction exhibited a monodispersed form. Nano-emulsion containing 0.03% ethyl acetate fraction was the most stable for five weeks. The in vitro skin permeation study of nano-emulsion containing 0.03% ethyl acetate fraction was carried out using Franz diffusion cell. The nano-emulsion showed a better skin permeability than that of O/W emulsion. These results indicate that the nano-emulsion containing the ethyl acetate fraction of H. rhamnoides leaf extract showed a remarkable stability and skin permeability than that of O/W emulsion.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.40 no.1
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2014

At present, there are few research papers on skin penetration of cosmeceutical ingredients. What is worse is that in vivo studies are hard to find. In this study, we measured skin epidermal penetration of cosmeceutical ingredients using in vivo Raman spectroscopy and compared with the results obtained from experiments using in vitro franz cell. Results showed that ascorbyl-2-glucoside, retinol, retinyl palmitate, and kojic acid were good for penetration ratio in measurement in vitro and retinol, vitamin C, and arbutin were good in measurement in vivo. Among them, retinol was best in skin penetration in vivo experiment using Raman spectroscopy and ascorbyl-2-glucoside was best in skin penetration in vitro experiment using Franz cell system. It is estimated that the differences were originated from the experimental procedures of two different methods; in vivo Raman experiment can be sensitive to the effect of epidermis and dermis as characteristics of matter by estimating the stratum corneum and in vitro measurement is evaluation of material to penetrate skin of hairless mouse. However, most penetration barrier is the stratum corneum, thus it is important to examine movement of material in the stratum corneum. We expect that these results provided useful information for many cosmetic related research.

• Journal of Environmental Health Sciences
• /
• v.43 no.1
• /
• pp.77-86
• /
• 2017

Objectives: The purpose of this study was to compare permeation characteristics in three skin types using oil-soluble benzoic acid and water-soluble caffeine after method condition optimization based on OECD guideline 428. Methods: A Franz diffusion cell, a reliable alternative method for skin permeation, was used. One-milliliter samples were taken and immediately replaced with fresh solution in the receptor chamber at regular time intervals (1, 2, 4, 7, 10 and 24 hr). The amount of test substances was measured by LC-MS/MS. Results: The permeation rate increased dose-dependently, and the permeation orders were $KeraSkin^{TM}$ > hairless mouse full skin > human cadaver epidermis for skin types, and benzoic acid solution > caffeine solution > benzoic acid cream > caffeine cream for type of test materials. Conclusion: According to the definitions of Marzulli, benzoic acid and caffeine would be classified as 'fast' and 'moderate' compared with the permeation of other chemical species. The setting conditions and permeation characteristics performed in this study are expected to contribute to future permeation studies.

• Preventive Nutrition and Food Science
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.85-89
• /
• 2016

Omega-3 rich fish oils are extremely labile, thus requiring control of oxidation and off flavor development. A recently proposed emulsification method, layer-by-layer (LbL) deposition, was found to be a plausible method to enhance the characteristics of bioactive ingredients, especially lipids. The present work was designed to test the possibility of enhancing the uptake and utilization of omega-3 fatty acids present in fish oil. The bioavailability of nano-emulsified fish oil was monitored in terms of intestinal absorption as well as skin permeability by using the everted intestinal sac model and Franz cell model. The skin permeability and intestinal absorption characteristics was significantly improved by LbL emulsification with lecithin/chitosan/low methoxypectin. Multilayer encapsulation along with nano-emulsification can be a useful method to deliver biologically active lipids and related components, such as fish oil. The protective effect of this tool from lipid oxidation still needs to be verified.

