• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.60-61
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.454-463
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• 2002

The purpose of this thesis is to understand the role and meaning of costumes in feudal dynasties through Ideology, Content, and Consequence of Costume Policy of Qing. And this is to investigate the Ideology of Costume Policy as the first strep. The ideology of the costume policy of Qing dynasty stemmed from the ethnic identity. Huang-tai-ji(황태극) was not only the emperor, but the Qing's principle costume policymaker. He thought that the Man people's horse-riding and archery was the basis of their nation and their costume was vital to these abilities. Therefore if thar changed to the large sleeve costume of the Han people, they would lose their ethnicity. Hurting-tai-ju succeeding emperors continued the ideolo효 of retaining ethnicity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.131-142
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• 2010

The ethnic image in modern fashion can be interpreted as a trend of post-modernism, which appeared after modernism's established style. It has relativity, pluralism and variety, and it tries to revive style of the past. This makes style that borrows and combines image and style of different era and culture as distinctive feature, and in turn is expressed by a new image that is combined with the country's clothes. Also, thanks to the customers who are tired of artificiality and convenience, gift of modern science and technology, simple and natural sensitive marketing and being 'raw' are getting popular as new trend. Today's ethnic image is not merely borrowing visual, superficial image of culture and clothes of other ethnic group, but pursuing natural as purely created by human senses rather than being polished. In terms of ethnic image's formative beauty and aesthetic value, foreign and domestic collections are compared. But for domestic image, only Korean ones are researched, and for foreign designer's fashion image, there are ethnic styles of Japan, China and Korea. Although the documents of domestic designers that I investigated is not sufficient, canonic simple being of oriental image that is seen by the westerners is summarized.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.21
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• pp.207-218
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• 1993

The desire of our contempories who wish to recover humanities fading away and get back recover humanities fading away and get back to the nature is emerging as a main theme of the fashion today the decade of facing 21st century. The prevalence of naturalness-ecology ru-ral peasant look-and ethnic look shows the tendency mentioned above. Kenzo Takada' works which exhibit this naturalness and ethnic look were picked and investigated. The objective of this research is to study the beauty of form and internal and investi-gate in what form the naturaless and Ethnic look in Kenzo's work. The result were as followings : <1> Draped form are mainly used as form and they are made neglecting the body line by straight-cut and provide the wearer ease and freedom of movements <2> As for the color fantastic original colors (red, blue, etc) and natural colors are used. And Strong color contrast is seen. In ethnic look original colors(red, blue, etc.) natural colors and ethnic colors are used. <3> As for the fabric Cotton neat skilk and wool etc are used mainly and use of such natural fibers represents the return to the natural well. <4> As for ornament natural things-straw hat flower feather pebble, shell-are used and exhibit natural feelings strongly. For the ethnic look ornaments representing each country's ethnic atmos-phere by hat scarf and neckcloth made of natural fibers. <5> As for naturalness Flower deer butter-fly leopard and plant etc, are used as motif. As for ethnic look flower geometric motif are used.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.293-319
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• 2003

Retro, one of these fusion styles, was found in various pattern in fashion. Recent fashion trend shows coexistence with variety which cannot be represent by one or two themes, and introduces various images in a season. Therefore, this study was found three fusion image of Retro pattern which has appeared since 1990; Romantic, Ethnic, and Hippie-look. shown in VOGUE, BAZZAR and etc. 1, Romantic image overcame the exaggerated style of 18th century and expressed in a volume gown, a tight dress of high-waist, and bustier. In addition, beads or sequin became more brilliant and gorgeous which decorated the whole clothing. 2. Ethnic image was expressed with fusion of particular traits from all of the world such as Japan, China, India, South America, Greece, and Africa. 3. Hippie-look image has been shown in slim & long silhouette style, and fusion styles of romantic factors or ethnic factors were also found. Retro as one of the phenomenon of fusion was found in romantic image, ethnic image and hippie-look Image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.85-98
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• 2009

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yo tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery pattern has a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse and splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yo tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and design patterns through related books, research papers, internet sites, and etc. The results of the paper are as follows. The Yo tribe's costumes consist of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the color of the costumes is all black, there are splendid embroidery decorations with the colors of red, orange, yellow, green and white on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs, or a part of a trousers and aprons. The types of the patterns represented in the Yo tribe's traditional costumes are related to nature, ancestor worship, ethnic legends, history, religion, and agricultural lives. The method by which the Yo tribe expressed on their costumes is a "peach-blossom" technique, which uses cross-shaped embroidery with wrap and woof threads. Because it is not apt to express delicate and detailed patterns, the Yo tribe's patterns tend to show abstract and geometrical forms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.145-156
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• 2004

