• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.68-79
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• 2004

This study aims to understand the history of the Victorian age that attached importance to various designs and aesthetic aspects by art and craft movement, and to present that the Victorian pattern is a factor with unlimited possibility in application and development of the modern textile product designs. Therefore, through documents research home and abroad, I considered the periodical background of the Victorian style, a change course of textile, and the theoretical backing of the Victorian pattern, and I studied and analyzed the cases of being applied in the modern textile product designs by classifying apparel, home interior, and fashion accessories. First of all, in apparel, the Victorian pattern transformed into geometrical form had much relative importance, and secondly, in the home interior, the Victorian pattern was expressed realistically or it was represented more boldly and complexly with new materials or techniques introduced. Thirdly, in fashion accessories, decorative nature was shown in intense design with the real description of the Victorian flower pattern and brilliant colors. With these results, it was found out that when the Victorian pattern was applied in the modern textile product designs, it was the factor that could be expected to make a high value added suitable with the modern sense, and it was the pattern with developmental potential with its unlimited use range. Therefore, based on this study, it is considered that the development of textile product designs utilizing the Victorian pattern and academic research, reorganizing the Victorian pattern in accordance with the modern design should be continued.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.36-48
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• 2022

This study aims to analyze the patterns made with knitted jacquard and intarsia techniques to provide essential data to help plan different knitwear designs using the techniques and patterns. Based on approximately 3,000 jacquard and intarsia knitwear published in the four significant womenswear collections over the past decade, eight main pattern types were classified, and each characteristic was analyzed. Firstly, it is a logo and symbol type pattern that appears mainly as a means of emphasizing a brand. Secondly, it is a traditional pattern with settled patterns from the past to the present. Third, it is a geometric pattern that appears both typically and atypically in various forms. Fourth, an abstract pattern type does not show a precise form or motif. Fifth, it is a colorful and diverse flower and plant pattern. Sixth, it is a landscape pattern that expresses nature and living space. Seventhly, it is an animal pattern type that expresses the appearance of an animal or the shape of the. Finally, it is a caricature pattern type using characters and various cartoonish motifs. Based on the analysis results of this study, creative and diverse design development of Jacquard and Intarsia knitwear and development of the knitwear market will take place.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2004

This study was analyzed three basic patterns of the Islamic arts. These are natural flora, geometrical and calligraphy pattern. Islamic belief in Aniconism, doctrine of unity and worship of arabic language demanded delicate, decorative, and abstract patterns instead of patterns of real image. Natural flora pattern was classified into arabesque and various flower patterns. Muhammad commands that "The artist who fashions a representation of living things is competitor of God and therefore destined to eternal damnation, so if you want to represent living things, you should only depict flowers and trees". Then the natural flora patterns developed into main Islamic pattern. Geometric pattern was composed of geometrical elements like, circle, trigon, square, rectangle, pentagon, hexagon, octagon or other polygons, stars or motifs with straight or curved lines. Circle symbolized ′celestial′ sphere and crystal of the lower octagon symbolized ′earthly existence′. Therefore if the circle join with the octagons, it means fusion of celestial and earthly existence. Another important influence on the Islamic art was the calligraphy pattern, the writing of Arabic language. The major language of calligraphy pattern was Arabic script and often Persian script. Calligraphy pattern was composed of Kufic and Cursive script. The cursive script was developed various forms. The Islamic tenet prohibit depiction of sacred images, the sacred Arabic calligraphy such as ′Alla′ or ′Mohammad′ was substituted of them. And the content of calligraphy pattern was used with Quranic phrases. The aesthetics of Islamic patterns analyzed aesthetic of ′rhythmic lines′, aesthetic of ′unity in multiplicity′, aesthetic of tessellation and aesthetic of harmony. On the textiles of the Islamic culture, the arabesque, floral, geometric and calligraphy patterns were frequently used.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.93-110
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• 2011

