• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1903-1914
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to propose an efficient and feasible global market entry strategy for the Korean apparel industry by analyzing the Italian fashion industry. In particular, the study investigated the role of foreign exhibitions and showrooms supported and organized by Italian fashion organizations. The methodology for this study was to analyze industrial reports, review previous studies and conduct in-depth interviews with 23 industry experts in Italy, Korea and LA. The results indicated that the most prominent factor in the Italian fashion industry was the fashion cluster, which is a strong and organic network of diverse fashion related areas No matter the size of the enterprise, firms can get practical, prompt and efficient support from diverse associations. The network operated by the associations provides strong support to each firm by organizing collections and exhibitions, and providing promotional activities. Showrooms and agents are another supportive "gate keeper", directly related to an enterprise's sales. However, Korean fashion firms did not have enough information or knowledge for foreign exhibitions, nor did they make aggressive promotional efforts in the global market. Despite the many fashion-related associations exist in Korea, their programs are too focused on visible accomplishments and are too oriented on "big company" and "big voice", rather than many "small firms". In conclusion, the Korean fashion industry-particularly the fashion industry in Seoul-has strong potential to become the center of the global fashion market in the future. However, the fashion support system that can act as the channel to promote firms and to meet global buyers needs to be supplemented. To feasibly create this system, government or industry associations should develop a strong and generous support system and network, and they must recognize the need for small firms to exist.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.30-45
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• 2015

This study summarizes the dissemination aspects of liturgical vestments in Korea, and organizes the value and meanings of these disseminations as it appeared in the history of costumes by carrying out an empirical analysis on the relics of liturgical vestments since the modern times. It also examines its design characteristics as well. Liturgical vestments have symbolic meaning for the purpose and solar term of ceremonial occasions and it also functions as a way to differentiate the position and duty of the clergy. Liturgical vestments developed on the basis of ancient Greek-Roman costumes and transformed each situation and social trend of the age. Korean liturgical vestments started with their traditional costumes, in 1887, it were changed into French(western) style with freedom of religious. After the secondary Vatican Council held in 1962, various regulations were changed to spread the Catholic doctrines and ideology. This study conducted an empirical analysis and design consideration on the 28 relics of modern liturgical vestments on the basis of the foregoing standard and concept. As a result of analysis, relics were investigated as research materials worn by Bishops after 1960s. And design elements are that the relics used materials and ornament of Hanbok with flower patterns and decoration such as letter patterns including 壽(life) 福(luck) 喜(pleasure) as well as Chrysanthemum and Mancaowen design. These transition reflected by amend regulation of Vatican Council II. Accordingly, this data has been confirmed to be important for the history of costumes as it informs what process of changes liturgical vestments spread in Korea went through before they are worn as current appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.29-47
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• 1995

Today, we live in the fastly changing society, rapidly developing scientific civilization and repeatly confusing political culture. Therefore, man persuits the emotional rest in "eros" and sympathizes with eroticism. Such an eroticism represents too much in art and costume all over the world. the purpose of this study is to classify the ex-pressive style of eroticism which is the feature of the costume in the first year of 1990's and to analyze its expression meaning. This study will be a basic data of new design development and help predict the costume in the latter half of the yeat. The method of this study was performed by using the literature related to the eroticism and the study of preceeding researchers. To analyze the costume style the its implied meaning being used to express the eroticism of 1990's, the magazines(Elle, Vogue, WWD, Collections etc) and the literatures related to fashion were used. The styles and meaning of eroticism expressed eroticism by using the minimal design which exposes wholly or partly by using a transparent vinyl and a see-through clothing. The sexy style arose from the expression of social rebellion and the exposure of suppressive sex as a psychological repulsion against the older generation. 2) Deshabille style : This style is the conver-sion to the outer garment of an underwear. The excessive exposure which just concerns the inti-mate parts of the body by using the thin cloth or lace for an underwear. This style can be recognized as the beauty destruction and ugly 3) Glamour style : The style is made up of the high-grade cloth such as silk and velvet and expresses the bodily beauty. This style falls into a rebellious culture and comes from the inten-tional expression to escape the modern life which is straight and hard. 4) metallic style : This style uses variously the new material such as vinyl-coating, enamel and represents the eroticism through the original expressions.pressions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.43-51
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• 2007

