• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.763-778
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• 2021

The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai's knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study's data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai's distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.427-445
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• 1996

According as the fashion at the latter half part of the 20th century is diversified and made into high-class gradually, it is demanding the individuality of each one. Especially, since the beginning of 1980s, fashion came to represent the restoration mood in a modern style because of the popularization of post-modernism. And with this, it came to result in the reappearance of minimalism which was one of anti-culture in 1960s. In this study, this researcher grasped the appearance background, concept and structural concept of minimalism, and tried to study the influence that he minimalism had on fashion in the flow of fashion over the first half period of the 20th century. Minimalism is the fine art trend of American characteristic which quicked by the meeting of European culture and American culture, according as the new avant-grade art of Europe moved to America after World War II Minimalism which appeared, refusing the mechanisation, industrialization and mass production of America and the falsehood of consciousness and sensitivity under existing system remained obscure by the pop art which is the commercial fine art of same period, but it came to expand the domain of work possibility of modern fine art, and it became the basis of appearance of post-modernism. Minimalism has 4 kinds of structural features which are nonside nature, repetitiousness and environment nature with 3 dimensional feature which is issue nature. Minimalism is appearing in the exfcellent and future-oriented fashon of Andre Kureju t the time of 1960 well. Then science revolution and minimalism aroused the mini-revolution, and they made the compact radio in electric home appliances and the miniskirt in fashion appear. The features of minimal fashion as Retro '60' which appeared in the decedent mood with the 21st century just before on are as follows: First, the are the pursuit of concise plastic line. Second, it is the use of high tech material Third, the miniaturization in size amy be enumerated. Minimal fashion will appear s the positive confrontation from of mankind as the optimistic viewpoint about feature in the situation hat environment was destroyed and the resources were exhausted.

• 복식
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• 제50권8호
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• pp.177-198
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• 2000

The major purpose of this study is to obtain the evident and visual data about the changes of Korean dress with a socio-cultural context through dress depicted in the Korean films since the 1960s. For this purpose, after were Korean socio-cultural background including the history of Korean films and mass fashion trends reviewed, total fifteen Korean films by ten year were selected on the basis of contemporaneity popularity, and fashionability, and analyzed with the data reviewed before. And the results can be summarized as follows : Dress in the Korean films of the 1960s shows sporty casual took influenced by western style, with the popularity of young fashion and youth film. The typical styles are sac dress and mini skirt fur women, and suit with American silhouette for men. Unisex mode including slim T-shirts and blue jeans with European silhouette supt appears mainly in the Korean films of the 1970s, with the change of sex roles and mass fashion trend. Dress in the Korean films of the 1980s is characterized by bold silhouette and decorative details. with the boom of erotic metro-drama and luxurious fashion trend, such as padded jacket, X silhouette ensemble, brig look coat for women, and American style suit for men. Dress in the Korean films of the 1990s shows the rapid cycle of fashion with the increase of casual wear, reflecting the popularity of romantic comedy film and various socio-cultural circumstances. As a result, the current of dress depleted in the Korean films since the 1960s is summarized as the cycle of fashion accelerated, the similarity between men's and women's wear, and the increase of sporty casual wear. Also, dress in the films reflects effectively the socio-cultural context related to fashion except for especially emphasizing characters in films.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.745-755
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to observe school education system, higher education, and fashion education in Germany to find a good model for an desirable future education to lead a creative students in Korea, thereby reshaping curriculum. We also analysed the curriculum of the fashion design offered in Hochschule Pforzheim and Berlin University of Art. We used secondary data collection by literature reviews of articles and web sites on the internet. Results of this study are as follows: German school and education system oriented with differentiation even though there are variety of them. Students can select their education system, considering work field and their own life & humanities. Various fashion education institutions were found to have their own education concept to enhance creativity with different system. Our results of analysis of the fashion design program of Hochschule Pforzheim and Berlin University of Art show their creativity education in their curriculums with module basis. Two universities have a differentiate education direction for the same aim to do creative design study and research. We realized that students learn and get the knowledge and apply to the field with a long term internship, communication skill and presentation development courses. Project based modules enable students to be creative, and active human. Strong design basis, and humanities disciplines will support people to creative design works. These two universities offer a good model of program to build up self education drive, academic and practical ways of training, and project based, internship, etc.

