• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.215-231
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• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.163-175
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• 2011

This study tried to improve the design of the symbol mark for the fashion industry and effectively publicize the brand image of a small fashion accessory company through a powerful visual communication strategy. For this purpose, this study performed research and an analysis of the features of existing fashion accessory companies as well as the current status and features of their utilization of symbol marks for the enhancement of the brand's image. Total 48 fashion accessory brands focued on jewerly were selected from the Dictionary of Fashion Brand and the types of symbol analyzed the concepts and formative aesthetics of the symbol mark design in each brand. Based on the data, this study designed the fashion accessory company's logo and a new symbol mark design. It makes full use of the characteristics of the logos and the symbol mark that reflect the most critical issues of fashion accessory design so as to promote the consumers' level of product recognition as well as the product symbol characteristics. In the case of combining characters with concrete objects, they were found generally to use objects that give elegance, cute and feminine images, such as rings, hearts and small pets. Moreover, colors in the series of black/grey seemed to be used to convey the concept of accessory brands that pursue modern, sophisticate, and practical images. As these design plans, enhancement of the consumers' level of recognition of the brand is attempted as well as the execution of an effective publicity of the feature of the product through the use of the logo and symbol marks reflecting the features of the fashion accessory, instead of simply introducing the brand or product. The result of this study indicates that methods to design brand symbol marks for clothing should be incessantly sought in a way to build brand power as an important component to represent concepts and reinforce brand image.

• 복식
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• 제61권8호
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• pp.32-44
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• 2011

This study will explore the application of the Korean alphabet 'Hangul' and its calligraphy on fashion design. Hangul is well known for its great formative characteristics. Its calligraphy has unique features that express the implicative meaning of the Korean language while simultaneously displays beautiful shapes that draw the viewer's eye. When Hangul calligraphy is applied on the pattern design, it can be an excellent opportunity to demonstrate the visual beauty of Hangul. The purpose of this study is to develop the pattern designs that utilize the Hangul calligraphy and apply them in various fields of fashion. The detailed concepts of this study are as follows. First, the theoretical concepts and characteristics of both Hangul calligraphy and pattern design will be understood. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of calligraphy will be drawn by case analysis on the artworks of famous calligraphers such as Kim Jong-geon, Kang Byeong-in, Lee Sang-hyeon, Lee Gyu-bok and other representative calligraphers who design the beauty of Korean calligraphy by handwriting and brush-writing. The obtained results will be used to explore the desirable direction of fashion design. Third, eight pattern motif fashion works that utilize Hangul calligraphy in accordance with the arrangement of different characteristics of fashion design will be presented.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.699-706
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• 2004

In today's fashion industry, directions for new products and high value added of fashion goods, product changes according to cycles, the shortening of life cycles, added value, planned obsolescence, and presentation is focused on fashion trends that will be selected by many consumers at the point of selling time. Therefore fashion information poses great importance and its weight is growing bigger everyday. Fashion information recognized to be important is reflected practically in the prediction of fashion changes in the fashion industry; especially, it is the first stage of the merchandising process that is the course of new product development. Presently, with some differences according to the size and specialized area of a firm, domestic fashion menufacturers obtain information from sales data of competing brands and their own, market information, consumer information based on primary data, shared fashion trend information given by domestic fashion information providing companies. Firms can not produce differentiated images and product concepts using such shared information. Although the types, importance and reflection of used information vary according to merchandising processes, all experts engaging in the merchandising of fashion products use the same shared information.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.175-188
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• 2010

This study suggests a new paradigm of fashion merchandising as an environmental change of the fashion industry. The study has the pattern of a literature study and it is analyzed through journals, professional books, fashion magazines, and newspapers. Examined are the environmental changes of the fashion industry, the condition, and problems of the merchandising process that is executed currently, as well as an examination of the concept of fashion merchandising, Concepts and changes for new fashion merchandising strategies are suggested that are helpful for academics and fashion companies. This paper defines the concept of new fashion merchandising as the integrated management activity of planning, development, and selling fashion products to create a profit for the company with the satisfaction of the target customers. This study proposes the pursuance of integrated merchandising, the change of product planning and product development, and the strengthening of store-centered retail merchandising in order to change the direction of fashion merchandising.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.1072-1084
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• 2016

Over the years, the relationship between fashion and art has received significant attention in fashion studies. This study seeks to research and inquire on the relation of pastiche strategies with art-works in fashion advertising with a focus on luxury fashion brands. Pastiche means 'the exhaustion of creativity' and can be represented in fashion advertising's borrowing of art-works. This study examines the concepts of fashion advertising and pastiche, focusing on the relation between fashion and art. Based on this as a framework, this study examines cases of art-work in fashion advertising, then reveals the effect that luxury fashion brands achieve through art. Unfortunately, every case cannot be confined to pastiche, but drawing on the strategy of pastiche allows us to show how art is being used in advertisement as well as how fashion and art are being changed.

