Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.5
no.2
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pp.75-91
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2003
This study analyzed descriptions about dots, lines, and sides which are used as a basic elements to express geometric figures as followings: -In the aspect of formative art, dots form images and feelings through their concurrence when make a slight move to coordinates. The concurrence can bring out either positive or negative images; -Lines have unlimited variation as a core measure in body art. They can make optimal effects with different lines such as straight and curved lines of human body; -Sides express not only effects of texture and perspective but also of space and solid by color effects. Expressive characteristics and geometric shapes can be classified by tattoo, henna and body painting: First, colorful tattoos are favored by Caucasian and original tattoos are mostly used by yellow and colored races in the way of scarification to get decorative effects. Recently, a rapid cycle of fashion change in tattoo figures has developed a tentative method of tattooing and a variety of decoration methods. It has made it a lot easier to change a pattern of a tattoo. Tattoos are now popular among people because they no longer have to suffer from pains when they get their body tattooed for a long time. Since tattoos boast their unique beauty which consists of most dynamic and attractive images among the types of body art. It will be one of the most favored make-up methods in the nearest future. Second, geometric designs used in henna include crosses, dots, straight lines, triangles, date palms, and so on. Henna has been particularly loved as an instant decoration by the public since it gradually disappears as time goes on. Third, body painting enables to draw a three-dimensional effect because of its close relation with body movements in a limited space. Each individual will have a different feeling appealed in their body painting. Body painting has been applied to many different areas, especially to theatrical art using lights, music and performance altogether producing impromptu and experimental works. Unlike other arts such as painting, sculpture, visual and industrial arts, body painting has mobility. Since it is painted on a three-dimensional human body, it can bear originality expressing realistic objects or animals and strengthen creative functions using body lines. Moreover, geometric designs can be diversified by the sexes. As a result of analysis, geometric designs expressed in body art seemed to transcend expressions of beauty and turned out to be another way of decoration. Body art has also been used as a way to express visual integration and consolidation dynamically not by human instinct but by social changes. The needs for body art will grow as the future comes nearer and be recognized as a new and fresh value. Formative elements of geometric figures deliver visual impressions combined with human body and finally create more various types of body art in harmony of body lines.
The purpose of this study is to recognize the aesthetic characteristics of the Maximalism depicted in contemporary costumes of new millennium. This is done by analyzing and examining the social and cultural background of fashion in the few years of 21st century. The fashion trend of the beginning of 21st century was coexisted conflicting factors with ultramodern factor and past recurrent factor. For that reason, new millennium is to be existence background of Maximalism style in contemporary costumes. The social and cultural background of Maximalism was regarded as characteristics of the Glocalism, fusion style, bobos. Glocalism means a compound word of Globalism and Localism, and used various fields of policy, economics, society etc. Consequently, the aesthetic formativeness of Maximalism of the contemporary costumes was investigated as the 'Romantic Hippie Look' and 'Romantic Sports Look' 1) Romantic Hippie Look New millennium fashion trend is affected by hippie style of 1970's. That is major reason that the antiwar consciousness of 9.11 terror, USA-Afganistan war and the economic depression is similar to 1970's situation. Accordingly, fashion trend is developed into bright, light, romantic style and fashion designers chose materials with flowers, butterflies, dragonflies pattern. Because the clothing of these material reflects well modern people's feeling to escape misgivings, unrest of political terror, war etc. The characteristics of hippie style expressed freedom as the greatest merit was raised new trend, so called 'Romantic Hippie Look' on new millennium. That is, the romantic hippie look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multiculturalism and nationalism. 2) Romantic Sports Look : The beginning of new millennium, many fashion designers intend to graft the details of sports wear on order made or ready made clothing and try to show luxury and cheerful fashion design with combination of sporty and romantic factors. Accordingly, theses fashion trends expressed 'Romantic Sports Look' with a harmony or disharmony of unusual factors. The fashion trend of new millennium centering around special cities like New York, Paris, Milan moved to various regional culture. Accordingly, the features of fashion depicted not unique theme but multiplicity of the clothing of dissimilar style or material by the mixture of 2 or 3 factors like the fusion of femininity and masculinity and the combination of past and present of details. That is, the romantic sports look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multi-functional and crossover.
