• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.979-986
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, and the hand of soybean/cotton blended fabric after dyeing with natural and synthetic dyes. Soybean/cotton blended fabrics dyed with extracted solution from turmeric, sappan wood, gardenia and synthetic dyes(weak-acid dyes, reactive dyes, direct dyes). The hand value of soybean/cotton blended fabrics dyed with 6 different dyes was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with sappan wood extracts was the highest. 2. The color fastness of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with reactive dyes was excellent. The fastness to the light of the same fabric was much better than the other fabrics. 3. Linearity of load-extension and tensile energy of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with sappan wood extracts showed very high. Shear stiffness of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes was much higher than that of fabric of dyed with reactive dyes. Bending property of the fabrics dyed with natural colorants(sappan wood, gardenia) showed very high, but that the fabric dyed with reactive dyes was very poor. 4. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness of the fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes showed the highest. Fullness and softness of the fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes showed very low.

• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.117-125
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• 2023

In the development of clothing design through virtual simulation, it is essential to minimize the differences between the virtual and the real world as much as possible. The most critical task to enhance the similarity between virtual and real garments is to find simulation parameters that can closely emulate the physical properties of the actual fabric in use. The simulation parameter optimization process requires manual tuning by experts, demanding high expertise and a significant amount of time. Especially, considerable time is consumed in repeatedly running simulations to check the results of applying the tuned simulation parameters. Recently, to tackle this issue, artificial neural network learning models have been proposed that swiftly estimate the results of drape test simulations, which are predominantly used for parameter tuning. In these earlier studies, relatively simple linear stiffness models were used, and instead of estimating the entirety of the drape mesh, they estimated only a portion of the mesh and interpolated the rest. However, there is still a scarcity of research on non-linear stiffness models, which are commonly used in actual garment design. In this paper, we propose a learning model for estimating the results of drape simulations for non-linear stiffness models. Our learning model estimates the full high-resolution mesh model of drape. To validate the performance of the proposed method, experiments were conducted using three different drape test methods, demonstrating high accuracy in estimation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.84-100
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• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2001

Textile fabrication affected by consumer and selected by fashion designer. The textile fabrication has been made not only by introducing the newly developed fiber but also by modifying the existing textile materials to impart sensibility to them. Consumers choose but to their sensibility of textile material and fashion trend. On purpose in this research is find out have influence on textile image. Wool fabrics have been in use from early age in northern Europe. Recognition of the role of the morphological structure, surface properties, chemical composition, acid-base characteristics in the chemical treatment of wool led to quantum advances in the fields of setting, shrink-resisting, chemical modification, and internal fiber cross-linking. Mechanical finishing to develop the handle, drape, and surface characteristics of the fabric is at least as important as chemical or wet finishing. Result showed that to have variety sensibility and trend theme in wool fabrics are tweed, venetian, serge, gabardine and melton.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.52-67
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• 1999

A Study on the Drapery Presented in Costume The purpose of this study is to find esthetic characteristic of a drapery costume throughout Greece costume and modern fashion. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceed. And photos of the drapery costume were analyzed. Drape is the hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment is an important quality to consider indesigning. Fabric falling in folds in the garment as seen on statues of ancient Greece ; most outstanding modern versions made by designer Gres and Vionnet. Greek costume was in drapery types mostly and a feature created the vest esthetic effert on simplicity with ornament of drapery. Grecian were expressed pure beauty and natural beauty throughout their drapery costume. Madame Gres is widely considered one of the most talented greece for inspiration of the couture, ranked by many with Vionnet. They shows in their mastery of Greek draping -el-egance and simplicity- And also, they always implicity emphasized the relationship between clothing and the female body. Therefore drapery costume admired beauty of pure human body Clothing is expressed which wanted to get the nature and human, search for the losed nature of modern men. In conclusion, the characteristic of drapery costume from ancient greece to modern, timeless concerned human\`s lives and recurring humanity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.36-51
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• 2012