• 복식
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.109-123
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• 2004

In this study, the fashion trend after the 1990s and the characteristics of fashion in the postmodernistic viewpoint that mainly effected fashion were observed, and the characteristics of fashion illustration expression was observed in the viewpoint of its link. It can be seen that mutually close characteristics are mutually linked. As the result of this study, the characteristics of fashion illustration can be categorized into three areas. and the sub-concepts are as following. The first category is the pursuit of feminine beauty of individual multi-dimension. This includes- 1) retro feminine beauty; 2) fetishistic and ecstatic feminine beauty; 3) mixed composition genderless (mixed composition style. ageless style and raceless style): and 4) beauty of body deconstruction and reconstruction (deformation due to partial transformation, change into animalization, mechanization and spirituelization. and beautification of crudeness). The second is the intentional deviation of expression and production technique. This includes-1) deviation from traditional perspective; 2) deviation from composition concept: and 3) breaking away from the existing material and expression technique of material. The third is the pursuit of authority-rejection form of expression. This is an area that should be noticed in the fashion illustration expression of the 1990s, as it shows the most diverse phenomenon. The sub-concepts of this category include- 1) separation of art 2) minimalism (minimalism in structure and production method); 3) flatness; 4) completion of incompletion; 5) accidentalism; 6) sportive;7) absence of figure; 8) intentional childishness 9) story development; 10) techno mechanism and cyber character; and 11) animation style.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권3호
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• pp.437-455
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• 2016

This paper proposes a multi-disciplinary approach for fashion criticism in museology through an analysis of the 2014 Charles James's retrospective. It includes the following elicitations. First, it explores a critical discussion of "dress museology" as well as "fashion museology" and the complexity of fashion in museums. Second, this paper reorganizes Fleming's (1974) artifact study and Crane and Bovone's (2006) critical theory for fashion criticism in museology by comparing "object-based" research with an "academic" approach. Third, it applies fashion criticism methodology as a case study to the aforementioned museum fashion exhibit, entitled . We can subsequently begin to reconsider concepts of art and fashion within present culture based on inclusive fashion criticism of aesthetic and cultural events.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.219-226
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• 2001

This study analyzed the works, introduced in the collections of Thierry Mugler in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. The formative aesthetic expressed in the works of Thierry Mugler were characterized by the eroticism and the futurism. The formative aesthetic of eroticism were specified into the sexualism, primitivism and fetishism, and those of futurism were divided into the cosmocorps and the grotesque. The eroticism was based on the design concept on the body of woman. The sexuality was expressed through the design concept of opposing, extreme and conversion method. The primitivism was presented through the design concept of extreme method to express a returning to nature and a nostalgia and an adoration for the past. The pieces, expressed the fetishism, was presented through opposing concepts, such as a bondage and an extreme expose. It was indicated that the design concept of futurism was based on the future. The cosmocorps was expressed through the extreme method by using geometrical formative aesthetic and contrast color combination. The grotesque represented the mysterious and abhorrent futurism through the design concept of depaysment conversion and analogy.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.103-116
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• 2010

Recently, the art of the Latin America Culture is being actively introduced into our country. Many concepts in the fashion field contain Latin American culture and their influence is growing. This present study, based on a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture, is an attempt to expand the expression of fashion design and explore the use of works of art in fashion. The case study is on Frida Kahlo (1907~1954), who was a Mexican woman painter who gives us some inspiration in contemporary fashion design. The scope of this case study investigates the Haute couture and the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2009 which were greatly influenced by Frida Kahlo and analyzes through the formative elements of dress, color, form, pattern and material. Frida Kahlo was a painter whose composition of surrealism held the world of life and death, pain and pleasure, love and parting, thought and freedom, and tradition and modern, etc. As a design inspiration, her influence reaches into accessories, and hairstyles, as well as the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter. This current study for the correct understanding of the new culture and the introduction of art into the fashion design might be helpful in making fashion a work of art and in extending the expression of the fashion design concept which is based on commercial art.