The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.
Electronic commerce in digital environment is greatly different from the commerce in physical environment in the past (reality environment) in terms of marketing, distribution structure and, above an, comsumers'purchase pattern. The Old purchase pattern is that a consumer buys a product after s/he touches, tests, and feels it physically, while the purchase pattern in electronic commerce enables the comsumer to make a decision about whether to buy it or not through the information gleaned from the computer monitor screen. A number of products which appears in the market now are designed to use the reality environment setup without consideration of the digital environment, of which the intention is to appeal to consumers with a series of design process. However, taking under consideration the present situation in which lots of electronic commerce are made in the cyber space or digital environment, we are required to forward the product design which can gains the positive attraction for consumers in this environment. Factor analysis is made in order to understand how the subjects perceive the image of the design of the product both in reality situation and in digital environment. The result shows the first factor has different images in those environments. In the background of this conclusion rests the fact that the difference of the transfer of formative factors to consumers is made in the images which show themselves in those different environments.
In this thesis, I examined the mental, philosophical aspects and the aesthetic sense of our ancestors through the study of the patterns pictured in the mural paintings of Koguryo dynasty's old tomb. To view the mode of construction in Koguryo dynasty from present angle, the detailed analysis of the patterns was done. As a result, I could fully understand the formative consciousness of our nation. 1. I defined the process of transition of the mural paintings by putting some 70 mural aintings into the form of a diagram. 2. The cultural aspects of the mural paintings in Koguryo dynasty were characterized by the fusion of our primitive religion and Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism which were introduced from China. From this fact, I could inferred that Koguryo people were giving off the strong desire for the faith by means of the mural paintings. Further more I found that configuration of the patterns such as religious elements. 3. The types of the patterns were classified into four types, this is, geometric type, natural type, cultural type and abstract type, Among these types, geometric type and natural type were nonsymbolic in nature but became cultured and abstracted in course of time. cultural pattern and abstract pattern got the symbolic meaning in the long run. Of all the constitution of the patterns represented in the mural paintings such as repeat constitution, left and right symmetric constitution, top and bottom symmetric constitution and rotary symmetric constitution, the left and right symmetric constitution was mainly used and some monotony of left and right symmetric constitution. The analysis of motif which was got from the mode of the patterns showed that the mixing of symbolic and nonsymbolic patterns made it possible to regard the separate symbol as compound in nonsymbolic patterns and the combination between nonsymbolic patterns ensured the understanding of other patterns in certain cases. Our ancestors made great efforts to transmit certain meaning symbolically. Also to heighten the symbolism, they drew the meangless patterns firstly and then appended meaning to those patterns secondly. Furthermore, they offered the background to the patterns comblined with symbolism, so that meaning transmission was clarified at last. As mentioned above, the patterns shown in the mural paintings of Koguryo dynasty's old tomb were characterized by natural beauty. And natural beauty was found out clearly in the form and constitution of the patterns. Therefore I concluded that our nation's religious, philosophical tradition was acted on the patterns strongly.
Mario Botta is one of the modern architects who established his own architectural world on the basis of the architectural spirit of Modernism. His works have been a good theme not only for those who study architecture but also for those who study the relationship between architecture and the surrounding environment and there have been many published papers and reports on his works. However, most of them stressed on the importance of the external appearance of architecture or on the relationship between architecture and the surrounding environment. There have been relatively few studies that have dealt intensively with interior space. The aim of this study is to find the characteristics of interior space in public buildings that were designed by Botta and to analyze them from the view design principles and design elements. For this purpose, the five most important public buildings were selected and the public space of the building like the central hall, the lobby, and the foyer were analyzed. Through this study, the followings are realized. A) Spatial features: $\circled1$ Refined and graceful interiors where the principle of symmetry was applied, $\circled2$ Centripetal interiors surrounded by thick walls, $\circled3$ Interior design lit by skylights above the central area, B) Formative features: $\circled1$ The shapes of the external and internal spaces are identical, $\circled2$ Simple geometrical shapes were applied in defining the shapes of internal spaces, $\circled3$ Skylights and light wells were combined and were utilized as form elements, $\circled4$ Architectural vocabularies of Corbusier such as stairs, round pillars, and bridges were developed and utilized, $\circled5$ Utilized the geometry that resembled his architecture as a form element to the furniture, C) material pattern features: $\circled1$ Plainly expressed the patterns of bricks that appear in the course of construction, $\circled2$ Made and used horizontal stripe patterns using stones of different colors.
