• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.178-197
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• 2008

Due to the inflow of the western culture since the 19th century, female skirts and jackets have been changed considerably in detail though their basic composition was maintained. The analysis on female jackets from the start of the modern period to 1960s has been undertaken with artefacts as well as reports and research dissertations related to them. For period appraisal, analysis was divided into several periods which are from 1890s to 1910s, and every 10 years afterwards. As a result, aspects for the appraisal in each period was found. Aspects for period appraisal in modern jackets can be a change in total length and side length, a change in shape of the sleeves (from straight to round), a change in width, and a difference in closed shape of the collars. Material and color can be another aspect which shows fashionable material or new materials (man-made textile or nylon) of each period, color combination of surface and lining material as well as other parts of the jacket, use of a stiffener made with net or sheer textiles. Research using books and archives is important for the appraisal of the garment artifact. However, most of all, one should have the attitude of examining the artifacts frequently in order to achieve deeper understanding and an eye for accurate appraisal.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.88-97
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• 2013

'Smart Clothes', which incorporate topnotch digital technology into fashion, are a leading fashion runner in this digital era. The purpose of the study is to first help develop a practical design for outdoor backpacks which are equipped with eco-friendly solar cells that facilitate recharging diverse smart devices during outdoor activities; and, secondly, to offer some practical data from the actual appropriation tests that will be used for manufacturing such products. This trial study finds out how to conjoin some practical IT devices with fashion items and mainly focusses on designing outdoor backpacks which are loaded with solar cells for recharging electric devices, and, later, experiments on designed backpacks with some smart phones to see how it works. According to the desired purposes of backpacks, all the features can be adjusted and modified such as the kinds of solar cell panels, materials, sizes, positions of attachment, weights, etc. Smart Clothes are highly functional and fashionable items that satisfy both practical and emotional purposes, and are being actively developed to serve consumers. This study proves that Smart Clothes or Smart Wear will have practical uses for outdoor activities and will possibly lead our smart lifestyles.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.29-45
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• 2014

In the contemporary world, fashionable bodies are socially constructed in light of current idealized images. Media portrayal of such images can have negative health implications. This issue has long been problematic for women. Nowadays, men are subject to more scrutiny regarding their bodies, although male body image has been studied far less than female body image. In this position paper based on a review of the major studies that have been conducted on men and body image, we summarize the findings from these state-of-the-art studies that have been recently published in academic journals. Three themes related to male body image were extracted: socio-cultural ideals, masculinity, and minority men. This study adds to the literature I that it demonstrates that men experience and view their bodies differently from women, though some behaviors, such as disordered eating, are similar. Other behaviors, such as the drive for muscularity, are couched in the context of the social construction of gender and power. Most of the studies were done on white, heterosexual populations of young men, and nearly all used quantitative research methods. Little research has been conducted on ethnic and sexual minorities. We conclude with a discussion of what we need to know, and to that end, we suggest future avenues of research.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.11
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• pp.15-26
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• 2001

China adopted a free market economy and is a member of WTO. It has now emerged as one of the most promising markets in the word for the near future. The purpose of this study was to investigate of Chinese women clothing behavior and preference of clothing design by body types and to suggest basic information for high quality clothes merchandising of exporting to China. The subjects in this study were 280 Chinese women, aged from 20 to 50 living in Beijing. The survey was taken from June to July, 1999. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, $\chi$$^2$-test, factor analysis. The results of this study are as follows. Ewamination on the Chinese womens clothing behavior showed that they attach importance to economy for purchasing clothes and have affirmative self-confidence. The thin body type women prefer to fashionable clothes while the fat body type has more reasonable economic behavior for clothing. It is needed to different merchandising project by body type in China..

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.13-31
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• 2006

This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.167-191
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• 1989

