• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.728-738
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• 2006

As movies and dramas which show traditional clothes and fusion clothes are getting popular these days, lot of people are paying attention to these dress and ornaments. And as for the domestic collections which seem to reflect this trend, various fusion style clothes are getting widely adopted by people. Therefore, this study analyzed and considered the clothes designs when the country started to open itself to other countries, by selecting a movie titled "YMCA baseball team", a movie to ascertain vigorous historical verification, and by conducting the prior study and using the DVD capture program. This study is meaningful in that based on the comparison study on the costumes, it clarifies the degree of costumes(clothes) acceptance at the point of nation's opening to other countries, which is the source of fusion style, and further shed light on the role that the movie costumes will play. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, through the theoretical background it can be known that when the country opened itself to outside world the dress and ornaments of the time was adopted in a top-down way, namely, first adopted by the royal family and the upper class, which could have easy access to the western civilization and institutions, and then the low class later. Second, in the movie titled 'YMCA baseball team' the costumes were designed through the strict and thorough historic verification, and it can be confirmed that various dress and ornaments adopted at the time of nation's opening to the outside world centered around the clothes design for new women. Third, 'YMCA baseball team is evaluated as a movie that reproduces that time well and as a media that provides an effective clue to the dress and ornaments adopted by the public when the country opened itself to the outside world.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.103-113
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• 2011

The purpose of the study was to examine formative features of embroidered norigae in form, color, pattern and expressive technique through positive analysis of relics and various of collections of work and to consider expressive features of embroidered norigae. The results of the study were as follows. First, embroidered norigae has handcrafted decoration. it was made by being sewed for women longing for their family's happiness. Embroidered norigae is a dress worn by women that is hung on a coat string or the waist part of a skirt. Second, it is eco-environmental. Embroidered norigae applied things seen in nature such as flowers, butterflies and bees to its pattern. Third, it has practicality. Embroidered norigae has high practical value besides a decorative function. Needle case norigae and incense case norigae provide functions in accordance with women's wisdom and skill as well as practicality. Fourth, it is praying for good luck. Women embroidered patterns symbolizing their desires in life such as their family's happiness, wealth, many sons and a long life. Fifth, it has balance and harmony. The knot of embroidered norigae has a perfect symmetry in the front/back part and in the right/left part. And the main body and tassel are symetrical in the right/left part, which gives stability and comfortableness. Embroidered norigae is classified into knot, main body and decorative part in its form. The three kinds express their unique beauty by being harmonized together. Finally, it has a property of melody. Movement of the tassel has a property of melody shaken by the wind and movement of its wearer.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.52-68
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to be inquired inner contemplation of the tattoo expressed in the modern costumes. For this study, related documentaries and pictures or photos were analyzed in terms of the theretical background for the history of tattoo, the relation between tattoo and the modern western costumes. The primary source of pictures or photos are Vogue, Collections, Collezioni, Harper\`s Bazaar, Modain, Model et Mode etc. The human\`s needs of body decoration had constantly pursued on the body and costumes from the first until lately. Especially in the recents, as the tattoo is implicated a dynamic and charming method of all kinds of body decoration, it\`s used a motive of modern western costumes. The original tattoo means a picture, word etc. that was put permanently onto their skin using a needle and coloring matter. But, these days tattoo is an expression of street style for something new in the subculture. The results were as a follows : The inner meaning of tattoo represented in the modern costumes was classified into two categories. First, the tattooing was a very important factor to complete fashion design through the history of modern costumes, and also the elaborate tattoo of the body was displayed unrestricted formativeness as the skinhead\`s tattoo, raceless\`s ambiguity of street style and artistic decoration, because that can be faded easily. Second, Tattoo Look was expressed as tattoo prints of the see-through, elastic textiles in the modern costumes. That is, the tattoo enhanced the effect of dramatic atmosphere other formative arts as well as the modern costumes by Tattoo Look. Similarity, Tattoo Look could be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness by the influence of the subculture. Accordingly, in the end of a this century, many experimental designers had applied tattoo to modern costumes. So this study will stand as an important clue to foresee the future costume\`s style and change.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1050-1063
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• 2008