This study analyzed the knit wear trend, which has gained attention as a sensuous and luxury item, through collection magazines, and used the technique of hand-knit to produce and present the knit wear that was designed based on the study results. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to raise awareness of the expansion of hand knit's new expression techniques and expression areas and to verify its possibility as a higher value-added product. The trends of hand-knit wear resulted from the analysis of collections divided into the following four groups, and the knit designs were also grouped accordingly: First was "The design using object." The trend survey showed the results that the form of drops or flowers was often used as a factor of object. Accordingly, as for the study design, the drop-knitting technique, which is one of the pattern knitting techniques, was used to present a design that employed drops as the object. Second was "The design matched with woven material." It is a way to emphasize aesthetic formativeness and at the same time to activate the area of knit design by matching woven material, which is different from knit in texture, with knit. This study presented a design that tried to combine knit texture and woven material by connecting denim material with various textures and colors. Third was "The design to express see-through." A sense of showing through knit wear was expressed through changes in the type of thread or knitting technique. In this study, the sense of see-through was expressed using piano wires and wool threads and through changes in the thickness of needle. Fourth was "The design to emphasize coloring." It was analyzed that regarding the production of hand knit, the method of coloring expression was to express points, lines and sides or to create harmony by changing the material's color or texture to show particular objects or shapes. In this study, a jacket was designed using the method to express points, lines and sides by changing the material's color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.39-49
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• 2011

The presented study was designed to investigate the attribution of the visual perception of decorating techniques that have often been witnessed in the realm of modern fashion since 2006. The form is more impressive, more suitable to convey a message and, most of all, more memorable. In this study, attempts were made to categorize and create an order of prioritization among components such as surrounding, pattern (closure), space arrangement, area, overlapping, and community (proximity) surrounding that comprise the place and arrangement of decorating techniques in modern fashion. The results were as follow: First, centered decorating technique surrounded by other techniques is prioritized. Second, the more standardized the clothing with patterns, the more it was noticed. Third, the space arrangement also had an impact on prioritization in the following order: center of the sight, horizon, vertical, and diagonal in relation to the central axis. Fourth, concentrated area attracted more attention. Fifth, when overlapped, what is placed in the front became the center of recognition. Sixth, the technique that formed a community was more recognized. Therefore, the study suggests that as the decorating technique is gaining more significance, these findings would help to find the most effective method to utilize an acute visual stimulus to apply for a technique and maximize its aesthetic effects.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.11-25
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• 2015

This study analyzed features in contemporary men's collection to provide data for characteristics of kitsch in men's collection. The research method was to see background of the concept of kitsch through the domestic and international publications, the Internet, paper. Five designers' collections that have characteristics of kitsch were selected. The range of collection is from the 2000 S/S to 2011 F/W in Men's collection. The results are as follows: kitsch characteristics could be classified by amusements, inappropriateness, satire. First, exaggerative amusements in men's collection appeared exaggerated form, large size, which is ridiculous at the same time. Infantile amusements represents the image of a pure concentric matching accessories such as toys to the children express. sensual amusements reveals the sexual instincts and desires and people can feel satisfaction through sensual amusements. Second, inappropriateness is characteristic of kitsch to escape from normal life. Clothing does not fit the body and destroyed the design or design of this feature appears. It looks clumsy and strange. Inappropriateness characteristic in men's collection can be divided into inadequate performance and sexual inappropriateness. Third, satire can be divided into resistant satire, imitative satire, and popular satire. Resistance satire with anti-social tendencies through their clothing is achieved by expressing their needs. It was affected by sub-culture like Hippie or Punk. Imitative satire is to imitate other culture, customs and race. It is to resolve complaints through the consumption of things in disparities of wealth and materialism in the society. Popular satire is to express emotions that are free using materials that can recycling like can, bottle or paper.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.741-756
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• 2017

The natural resources of Jeju are recognized as the new regional image of that clean island. Reflecting these trends, this study is initiated to develop a textile design with the motive of persimmon, a natural resource of Jeju, and to apply it to infant's and children's clothes. Its purpose is to highlight the image of persimmon, a traditional dye, as a regional signature for Jeju. Product development procedure included, understanding the use of persimmon for fashion products, analyzing Infants' and Children's designer collections over the last three seasons (focused on 2014S/S, 2015S/S, and 2016S/S), and surveying the Children's Clothes market for persimmon dyeing in Jeju. The conclusion was that, the natural resources of Jeju are highly valuable, and should be applied to textile design and apparel products for children. Utilizing Jeju persimmon was actively studied, but, the market for the Jeju persimmon natural - dyeing products is extremely limited. Moreover, the apparel products for infants and children represent old-fashioned styles, despite their higher prices. Therefore, using the formative characteristics of persimmon for each theme was suggested for development of patterns for textile design. Pattern designs were expressed using textured textile screen-printing, embroidery and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ for infants' and children's clothes. In this study, a total of 10 items were prepared as apparel products for infants and children. All items were designed considering mix-and-match, potential, with each other or with regular mass-market products. These results are expected to contribute to highlighting the unique image of Jeju and to help promote fashion culture products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1554-1561
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• 2005

This study aims to analyze modern hairstyle and fashion in the collections in the late 1990s, based on the concepts and characteristics of Minimalism, a buzzword of the art field in the 1960s. This study used qualitative research method, in other words, presenting an analysis framework by studying domestic and foreign books and dissertations on Minimalism and then applying the Internet or visual image to the analysis framework. The result indicates that Minimalism design in modem hairstyle and fashion has four characteristics: simplicity, unity, repetition and spatiality.