• Title/Summary/Keyword: Ethnic Costume

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Knit fashion design applying to the features of the Chinese Yao minority costume (중국 소수민족 요족 복식의 특성을 응용한 니트 패션 디자인)

  • Shu, Jin;Lee, Younhee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.15-32
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    • 2020
  • This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

The Formative Characteristics of Ukrainian Ethnic Dresses (우크라이나 민족복식의 조형성)

  • 최수빈;조우현
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.63-75
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    • 2004
  • The traditional Ukrain costume has been gradually developed and influenced by the climate and political, economical environments. The national costumes has represented the beliefs and understanding of people about the beauty and harmony of the world. Eastern Europe and Northern Asia are considered as the origins of the Korean traditional costume, and the artifacts ranged from over the Black Sea to ‘Skitai’ and Northern Asia to ‘Noinoola’ support this hypothesis. This study is investigate the formative characteristics of Ukrain national costume especially of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. In Ukrain, Men wear ‘Rubaha’ (shirts style's upper garment-in Ukrain Sarochka) and trousers, women wear ‘Rubaha’ with vest and a skirt and a head gear were worn. Ukrain is consisted with three group - 1) Dnipro region-included the Kiev region in the center of Ukrain, 2) Polissia region in the northwest of Ukra in and 3) Hutsul-Zakarpattia region in the west of Ukrain. These three groups have there own different formative characteristics of Ukrain traditional costume.

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A Study on the Expressive Characteristics of Design Elements and Fashion Images Shown in Wedding Dress Styles in the 2000s (2000년대 웨딩드레스 스타일의 패션이미지와 구성요소 표현특성)

  • Jun, Wonhee;Yoo, Youngsun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.1
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    • pp.64-76
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    • 2014
  • This study aimed to analyze the expressive characteristics of design elements and fashion images shown in wedding dress styles in the 2000s. The findings were as follows. First, in wedding dress style the fashion images analysis showed that classic images appeared the most frequently, and fantastic, modern, kitsch, sexy, futuristic and ethnic images appeared the most, respectively. Second, design elements analysis of fashion images concluded that as for the appearance frequency of the silhouette, A line was the highest in classic, fantastic and kitsch images and H line was the highest in ethnic, modern, futuristic and sexy image. As for the appearance frequency of the necklines, bared top neckline was the highest in all of the fashion images. As for waistlines, natural waistlines except modern image of obscure waistlines appeared the most frequently in all of the images. As for sleeve, sleeveless appeared the most frequently in all of the images. As for material, see-through was the highest in ethnic, classic, sexy, fantastic and kitsch images. Luster material was the highest in modern and futuristic image. As for colors, white and achromatic, traditional wedding dress color, appeared the same in all of the seven fashion images, but chromatic colors appeared the most frequently in ethnic images. Third, the distinguishing expression features of fashion images shown in the wedding dress style of the times is as follows: 'Total fashion in wedding dress style', 'Emphasizes sexy image expression in wedding dress style', 'Various co-existence of wedding dress style', and 'Avant-garde expression in wedding dress style'.

A Study on the Ethnic Minimalism Expressed in Modern Fashion - Comparing with Minimalism - (현대 복식에 나타난 에스닉 미니멀리즘에 관한 연구 - 미니멀리즘(minimalism)과의 비교 고찰을 통하여 -)