This study investigates the analysis on the acceptance of Foreign Fashion trends in Korean Fashion Collection by collections, years, season, and designers. The purpose of this study is Korean collection's degree to adopt and receive foreign collections, by comparative analysis of design features between Seoul and foreign collections. For such purpose, from 2006 S/S to 2011 F/W, 5185 pictures were collected from designer's photos of Seoul, Paris, Milan, NY, and London collections. The content analysis and statistical analysis using SPSS will be conducted for data analysis. The results of the research are as follows. First, regarding the design features, square-form silhouette, achromatic colors, and none pattern were presented as well. Second, there were significant differences in the design characteristics of each year. Particularly, in 2008, X-form silhouette, Yellow and Green color, and flower pattern were emphasized. Third, the design features by season were significant differences. In S/S season, square-form and X-form silhouette, achromatic colors of white and gray color, none pattern were evident while in F/W season, square-form Silhouette, achromatic colors of black and gray, and none pattern were emphasized. Fourth, the design features by designer are as follows. In terms of form, Seoul collection was influenced by Paris collection. In terms of colors, it was influenced by NY and London collections.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.21-35
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the preference of image for modern application of Korean traditional patterns. A survey was conducted using the randomly selected 292 undergraduate women students of Taegu city. The degree of interest and preference in Korean traditional style or something like that had measured by 5 scale method. And then they had two groups which are interest/non-interest group, and preference/non-preference group in Korean traditional style. Also, preference of Korean traditional patterns was measured by 5 scale method. The image of Korean traditional patterns consisted of semantic differential scales. Analysis was by frequency, percentage, and mean. For difference of groups analysis was by t-test. The results were as follows:1. For the survey, 53.8% showed the interest and 40.4% did the preference for the traditional patterns. There was the positive correlation(0.782) between the degree of the interest and preference. 2. Among twenty traditional patterns, the patterns of plants and nature were very preferred, but the patterns of geometrical things was not preferred. 3. For the nature pattern, the image seemed to be elegant and feminine(womanly). For the plant pattern, the image seemed to be feminine, neat, weak, light and mild. For the animal pattern, the image seemed to be heavy, gorgeous, deluxe, virile(manly), strong and active. Last, for the geometrical pattern, the image seemed to be elegant, deluxe, rigid and strong. 4. Between the interest／non­interest groups, there was the significant difference in pattern of cloud, mountain, lotus flower, plum blossoms, orchid, dragon, chinese phoenix and bogy. Especially, for the orchid pattern, the preference difference between these groups was large. 5. For the plant pattern, the image difference between these groups was very large as the elegant-rustic image. Especially, the interest group evaluated as the elegant image. 6. Between the preference／non­preference groups, there was the strongly significant difference in the preference for the orchid pattern. 7. For the geometrical pattern, the image difference between these groups was very large as the mild­cold image. Especially, the preference groups evaluated as the cold image.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.95-107
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• 2022

In reality, the distinction between the Korean traditional culture and the cultures of other countries is at a delicate boundary. Additionally in the wake of the recent socio-cultural confrontation between Korea and China, it has become necessary to establish the foundation and area of Korean traditional culture and to actively utilize the importance of improving awareness of Korean traditional culture. To reorganize the reckless use of the gold foil pattern shown in the rental hanbok, data on the museum's collection of gold leaf patterns were collected and analyzed. Based on the gold foil, Gilsang characters such as Phoenix pattern, Crane pattern, Bat pattern, Flower pattern, Fruit pattern and recovery advice were extracted through references. The traditional gold foil pattern was reconstructed and relocated to design the gold leaf patch. Based on the collection and analysis of the museum's relics, the Wonsam & Daedae, Dangeui, Sranchima, Sagyusam, Jeonbok, Bokgun, and Daenggi were produced. Therefore, we present the possibility of producing gold foil and modern methods for producing gold foil using laser cutting techniques that can express refinement and complexity well, and gold foil thermal transfer paper with retouchable effects. Additionally, we would like to reflect upon the practicality and the convenience to modern people by considering the complexity and hassle of the traditional gold foil production process, and the disadvantages of processes that require relatively longer time. It intends to help revitalize the market of Korean traditional clothing and fashion products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.318-335
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• 2010

This study is to enhance the competitiveness of the domestic cosmetic industry and provide basic materials needed for a design idea by analyzing perfume bottles designed by Rene Lalique. The methods of this study are documentary research and demonstrative research. The documentary research considered the theoretical background with a focus on related domestic and international literature, previous research, and Internet materials. The demonstrative research extracted photo materials of the bottle designs of Lalique from domestic and international web sites along with literature that classified them into shapes, colors, materials, and patterns that analyzed the general characteristics and chronologic changes. The results of this study are as follows. The curve-oriented shape was common and multi-colors were used more frequently than a single color in the 1910's. Colorless-transparent glass and a flower patterns were used frequently for materials and patterns, respectively. Lalique reflects this style in his bottle designs because the Art Nouveau effect in the 1910's. In the 1920's, curved and straight shapes had a similar percentage. The use of multi-colors and one type of glass bottle increased versus the 1910's. Similar to the 1910's, a flower pattern was used most frequently. This suggests that Lalique was influenced by the established Art Nouveau and was also interested in the Art Deco style, In the 1930's, an organic curved shape was common. Unlike the 1910's and 1920's, a single color was more common than multi-colors. The one type of glass bottle and a geometric pattern were common for materials and patterns, respectively. The Art Deco style was reflected in the bottle design of Lalique in the 1930's.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.281-296
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• 2022

This study is designed to compensate for the lack of children's clothing relics from the early 18th century and to reproduce young upper-class girls' costume as hanbokcontent. The shapes and materials of costumes are based on the record of 『Sukjong-silrok』 in 1701 and the characteristics of adult ladie's costume relics in this period, but reproduced as miniatures of these relics as like Joseon children's clothing of another period. The reproduced costumes are formal wear for 3~4 year-old girls, consisting of yeoui [女衣], long unlined skirts, and lined skirts. Sizes were set at a height ratio of approximately 155:95. Yeoui is sam-hoejang-jeogori using pine pollen-colored damask with a grape-squirrel pattern and a purple damask with flower-treasure pattern. The full length of yeoui is 24.5cm. It has a square-dangko outer collar with square inner collar. The long unlined skirt is a six-width overskirt that is 82cm long, made with lotus patterned sa. The lined skirt is a five-width skirt that is 61.3cm made with flower-treasure patterned red damask and ju. Several long pleats on both sides of these two skirts have been omitted. The result provides meaningful content for children's clothing in the early 18^th century and will be used as costume for an educational trial performance.