• 복식
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• 제61권8호
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• pp.45-56
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• 2011

This study is about the features of hybridization of ethnic-cultural elements in Korean fashion magazines. Its purpose was to embody more creative and newer images in fashion by promoting better mutual understanding of foreign cultures and addressing the issues of fashion design from multicultural perspectives. In doing so, the present study conducted a literature review and analyzed a total of 130 photographic images with any hybrid ethic element from two Korean fashion magazines, Vogue Korea and Harper's Bazaar Korea, issued between 2005 and 2009. The analysis revealed that there were 66 images(50.8%) with a mixture of two different cultures and 64 images(49.2%) with a mixture of three or more different cultures. As seen from the results, the two categories had a similar number of cases. In regional terms, the use of two different cultural elements included a mixture of Asian and Western cultures in 32 images(24.6%), a mixture of Western and African, Middle Eastern or Latin American cultures in 23(17.7%), and a mixture of Western and Russian or European folk cultures in 11(8.5%). In the use of three or more different cultural/national elements, the present study found a mixture of Asian, African, Middle Eastern, Latin American and Western costume items in 20 photo images(15.4%), a mixture of African, Middle Eastern and Latin American elements plus Western costume items in 19 images( 14.6%), a mixture of all regional cultures in 13 photos(10%), and a mixture of Asian ethic cultures plus Western costume items in 12 cases(9.2%). The results of this analysis indicated that the hybridization of ethnic-culture elements in Korean fashion magazines consisted of diverse clothing and accessories from various ethnic groups. The expression of these multi-cultural hybrid images that consists background images and models from different cultures well-portrayed the multi-cultural elements based on total coordination and broke the stereotypical aspects of styling.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.39-52
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• 2005

This paper is to study about paisley shawl and paisley motif to focus on Kashmir shawl. Kashmir shawl and paisley shawl of Europe can be identified by the use of 'pine cone' motif. Early 19th Europe textile manufactures began imitating the Kashmir shawl, the motif began to be called 'paisley', after Paisley, Scotland, one of the largest producers of imitation Karshmir shawls. This study is to analyze on origin of shawl and paisley motif at the theoretical background. And main issues are to study on organization of the Kashmir shawl indusry, weaving technic and producing process, development of motif, change of size and border design of shawl, difference of Woven Kashmir shawl, Patchwork shawl and hml shawl, causes of decline to shawl industry, differences of between Kashmir and European shawl etc. The result of this study can help to understand correct and accurate information, knowledge of paisley motif and paisley shawl.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.301-316
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• 2016

Due to the dramatic increase in consumers' price sensitivity and growing importance for global retailers to create relevant price strategies, this study investigates the global pricing strategy of the main SPA brands such as ZARA, H&M and UNIQLO. Based on price information shown on official website, the study developed SPA brand index by using exchange rates in terms of US dollars and ratio of differences between the local price and the US price. These figures were compared with GDP per person data in order to analyze each brand's price level against the income level. The study also compared SPA brand index with Big Mac index to identify the difference in price levels between the fast fashion market and the fast food market. ZARA and H&M were mostly targeting Middle East and Asia as a high-price market when considering index only. After taking the income level into account, however, Asia came out be the highest price market and Middle East was similar to the US market. On the other hand, UNIQLO targeted Asia as the lowest price market and the US and EU as the highest in terms of index only. But, Asia came out to be the highest price zone after considering the income level while the price of the US and EU was reasonable. Comparison with Big Mac Index indicated that most of Asia had a higher price level of the fashion market than the food market, whereas most European countries had a similar or high-price level of food market.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.613-625
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• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

In this study, 70 national brands among men's wear brands were selected to examine linguistic characteristics of domestic national men's wear brand names. Linguistic factors which were used in national men's wear brand names were analyzed to understand their characteristics. Formative and semantic characteristics of each brand name were analyzed on the basis of the results from previous studies. It was found that long words with over four syllables are preferred than short words and single words in the form of noun are frequently used for domestic national men's wear brand names in terms of linguistic formality. English is most widely used in brand names, and European languages such as French, Spanish, and Italian are also used frequently under the influence of the country of origin. Next, the analysis result on the semantic characteristics of domestic national men's wear brand names showed that descriptive brand names are used to convey brand information directly and easily, or freestanding brand names which are absolutely irrelevant and newly coined words are chosen to create a characteristic image. In other words, brand names represent detailed business and product category of men's wear by forming a brand image of men's wear (ex. Man, Homme, Zio), and provide the information about properties and benefits related to the product such as dignity, masterpiece, and luxurious lifestyle to consumers by presenting the concept of the brand.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.64-73
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• 2015

This paper examines the characteristics of Hungarian women's costumes under the Reign of the Habsburg Empire in the $19^{th}$ Century. Since the beginning of the $19^{th}$ century, the Habsburg Empire inflicted strong oppression on Hungary. Under the influence of the European upper class, exaggerated and sumptuous costumes were fashionable in the Hungarian Aristocracy. They preferred blouses decorated with colorful embroidery, pleated sleeves, gorgeous beads and lace, long pleated skirts with velvet borders, corsets decorated with delicate embroidery, coats adorned with lace, and capes. However, Hungarian nationalists protested against the Habsburg Empire's oppression; consequently, Hungarian national costumes expressed a sense of resistance and solidarity. The results of the study are as follows. The Hungarian women's costumes were different from women's costumes of the Habsburg Empire in regards to headdress, bodice, apron, pattern and shoes. The Hungarian women's headdress consists of the parta and veil. The bodice is richly adorned with colorful embroidery and differs from skirts in color and material. The Hungarian women's apron is distinct from the Habsburg Empire as a unique Hungarian item. Finally, Hungarian costumes are characterized by the Oriental pattern and short boots with metal heels.