Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.12
no.4
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pp.197-206
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2010
The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.
The purpose of the study was to investigate brand images and fashion leaderships of women's wear manufacturers targeting middle-aged women or older women. Thus, this study was to be an exploratory study to investigate clothing behavior of elderly female consumers and search apprel niche-market for them. The questionnaire consists of questions on brand images, fashion leadership, and merchandise assortment. The subjects were to evaluate their brand images and rated on 5 point Likert-type scales of 29 adjectives. The fashion leadership of these brands was evaluated by the degree of fashion trends adopted on 7 aspects including fashion images, silhouettes, fabrics, colors, design details, accessories, and item-coordinations. For the survey, both interview and the subjects were 66 manufacturers which have national brands or designer brands. Among 44 respondents, 30 respondents were designers and the rest of them were merchandiser or shop managers. The SPSS PC+ package was used to calculate frequency, T-test, and cluster analysis. The results from survey of manufacturers targeting middle-aged women or older women are as follow: 1) The brand imges which they pursue are prestigious, practical, and elegance. 2) There were significant differences in brand images, and national brand manufacturers pursue stronger images in prestigious, chic, intelligent, competency, than designer brand manufacturers. 3) 40 brands were divided into two clusters. 36 brands were included in one cluster, and only 4 brand were belong to the other cluster. In this market, the image of feminity was grouped with the image of prestigious, chic, intelligent, competency. 4) In product planning, the adption level of fashion trends in 7 aspects was generally at medium level, but fashion trends were more adopted in fabric, color, and item-coordination.
The purpose of this study was to analyze the effect of fiber contents of socks fabric on the subjective sensitivity and emotional sensibility of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective sensitivity and sensibility according to fiber contents and color value of socks. We made five plain knit fabrics as specimens, with a combination of chitosan/SUS fiber contents and three value levels of grayish color. The subjects were 15 males and 54 females in the twenties. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncan multiple range test, and regression analysis. The major finds were as follows: A factor analysis showed that subjective sensitivity was classified into five factors (bulky, surface-rough, elastic, attention, and variety) and emotional sensibility was into four factors (salience, stability, luxury, and activity). There were significant correlation between the subjective sensitivity and emotional sensibility. The subjective sensitivities of 'surface-rough' and 'elastic' were significantly influenced by fiber contents. The sensibilities of 'salience' and 'luxury' were significantly influenced by fiber contents. Where as the 'salience' and 'roughness' were significant influenced by color value level. According to sex, there were significantly difference in 'bulky', 'elastic' and 'salience'. As a result of the regression analysis, preference, consuming desire and satisfaction appears to be closely related with all subjective sensitivity and sensibility.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.40
no.1
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pp.56-68
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2016
Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the shirt market, to find out the shirt trend in 2005 A/W, to analysis shirt style Preference, and to investigate the shirts purchase attitude according to the income, age, and occupation of the 321 respondents, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics. The results from the study were as follows ; In 2005 A/W, Countessmara, Daks, Dupont, Renoma, and Yesac were commomly distributed in 5 department stores in Daejon and Seoul. There were seen trends that were pursuing a various fabric, colors, details, and high-touch design in shirt. Men workers prefered the Basic and Modern casual style to Soft, Sophisticated, Modern mannish, and Trendy style shirt. The 133(41.4%)respondents estimated that the important viewpoint in purchasing dress shirts was 'Design. The 212(66%) respondents estimated that they prefered the different shirt brand from their suits. And results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). The 103 (32.1%) respondents estimated that they possessed the three shirts per one suits. The 201(62.6%) respondents estimated that they prefered the department store for purchasing shirt. And, the 114(35.5%) respondents estimated that the first important information source which influenced on purchasing dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%).
