• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.69-86
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• 2011

The objective of this research is to unveil the dynamic changes of the trends in wedding dresses during the 20th Century. The studies were carried out in two forms; firstly by observing the actual wedding dresses worn by people at that time, and secondly by conducting formative comparisons between those dresses with the ones appeared in movies corresponding to that period. Movies provide an invaluable insight into the era's wedding dresses fashion trends since they function as intimate bridges in connection with the time's audience, and the visible imageries accurately reflect the characteristics embedded within that time frame. As there are no precedent studies regarding this topic, this thesis can serve as vital research data for the wedding dress industry. Research data regarding the actual wedding dresses were collected from books and museum web sites. The object of movies were films produced before World War II that contained both the background settings of the 20th Century and wedding dresses, of which photographic imageries were captured. Research analysis was then conducted by merging these data with findings from relevant books and internet materials. The results of the thesis are as the following: The 1900s was an extension of the 19th Century's popular fashion trend which can be characterized as the S curve silhouettes of the Edwardian period when long trains and long veils symbolized wealth and social power. In the 1910s, high waist silhouettes with soft wrinkles were prevalent as attire suitable for active mobility with practical functionality were highly regarded. During the 1920s, the flapper style became the dominant trend. Hem lines of the skirts were curled in the form of the scallop and laces were the most widely used raw materials. By the 1930s, wedding dresses that reinterpreted the glamorous sheath lines, practical two piece styles, and retro-styles became predominant. The 1940s saw the advent of ready-made wedding dresses made of synthesized materials; practical military style suits and casuals sometimes substituted the wedding dresses. And although the wedding dresses in the movies were primarily costumes to express the personalities of the characters, they were also reinterpreted as manifestations of the formative characteristics of each relative period that pursued very distinct and diverse features.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.735-747
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• 2008

This study was about the fashion model's images during the periods of time. Also, this was to know the model's role and fields they had worked in and to investigate the specializing courses to get advice from their diversities, specialties and activities. The method of the study was used the qualitative analysis from the relative books, theses from university graduates, the related society newsletters, fashion magazines that were printed periodical/non-periodical, and others. As a result, the glamourous image was the most famous in the twenties and thirties, and the elegant image mainly in the forties and fifths. The images were more diverse in the nineties through the girlish images of the sixties, and the sexy image with good health of the seventies and eighties. Baby faces became the ideal of models in the new century. The images of the models become popular and disappear rapidly due to the change of major trend with the change of the society's environment. Under the situation, they must take good care of their images and self-control themselves to keep a positive view of fashion models to the public, and they must have ambition as a fashion icon and make their own exclusive fields in various parts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.513-525
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• 2005

This article examines how the development process of muff has changed over history as well as considering value. This study is based on secondary sources such as books and fashion magazines. The imminent value of muff based on the results of this historical study can be summarized by its utility, its ornamentation, and its fashion value. First, muff is not only used to protect the hands or to keep them warm, but also as a substitute for the purse. Second, muff is an ornament decorated mainly with fur, using splendid colors, patterns, embroidery etc. Third, muff goes with other clothes as an ornament, and therefore, can be a means to express the attitude or behavior of many circumstances. Muff has vanished in casual wear and could meet by chance in a designers collection. However, the fashion value of muff brings it new attention making various creative fashion images by itself or with other clothes in the modern fashion trend. This study on the history and the aesthetic value of muff could stimulate the appreciation of the ornamentation aside from the clothes and serve to develop a new creative way in fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.33-44
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research Miao ethnic costume which have been distinctly expressed differences according tribes and areas, present fashion design reflecting image of Miao ethnic costume. Two steps was taken in order to achive this purpose. The first step was to put in order formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume being based on the Chinese books and domestic research materials. The second step was to study formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume in comparison 2000A/W fashion trend, illustrate and schematize fashion designs. The results of formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume are summarized as follows 1. X or H silhouette through skirt & jacket and pants & jacket. 2. Layered look that been twisted around several items. 3. Fine pleats skirts. 4. Refined and splendid color. Black was used main color, dark blue & red purple were used coordi color, vivid color were used accent color 5. Geometrical pattern, cross stitch embroidery. 6. Various ornaments being used silver. 7. Various hair styles and hairdressers. Using above characteristics, this study presneted fusion fashion design combined images of ethnic and techno with dark blue, mustard, blue purple. The target was Forties, professional woman.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.987-1003
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to supply available data for men's fashion design planning by analyzing the trend and design tendency of the preppy look in the domestic men's collection. In the men's collection of Seoul fashion week from 2011 S/S to 2015 S/S, 494 photos judged to be the preppy look by three design specialists were chosen in Seoul fashion week and style.com's web-site. Design analyses were compiled based on year, season, brands, item, color, material, and silhouette. The preppy look was found often in S/S season, three piece combinations were the most common, and "H", "I" silhouettes were also popular. Refined black and refreshing orange were used with traditional preppy colors like navy, beige, gray, and white. Contrast color arrangement and neutral, moderate tones were seen repeatedly. Two-thirds of fabrics were pattern-less with clean, bulky, and soft textures. Coordinating accessories like hats, backpacks, books, headsets were used frequently. Among the various preppy fashion types, there were 'traditional preppy' faithful to tradition, 'sophisticated preppy' with refined semi-formal look, 'sportive preppy' with active sports sense, and 'natural preppy' with natural and comfortable senses. In a contemporary preppy look, traditional and practical senses are combined with casual and sportive pieces. This study can provide the data for design planning, interpreting, and applying the fashion themes along with contemporary sensibilities since the preppy look is based on cultural history.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.117-128
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to understand changes of the current young generation's lifestyle, aesthetic attitude for an appearance, and way of thinking by making a close investigation into metrosexual, the recent mode, and find out its cultural and social implications. As a method of the study, the literature and the Internet data were reviewed. Articles from newspapers, magazines and the Internet were chosen roughly from the year 2000 to now because metrosexual mode remarkably boomed before and after 2000. Books related to the theory on the mode in a costume culture were referred. Also, articles in daily newspapers which dealt with cultural and social issues were reviewed, fashion magazines for men such as Esquire and GQ showing the new trend in men's lifestyle and fashion were examined, and the Internet providing us the latest news from cultural and social topics to fashion trends were investigated. The backgrounds of the rise of metrosexual mode were a collapse of stereotypes in various fields, spread of lookism in a visual image period, extension of commercialism, and expansion of men's character casual trend. Metrosexual was defined as an urban male with a strong aesthetic sense who spends a great deal of time and money on his appearance and lifestyle. His fashion style was characterized by slim and flowing silhouette, feminine and luxurious materials such as transparent chiffon, silk and cotton with a light and soft touch, and a knitted wear with a flowing line, a wide variety of vivid and pastel colors, floral and geometric patterns, and the decorative details like lace, beads, embroidery, and fur. From spread of this mode, two cultural and social implications were extracted. Firstly, the current young generation's aesthetic standards for the perfect man changed from macho man to considerate man who had a good appearance and this suggested that a conventional sex role broke down. Secondly, men began to explore for their own identity escaping from traditionally standardized masculinity that they had been forced to follow.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.545-558
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• 2021