The purpose of this study was to investigate that to see how their traditional characteristics were reflected and expressed in Hanoi vietnamese contemporary public restaurants. For this, We visited Hanoi twice to have onsite research in August 2012 and 2013. According to the results of surveying Vietnamese public restaurants, all of the 12 cases had humane characteristics reflecting Vietnam traditional culture, showing Vietnamese unique traditional characteristics including intangible elements such as natural environment, life culture elements such as food culture, and formative aesthetic elements using indigenous ornaments. Different from luxury restaurants that had trade names on the theme of historical stories related to people or places and expressed various concepts formatively using photographs of Vietnamese politics and history and ornamental elements such as tableware, however, the public restaurants were simple in theme or concept. It is probably because most of the surveyed cases were situated in the old quarter to the north of the Hoan Kiem Lake and in the area to the west of the lake and their target customers were local people, so they reflected the Vietnamese traditional residence style and common people's life rather than designing the restaurants intentionally with specific concepts. As to the spatial expression characteristics of the surveyed cases, casual restaurants in Hanoi expressed only basic structure using basic construction materials and techniques with outdoor spaces in the form of Vietnam traditional tube house, and therefore, the overall atmosphere was contemporary. In indoor spaces as well, the general level was low, using uncharacteristic common design and color and cheap finishing materials and furniture. 83% of all cases showed the pattern of VM-VM-VT, being mainly contemporary by partially adopting Vietnamese unique ornamental elements for their outdoor and indoor spaces and using traditional elements supplementarily.
Typha angustifolia has ecological characteristics of clonal growth similar to Phragmites australis. The plant spreads byclonal growth and seed dispersal. In this study, for the three stands which have different settlement age at the Baksilji wetland in Korea, genetic diversity was estimated by random amplification of polymorphic DNA analysis to evaluate the change in genetic diversity of T. angustifolia during stand development in the same population. Stand (ST) 1 was the oldest and ST 4 was the youngest. ST 5 was in a small ditch out of the Baksilji. Although the ST 1, ST 2, and ST 3 did not differ significantly in vegetational or physical environment, the genetic diversity estimated according to Nei's gene diversity (h) and the Shannon index (i) increased in the order of ST 1 < ST 2 < ST 3 contrary to formative age. The genetic diversity of ST 4 was much higher than that of the other three stands. ST 4 has similar abiotic environmental conditions with slight T. angustifolia dominance, and seems to be in the early establishment stage. ST 5 differed from the other stands in vegetational and soil environments, which can result in stressful cattail conditions. Even though the ST 5 stand was not younger than the ST 4 stand, ST 5 showed the highest genetic diversity. Our results indicate that after early settlement of the T. angustifolia population, genetic diversity within the species decreased over time and that the decreasing pattern of genetic diversity within T. angustifolia stands is not likely to occur under stressful conditions.
The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.
Recently, the art of the Latin America Culture is being actively introduced into our country. Many concepts in the fashion field contain Latin American culture and their influence is growing. This present study, based on a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture, is an attempt to expand the expression of fashion design and explore the use of works of art in fashion. The case study is on Frida Kahlo (1907~1954), who was a Mexican woman painter who gives us some inspiration in contemporary fashion design. The scope of this case study investigates the Haute couture and the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2009 which were greatly influenced by Frida Kahlo and analyzes through the formative elements of dress, color, form, pattern and material. Frida Kahlo was a painter whose composition of surrealism held the world of life and death, pain and pleasure, love and parting, thought and freedom, and tradition and modern, etc. As a design inspiration, her influence reaches into accessories, and hairstyles, as well as the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter. This current study for the correct understanding of the new culture and the introduction of art into the fashion design might be helpful in making fashion a work of art and in extending the expression of the fashion design concept which is based on commercial art.
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