• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.70-80
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.66-82
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.159-168
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to identify and to compare the fashion show effectiveness between consumers and sponsors. The data were analyzed by using frequency, factor analysis, cross-tab, t-test and Kruskal Wallis with utilizing SPSS for Windows. The results of this study were as follow: 1. There was a favorable attitude towards fashion show itself but negative attitude towards possibility of purchasing clothes through fashion show. 2. Possibility of purchasing clothes through fashion show was very rare. Only 7.3% of consumers showed the experience of purchasing clothes through the show. 3. There were significant differences in the perception of watching fashion show purpose between consumers and sponsors. Consumers considered fashion show as more entertaining factor but sponsors considered show as more informative and sales promotion factor. 4. There was different recognition about purpose of having fashion show between consumers and sponsors. Sponsors utilized fashion show for the sales promotion medium but consumers recognized the fashion show as publicity for the company. 5. Sponsors showed more favorable attitude towards fashion show than consumers group.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.237-256
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• 1997

Women's clothes which represent feminity was one of the female oppression polices in the society of phallocentric sexual order. Many women were eager to good-looking as a comouflage for inferiority of their own sex which was the theory of fashion of Freud. He insist that it's the driving force for women fashion. Thight-lacing corset high heel and foot-binding which was made for men's pleasure limited women's social activity and unfortunately recycled. Such clothes or shoes makes women belong to men's power but its also one of the self controls for women. The materialization and sex objects of women was due to fashion which encouraged by men. Many facts of fetish gradually emerged I fashion and fetishism itself is no more than sexual perversion or low class sex culture. This paper is focused on relationship between fetishism and fashion which approaching based the feminism. We investigated how human ambivalence which persuit both modesty and fetishism is manifested in clothes. We also compared modern fetish fashion with corset and shoes which are sterotypes of classic fetishism

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.135-147
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to analyze clothes-wearing of Chinese female university students in Hangzhou. By random sampling, a total of 183 Chinese female students in Hangzhou aged between 17 and 24 were used into data analysis from November 20, 2010 to January 20, 2011. The questionnaires consisted of 36 questions in total. The results were as follows : According to the result of the purpose of wearing clothes in winter, it was found that many female students wore clothes for a "protection purpose" or "ornamental purpose" in winter. As for the question about whether or not underwear was worn in winter, Chinese students answered that more upper underwear was worn than lower underwear. As for the question about the types of outer garments, Chinese students answered that they wore 3-layered upper garments in winter most. The upper garments worn in winter preferred most was long coat(68.3%). In the survey on the types of accessories, More Chinese students wore mufflers and gloves while less students wore hats and earmuffs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.55-70
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to investigate purchasing behaviors of summer clothes using cooling textiles and clothing design preference in summer season. The subjects were 623 married women aged from 30s to 60s. The research method was a survey and the measuring instruments consisted of purchasing behaviors of summer clothes using cooling textiles, clothing design preference in summer season, and subjects' demographics attributions. The data were analyzed by frequency analysis, multiple response analysis, cross tabs analysis, and $x^2$ test, using SPSS statistical program. The results were as follows. First, important clothing selection criteria were design, price, and textiles. The main items using cooling textiles that female consumers purchased were T-shirts, pants, and outdoor & sportswear. Main information sources of summer clothes using cooling textiles were internet and store display, and purchasing places were fashion outlet, internet, brand store, and department store. Second, female consumers most preferred comfortable and casual style. They mainly preferred white and blue color, pastel and pale tone, plain pattern, and cotton and functional materials in summer season. Third, there were many important differences among 4 age groups on purchasing behaviors of summer clothes using cooling textiles and design preference in summer season.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.118-135
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• 2015

This study probed into the fashion of modern girls between the 1920's and the 1930's who led the mentality and fashion of women as the progenitor of the alpha girl in Korea. For this, the fashion of actual people who received attention as modern girls in various occupations and that of modern girl heroines reinterpreted in films were examined. Methods included the theoretical study based on fashion related newspaper articles at the time, specialized publications, advance researches, and internet data and the empirical study that involved contents analysis centering on visual data. The Western women's fashion between the 1920's-1930's was dominated by the garçonne look to promote women's entry into society and competition against men and the practical and mature long and slim look due to the influence of economic recess. Korean people also adapted Western clothes following Western fashion while also modified the traditional clothes and wore modified Korean clothes. The fashion of 5 actual modern girls of Korea and that of 3 film heroines were examined. The fashion of actual people most well represented the fashion trends at the time and that they used fashion as the means to express their mentality and their artistic propensity and professionalism were expressed through fashion. On the other hand, the fashion of film heroines substantially expressed various occupations of the characters in the film and reflected trendy clothes and cosmetics, and it showed sexy and romantic fashion trend due to the influence of modern trends and reinterpretations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.42-58
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• 2009

This study researches previous aesthetic categories and organizes new one which is applied to fashion design. With the frame of the new aesthetic category, a survey about aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic enjoyment are conducted. Also, this study discusses about the variety of the aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic enjoyment which are arisen from peculiarity of fashion and the necessity of the systemized criticizing theory. Through the survey of aesthetic consciousness about fashion designer's clothes, there are possibilities of varieties in visions and critics about fashion works. But it is necessary to read in right way about kunstwollen and symbolic meaning of designer. In order to read aesthetic consciousness inside of a fashion designer's works properly, the interpretation method which follows in systematized phases such as iconology and semiology is necessary. Contemplation for the 'clothes' which is a part of an art Is not just simply see the object and judge subjectively but examine the factors which have influenced to the formation, kunstwollen, and symbolic meaning. Also, the process and the attitude which enjoy the aesthetic value have to be analyzed and criticized which based on systemized interpretation frame. The 'Clothes' is one artistic object which expresses kunstwollen of fashion designer and he or she puts in a sentiment and an ideology into the clothes and which reflects the present society and effects to the descendant.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.235-248
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• 2008

This study is on the characteristics of gloves in the modern fashion and has the purpose to review the style and the feature of gloves coordinated with clothes variously. The study started firstly with reviewing the related literature for the information of the origin, the process of development and the sort of gloves and then verified the results with photographs in the fashion magazines and collections at home and abroad since 1990s. The first characteristic is utility. Lining and covered materials use the materials excellent for keeping warm as the original purpose of wearing gloves is to protect hands against cold weather. It is demonstrated in the fashion collections that coordinating sieves appeals more often in fall-winter season than in spring-summer season. The second is sense of fashion. Gloves are normally coordinated with same materials and colors of clothes. But, gloves could create infinite varieties, make sufficient images through stressing splendid colors on achromatic colored clothes, shaping unique styles, transforming with various materials and ornaments. The last is sense of deconstruction. Gloves are transformed as a sort of clothes beyond the original use. Gloves are coordinated transcending the conventional thoughts, which makes it possible that Stoves appear in summer season, not in winter. Coordinating gloves appears free and unique through atypical formation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.47-57
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• 2011

This study is aimed at presenting the information on tailor-made clothes products which could positively relieve the psychological anxiety of the aged and enhance their living independence, and also at the development of clothes designs which could help them enjoy their healthy and activities. Based on the survey, the study conducted the research and analysis on the wearing practices, problems, and improvements for the clothes for the aged and found out their favorite clothes designs and colors. Based on the findings, the clothes models were recruited that reflect the physical features of silver-generation women and assist them with their joint protection. Moreover, the emphases were placed on the convenience of dressing or undressing, and the current fashion of development of clothes. The number of the clothes models developed were 11 for one pants suit, two skirt suits, one knit wear, one training wear, and one bolero.