Quilting, a technique to join two or more layers of fabrics, has long been used in the textile and fashion sectors. To evaluate dimensional effect of quilting that changes according to the characteristics of fabrics, 3D scanning method is employed in this study. Goal of this study is to interpret how fabric's composition, stiffness, thickness, and weight affect the appearance when quilted fabrics are used in a garment. Surface reconstruction method based on 3D scanning is used as a research method to evaluate the changing appearance depending on the material properties quantitatively with the quilting method. Besides, exemplary virtual clothing is realized through a virtual quilting method in 3D digital clothing system based on the properties of fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.704-717
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• 2015

In modern fashion fabrics became an important element that leads the current of fashion beyond materials. Also, it has a creative role that reflects emotional and visual aspects, and it is considered as a mega trend that will lead the $21^{st}$ century fashion industry. The value of fashion products is affected not only by the style and design but also the sensuous properties like color, pattern, texture, and drape of fabrics. Therefore, in this study, characteristics of fabric trend between 2007 S/S and 2010 S/S will be analyzed focused on Premiere Vision, which influenced many Korean fashion trend information companies, while looking into the fabric trends shown in the world's top four collections-Paris, Milan, London, and New York-and Seoul collection, and comparing and analyzing the acceptance level of those. Fashion fabric is an important part in fashion design and change with social environment and value, its considered that the role and importance of subject matters increases in changing fashion design toward globalization by meeting various personality which is diversified more and more. It is to provide specific and practical data to be used for the Korean fashion industry, which can be used as useful information for future fabric researchers and people in the fashion industry for integrated study of fashion design and fashion fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.4 s.36
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• pp.262-273
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to investigate the softening effect of cellulase-treated cotton fabric and the damage on the fabric which is accompanied by the treatemnt. Cotton fabric is treated with cellulase under various concentrations and time, and the weight loss, hand values (by KES), surface characteristics, moisture regain, tensile strength, copper number and intrinsic viscosity of the treated samples and untreated samples have been compared. The results are as follows: 1. The weight loss of cotton fabric increased as the concentration of cellulase and the treating time increased. 2. The enzyme treatment had little effect on the stiffness of the treated samples but anti- drape stiffness decreased for the treated samples. Fullness and softness of the treated samples increased and crispness decreased with the lowest level reaching after two hours of the treatment for all concentrations. Scrooping feeling of the treated samples increased and flexibility with soft feeling increased as the treating time and the concentration of cellulase increased. 3. Moisture regain of the samples decreased as the treating time and the concentration of the enzyme increased and the treated fabric showed cracks on the fiber surface, and much surface fibers on the fabric have been removed after the treatment. 4. Tensile strength of the samples decreased as the treating time and as the concentration of cellulase increased, and the copper number increased while the intrinsic viscosity decreased as the treating time increased, but cellulase concentration had a little effect.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.115-126
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• 2005

Environmentally and human compatible chitosan were pretreated on cotton fabrics which were then dyed with 100% persimmon juice. The chitosan concentration was 1% and the chitosan types were high molecular weight chitosan (1980cps), low molecular weight chitosan (18첸), chitosan oligomer and water soluble chitosan. The properties of the fabric surfaces, the dyeabilities, the color fastnesses, the antibacterial activities, the strengths, the elongations and the drape stiffnesses were evaluated. The properties of the chitosanpretreated, persimmon juice-dyed cotton fabrics (CLP) were compared to those of the untreated (CN), chitosan treated (CL) and persimmon juice-dyed fabrics (CP). The results were as follows. The fibers extruded from the surface of CN decreased on CP. The air between the fibers within CN were substituted by chitosan solution or persimmon juiceand decreased within CLP according to SEM observations. The effects of chitosan treatment, the chitosan molecular weights and the degrees of deacetylation of chitosan on the dyeabilities of the persimmon juice-dyed cotton fabric were not distinct. The curing after chitosan padding improved the dyeabilities of CLP compare to noncuring. The strengths of CP decreased and those of CL increased, compared to those of CN. The strengths of CLP were greater than those of CP. The elogations of CP and CL were greater than those of CN. The strengths and elongations of CLP were greater than those of CN. The chitosan treatments improved the strengths but not the elongations. The drape stiffnesses of CL, CP and CLP were greater than those of CN. The antibacterial activites of chitosan pretreated, persimmon juice-dyed cotton fabrics against Staphylococcus aureus were increased by more than 98% by persimmon juice.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.46-60
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• 2008

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.