A movie is a fiction made on a basis of an author's and a writer's imagination, but all sorts of properties mixed with each other and most realistically expresses the era which becomes the background of a movie and acts as a carrier that connects designers with consumers. Thus, this study was carried out to review how the fashion products that designer's intention and commercial value added are expressed in collections by comparing and analysing the costumes in the movie "The Great Gatsby" that described the life of America's upper-class in 1920s and the 04 S/S Y&Kei collection which were proceeding after getting inspiration from this movie. For this, literature materials were inspected in order to make a theoretical review on social and cultural background and costumes history background in 1920s and the photo materials on movie costume were collected and analysed using DVD video captures, as well as the photo materials on 04 S/S Y&Kei were collected and analyzed through the institute providing domestic fashion information. The following conclusion was deduced through this study. First, in 1920s which becomes the background of this study, the slim shape of Flapper which looks like a young and boy became an ideal figure condition and the straight silhouette with low waist line and the short skirt that rose to knee was popular. Second, as a result of analysing movie costume by classifying it in silhouette, colors, and materials, straight silhouette of low waistline with a near colored - tone seen in the pastel series, including white, beige, pink, and gray was mainly constituted and the metal colors like silver and gold were used. As a material, chiffon, satin, velvet, flower patterned prints, and beads were used, which represented luxurious life of women in the upper classes. Third, as a result of comparing and analysing, it turned out that there was a similarity. However, in dress collection for a heroine, some dissimilarity differentiated from a movie costumes was found out in that the dresses in collection expressed moderate beauty and modernism and elegant beauty at the same time by matching a variety of materials and using black color.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제13호
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• pp.73-95
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• 2012

In terms of element and process, art today has already been fully systemized, yet tends to become even more systemized. All phases of creation and exhibition, appreciation and education, promotion and marketing are planned, adjusted, and decided within the order of a globalized, networked system. Each phase is executed, depending on the system of management and control and diverse means corresponding to the system. From the step of education, artists are guided to determine their styles and not be motivated by their desire to become star artists or running counter to mainstream tendency and fashion. In the process of planning an exhibition, the level of artist awareness is considered more significant than work quality. It is impossible to avoid such systems and institutions today. No one can escape or be freed from the influence of such system. This discussion addresses a serious distortion in the selection system as part of the system connotatively called "art museum system," especially to evaluate artistic achievement and aesthetic quality. Called "studio system" or "art star system," the system distinguishes successful minority from failed absolute majority and justifies the results, deciding discriminative compensations. The discussion begins from work by Hunter Jonakin and Dan Perjovschi. The key point of this discussion is not their art worlds but the shared truth referred by the two as the collusive "art market" and "art star system." Through works based on their experiences, the two artists refer to these systems which restrict and confine them. Jonakin's Jeff Koons Must Die! is avideo game conveying a critical comment on authoritative operation of the museum system and star system. In this work, participants, whether viewer or artist, are destined to lose: the game is unwinnable. Players take the role of a person locked in a museum where artist Jeff Koons' retrospective is held. The player can either look around and quietly observe the works, which causes a game-over, or he can blow the classical paintings to pieces and cause the artist Koons to come out and reprimand the player, also resulting in a game-over. Like Jonakin, Dan Perjovschi's some drawings also focuses on the status of the artist shrunken by the system. Most artists are ruined in a process of competition to survive within the museum system. As John Burger properly pointed out, out of the art systems today, public collections (art museums) and private collections have become "something unbearable." The system justifies the selection system of art stars and its frame of reference, disregarding the problem of producing numerable victims in its process. What should be underlined above all else is that the present selection system seriously shrinks art's creative function and its function of generating meaning. In this situation, art might fall to the level of entertainment, accessible to more people and compromising with popularity. This discussion is based on assumption and consciousness on the matter that this situation might cause catastrophic results for not only explicit victims of the system but also winners, or ones defined as winners. The system of art is probably possible only by desire or distortion stemmed from such desire. The system can be flourished only under the economic system of avarice: quantitatively expanding economy, abundant style, resort economy in Venice and Miami, and luxurious shopping malls with up-to-date facilities. The catastrophe here is ongoing, not a sudden emergence, and dynamic, leading the system itself to a devastating end.

• 복식
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.129-143
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• 2002