This study is regarding closed and open forms, which have relatively high recognition among visual perception phenomena in costumes. In particular, this study reviewed closeness and openness of ethnic look, which is a representative open costume. Closed form can be summarized as simple and clear silhouette, conspicuous differentiation from the background, simple construction of the costume and colors with low brightness and clearness. It Is modern, functional, rational and modest. On the other hand, open form can be summarized as complicated and inconspicuous edge line, complicated inner shape and colors with high brightness, high clearness and vividness. It includes concepts of pleasure, entertainment, joy, eroticism, rebel and resistance. Modern costumes have been simplified for a long time and they have functional and closed characteristics in their shape, structure and form. On the other hand, modern open form costumes are usually found in sub-cultural styles such as punk, hippie, kitsch and vintage, and some ethnic looks. Following is a summary of the characteristics of open form shown in the ethnic look. 1. The shape, structure of costumes, hair accessories, lace, ruffle and ornaments are complicated and irregular. 2. The silhouette is inconspicuous because of ambiguity between backgrounds and ABC (Apparel-Body-Construct) or the use of see-through materials. 3. It makes complicated visual shapes because it does not have a single type but is composed of various clothing items together. 4. It gives complex feelings by matching various colors or more than two different fabrics. 5. It looks like the open type because of the complex patterns shown in the costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1634-1644
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• 2007

This study is to define correctly the concept of exotic image that evolved in domestic fashion since 2001 and to analyze the characteristics and current tendency of the domestic fashion items of the exotic image. Thus this study will be helpful in establishing an academic field of the exotic image in the domestic fashion industry which can offer the ideas necessary for the style and item developments. As for the research method of this study, the frequency and content multi-dimensional analysis were used in the investigation of the exotic images appearing in the domestic fashion brands. The types of exotic image are #ecological#, #folk & ethnic costume#, #kitchy bricolage#, #womanish#, #period# types by analyzed with the elements of exotic images in the domestic women#s fashion brand. The exotic image in domestic fashion market in the middle of 2000s is the results of fusion phenomena among various trend styles, and through the compromise and mixture of different elements, exaggerations, and historically different times of old and new. In conclusion, the contemporary concept of exotic image is expanded by the sum of many contributing images. They are the folk ethnic costume image originating from various different cultures and also the fusion images of folk ethnic costumes from non-urban, not-modern, not-industrialized images compromised with unfamiliar codes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.153-166
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• 1996

The purpose of this paper is to examine the Ethnic Fashion which is influenced by the Anti-Fashion in 1960s. Anti-Fashion as Hippie style had an effect on high fashion in the 60s-70s and which was restored in the early 90s are ethnic and folk-lore style. The influence that the Anti-Fashion has had on the Ethnic Fashion is summarized as follows. At the Ethnic Fashion in 60s-70s: First Europian romantic style that is velvet doublet breecheese race cuffs ruffle flounce race jabbot embrioderd blouse frilled blouse Victorian mode and Pre-Raphaello style. Second handicraft ornaments style & peasant style what are embroidery weaving variaty ornaments tie-dye patch work smocking beads & bell paisely print peasant blouse dundle skirt long skirt to clinging layered look floral print dress and shepherd-ness style. Third folklore style that is Oriental mao-suit harem pants & Indian pants caftan monk robe Afgan vest burnoos dhoti pants Hindu robe Red Indian fringe head band feather ornaments Red indian embroidery & weaving body painting gaucho poncho and serapi. At the Ethnic Fashion in 90s.: First Europian classical romantic style that is Victorian style Pre-Raphaello style ruffle & race decorations and velvet materials. Second peasant look& handicraft orna-ments what are floral print long skirt to cling-ing uneven stitches top stitchings patch work embroidery crochet and tie-dye. Third folklore style that is Red Indian style South East mode is sarong skirt & Nheru jacket Tibet & Mongolian style South America style and gypso style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.45-56
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• 2011

This study is about the features of hybridization of ethnic-cultural elements in Korean fashion magazines. Its purpose was to embody more creative and newer images in fashion by promoting better mutual understanding of foreign cultures and addressing the issues of fashion design from multicultural perspectives. In doing so, the present study conducted a literature review and analyzed a total of 130 photographic images with any hybrid ethic element from two Korean fashion magazines, Vogue Korea and Harper's Bazaar Korea, issued between 2005 and 2009. The analysis revealed that there were 66 images(50.8%) with a mixture of two different cultures and 64 images(49.2%) with a mixture of three or more different cultures. As seen from the results, the two categories had a similar number of cases. In regional terms, the use of two different cultural elements included a mixture of Asian and Western cultures in 32 images(24.6%), a mixture of Western and African, Middle Eastern or Latin American cultures in 23(17.7%), and a mixture of Western and Russian or European folk cultures in 11(8.5%). In the use of three or more different cultural/national elements, the present study found a mixture of Asian, African, Middle Eastern, Latin American and Western costume items in 20 photo images(15.4%), a mixture of African, Middle Eastern and Latin American elements plus Western costume items in 19 images( 14.6%), a mixture of all regional cultures in 13 photos(10%), and a mixture of Asian ethic cultures plus Western costume items in 12 cases(9.2%). The results of this analysis indicated that the hybridization of ethnic-culture elements in Korean fashion magazines consisted of diverse clothing and accessories from various ethnic groups. The expression of these multi-cultural hybrid images that consists background images and models from different cultures well-portrayed the multi-cultural elements based on total coordination and broke the stereotypical aspects of styling.