• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.728-738
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• 2006

As movies and dramas which show traditional clothes and fusion clothes are getting popular these days, lot of people are paying attention to these dress and ornaments. And as for the domestic collections which seem to reflect this trend, various fusion style clothes are getting widely adopted by people. Therefore, this study analyzed and considered the clothes designs when the country started to open itself to other countries, by selecting a movie titled "YMCA baseball team", a movie to ascertain vigorous historical verification, and by conducting the prior study and using the DVD capture program. This study is meaningful in that based on the comparison study on the costumes, it clarifies the degree of costumes(clothes) acceptance at the point of nation's opening to other countries, which is the source of fusion style, and further shed light on the role that the movie costumes will play. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, through the theoretical background it can be known that when the country opened itself to outside world the dress and ornaments of the time was adopted in a top-down way, namely, first adopted by the royal family and the upper class, which could have easy access to the western civilization and institutions, and then the low class later. Second, in the movie titled 'YMCA baseball team' the costumes were designed through the strict and thorough historic verification, and it can be confirmed that various dress and ornaments adopted at the time of nation's opening to the outside world centered around the clothes design for new women. Third, 'YMCA baseball team is evaluated as a movie that reproduces that time well and as a media that provides an effective clue to the dress and ornaments adopted by the public when the country opened itself to the outside world.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.103-113
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• 2011

The purpose of the study was to examine formative features of embroidered norigae in form, color, pattern and expressive technique through positive analysis of relics and various of collections of work and to consider expressive features of embroidered norigae. The results of the study were as follows. First, embroidered norigae has handcrafted decoration. it was made by being sewed for women longing for their family's happiness. Embroidered norigae is a dress worn by women that is hung on a coat string or the waist part of a skirt. Second, it is eco-environmental. Embroidered norigae applied things seen in nature such as flowers, butterflies and bees to its pattern. Third, it has practicality. Embroidered norigae has high practical value besides a decorative function. Needle case norigae and incense case norigae provide functions in accordance with women's wisdom and skill as well as practicality. Fourth, it is praying for good luck. Women embroidered patterns symbolizing their desires in life such as their family's happiness, wealth, many sons and a long life. Fifth, it has balance and harmony. The knot of embroidered norigae has a perfect symmetry in the front/back part and in the right/left part. And the main body and tassel are symetrical in the right/left part, which gives stability and comfortableness. Embroidered norigae is classified into knot, main body and decorative part in its form. The three kinds express their unique beauty by being harmonized together. Finally, it has a property of melody. Movement of the tassel has a property of melody shaken by the wind and movement of its wearer.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.52-68
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to be inquired inner contemplation of the tattoo expressed in the modern costumes. For this study, related documentaries and pictures or photos were analyzed in terms of the theretical background for the history of tattoo, the relation between tattoo and the modern western costumes. The primary source of pictures or photos are Vogue, Collections, Collezioni, Harper\`s Bazaar, Modain, Model et Mode etc. The human\`s needs of body decoration had constantly pursued on the body and costumes from the first until lately. Especially in the recents, as the tattoo is implicated a dynamic and charming method of all kinds of body decoration, it\`s used a motive of modern western costumes. The original tattoo means a picture, word etc. that was put permanently onto their skin using a needle and coloring matter. But, these days tattoo is an expression of street style for something new in the subculture. The results were as a follows : The inner meaning of tattoo represented in the modern costumes was classified into two categories. First, the tattooing was a very important factor to complete fashion design through the history of modern costumes, and also the elaborate tattoo of the body was displayed unrestricted formativeness as the skinhead\`s tattoo, raceless\`s ambiguity of street style and artistic decoration, because that can be faded easily. Second, Tattoo Look was expressed as tattoo prints of the see-through, elastic textiles in the modern costumes. That is, the tattoo enhanced the effect of dramatic atmosphere other formative arts as well as the modern costumes by Tattoo Look. Similarity, Tattoo Look could be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness by the influence of the subculture. Accordingly, in the end of a this century, many experimental designers had applied tattoo to modern costumes. So this study will stand as an important clue to foresee the future costume\`s style and change.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1050-1063
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• 2008