  • Chae, Hye-Sook;Chae, Keum-Suk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.3
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    • pp.63-78
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    • 2008
  • Since 1960, minimalism has been one of the fashion phenomenon and turned out in many different ways. After postmodernism which contains negotiation and pluralism, appeared in 1980, there was a new wave of post minimalism that inherited 1960's minimalism. Minimal style which come out of 60's fashion, is marked by simplicity, minimal expression, and monochrome color, and it shows up simple style with no decoration. It opened up a young fashion period, and we saw minimal style in sports wear which utilized simplicity and function with spread of sports in the 70's. And also since 1980, Post-Modern widely influenced the idea about modern culture as well as complicated clothes getting rid of fixed concept, seeking to break the boundary between culture and life which were seek in fashion and personality as well as various characteristic, Accordingly in different ages, The style and image were borrowed from different culture and natural environment mixing the image, cultural phenomena like these appearing in complexity and expression, variety and possibility of new vision was expanded. Since 1980, Fashion has become more gradually diversity, high classed, required of each individuality. The phenomenon of fashion reappearance which was influenced by minimalism is continued to 2000. The Oriental style fashion is still attracted, so The new term "Ethic Minimalism" has appeared along with the trends which is put together. Therefore the purpose of this study is to search the concept and the characteristics of ethnic minimalism, to consider the relationship between minimalism and ethnic minimalism, and reveal the characteristic of ethnic minimalism happened to modern fashion. The study method went through literature research and practice research. The range of this study is oriental fashion spanning of from 1960 to current day. Photo records from this period show well the spirit of the oriental and the personality of minimalism. The oriental representative designer and western representative designer are centered Consequently, The formative characteristics of ethnic minimalism are simple, pure, unbalanced free style and representing the phenomena of compromise, blending oriental and western fashion. Structually, Elements of space and plane are emphasized, colors are restricted, and materials are composed mainly of natural fiber. So, minimalism based on simplicity combined with a structure of oriental spiritual depth and space, It could be called ethnic minimalism as a rational fashion.

A Study on Stage Costume Design for Opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" (오페라 "카발레리아 루스티카나"의 무대의상 디자인연구)

  • 이경희;김윤경;오해순;이관이;김지연;김수희;최현주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.8
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2002
  • The object of this research is to know the characteristics of design for stage costume design through experiencing production of costume design of Mascani's opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" and to know the effect of stage costume at real performance. Background of times and characteristics were reviewed by analyzing opera. And reference regarding Mascani's opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" and script, and image data analysis and interview with director were also done. Ethnic costume in Sicily in southern Italy was reviewed at conception step. and design was embodied by analyzing character of each person based on this analysis. Form of character. motion and vocalization were considered at actual production step, and stage effect was analysed by considering lighting, stage background, and combination of color on costume between characters through real performance. The above conclusion could present professional and systematic methodology in designing opera and other stage costumes. And this research can also be a contribution in these days when interest for theatrical art. along with importance of stage costume, plays a key role in modern art. role in modern art.

Research on Frog Pattern in Li Brocade

  • Zhang, Shunai;Wu, Simin
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.82-87
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    • 2010
  • Frog or toad is an animal adoration of ancient ancestors in ethnic minorities in South China, in Li tribe tradition, frog is not only a symbol of avoiding evil and the expression of maternal love, but also the decoration of missing the ancestors. This article has discussed the origin of frog pattern, summarized the frog pattern's forms in Li brocade. At last also discussed the common frog pattern in Li tribe.

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A Study on Ethnic look Expressed in Modern Fashion (현대 패션에 나타난 민속풍(Ethnic look)에 관한 연구)

