• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.315-328
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze on the aesthetic collaboration appeared on the modernism arts and Haute Couture designers in the 20th century as the necessity of analyzing on the pure meaning of collaboration which is a talking point associated with culture of the 21st century. The study was performed by means of documentary method. The results are as follows; First, it was analyzed that the collaboration in the pure meaning of the first half of the 20th century had partial common points which was stated as Art Inspiration in the arts collaboration out of the 21st century collaboration. Secondly, the Haute Couture designers(Paul Poiret, Gabriell Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet and Elsa Schiaparelli) have common point that they involved into the artworking through active exchange with many artists from diversified fields in the 20th century. Especially, the characteristics of the collaboration in the forms, materials and color of their works were appeared visually. When the collaboration in the first half of 20th century was regarded entirely as mental matter of manifestation of pure aesthetics, in can be said that the big difference was mostly the maximization of mutual interest between collaborator and collaboratee in the 21st century collaboration.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.43-59
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• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

• Journal of The Korean Association For Science Education
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.409-427
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• 1999

The aim of this study was to illustrate how STS-related ideas in science education have been developed historically in the context of British education, particularly focused on the period of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century. It has been hardly considered that the basic ideas of the STS education, one of the two paradigms of current science education together with constructivism, can be traced back to the beginning of the school science education itself. far beyond some of the programs which are largely regarded as the first-developed STS programs in Britain, such as Science in Society and SISCON. The movement of Mechanics' Institute during the first half of the 19th century would be the first systematic attempt to bridge the gap between the knowledge of pure science and its practical applications, although the main target was working-class adults rather than school pupils. At the end of the first half of the 19th century, this application-focused approach of science teaching was echoed in the elementary schools by Richard Dawes, one of the early experimenters of school science. The second half of the century was in large the period of the establishment of science as one of the core elements of school curriculum, mainly by emphasizing the aspect of pure science as a means for mental training. During this period, the elements of STS education-related appeared in the subject called 'Object Lesson' in elementary schools which was practically a separate subject from those of science. After the turn of the century, triggered by the experience of World War I, the growing appreciation of the impacts of science upon society and of the necessity of the teaching of science for wider audience gave a great impact towards two new main movements, i.e. for General Science and Citizen Science. The later illustrates a typical example of the STS movement in school science during the first half of the 20th century, particularly driven by the socialistic ideas towards the relation between science and society.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.225-235
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to find out the changes for the first birthday's costume in westernizing Korea society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analysed the related literature for the first half the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 136 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, first birthday's costume for girls dressed up was more different than those for boys. But first birthday's costume items for boys were more than those for girls. Generally first birthday's costume consists of Bokkon Jeonbok Jeogori(Sackdong) and Baji for boy's, Chima and SackdongJeogori for girl's. Because the meanings and look of Hogun, Durumagi, Sagusam, Busun and Baeza are good, those items might be to used for first birthday's costume in the future. To establish better first birthday's culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people involved in related business for traditional costume. Because most of first birthday's costume are usually borrowed for photographs. Also item and design for the first birthday's costume should be studied in order to improve traditional cultural products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.661-680
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.739-747
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• 2008

There have been increasing consumption of luxury fashion and recent marketing researches on luxury syndrome, trading up, etc. in mass fashion today. Historically the consumption of luxury had been concentrated on only upper class in the past. But since 20th century, the mass consumers of modern consumptive society show their interests in luxuries which had been preoccupation of few elite class. Accordingly, it can be thought that the historical review on the changes in the meaning of luxury should be necessary for a better understanding of modern luxury consumption in sociocultural context. The purpose of this study is to grasp the sociocultural meaning of luxury in modern fashion with a holistic viewpoint by examining the changes of luxury consumption in mass fashion. It will be helpful as a conceptual approach of modern luxury consumption. For this, the documentary study has been executed. It focused on since 20th century, which can be the root of mass productive and consumptive society in fashion history. The results are as follows. The luxury in court elite system before 20th century had been concentrated on few elite class exclusively but gradually began to be represented as inferior cheaper version by mass production according to their increasing interests since industrial revolution. The luxuries in elite designer system in the first half of 20th century were represented as illegal design piracy and legal genuine reproduction in spite of problems brought about between originality and copy. The concept of mass as consumer was virtually alienated in both systems. But in fashion system since the second half of 20th century, various types of consumer luxuries has appeared on account of the trading up phenomenon in drastic growth of mass culture.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.19-28
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to research about the construction of Chiseong around the Heunginjimun Gate area in the 18th century. the conclusions derived from the historical evidence of the number, location, size, and form, and construction method of Chiseong was as follows. First, the Chiseong(Square-shaped lookout) of Hanyangdoseong was built in the 29th year of King Yeongjo(1753) and can be found in the national record. Five sites of the Chiseong are currently identified. It is assumed that the Foru was installed on top of some of the Chiseongs. Second, Chiseong was destroyed sequentially in the first half of the 20th century. Third, Chiseong is a rectangular in shape and six are constructed. Fourth, Sixth Chiseong could figure out through Hengryeopungsokdo, the drawing of Jeong Seon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.87-97
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• 1996

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.8 no.4 s.21
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• pp.129-146
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• 1999

The Purpose of this Study is to find the Modern Movements which had done important roles on the development of modern church architecture and sacred art in the first half of 20th century. I had investigated the background and process of the movements, and analyzed the buildings which represented the movements. And I compared the architectural fruits of 'Riturgical Movement' and 'L' art $Sacr\'{e}$ Movement. The results are summarized as follows : First, there are two important movements in Catholic church in the backgrounds of the innovative changes of modern church architecture, Those are 'Riturgical Movement' which pursuits to establish a closer relation between clergy and congregation, and to make the positive participants in the service not mere observers and 'L' art $Sacr\'{e}$ Movement' which pursuits to accept modern secular art into church. Second, both movements had been developed on the bases of the theological studies with tow monasteries - Benedictine Order and Dominican Order - as leader. And the main concept was a kind of revival movement which recovers the Christian tradition. Third, The two movements began from the different themes and in the different regions. But they exerted influences each other, and achieved successful fruits in the Catholic churches of England and Swiss in 1960'. Fourth, 'Riturigical reformation' and 'Acceptance of modern art' had been officialized and generalized through the second Vatican Council(1962-1965).

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.8 no.1 s.18
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• pp.9-28
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• 1999

Broadly speaking, this paper is concentrated on the trimming of the wood demanded for the palace, constructed in the 2nd half of the Choseon Dynasty. To be concrete, this is the study on the craftman and craftmanship corncerned with the trimming of the wood, its system, and terms of payment of his wages, Construction reports, financial reports, job slips, written estimates, bills for payment, and other documents in those days are examined for the study. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. 1) The operation system of whole construction office and its suboffice was very specialized and systematized from the early 19th century. 2) The craftman engaged in trimming of the wood was subdivided by work function. 3) The craftman for its first trimming, i.e. 'keojang' or 'seonjang' had been treated as a speacial labor recruited to the mid-l8th century, after that, was enrolled into the craftman. 4) A unit cost of its first trimming was firstly appropriated into the reconstruction of the Kyongwoon Palace in the early 20th century, and it was very subdivided for a personnel management. 5) Contract works were widely applied to all workers engaged in the reconstruction for an efficiency of the accomplishments.