• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.108-121
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• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.5-30
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to observe artistic of Expressionism reflected to works of European costume designers by analizing works of seven major representative costume designers in the twentieth century. They are Mariano Fortuny, Paul poiret, Madelene Vionnet, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed individual and various creative costume design work with peculiar expresive techniques, which is based on the Expressionism. Although each creative work was made in extremely unique sense, there was comon expressive spirituality I their creative activity. The findings are as follows : 1. Based on the "Medieval-directed characteristic" which arose over all fields of art of those days, a modern and reformative clothing beauty was created by reanalyzing traditional motive. 2 Characteristic of Cubistic Expressionism were described in overall silhouette of clothing and fine decorative element. 3. Fantastic Expressionism, which pursued basic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs, effected costume style of early 20th century and draw such designers as Mariano Fortuny, Leon Bakst, Paul Poiet, Elsa Schiaqarelli to adopt intensive and primary color. And it also gave an impact against traditional concepts by accepting fantastic oriental Exoticism.Exoticism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.139-156
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate various information relating to research on the dimensions of clothing used in the sale of products via the internet that used to target global SPA((Specialty Store Retailer of Private Label Apparel) brands sold in Korea. A total of 12 SPA brands including seven global SPA brands and five national. SPA brands were surveyed in this study. Brands were chosen net sales and consumer preferences the last three years. In all SPA brands, literal size designation such as S, M, L and numeric size designation such as 0, 2, 4 or 32, 34, 36 etc. were mixed, but in case of Jean, the size codes mark waist circumference were dominant. European size codes were more common in case of European brands while literal codes were more dominantly used for American size codes with in the US brands. By reviewing the measurement information of the body and product size, the product measurement methods of UNIQLO, FOREVER 21 and TOPTEN were much more accountable and excellent than other brands. However, most of the others didn't offer proper information such as pictograms or figures about measurement methods relating body sizes and product sizes. In addition, most of global SPA brands offered size conversion chart which consumers could reference, however of none of the national SPA brands offered a conversion size chart on their website. Regardless of the type of clothing, the coverage of clothing size was higher than in global SPA brands such as H&M GAP compared to national SPA brands. In particular, 8seconds did not present apparel size ranges that fit consumers' individual clothes sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.215-223
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• 1998

The main purpose of this study was to investigate if and how country-of-origin as product characteristics and attitude toward imported brand and brand familiarity as consumer characteristics have impacts on consumer satisfaction with imported apparel. Disconfirmation paradigm was used as a theoretical framework. 570 consumers who had buying experiences of imported apparel were interviewed in department stores. The results showed that the most influential factor on consumer satisfaction with imported apparel was perceived clothing product performance. Country-of-origin and expectations had little effects. Country-of-origin appeared effective on consumer satisfaction only in the case of European products. Consumers were satisfied less as their expectations level were high, which indicated expectations had contrast effects on clothing satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.21-36
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• 2000

History confirms that the eastern style was reflected in various parts of the western culture including clothing. In this paper we show some evidence that the influence of India on the French clothing during the neo-classical period(1789-1820) was substantial. Among others, the use of muslin, kashmir shawl and banyan during the period is greatly emphasized. The muslin imported from India was used as the textile for the chemise mown, a typical clothing during the period. Indian muslin was used, because it was of better quality compared to the muslin manufactured in England and France and it was not expensive. The kashmir shawl imported from kashmir in India was also a popular item in Europe not only because it matched well with simple color of chemise gown, but because it expressed the tone of Greek and Roman. Banyan which was most popular clothing worn by men in 18th century Europe originally came from India, which goes back to the Kaftan clothing in the Central Asia. Banyan was an informal home style clothing different from the conventional tight men's wear. It is true that the muslin, kashmir shawl, and banyan also became fashion items throughout the 19th and 20th century to the English and other European people. However, we limited our attention to the influence of India on France because we think the French Revolution and Napoleon's conquest of Egypt are far more important factors when considering the influence of Indian culture on Europe.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1094-1105
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• 1997

Balla within Italian art is characterized by the irreducibility of proteiforme work. He was aware of the possibility of abolishing all the barriers between major arts and minor arts and he placed dissemination of art in life: He applied his idea of a lively, joyous art to the world around him. His irruption of art into life appeared in futurist clothing. As a father of Futurist fashion he designed the futurist dress for men and women. It was invented a new type of dress. It was conceived as the realisation of his art-life-festivity and created with an mimic funtion of modern city. In futurist men's out-fit, he eliminated static lines, forms and colors and he used asymmetrical cuts and various strong bright colors. The colors was the determinent of factor of use of clothing. Women's dress was secondary to his reevaluation of the male dress but it was current with other European trend. He made dynamic patterns in textile design, which were the key point in the futurist design. The factors of the futurist textile design were abstract character, dynamic character and asymmetrical character. But the patterns was not related to the dynamic forms. His invention of the new style was simple form with dynamic patterns as a modernizing factor in clothing design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.87-97
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• 1996

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.1-8
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• 2007

In the decade of the 1920s in an America, with booming of economy, people had more money. And with the development of transportation, people can afford expensive traveling throughout Europe. With this reason they were exposed to a nobility of European style and liked royalty more than before. American hunting man wanted traditional dress to express their status as a psychological code and the reason of the existing very similar hunting garment in nowadays is based on this belief. The purpose of this study is not merely understanding the styles of American Men's hunting and shooting garments in the 1920s but understanding the psychology of the people. People quite clearly do not dress according to function ore need alone and, in fact the consumption of clothes increasingly serves no other purpose than to fulfill or express psychological or social, rather than practical need.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.55-56
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• 2003

An old castle in a tranquil setting. At first glance, no-one would suspect that this was the backdrop for the research and services centre providing expertise from all areas of the textile-clothing supply chain, textile care and other associated sectors. The Hohenstein Institutes are a modern communications centre with the latest research equipment where highly qualified scientists carry out their research and exchange knowledge. This combination of high-calibre staff and the philosophy of the unity of research, training and application have guaranteed the Hohenstein team of their position as an internationally respected institution offering high levels of expertise in all areas of the textile-clothing chain. At the beginning of the 21st century, the team of scientists at Hohenstein made the research and development of high-tech textile and garment innovations their number one priority. They recognise a rapidly developing market for "intelligent textiles" and "Smart Clothes" capable of adapting their function to the existing environmental conditions. Clients for the research projects, which are often carried out in conjunction with other institutions and industry, are research associations, federal ministries, the European Union and numerous leading companies both in Germany and abroad. The Hohenstein Institutes dispose of four international offices at the moment: in Turkey (since 1996), USA (since 1999), Lima (since 2002) and Mexico (since 2003).