• Archives of Pharmacal Research
• /
• v.26 no.10
• /
• pp.880-885
• /
• 2003

Research in this paper focuses on the kinetic evaluation of swelling of the liquid crystalline phases of glyceryl monooleate (GMO). Swelling of the lamellar and cubic liquid crystalline phases of GMO was studied using two in vitro methods, a total immersion method and a Franz cell method. The swelling of the lamellar phase and GMO having 0 %w/w initial water content was temperature dependent. The swelling ratio was greater at $20^{\circ}^C than 37^{\circ}^C$ . The water uptake increased dramatically with decreasing initial water content of the liquid crystalline phases. The swelling rates obtained using the Franz cell method with a moist nylon membrane to mimic buccal drug delivery situation were slower than the total immersion method. The swelling was studied by employing first-order and second-order swelling kinetics. The swelling of the liquid crystalline phases of GMO could be described by second-order swelling kinetics. The initial stage of the swelling (t < 4 h) followed the square root of time relationship, indicating that this model is also suitable for describing the water uptake by the liquid crystalline matrices. These results obtained from the current study demonstrate that the swelling strongly depends on temperature, the initial water content of the liquid crystalline phases and the methodology employed for measuring the swelling of GMO.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.31 no.11
• /
• pp.1004-1009
• /
• 2021

Angelica gigas Nakai (AGN) has been used in Korean herbal medicine for various pharmacological activities, such as to create antioxidant and skin whitening effects. Decursin and decursinol angelate of AGN extracts can be used as potential active drugs and cosmetic ingredients. This study investigated the possibility of topical delivery of AGN extracts using a manufactured emulsion system. Lotion was formulated by using Tefose^® and paraffin for the oil phase, Kolliphor RH 40 for the surfactant and solubilizing agent-which showed high solubility in water (0.82 mg/ml)-and a water phase with a carbomer. In vitro skin permeation of decursin and decursinol angelate was determined using a Strat-M^® membrane in Franz diffusion cells. Lotion samples as the experimental group (248.08±19.72 ug/cm²) significantly increased the permeation of decursin and decursinol angelate for up to 24 hr compared to the control group (119.18±19.23 ug/cm²). The permeability was also characterized by the flux (penetration rates) and Kp (permeability coefficient) values. The experimental group (17.20±1.23 ug/h/cm² and 5.73±1.39 cm/h^*10^-3) had higher flux and Kp than the control group (8.22±1.24 ug/h/cm² and 2.74±0.51 cm/h^*10^-3). Lotion with decursin and decursinol angelate of AGN extracts could be used for the topical application of drug and cosmetic products.

• Polymer(Korea)
• /
• v.38 no.6
• /
• pp.694-701
• /
• 2014

In this study, Polygomun aviculare L. (P. aviculare L.) extract loaded elastic liposomes (ELPs) were investigated to enhance the transdermal delivery of P. aviculare L. extract composed of various flavonoids. ELPs were composed of egg phospholipids (PC) and edge activator ($Tego^{(R)}$ care 450) and the physical properties and in vitro permeation studies of ELPs were performed. Particle size ranged from 148.1 to 262.2 nm and deformability index was recorded as 11.5~25.4. Loading efficiency was from 53.1 to 66.3%. In vitro skin permeation studies using Franz diffusion cell demonstrated that ELP-4 having ratio of 85:15 for PC to $Tego^{(R)}$ care 450 exhibited the higher skin permeability than ELP-1, the general liposome without $Tego^{(R)}$ care 450. It was visually seen by fluorescence image restoration microscopy. The findings suggest that ELP-4 selected as the optimal formulation could be used as useful formulation for transdermal delivery of the extract.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.49 no.1
• /
• pp.17-27
• /
• 2023

A study was performed to increase skin permeation of tocopheryl acetate, an oil-soluble component among tocopheryl acetate, salicylic acid, and niacinamide, which are the active ingredients of the anti-hair loss toner. As a method of transparently solubilizing tocopheryl acetate while containing salicyl acid and niacinamide, we used a swollen micelle structure that increased the size of the micelle formed by the aggregation of surfactants. The prepared swollen micelle solution contains three kinds of active ingredients, and poloxamer 407 and octyldodeceth-16 were used as surfactants to increase transparent properties and stability. In addition, isostearic acid was used as a co-surfactant to increase the size of micelles. To evaluate the physical properties of the prepared swollen micelles, turbidity at room temperature (25 ℃) was measured. The Franz diffusion cell method was used to evaluate the skin permeation rate of tocopheryl acetate among the hair-loss prevention components contained in swollen micelles. After 24 h, tocopheryl acetate showed a 6-fold improvement in skin permeation compared to the control group. Therefore, it can be seen that the swollen micelles developed in this study can be applied to hair-loss prevention products or solubilized formulations of various functional cosmetics.