A movie is a fiction made on a basis of an author's and a writer's imagination, but all sorts of properties mixed with each other and most realistically expresses the era which becomes the background of a movie and acts as a carrier that connects designers with consumers. Thus, this study was carried out to review how the fashion products that designer's intention and commercial value added are expressed in collections by comparing and analysing the costumes in the movie "The Great Gatsby" that described the life of America's upper-class in 1920s and the 04 S/S Y&Kei collection which were proceeding after getting inspiration from this movie. For this, literature materials were inspected in order to make a theoretical review on social and cultural background and costumes history background in 1920s and the photo materials on movie costume were collected and analysed using DVD video captures, as well as the photo materials on 04 S/S Y&Kei were collected and analyzed through the institute providing domestic fashion information. The following conclusion was deduced through this study. First, in 1920s which becomes the background of this study, the slim shape of Flapper which looks like a young and boy became an ideal figure condition and the straight silhouette with low waist line and the short skirt that rose to knee was popular. Second, as a result of analysing movie costume by classifying it in silhouette, colors, and materials, straight silhouette of low waistline with a near colored - tone seen in the pastel series, including white, beige, pink, and gray was mainly constituted and the metal colors like silver and gold were used. As a material, chiffon, satin, velvet, flower patterned prints, and beads were used, which represented luxurious life of women in the upper classes. Third, as a result of comparing and analysing, it turned out that there was a similarity. However, in dress collection for a heroine, some dissimilarity differentiated from a movie costumes was found out in that the dresses in collection expressed moderate beauty and modernism and elegant beauty at the same time by matching a variety of materials and using black color.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.13
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• pp.73-95
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• 2012

In terms of element and process, art today has already been fully systemized, yet tends to become even more systemized. All phases of creation and exhibition, appreciation and education, promotion and marketing are planned, adjusted, and decided within the order of a globalized, networked system. Each phase is executed, depending on the system of management and control and diverse means corresponding to the system. From the step of education, artists are guided to determine their styles and not be motivated by their desire to become star artists or running counter to mainstream tendency and fashion. In the process of planning an exhibition, the level of artist awareness is considered more significant than work quality. It is impossible to avoid such systems and institutions today. No one can escape or be freed from the influence of such system. This discussion addresses a serious distortion in the selection system as part of the system connotatively called "art museum system," especially to evaluate artistic achievement and aesthetic quality. Called "studio system" or "art star system," the system distinguishes successful minority from failed absolute majority and justifies the results, deciding discriminative compensations. The discussion begins from work by Hunter Jonakin and Dan Perjovschi. The key point of this discussion is not their art worlds but the shared truth referred by the two as the collusive "art market" and "art star system." Through works based on their experiences, the two artists refer to these systems which restrict and confine them. Jonakin's Jeff Koons Must Die! is avideo game conveying a critical comment on authoritative operation of the museum system and star system. In this work, participants, whether viewer or artist, are destined to lose: the game is unwinnable. Players take the role of a person locked in a museum where artist Jeff Koons' retrospective is held. The player can either look around and quietly observe the works, which causes a game-over, or he can blow the classical paintings to pieces and cause the artist Koons to come out and reprimand the player, also resulting in a game-over. Like Jonakin, Dan Perjovschi's some drawings also focuses on the status of the artist shrunken by the system. Most artists are ruined in a process of competition to survive within the museum system. As John Burger properly pointed out, out of the art systems today, public collections (art museums) and private collections have become "something unbearable." The system justifies the selection system of art stars and its frame of reference, disregarding the problem of producing numerable victims in its process. What should be underlined above all else is that the present selection system seriously shrinks art's creative function and its function of generating meaning. In this situation, art might fall to the level of entertainment, accessible to more people and compromising with popularity. This discussion is based on assumption and consciousness on the matter that this situation might cause catastrophic results for not only explicit victims of the system but also winners, or ones defined as winners. The system of art is probably possible only by desire or distortion stemmed from such desire. The system can be flourished only under the economic system of avarice: quantitatively expanding economy, abundant style, resort economy in Venice and Miami, and luxurious shopping malls with up-to-date facilities. The catastrophe here is ongoing, not a sudden emergence, and dynamic, leading the system itself to a devastating end.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.129-143
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• 2002