The present study was conducted to devlop and appropriate retirement home model for the elderly in terms of clothing and textiles; nutrition, health, and foodservice; housing and environment; and psychological adaptation. Specifically, the purposes of the study were: 1) to provide basic guidelines for clothing by comparing the clothing behavior of the elderly living in the retirement home and those living in their own homes with family, 2) to provide basic guidelines for balanced diet and effective foodservice, 3) to develop an ideal life space and facilities, and 4) to assess the psychological characteristics of the elderly. Questionnaires, observation, experimental method, and survey of literature were used for the study. Clothing behavior showed that the elderly were much concerned about clothing, and they preferred comfortable as well as fashionable designs. The elderly in the retirement homes complained of a lack of quantity and variety in clothing. They preferred natural fiber rather than blended fabrics. Flame resistance, thermal insulation, and flexibility of textile fabrics were found to be prime considerations in manufacturing and selecting clothing materials for the elderly. The health status of the surveyed elderly was generally good, but some poor eating habits were observed. Dietary nutrients intakes were generally sufficient, but several nutrients intakes were insufficient. The level of equipment in the kitchens of the institutions was low. Furthermore, the employment rate of dietitians in institutional settings was extremely low. This resulted in a lack of systematic foodservice management. Residents in the institution were generally satisfied with present life space and facilities but this was mainly because of abandonment, adaptation, and past experience. Optimal allocation of residents per bedroom and an adequate design for storage, bathroom, utility room, and dining room were recommended. The comparison of psychological status of the elderly living at home was more stable than those living in an institution. The emotional state of the elderly living in the institution was characterized by loneliness; they did not have close interpersonal relationships or future plans. An appropriate model for the elderly was developed on the basis of these findings.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to identify appearance management behavior related to well-being lifestyle of women. The results of the study were as follows: 1. The factors relating to a well-being lifestyle were personality and value, fashionable appearance, leisure activity, healthy food, brands, social activities, reasonable consumption, environmental protection, and individuality. The factors of appearance management behavior were weight management and skin care, apparel and accessory management, dietary treatment, bathing, make-up and hair styling, underwear management, using hospitals, beauty salons, and identity kits. 2. Women were classified into 4 kinds of groups: well-being, reasonable value pursuit, ostensible consumption, and bad-being. 3. The members of the well-being group were generally married, highly educated, had a high income, and spent a lot of money for their appearance management. They had a high level of appearance management in terms of weight and skincare, apparel and fashion accessories management, dietary treatment, bathing, make-up and hairstyling, underwear management, and in the use of hospitals and beauty salons. The members of the reasonable value pursuit group were generally married, less educated, with a medium income, and spent little for their appearance management. Members of the ostensible consumption group were generally unmarried, with a low income but spent lot of money for sundries and appearance management. They also had a high level of appearance management with regard to weight training and skin care, apparel and fashion accessory management, underwear management, the use of hospitals and beauty salons, and using identity kits. Members of the bad-being group were generally unmarried, had low incomes, little disposable income, spent little on appearance management, and didn't manage their appearance as a whole.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.35-48
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to understand the importance and structure of underwear which is the closest cloth to the body. Scope of this research is from middle of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Firstly, I studied background of the times and change of women's status and duty. Secondly, I examined the outer garment closely by the ideal beauty of each period based on the study, and thirdly I looked into structure ways of underwear. Then lastly, I took a close look about the relation of outer garment and underwear, comparing with and researching both. I studied this research, focusing on corset, crinoline and bustle based on main characters such as reform and transform among several functions of underwear. The research results are such as follows. First of all, when women's social and economic status was subjected to men, women had worn corset and fashionable dresses even though there was many object movements and vices in women's garment. Secondly, according to those movements, the ideal beauty had changed little in the same sort emphasizing on breast and hip. Thirdly, structure method of underwear changed by ideal beauty and shape of outer garment. Due to increasing sports participation, improvement of women's position, achievement of practical use, women used more drawers and stopped wearing hoop. And the weight of underwear like combination and suspender attached to corset had decreased and advanced into the more practical way. Because of industrialization, function seemed to be granted by technology development, social position change of femininity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to suggest the most appropriate design concepts for sportive fashion product based on the analysis of consumers' acceptance of the recent sportive fashion trends according to their lifestyle. The subjects consisted of 295 males and females, between 17 and 35 year-old. A self-report questionnaire with 4 stimuli was employed for data gathering, and the data were analyzed by the methods of frequency, factor analysis, cluster analysis, and Pearson's correlation coefficient. The results of this study were summarized as follows: For the First, the recent sportive fashion trends were categorized into four groups; 'street- sportive' trend, 'futuristic-sportive' trend, 'ethnic-sportive' trend and 'urban-utility sportive' trend. Secondly, based on the result of cluster analysis on consumers' lifestyle, total four consumer groups were identified; 'pursuing sense' group, 'pursuing culture' group, 'pursuing utility' group, and 'indifference' group. Thirdly, the consumers relatively preferred two sportive styles among the four groups, typically representing 'urban-utility' trend and 'street' trend. The typical 'urban-utility' style was particularly preferred by the consumers who desired to express themselves as urban, modern, and luxurious. The typical 'street' style was preferred by the consumers who tried to express themselves as active and fashionable. Finally, preferences of the sportive trends according to consumers' lifestyle were interpreted as follows: the 'pursuing sense' group relatively preferred 'urbanutility' style and 'street' style, the 'pursuing culture' group preferred 'street' style and the 'pursuing utility' group preferred 'urban-utility' style, meaningwhile the 'indifference' group preferred 'street' style and 'urban- utility' style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.41-55
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the trends of product design for textile convergence wearable smart textile fashion products according to college students' fashion life style. In this study, we used information obtained from a questionnaire issued to 201 female college students who were 20 years old for the final analysis. The questionnaires were to classify female college students groups according to the fashion life style, to examine characteristics, needs and wants of each group. The survey on the tendency of wearable smart textiles consisted of 22 items about concept and type of smart clothing product, functional material and intelligent material, recognition, preference, purchase intention, purchase factor and brand preference tendency. A total of 201 samples were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, crosstabs and $x^2-test$ using SPSS package program. 'brand preference oriented type was found to be interested in 'wearable' smart clothing product with monitoring function of bio-signal' and 'high functional fiber and textile product', but the credibility of 'smart clothes that can be worn and smart textile products to be useful in modern life' was low. 'fashionable individuality oriented' type showed interest in 'smart clothing and smart product', 'intelligent fiber' and 'wearable smart clothing product with monitoring function of bio-signal', but the preferences of 'light emitting fiber products' was low. 'practically purchasing-oriented' type was very interested in 'high-functional fiber and its textile products', but had inadequate knowledge on 'smart clothing and smart textile product' and showed low interest. Despite the fact that 'wearable smart clothing and smart textile products' are expensive, they were willing to purchase considering practicality and sophisticated style.