The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.
Journal of the Institute of Electronics Engineers of Korea SC
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v.37
no.1
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pp.56-63
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2000
Buck converter is considered to be one of the most widely used DC-DC converters due to its simple structure and high reliable performance. However, when it be combined with thin-film inductor, its own low inductance requires higher switching frequency in order to maintain optimum output ripple voltage and thus gives rise to extra switching losses. In view to overcoming such a technical inconvenience, soft switching fashion is suggested such as zero-voltage-switching of which an well known example is a Zero-Voltage-Switching clamp voltage(ZVS-CV) converter for which low inductance is imperatively required for ZVS operation. In order to support our suggestion, a 1W ZVS-CV buck converter is built by use of thin-film inductor, and then tested it. From the results of experiment and loss analysis, it is proved that the ZVS operation is well achieved and the measured efficiency of the converter is improved about 4% at full load comparing the conventional buck converter.
Background: Aphthous stomatitis is a common disease of the oral mucosa and its pathogenesis is associated with several risk factors. Frequently, minor ulcers are idiopathic in nature and often resolve naturally. However, those ulcers are painful and sensibly compromise patients' eating. There are different treatment strategies for the clinical management of oral aphthae. Methods: The present study assessed the efficacy of a film-forming cream in accelerating the healing and diminishing the pain associated with minor aphthae in a randomized fashion design. The test product (AphtoFix®) was compared with placebo cream in a cohort of patients with a diagnosis of minor recurrent stomatitis. Patients were randomly distributed into two groups and were followed for 10 days. The primary outcomes included the number of days until symptoms were relieved and the number of days to complete healing. Results: Thirty-six patients completed the follow-up, eighteen per group. All lesions eventually healed within day 10. However, patients in the test group experienced significantly less pain, already from day 1. Patients in the test group also showed a faster healing rate of the lesion with an average of 7 days against the 9 days required for patients in the control group. Conclusion: The present study supported the utility of a film-forming in cream in relieving the patient from symptoms associated with aphthous stomatitis already at day 1 of product use. Patients also displayed faster healing of the lesions when compared to the control group. Further studies with greater sample size and patient stratification according to age and risk factors are recommended to support the present findings.
Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.
The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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v.9
no.3
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pp.825-834
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2023
The demands of people who purchase fashion products on Internet shopping are gradually increasing, and attempts are being made to provide user-friendly images with 3D contents and web 3D software instead of pictures and videos of products provided. As a reason for this issue, which has emerged as the most important aspect in the fashion web shopping industry, complaints that the product is different when the product is received and the image at the time of purchase has been heightened. As a way to solve this problem, various image processing technologies have been introduced, but there is a limit to the quality of 2D images. In this study, we proposed an automatic conversion technology that converts 2D images into 3D and grafts them to web 3D technology that allows customers to identify products in various locations and reduces the cost and calculation time required for conversion. We developed a system that shoots a mannequin by placing it on a rotating turntable using only 8 cameras. In order to extract only the clothing part from the image taken by this system, markers are removed using U-net, and an algorithm that extracts only the clothing area by identifying the color feature information of the background area and mannequin area is proposed. Using this algorithm, the time taken to extract only the clothes area after taking an image is 2.25 seconds per image, and it takes a total of 144 seconds (2 minutes and 4 seconds) when taking 64 images of one piece of clothing. It can extract 3D objects with very good performance compared to the system.
Luxury, an expression of richness and expensiveness which can be achieved after putting in extensive an elaborate handworks, has been expressed in Hollywood movie costumes. The purpose of this thesis is to explore the characteristics of movie costumes of Hollywood studio designers, and to contemplate luxury expressed in movie costumes for such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the luxury in movie costumes which has been reflected in fashion history, film studies and feminist theories, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The luxury expressed in movie costumes could be identified as expensiveness, exclusiveness, excess, and indulgence. In the movie costumes, expensive materials such as furs, jewelry, and decorations were used. Couture and custom-made costumes were the expressions of exclusivity. Also, the excessive luxury were the expression of bigness, scalelessness or extreme abundance. Indulgence in luxury is shown in use of uncommon characteristics, especially in gangster movie costumes.
Jisu Lee;Ayoung Jang;Ji Eun Gwon;Seung Woo Lee;Sang Oh Lee;Jaewoong Lee
Textile Coloration and Finishing
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v.35
no.4
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pp.221-230
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2023
Meta-aramid and polyamic acid were separated and the manufactured films were analyzed for their integration and logarithmic properties. The miscibility of meta-aramid and polyamic acid was analyzed by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and scanning electron microscopy. Using calorimetric analysis and differential scanning calorimetry, the storage of meta-aramid and polyamic acid, indicated on the right side of the column, was analyzed. It was confirmed that the initial thermal resistance occurs because the polyamic acid is accounted for in the meta-aramid, and the glass transition temperature and persistence phenomenon are explained.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.9
no.2
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pp.85-92
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2007
This study focused on bean-juice treatment method which have dyeing property to indigo, yellow soil, sappan wood, cochineal and also on the possibility of applying to mordanting. This is different from the active mordanting using chemicals. Natural mordants with development of dyeing are not harmful, also are the medicines for disease. Limestone and ash neutralize the acidic soil. bean-juice protein adhere to cellulose surface and change the physical properties of protein so that coloring of dye is better than before and film non-soluble in water is made. Therefore the color made from bean-juice process lasts after washing. This study try to show one of the ways to improve the current method using the heavy metal which can have bad effects for environment and human being. Bean-juice(raw bean, heated bean) treatment method can be the way to fix the natural dyeing problem of bad dyeing. Bean-juice had been treated under various condition with pre-treatment, post-treatment and raw bean, heated bean. Following results are obtained in this study. In the case of Indigo dyeing, pre-treatment of heated bean shows the biggest difference of color. In the case of yellow soil dyeing, pre-treatment of raw bean-juice shows the biggest gap of color. Pre-treatment of heated bean in sappan wood dyeing case and post-treatment of raw bean show bigger color difference than pre-treatment of raw bean. In cochineal dyeing, raw bean pre-treatment shows the biggest color difference.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.21
no.3
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pp.1-11
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2019
This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.23
no.3
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pp.11-21
/
2021
Virtual reality is currently mainly used in games, but is starting to be applied as a variety of media fields, such as broadcasting and film. Virtual reality provides more fun than reality, and can provide new experiences in areas that cannot be experienced in reality due to the constraints of time, space, and environment. In particular, as the social non-contact arena has increased due to COVID-19, it is being applied to education, health, and medical industries. The contents are further expanding into design and military fields. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to observe the change in distribution of load and pressure felt by the body in the flying state while wearing a short pants harness, which are mainly used in the game and entertainment industry. In the experiment, the average pressure in the flying state was measured by attaching a pressure sensor to the back and front of a human mannequin. As a result, it was confirmed that the load concentrated on the waist in the flying state was 44 N, with a pressure of 1353 kPa. The pressure distribution was concentrated in front of the center of gravity, and was measured was at 98% by the pressure sensors, with an average pressure value of approximately 15 kPa, and a pressure value of approximately 12 kPa at the back, which was measured at 67% by the pressure sensor. The results of the load and pressure distribution measurement are presented as fundamental data to improve the wearability and comfort of harnesses in the future, and are compared to actual measured pressure values by analyzing the clothing pressure in flight through virtual wear of harnesses through the CLO 3D program.
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