Patterns are something that comes out of necessity in human life, which is closely associated with it. Thus come the SFAA (Seoul Fashion Artists Association) collection which uses patterns varying in form, color, way of expression and material. For this research, I first categorized the patterns the SFAA designers used into: natural patterns, symmetric patterns, traditional patterns, stripe, plaid, dot and abstract patterns. As a result of the process. the designers most favored the natural patterns and symmetric patterns, and dot patterns were rarely used. The designer who most favored patterns in general was Sul Yun-hyoung, and the designer Kim Chul-ung rarely favored the surface effect. The seven kinds of patterns naturally differ according to the designer. as Park Hang-chi liked to use the plaid patterns along with yam dyeing material, whereas Jin Teok expressed stripe patterns using the yarn dyeing fabric. Natural patters were presented in a bizarre way with Lie Sang-bong. who took the motives appearing in Eastern ceramic and paintings into the clothes, using the print method. The symmetric patterns, which the SFAA designers most preferred. was used evenly among designers like Chang Kwang-hyo, Gee Choon-hee. Rubina, and Haneza. In contrast. Lie Sang-bong. who used abstract patterns that do not give out meaning of the actual form of the pattern. rarely used symmetric patterns. The dot patterns were most often used by Park Youn-soo. and traditional patterns were overwhelmingly chosen by Sul Yun-hyoung. Secondly. in expressing the colors, SFAA designers were much more likely to choose achromatic colors. not choosing to show off colors. This is especially apparent in works by Haneza and Lie Sang-bong. In the SFAA collections, numerous methods were used to create. For instance, Sul Yun-hyoung used the oriental embroidery method. and Rubina and Lie Sang-bong used many unique dying methods. In terms of materials, Sul Yun-hyoung preferred silk. due to her methods, and Lie Sang-bong was one of the designers that used a number of different materials such as vinyl. Jacques Mueclier of the Paris Clothes Association in France, who was invited to SFAA collection once, remarked. "While the choice of material and the actual sewing done were excellent, there lacked much difference among the designers, as most of them choose flowing silhouette In terms of composition," which is all too correct. In addition, there were cases in the collection where the inherent feelings of cultural artifacts was expressed without alteration. Summing up, the research aimed to analyze the surface expression methods, forms and color of SFAA designs. and I hope that it can open up ways for new projects in the future.he future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.62-77
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze color characteristics centered by women's suit styles that represent masculinity remarkably. Through this, it figures out color's type and continuance availability as a representing tool to express masculinity to provide useful color information which can be applied effectively to various color planning. For this research, related images were collected among women's pants suits appeared in $2004{\sim}2006's$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection F/W that are most similar to modern man's suit. Among them, the study analyzes 319 pictures where the features of masculinity were represented effectively. The referred color values were earned by converting $L^*a^*b^*$ values measured through the color extracting tool of Computer program (Adobe Photoshop CS) and color tone characteristic were analyzed by classifying 12 color PCCS and 5 achromatic colors. The result of the study are as follows: First, based on standard of color hue and tone, in terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y were frequently shown up but G, BG series were not found much after analyzing overall women's pants suit color characteristics shown in $2004{\sim}2006$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection. Second, the color analysis about 3years of $2004{\sim}2006$ tells that achromatic colors have been most widely used in every year. In terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y series were appeared most popular and G, BG classes weren't appeared frequently. In addition, once looking at yearly color tone distribution trend, like overall color tone distribution result, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were highly used as sequential and b, v, dp, sf, ItGy series show low distribution level. And such a distribution level of low and high in frequency has been showed continuously as a similar style. Accordingly, through the study, as a tool to express masculinity in women's suit, achromatic colors like black and white series and PB, YR, Y series color were investigated as most popular uses. And as color tones, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were used frequently.

