• Journal of Korea Entertainment Industry Association
• /
• v.13 no.8
• /
• pp.231-242
• /
• 2019

(2014) directed by British-born second generation Iranian-American Ana Lily Amirpour, set in 'the Iranian ghost-town Bad City' attempts to make how the hybridization of multi-cultures makes interesting interpretations culture-politically, presenting a female vampire skateboarding in a striped t-shirt and a black chador. In traditional horror films, mainly male-Dracula was the center of the vampire narrative as other, but since the post-modernism era, vampire films try to shift women from the passive and dependent victim to the subjective and independent main agent. And the main character of the film, 'The Girl' who is a female Muslim vampire takes a step forward to punish men who commit gender violence. Shot in black and white, the film puts images ahead of narrative, while featuring Iranian actors, speaking Farsi. Furthermore, the film crosses over Iranian politics into American-European pop cultures with this eclectic mix of Iran's rock, British electro-pop and Ennio-Morricone-like western stylings. This study focuses on the style featured in which has successfully transformed and transplanted a vampire story into a critical contemporary discourse, mixing multiple genres and citing cultural trends while not following the traditional conventions of vampire films.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.23-34
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.11
• /
• pp.1395-1403
• /
• 2004

Exposure and Concealment have been continued as important way to express fashion and theme as well, especially in women fashion. Exposure can make themselves attractive, and concealment emphasizes this way of being attractive by exposure. Besides the temptable effect of exposure, the ideology which put women next men in society has made a prominence on the fact exposure is significant theme in women fashion. It means that women's image of 'Being seen as Object' (this can be explained by relation passive between active) in society has driven female emphasize in using and focusing on exposure to be attractive. Also the other important thing in women fashion has been considered is concealment. The fact that society has demand women more chaste duty in detail may have meaningful thing in the condition that instigates women take off being attractive to the subject, considering ideology, men. Therefore attractive femininity has to be suggested by virtue and temptation, it is common sense that looking just shallow or too strict are far from criteria of ideal beauty. Namely, the concept for exposure coexists with concealment not only constructively but also naturally in fashion. Technique that can be accentuate for effective exposure differently from method to show unilaterally is needed, and this technique can promote new fashion. And according to the theory of Freud, women means' Absence (lacking penis)', this female's Lack Image induces male castration complex therefore 'Fetishistic Look' which transfers something phallic into specific things or parts of body is adopted, sort of object cathexis. This is revealed as some parts of women body are diverted into object for sexual love, symbolic equivalent. For example, women's parts like legs or breast are remarked as erotogenic zone and as time goes, when no more the zone are felt sexual by exposure, other somewhere felt mysterious (felt something sexual) used to be stressed by exposing. As it were, it can be possible that exposing part on women body (sexual part) moved as time passed because of what previously stated. Especially, the concept of exposure and concealment in women fashion should explain not only from a point of view of style for the beautifulness but also from wearer's immanent intention, further more relationship with ideology. About the present situation becoming bolder in women fashion, it is said that women express confidence as the position of women is elevated higher socially, the more women get freedom. But if we consider this psychoanalysis opinion mentioned ahead, the possibility can not be excluded that the exposure can get emphasizing according as the need of feminine modesty gets decreasing from ideal femininity society, men want. This study about exposure and concealment was made progressed through the theory of Freud who originated psychoanalysis, presented many theories. But nowadays contradictions are being brought up against Freud's theory including conventional philosophy like male chauvinism and adjust studies get suggested. Hereupon, there may be limitation in making no allowance of contradiction and following his theory.