The peanut-shaped cloth diaper has cut uncomfortable crotch region off the square-shaped cloth diaper into a peanut-shape, and finished the edge by bias with multi-layers of fabric. This study has the purpose on providing the basic data for designing the peanut-shaped cloth diaper. For this purpose, the peanut-shaped cloth diapers on market were collected and analyzed by their shape and size, and also the patterns and differences in making were compared. 26 products from 17 brands were collected as samples. The analysis factors are the shape and size of the peanut-shaped cloth diaper, and characteristics and patterns in making. Among the samples, only 3 diapers were straight-shaped; the rest of them were peanut-shaped. The size difference between the big and small peanut-shaped cloth diapers was very large; the total length of the small one was 36.5cm-39cm which was very common, and the total length of the big one was more than 44cm. All diapers had longer width in the back than the front. The width of the front and back was different for each sample, therefore, it seemed to have some difficulties to set the standard. The peanut-shaped cloth diaper had different make-up depending on its characteristics including. absorbance, washing and drying. It was usually made by cotton woven of diamond jacquard or knit, and finished the edge by woven bias or knit bias. The peanut-shaped cloth diapers were various including a sheet of diaper, two sheets of diapers fixed with velcro, three sheets of diapers, and etc. For the patterns of the diapers, only two samples out of all had three dimensional shape, and the rest were produced using flat shape. There were no distinction between the diapers of girls and boys. Therefore, it is necessary to make the product based on scientific data about the peanut-shaped cloth diaper.
This paper describes the evaluation of structural performance test and finite element analysis to verify the design of Bimodal Tram made of sandwich composites. The sandwich composite applied to vehicle structure was composed of a aluminum honeycomb core and WR580/NF4000 glass fabric/epoxy laminate composite facesheet. The load tests of vehicle structure were conducted for vertical load, compressive load, torsion and modal analysis according to JlS E 7105. The structural Integrity of vehicle was evaluated by the measurement of displacement, stress and natural frequency obtained from dial gauge, strain gauge and gravity sensor, respectively. And finite element analysis using ANSYS v11.0 was done to compare with structural test. The results showed that the displacement, stress and natural frequency were in an good agreement with those of structural analysis using the proposed finite element models.
In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of tenant layout for selected cases of five different Urban Entertainment Center(UEC) in Seoul. This research deals with the process of gaining tenant layout pattern of 40 different types. It is composed of three combination unit with tenants of the same or different consumption mode, which is divided into four different functions of retail, entertainment, dining, and service. Then, every tenant of research cases is classified as one of the fabric type, and the data is analyzed to gain its frequency rate with SPSS 14.0 program. The following is the overall explanation of the result for this research. The frequency of tenant layout pattern between the same consumption mode shows the high rate when compared to the other patterns with different consumption mode. For example, the frequency rate of tenant layout pattern which retail and dining consumption mode are placed side by side like RRR and DDD is high. Interestingly, the frequency rate of RRR type of tenant layout pattern that sells the similar products shows especially high level. It can provide the effective environment for shoppers to compare retail goods in many different stores as producing synergic effects when they are located near each other, so this strategy should be considered when planning tenants in UEC environment. Moreover, in case of dining tenants, when they are clustered together in the UEC environment it can play a role as an anchor tenant. Tenant layout pattern of dining-retail and dining-service consumption mode shows the high frequency rate than other layout pattern with other consumption mode. Besides, entertainment consumption tenants combined with dining or retail tenants show the high frequency rate when compared to the pattern combined with service consumption mode.
The purpose of this paper is to analyze the relationship between panoramic perception and space organization for restoration of urban environment and architecture. Panorama is a collective visual catalogue composed by series of perspective images. It is a product from continuous movements of viewer by defamilarizing real image and structuring order between city and building. Through understanding the panoramic image, the viewer is able to achieve the total image of the city. For example, achieving visual perception of the city by employing the panoramic view from different historical backgrounds and cultures, Berlin developed its urban characteristic by rebuilding panoramic view as an aesthetic device. First, this paper mention theory of panorama as an aesthetic device for shaping the city from the building. Second, this paper analyze the relationships between characteristics of panorama and historical contexts for why those panoramic views are valuable by mentioning the Altes Museum, the Berlin National Gallery, Museum of Modern Literature, and Folkwang Museum of panoramic view. In conclusion, this paper argues that visual perception such as panoramic view is the valuable device for organizing the image of the city's own identity. Constructing vision of each city influences not only shaping the city but also mapping the mental views of the building. Also, historical conditions and open spaces are one of the inherent elements combined with panoramic view for establishing urban identity. In search for good place making, it is important to understand the role of the historical context and fabric plan in shaping how a resident sees - literally, sees- their city with buildings. Berlin serve as excellent counter example in how the valuable place making panoramic mental views of urbanities take shape.
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