• Asia Marketing Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.127-156
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• 2012

A lot of interest in the baby-boomer generation, those who were born after World War II, has emerged since their retirement has been accelerated. The retirement of baby-boomers has caused many health, public welfare, social policy and family relationship problems. However, their increased purchasing power has made them more attractive consumers than any other generation, and they have become a fascinating niche market in the depressed economy. This research selected middle-class women of the baby-boomer generation who have had powerful effects on society and have emerged as an attractive niche market, and attempted to understand their lives intensively. Based on research activities, the purpose of this research is to identify baby-boomer generation middle-aged women's life values. Qualitative research methodology was used to achieve research objectives, and this research aimed to suggest marketing implications to connected industries based on the research results. The research objectives are as follows. 1. understanding the lives of baby-boomer middle-class women who have powerful effects on socio-economic phenomena 2. identifying the life values of baby-boomer middle-class women 3. generating marketing implications based on an understanding of baby-boomer middle-class women's lives and life values This research conducted FGIs(focus group interviews), one of the qualitative research methodologies, to figure out baby-boomer middle-class women's life values intensively and selected 10 women living in Seoul for data collection. The qualitative data of collected FGIs were analyzed with spiral data analysis methodology proposed by Creswell(2007). The most effective factors to influence these middle-class women's lives powerfully were 'time' and 'independence'. Their consciousness of the importance of using time affects their life pattern generally, and their independence also impacts greatly on the way they exploit time and on their diverse relationships. They maximized their self-realization and showed long-term partnership with their surrounding circumstances because of those effective factors. Baby-boomer middle-class women's self-realization was divided into two areas. One was their outside activities and another was perfect management of their physical appearance and home interior. Like the results of this research, their need for social entrance will be reinforced more strongly since their internal and external activities aim for the achievement of self-realization. In addition, this research suggests that baby-boomer middle-class women's activities are connected with their management of their physical appearance and home interior decorations, and that such management is caused not only by a simple interest in fashion and beauty but also a profound desire for self-realization. On account of their consciousness, which is different from other generations, Korean baby-boomer middle-class women are able to maintain positive partnerships with their surrounding circumstances; however, they also show ambivalent emotions to retain effective partnerships. To overcome those stressful situations, they make greater efforts to keep up their health and youth, and also engage in diverse activities to maintain their mental health. Finally, they generate positive attitudes toward their economic situation and extra time to develop self-realization and pursue happy, youthful and healthy lives. Based on those results, this study suggests the following implications. First, industries targeting the baby-boomer generation should develop innovative products and services which help the baby-boomer generation maximize their efficiency of time since time is one of the most important factors powerfully impacting the baby-boomer generation. They will engage in various activities to fill up their extra time and consume helpful products and services. Second, such industries should supply the baby-boomer generation with opportunities which propose new ways of self-realization since this generation shows a great desire for self-realization because of their self-efficacy. With customized strategies of satisfying their needs, the baby-boomer generation would discover opportunities to utilize their abilities, relationships and aesthetic senses, and industries would develop a niche market. Third, market segmentations which target the baby-boomer generation's desire to maintain their physical appearance and home interior should be executed since such activities are the main strategies to develop this generation's self-realization. The baby-boomer generation's desire to study those areas would be expanded, and those education systems should produce innovative products and services targeting the baby-boomer generation. This implication also offers to government officials new policies related with the baby-boomer generation. This exploratory study utilized qualitative research methodology to understand baby-boomer middle-class women's lives, and proposed propositions and limitations for further researches. As for the limitations, first, it is hard to generalize the research results so that they may apply to all areas and economic classes of the baby-boomer generation since this research selected only 10 women living in Seoul for the data collection process. To overcome this limitation, extended data collections of subjects from diverse regions and economic classes should be designed. Second, quantitative research should be conducted to supplement the findings with validities. Third, this research focused on only general ideas of the baby-boomer generation's lives since the range of this study was focused on their overall lives. Therefore, intensive research related to specific areas of their lives should be conducted.