Patterns are something that comes out of necessity in human life, which is closely associated with it. Thus come the SFAA (Seoul Fashion Artists Association) collection which uses patterns varying in form, color, way of expression and material. For this research, I first categorized the patterns the SFAA designers used into: natural patterns, symmetric patterns, traditional patterns, stripe, plaid, dot and abstract patterns. As a result of the process. the designers most favored the natural patterns and symmetric patterns, and dot patterns were rarely used. The designer who most favored patterns in general was Sul Yun-hyoung, and the designer Kim Chul-ung rarely favored the surface effect. The seven kinds of patterns naturally differ according to the designer. as Park Hang-chi liked to use the plaid patterns along with yam dyeing material, whereas Jin Teok expressed stripe patterns using the yarn dyeing fabric. Natural patters were presented in a bizarre way with Lie Sang-bong. who took the motives appearing in Eastern ceramic and paintings into the clothes, using the print method. The symmetric patterns, which the SFAA designers most preferred. was used evenly among designers like Chang Kwang-hyo, Gee Choon-hee. Rubina, and Haneza. In contrast. Lie Sang-bong. who used abstract patterns that do not give out meaning of the actual form of the pattern. rarely used symmetric patterns. The dot patterns were most often used by Park Youn-soo. and traditional patterns were overwhelmingly chosen by Sul Yun-hyoung. Secondly. in expressing the colors, SFAA designers were much more likely to choose achromatic colors. not choosing to show off colors. This is especially apparent in works by Haneza and Lie Sang-bong. In the SFAA collections, numerous methods were used to create. For instance, Sul Yun-hyoung used the oriental embroidery method. and Rubina and Lie Sang-bong used many unique dying methods. In terms of materials, Sul Yun-hyoung preferred silk. due to her methods, and Lie Sang-bong was one of the designers that used a number of different materials such as vinyl. Jacques Mueclier of the Paris Clothes Association in France, who was invited to SFAA collection once, remarked. "While the choice of material and the actual sewing done were excellent, there lacked much difference among the designers, as most of them choose flowing silhouette In terms of composition," which is all too correct. In addition, there were cases in the collection where the inherent feelings of cultural artifacts was expressed without alteration. Summing up, the research aimed to analyze the surface expression methods, forms and color of SFAA designs. and I hope that it can open up ways for new projects in the future.he future.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.62-77
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze color characteristics centered by women's suit styles that represent masculinity remarkably. Through this, it figures out color's type and continuance availability as a representing tool to express masculinity to provide useful color information which can be applied effectively to various color planning. For this research, related images were collected among women's pants suits appeared in $2004{\sim}2006's$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection F/W that are most similar to modern man's suit. Among them, the study analyzes 319 pictures where the features of masculinity were represented effectively. The referred color values were earned by converting $L^*a^*b^*$ values measured through the color extracting tool of Computer program (Adobe Photoshop CS) and color tone characteristic were analyzed by classifying 12 color PCCS and 5 achromatic colors. The result of the study are as follows: First, based on standard of color hue and tone, in terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y were frequently shown up but G, BG series were not found much after analyzing overall women's pants suit color characteristics shown in $2004{\sim}2006$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection. Second, the color analysis about 3years of $2004{\sim}2006$ tells that achromatic colors have been most widely used in every year. In terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y series were appeared most popular and G, BG classes weren't appeared frequently. In addition, once looking at yearly color tone distribution trend, like overall color tone distribution result, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were highly used as sequential and b, v, dp, sf, ItGy series show low distribution level. And such a distribution level of low and high in frequency has been showed continuously as a similar style. Accordingly, through the study, as a tool to express masculinity in women's suit, achromatic colors like black and white series and PB, YR, Y series color were investigated as most popular uses. And as color tones, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were used frequently.

• Asia Marketing Journal
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.127-156
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 가족 내 높은 의사결정권을 가진 베이비부머세대 중년여성을 연구대상으로 선정하여 이 소비자에 대한 이해를 높이기 위해 이들이 삶에서 추구하는 가치를 질적연구방법을 통해 알아보았다. 그 결과, 시간, 관계, 젊음과 건강, 자아실현, 의식의 총 5개의 핵심가치를 도출했다. 상위범주들의 맥락적 관계를 구축하여 모형을 도출한 결과, 베이비부머세대 중년여성은 시간적 여유의 증가와 이전/이후세대와는 다른 의식을 인과적 조건으로 하여 자아실현과 타인과의 관계맺기 현상을 나타내며 이 과정에서 스트레스를 받고 있었다. 이들은 이와 같은 현상을 대처하기 위해 건강과 젊음을 위해 다양한 노력을 취하고 있었으며, 이를 통해 최종적으로 시간적 여유가 있고 경제적으로 크게 고통 받지 않는 현재의 삶에 감사하고 있다는 결론을 도출하였다. 모형을 보다 추상적인 중심현상으로 축약화하여 베이비부머세대 중년여성의 삶에 대한 이야기를 구성하였으며, 이를 통해 베이비부머 중년여성이 여러 가지 활동과 노력을 통해 추구하고자 하는 것은 '건강하고 젊고 행복한 삶'이라는 결론을 내렸다. 본 연구를 통해 도출된 실무적 시사점은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 베이비부머세대 중년여성의 삶에 가장 큰 영향을 미치는 시간을 잘 활용하도록 도와주는 상품, 서비스가 필요하다. 둘째, 자아실현 욕구가 높은 베이비부머세대 중년여성이 자아효능감을 느낄 수 있도록 이들의 감각, 능력, 인맥을 활용할 수 있는 기회를 제공해야 한다. 셋째, 이들의 집안과 외모 가꾸기는 자아실현의 방법이므로 이 시장에 대한 세분화가 필요하다. 질적인 방법으로 진행된 본 연구의 한계점을 보완하기 위해서는 다양한 지역과 소득계층을 포함하는 후속연구가 진행되어야 한다. 그리고 이상의 결과를 확인하고 보완하는 차원의 양적연구가 후속으로 진행되어야할 것이며, 이들 삶의 한 부분을 집중적으로 조명하여 더욱 깊이 있는 결과를 도출하는 후속연구가 필요하다.