• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.208-218
• /
• 2003

The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.4
• /
• pp.80-93
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to recognize about lingerie company's education and pattern-making actual conditions. This study used a questionnaire method. Respondent of survey is designers who work in exist lingerie company. The collected data were statistically processed using SPSS(Statistical Package for Social Science) for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Most of lingerie designers educated lingerie design, pattern and textiles etc. after entering a company and satisfaction 57.3% about education has satisfaction of intergrade. 2. Designer's 87.8% has satisfaction more than intergrade about own pattern-making technology and work career is high, satisfaction about pattern-making technology is high. 3. Correlation was expose that is in lingerie education availability and optimum level arrival period of pattern-making ability before entering a company. In case take lingerie education before entering a comany, thought that optimum level arrival period of pattern-making ability is shorter. 4. Most of lingerie company designers used flat pattern-making method and draping method. 5. There is correlation between work career and using the basic pattern. Work career was expose that make and use only own basic pattern in case is more than 3 years. 6. Contents about deepening pattern-making technology are most by 92.2% to contents of lingerie reeducation.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.85-91
• /
• 2005

To understand the basic relationship between 3D curved surface model and 2D pattern, simplified torso model was generated by commercial CAD program (IDEAS). 3D torso model was then divided into different blocks and unfolded into a flat pattern as in ordinary works of clothing item design. As results, 2D pattern development of different part of 3D torso model was attempted and analyzed mathematically. It was found that different height, radius and tangent slope of 3D blocks resulted in different 2D pattern. The relationships between the shape parameters of 3D torso blocks and those of 2D patterns were analyzed using regression equations. Direct way of drawing a 2D pattern of corresponding 3D torso block was also illustrated for the convenience of pattern making using conventional measurements of upper/ lower radii and height of 3D torso block.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.1
• /
• pp.94-105
• /
• 2009

Jeogori, Korean jacket, can be categorized into two styles. Traditional style Jeogori is based on conventional construction method for ceremonial or festive occasions. Contemporary casual style Jeogori is based on western style flat pattern making for better fitting and functionality. Traditional style Jeogori is quite flat on human body because it is not considered the grade of shoulder line and is drawn by vertical & horizontal line. This characteristic feature causes weakness in functionality and comfort compared to contemporary casual style. Apparently contemporary casual style has better wearing comfort. Yet to most Koreans, contemporary style Jeogori seems to lack of some characteristic style of its own. This study is to find out how to make Jeogori well balanced in terms of functionality, fit, comfort and traditional style. Currently used Jeogori patterns are compared in order to select the best among them. Onto the selected pattern, several alterations were tried focused on shoulder, armhole and sleeve lines to make optimal modifications. After several comparative fitting tests, the final pattern making method was suggested.

• Proceedings of the KSME Conference
• /
• 2008.11b
• /
• pp.2204-2209
• /
• 2008

Flame pattern in burner used in steel industry that constitutes 30% of country energy consumption is generally characterized as long narrow flame pattern so that localized heating causes product quality worse and many burners are needed for proper heating. This paper deals with flat wide flame pattern which has advantage in terms of uniform heating using less number of burners. For that purpose, impinging jet system of fuel and oxidant was used for making flat wide flame. Results show that nozzle angle $75^{\circ}$ of impinging jet is found to be optimum configuration for making effective wide flame which has uniform radiation heat transfer and flame temperature is also most uniform along the flame width for that nozzle angle.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.6
• /
• pp.989-996
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• v.61 no.1
• /
• pp.53-71
• /
• 2023

Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.5
• /
• pp.849-865
• /
• 2009

This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.852-862
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of (the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.5
• /
• pp.15-34
• /
• 2007

This study held a questionnaire for men in their 60s or above to analyze the market research of slacks, understand the characteristics of their lower body types, and provide the basic data for the slacks pattern-making fitting the body types of senior citizens. The findings are as follows. According to the results of a questionnaire, elderly men preferred order-made slacks for better fitness, but they favored ready-made owing to the matter of prices. In particular, the girth of waist was the most considered when purchasing. However, as most customers tended to repair slacks length and the waist part, their unsatisfaction with sizes was rather high. In body measurements, elderly men had higher variable coefficients or more individual differences in the items of thickness and angles than in those of height, length, and girth. Factor analysis revealed 5 front and 6 side factors. According to the results of front-side somatotype analysis, pimento-flat, trapezoid-flat, and bent-flat types require narrower pattern designs in down-upper width than the middle-aged class. In addition, pimento-protruded hip and straight-jar types need to be designed in the same amount as in the middle-aged class. Based on the questionnaire results, down-upper length as 1cm above real dimensions was analyzed to have superior sense of wearing.