• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.806-821
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• 2000

Each and everything named fashion together with clothes were limited in the boundary of women and men's wear has been slow and narrow in changing speed compared to women's, even there are some differences in accordance time. But maintaining the basic features, men's wear in the latter 20th century has undergone diverse change in the part of materials such as various synthetic fiber, glass, metal, artificial leather and the see-through fabric able to seeing the body wearing the clothes. Therefore, the aim and definition of this study is to present the systematic framework giving help to develop men's wear design newer and more various by considering moulding of materials which existing men's wear could not show up and by grasping material trend of men's clothes in 1990s. The results of the study were summarized as follows : (1) Material containing lustering is categorized as Velvet, Silk, Lustering materials by synthetic fiber and Lustering materials by additional substance. The Velvet generally acknowledged having something to feel womanly image shows the bisexual character coexisting feature of men and women after grafting with men'fashion. The Silk was endowed the role as means of pleasure to express beyond boundary of sex breaking the existing consciousness which men should wear male clothes, not considering differences between men and women. The lustering made by synthetic fiber expressed modern sensitivity aesthetically to the suit. The lustering materials made by additional substance is seen mixed masculine character with womanly character. (2) See-through materials are acknowledged as decadence beauty caused by expanding subjective awareness in beauty. (3) Materials by the sorts of Net is categorized as Lace, Knit The Lace expression seemed to emphases the human liberation of men and women and the humanity from liberation of subjecthood. The Knit can be felt both woman's image and man's image as bisexual image, not raising only one side sex. (4) Elastic materials offered the opportunity to approve exposure in a time when exposure of men's body was not granted ethically. (5) Leather was shown as indication of social status and inferiority and expression of collective resistance against sexual stagnation of men and women.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.125-138
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• 1998

In order to help apparel manufactures and marketers to promote apparel products more efficiently, and aid them in instilling brand names or brand images more distinctively in the minds of target consumers, it is the intent of this study (1) to investigate on the high-school girls brand loyalty and the brand discernment, self image(product image), and the buying behavior of casual wear. The subjects were 532 female high school students selected from the four high school in Seoul. The data were collected by self-admin-istered questionnaires. The data were analyzed by frequency, percentage, T-test, x2-test, and correspondence analysis. (1) 29.1% of the female students were cat-egorized as the brand loyalty group that was smaller than the non-brand loyalty group(70.9%). (2) In identifying the relationship between the demographic factors and the brand loyalty, the monthly household income and the month-ly personnel expenses were statistically significant. Namely, higher household income and the monthly personnel expenses were statistically significant. Namely, higher household income and the monthly personnel expenses there were, higher the brand loyalty was revealed. (3) The power of discernment was statistically significant according to the brand loyalty. That is, the brand loyalty group was more outstanding than latest fashion brands, the high-price brands, and the better-style brands in terms of design, color, and fabric. (4) The self image was also statistically significant according to the brand loyalty, Wher-eas the brand loyalty group preferred the unique, high-quality, sexy, and active self-images, non-brand loylty group revealed to prefer the non-noticeable and feminine self-images. The findings of this study will assist apparel manufactures and marketers in better identifying the target market, and in subsequently adjusting their products, brand image, and promotional activities in order to reach the target market more efficiently.

• 한국전자파학회논문지
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• 제20권10호
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• pp.1071-1076
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• 2009

본 논문에서는 도전사를 이용하여 UHF 대역에서 동작하는 'ㅂ'자 자수 형태의 wearable RFID tag 안테나를 설계하였다. T-정합 형태를 가지는 'ㅂ'자의 자수형 tag 안테나를 다양한 도전사의 특성을 분석하여 전기적 성질이 좋은 200D(데니아)의 도전사로 자수 형태로 의복에 직접 자수를 넣을 수 있도록 설계하였다. 의류 위에 전도성을 가진 도전사를 이용한 태그를 자수해서 넣음으로 해서 의류의 착용할 수 있고 구부러질 수 있으면서 인식이 가능하게 하였다. 도전사의 데니아(denier)별로 제작 가능한 실의 전기적 특성을 측정하고, 그 측정치를 기반으로 자수 형태의 RFID 태그를 제작하였다. 제작한 안테나의 성능을 검증하기 위하여 반사 손실, 인식 거리 패턴 등을 측정하여 약 1.52 m의 인식 거리를 갖는 것으로 나타났다.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.32-50
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to reveal the process of enactment and revision, the contents of the police uniform system by the Government-General of Joseon, and to examine the relationship between the uniform system and the ruling policies of Imperialist Japan. The research methodology involved document research of official gazettes that published legislation on the police uniform system. Political background was referenced from various preceding studies. The research results are as follows. The Japanese invasion of Korea, in regards to the police, appeared as infiltrations through the three routes of consular police, temporary military police, and inside the Korean police. Each organization had different uniform systems, and after the installation of the Japanese police in 1907, the uniform system of high level officers of the Korea police was changed to the Japanese-style. After the installation of the Government-General of Joseon in 1910, a police uniform system was not enacted until 1918, with the exception being made for police officers due to the military police system. The 'Police Officer Uniform System of the Government-General of Joseon' enacted in 1918 stood out for its golden insignia on solidly colored fabric, which effectively indicated rank, as well as the Japanese flag pattern and the cherry blossom pattern, which symbolized imperialist Japan, on the cap badge and insignia. The 1918 uniform system had many differences from the Japanese system of the time in terms of design, perhaps due to the political autonomy of the governor-general. The 1918 uniform system was completely revised in 1932. This uniform system was modified in various ways. The system was almost identical to the Japanese system at that time. This is the result of Japan's intent to dominate Korea, which involved assimilating Korea into Japan with the purpose of conducting a full-fledged invasion of the continent after the Manchurian Incident.

• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.58-71
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• 2007

This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.59-66
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.174-187
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• 2014

This study intended to propose a guideline designed to secure safety by developing a functional color design for the color of the ordinary working clothes worn in the actual industrial settings of the machine industry in national industrial complexes in Korea. For this, a total of 6 sets of actual working clothes were produced for test, using 2-color arrangements with blue, of varying brightness and chroma for top and bottom, in relation to the visibility proven in preceding studies and evaluated in the machine industry. Blue was suggested the best proper color for machine industry by previous studies. For the material of working clothes, a total of 111 swatches were collected from the Dongdaemoon Fabric Market, and they were analyzed for color values. A total of 6 materials were used to produce working clothes for testing, which represented high brightness, medium brightness, low brightness, high chroma, medium chroma, and low chroma. Clothes were tried at the industrial settings for machine industry in a national industrial complex located in Gyeongsangnam-do and the expert satisfaction evaluation was performed based on items related with safety. As a result, higher satisfaction was shown when the brightness difference of top and bottom clothes was greater, and for chroma, relatively higher satisfaction appeared when the chroma of both top and bottom clothes was high. To secure satisfaction for both brightness and chroma, it is possible to deduce that the 2-color arrangement using the strong tone with high brightness and high chroma and the dark tone with somewhat low brightness and high chroma would be effective. Top and bottom clothes in the same color with high chroma had high visibility but had somewhat low evaluation for harmonious arrangements. This indicated that the arrangement of vivid colors for top-bottom clothes is inappropriate.

• 품질경영학회지
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• 제46권3호
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• pp.425-440
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• 2018

Purpose: This study is aimed at developing of the flex resistance testing process at low temperature with the waterproof fabric to suit the military environment, and is designed to fit for the purpose of the waterproof materials in order to optimize the test method by finding out matters to improve from existing the test method and through previous studies. Methods: The test method, which has been applied to flex resistance of existing water-repellent materials, was improved and consequently, differentiated test results could be obtained according to the test temperature, sample size, and flexing method. Results: The testing of the total of 8 samples revealed that performance of the military requirement could hardly be met just by presenting the materials or 2~3 layers when the quality criteria for high functional water repellent fabrics were applied. PTFE(Polytetrafluoroethylene) is preferred to PU(Polyurethane) to be used in the extremely low-temperature environment, but durability under the low-temperature environment may be varied depending on film thickness or laminating technique even if the materials of waterproof films are identical. Therefore, in addition to the material or texture, the test method capable of reflecting durability under the low-temperature environment shall be suggested, and the newly designed test method proposed in this study was shown to suggest differentiated quality criteria by the material. Conclusion: The water resistance measurement and the test method following flex resistance with expanded range of flex will enable the differentiable test of the samples according to the number of repetition. This study is meaningful in that it suggests a differentiable test method capable of establishing a basis of deciding suitable material when selecting military goods made of water repellent material by properly improving the test method.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.50-66
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• 2010

This Shanghai region study is a sample survey of female college students in their early 20s. This study collected and analyzed the information of shapes through a direct contact survey to understand the breast figures and the measurements of bodies to provide basic information to improve brassiere production for adult females in China. Data was analyzed through a SAS 9.0. The characteristic of the final brassiere pattern that had been corrected and complemented from the results of the $l^{st},\;2^{nd},\;3^{rd}$, and $4^{th}$ fitting tests is defined as a brassiere inserted with a round wire that has the 3/4cup to wrap the bust area by about 3/4. It consists of an upper and lower nonwoven fabric cup that has a flat-shaped wing of a circular dart. The drawing method of the pattern of this brassiere is applied with the conditions to cover the body naturally under the diverse and organic relations of the material factor of stretch material and wire, functional factor, and sewing factor. The final pattern is created as a bigger angle of wing pattern and a short inner side diameter because there are more Chinese women with a back of bending figure compared to Korean women.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.