  • 정연자
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.31 no.4
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    • pp.215-229
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    • 1993
  • As a result of making an inquiry into the ethnic look of each region appearing in present-day fashion by Asia. America and Oceania. Africa and Europe as mentioned above, its characteristics could be summarized as follows: Firstly the Asian ethnic look consists of Indian, Chinese and Japanese looks as mainstream. In terms of form, the draped form constituted its mainstream, and both the draped form and the tunic form are appearing Simultaneously in the Chinese look. And in respect to color the Indian look is using luxurious primary colors red, blue, yellow and green and other regions are making overall use of natural colors. With respect to ornament various kinds of ornaments is utilized in Indian's Sari and turban. Chines's Coolie hat, straw hat and embroidery, knotted button, and bead ornament, and Japan's Obi and Obijime, etc. Secondly in America and Oceania, costurme representing the Indian look in North America and the picture of Western pioneer, and the Peruvian, Mexican and chilean ethnic looks in South America were expressing much. Here, the form consistied a draped form as its main strem, such colors as yellow, purple, grey, etc were much utilized, and the material of costume comprised knits, cotton and the like. And the ornament consisted of hats, tassel ornaments, bead ornaments, metal chain belt, long braided hair, etc. Thirdly, the African ethnic look had an exposing form and a draped form, and such colors as black, white, yellow, brown, etc were used as the fashion color. Ornaments such as precious stone, bead ornaments, animal bones, straw metal ornament, etc were used as fashion decorations. Fourthly, Russia's Cossack look, Bulgaria's Bavshika look, spain's ethnic look cane to the fore as the European look Both the draped form and the tunic form were used simultaneously as fashion form. And grey, brown, purple, etc were much used as fashion color in the European look. Such ornaments as Cossack. Bavshka, boots, tassel ornaments were much used and paisley pattern also was used.

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Characteristic of Expressionism on the European Designer's Works in the early 20th Century (20세기초 유럽 디자이너들의 작품에 나타난 표현주의적 특성)

  • 채금석
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.34 no.2
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    • pp.5-30
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    • 1996
  • The purpose of this study is to observe artistic of Expressionism reflected to works of European costume designers by analizing works of seven major representative costume designers in the twentieth century. They are Mariano Fortuny, Paul poiret, Madelene Vionnet, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed individual and various creative costume design work with peculiar expresive techniques, which is based on the Expressionism. Although each creative work was made in extremely unique sense, there was comon expressive spirituality I their creative activity. The findings are as follows : 1. Based on the "Medieval-directed characteristic" which arose over all fields of art of those days, a modern and reformative clothing beauty was created by reanalyzing traditional motive. 2 Characteristic of Cubistic Expressionism were described in overall silhouette of clothing and fine decorative element. 3. Fantastic Expressionism, which pursued basic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs, effected costume style of early 20th century and draw such designers as Mariano Fortuny, Leon Bakst, Paul Poiet, Elsa Schiaqarelli to adopt intensive and primary color. And it also gave an impact against traditional concepts by accepting fantastic oriental Exoticism.Exoticism.

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Development of fashion design applying to costume and Huangping batik of the Chinese minority Miao (중국 소수민족 묘족(苗族) 복식과 황평 납염 특성을 활용한 패션디자인)

  • Long, Lulu;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.29 no.4
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    • pp.585-602
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    • 2021
  • The purpose of this study is twofold: First, to develop new sustainable design methods (aligned with ethnic elements and traditional culture) combined with three-dimensional digital clothing technology throughout the design process, which can be presented as guideline materials for various fashion designs to be developed in contemporary sensibilities. Second, it is the intention to produce creative fashion designs by incorporating the characteristics and methods of Miao's Huangping batik dyeing technique and to present various possibilities in the fashion design field. The overall design characteristics sought by Miao minority are in line with the complex terrain and the ecological and climatic conditions. Miaoist batik dyeing (registered as part of Chinese national intangible cultural heritage) features unique production methods and patterns. The study results are as follows. First, this attempt has enabled understanding of the national costume culture as Chinese Miao's traditional cultural heritage to be promoted, while the direction of contemporary design development using traditional elements has been presented. Second, the study demonstrated new and innovative expressions and styles relying on three-dimensional digital contouring technology and identified the possibility of developing various designs. Third, it was confirmed that the dyed batik pattern design created by the three-dimensional digital contouring technology could be recombined or expanded as digital printing to express the traditional ethnic designs in a practical manner utilizing digital printing techniques based on traditional characteristics.

Development of fashion design applied to costume of the Chinese Minority Xinjiang Uygur (중국 신장 위구르족 복식의 특성을 활용한 패션 디자인)

  • Wang, Lifeng;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.28 no.4
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    • pp.492-507
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    • 2020
  • This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.