This research analyzed the Chinese style design embodied in the collections of the new generation of fashion designers shown during the Shanghai Fashion Week to improve the understanding of Chinese style and the modernization of Chinese design. The research questions were 1) studying the development of the Chinese fashion industry chronologically and investing young designers' current situation, 2) investigating young designers' awareness of Chinese style and analyzing Chinese style design in collections. A literature and case study were conducted as the research method. The literature study focused on the books about the Chinese fashion industry and history, newspaper, articles, and so on. The case study was conducted among 63 Chinese style collections in 2016-2020 SFW by investigating fashion magazine reviews, articles, and so on. The findings are as follows: 1) Young Chinese fashion designers' awareness of Chinese style has three characteristics; the nonmaterial tendency from decreasing stereotyped images, combination of traditional culture and local youth culture, and commercialization with trends. 2) Chinese elements, including natural, character, and cultural elements were predominantly used in the concept, pattern, and shape. Nonmaterial characteristics were identified in concept, cultural combination characteristics in concept, shape, color, material, and pattern, and trend commercialization in shape, color, and pattern. In conclusion, Chinese young fashion designers had strong national consciousness and new awareness of Chinese style fashion in decreasing the stereotyped images of China. Thus, they used more varied expressions. Meanwhile, they faced difficulties in expressing nonmaterial Chinese elements by balancing them with Chinese style and globalization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.165-179
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• 2002

This paper begins with the thesis that the so-called 'Be Slow' Movement has not only affected the contemporary life style but also the current fashion trend in the West as well as in Korea. The influence of the 'Be Slow' Movement on the everyday life of Western and Korean society can be documented by recent books, news reports, and many articles from various kinds of mass media and fashion magazines since the year 2000. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First. the 'Be Slow' Movement is a new cultural phenomenon and very different from that of the past century. It has emerged very recently and it could affect the life style o( its followers for a long period of time. Second, the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement on everyday life can be witnessed in many behavioral choices. such as the preference of organic food and natural cooking for food and the preference of rural life and a green patch of land for housing. Some aspects of the way of rearing the children and long-term planning of one's life are also under the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement. In a way. the life style Proposed by the 'Be Slow' Movement is somewhat similar to that of 'Bobos'. Third, the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement on the current fashion trend can be observed in the appreciation of time-consuming labour and increased usage of D.I.Y. clothing. The higher value of fashion goods with handcrafted part or scarce luxury item are good examples of the influence by the 'Be Slow' Movement. One can say that the 'Be Slow' Movement is not retrogression, but a re-creation of time and space to be grateful for one's life. Thus, it is not anti-technology but a commercialism with technology in order to enhance the quality of life and to place people in the center of production and consumption. Consequently, one may say that the 'Be Slow' Movement is a appropriate and affluent way of living.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.32-43
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze the granny look of the new-tro trend via Alessandro Michele's Gucci collection and to provide a reference standard for future design developments by identifying the representation of the granny look. To analyze the new-tro trend and the granny look, basic concepts were analyzed through aesthetic and art books and the photographic data were collected through Internet sites. A total of 186 fashion images were considered as granny look by five clothing experts. The images were subdivided into silhouettes and items, materials, patterns, and colors to analyze the modeling factors and identify the intrinsic inner meaning based on the theory of Nostalgia. The analysis showed that the silhouette was expressed naturally without exaggeration or shrinkage. The thermosetting materials included fur, velvet, knit and quilted materials, while the colors showed raw and faded shades based on the use of natural colors. The patterns were mostly natural, such as flowers, leaves, and stalks, which were aimed at nature. The inner meaning of the granny look is based on the theory of Nostalgia, primarily because it is an emotional fairy tale and second, it reflected the sessions of nature. Also, it is a reinterpretation of the narrative. In conclusion, the academic and fashion industries need to understand the various emerging trends in accordance with the social and cultural backgrounds to derive a positive benefit.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.97-111
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• 2023

Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.