• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.70-81
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• 2005

This paper researches the system of official uniforms and characteristics of the system based on Ming-Shi(明史), Da-Ming-Hui-Dian(大明會典) and Hong-Wu-Li-Zhi(洪武禮制) in the emperor Hong-wu(洪武帝) of Ming dynasty(明). The system could be divided in to three terms, i.e., the early (initial), the middle and the end (last) terms. In the first(1368) & the third year of the emperor's reign (1370) the system of official uniforms was simple f9r his people not to be luxurious and for revived the system of official uniforms of the Han dynasty(漢) and annulled the system of the Yuan dynasty(元), be-cause the country was not stable yet. During the middle term of Hong-wu, the 14th (1381) to 16th (1383) year of his reign, people attained luxurious lives and developed a strong sense of rank as the country became more stable. As a result, the system became more complicated when the emperor used the costumes to represent political and social ranking. In the end of the emperor's age, the 23rd (1390) to 26th (1393), it reveals his strong intention to establish a system of costumes that separated the ruler from the ruled. He wanted to strengthen the power of Emperor for his little grandson, Jian-wen(建文帝), who would succeed to the throne and would have absolute power. These changes became fundamental to the Ming dynasty's costume system and the Ming dynasty kept them for long time.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2013

This paper researches the system of the official's gongbok(公服) during the reign of emperor Hongwu(洪武帝) in the Ming dynasty, and it is based on DaMingLing(大明令), DaMingJili(大明集禮), HongwuLizhi(洪武禮制), ZhusiZhizhang(諸司職掌), DaMingHuidian(大明 會典), MingTaizuShilu(明太祖實錄), and MingShi(明史). Official's gongbok is consisted of clothes, belt(帶), bokdu, scepter(笏), and black shoes. The system of official's gongbok wa schanged through three stages. First, the system of the Yuan dynasty(元代) was maintained in January, 1368, which was the first year of the emperor's reign. Second, the gongbok system was established in November, 1368. The system stated that the clothes had to be red-colored(赤色) regardless of rank and the belt was divided into okdai(玉帶), seodai (犀帶), gumdai(金帶), and kwangsoeundai (光素銀帶). Third, the system was revised in June, 1391, which was the 24th year of his reign. According to the rank, the clothing colors were divided into scarlet(緋色), blue(靑色), and green(綠色). The belt was divided into okdai, seodai, gumdai, and ogaggai(烏角帶). 'Hongmu26nyunjung(洪武26年定)' recorded on the Wanli's edition(萬曆本) of the DaMingHuidian has the meaning of ZhusiZhizhang regulations.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.233-252
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• 2021

The Gwan ceremony (冠禮) is a coming-of-age ceremony that takes place through traditional Gwan (冠: the hat) and clothes in the traditional era. The rite is performed by wearing hats and clothes three consecutive times (三加禮). It was an important rite which meant that underage children were formally recognized as members of society. This study examined costumes of people who participated in various coming-of-age ceremony rites in the Ming dynasty imperial court of China. For the research data, this study mainly used authentic chronicles (正史), codes of law and books on Ming dynasty rituals. This study examined the costumes used in the coming-of-age ceremony for the emperor, Prince Imperial, Emperor's eldest grandson, and emperor's sons. The results of this study were divided into an analysis of the document structure, institutional changes by time, characteristics of costumes, and characteristics of the rite. Of particular note in their ceremony, the emperor is presupposed to be a 'human already full-equipped with virtue', which means that the costume is worn only once. It is a case in which the emperor's absolute identity is revealed through the rite and costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.204-221
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• 2021

The morning ritual was a rite whereby a morning audience with the emperor was held for feudal lords sovereigns and subjects living in the precincts, monarchs or foreign envoys of the outskirts of the capital, and other ethnic group. Distinction between the main and subordinate rituals, changes in the ceremony according to the times, and the position or rank of those participating in the rite, were factors that directly affected the costumes worn for ritual. Accordingly, in this paper, the costumes worn by members of the Ming dynasty (emperor, prince imperial, prince) were examined in terms of the period and detailed ceremonies with a focus on the morning ritual and costume systems presented in the official historical records. Through this study, only Mian-fu (冕服) and Pi-bian-fu (皮弁服) were defined by the costume system ase costumes worn in the morning ritual. However, through comparative analysis with the morning ritual system, it was confirmed that Tongtian-guan-fu (通天冠服), Yishan-guan-fu (翼善冠服), and Bianfu (便服: slightly casual wear) were also worn. It is worth noting that the color of Gunlong-pao (袞龍袍) was differentiated according to status; the Emperor wore yellow, the Prince Imperial and lower levels wore red, which was the traditional perception of academia. However, following confirmation of the custom costume for the morning ritual, it was confirmed that the color of this differentiation appeared during the 3rd year of Emperor Yongle of Ming (1305). Previously five traditional colors (blue, red, yellow, white, and black) were used for the season.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.554-566
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• 2006

The purpose of this paper is to understand the ethnic characteristics of official uniforms of Qing(淸)) by comparing the rank systems of official uniforms of Ming(명(明)) and Qing(淸)) dynasties. As research documents, Dai-Ming-Huidian(大明會典)) and Qing-Huidian-Tu(淸明會圖)) have been used. This research shows that there are many traditional characteristics of Manchurians (滿族)) in the official uniforms of Qing(淸)) dynasty. The characteristics are as follows: First, Qing dynasty made their own official uniform based on the traditional Manchurians(滿族)) costume, and added rank system on it. Second, Qing dynasty used the animal's leather as the material of official uniforms and distinguished the level of the uniforms according to the rerity value of rareness, color, and warmth of the leather. Third, Qing dynasty used pearls produced in Manchuria as the highest level, as opposed to jades and rhinoceros horns of Ming. Fourth, Qing dynasty eliminated the animal's rank system of twelve patterns which had been used for whole history of China, but the Emperor is the only man who is able to use twelve patterns. Qing dynasty made her own pattern system of standstill/moving dragons and standstill/moving pythons. Fifth, Qing dynasty used the rank system by colors in the order of yellow, red, and blue consistently over various official uniforms, while Ming used different color orders for different uniforms.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.21-32
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• 2015

Sajik, the altar of land and grain was treated as one of the most important national ritual facilities by the Joseon dynasty and the Ming dynasty because it symbolized the legitimacy of a dynasty, and its architectural ordonnance was arranged strictly by the government. But when the Joseon government considered to reconstruct its national Sajik altar in Hanyang during the Sejong period, they found the new architectural ordonnance for local Sajik altars recorded in "Hongwulizhi(洪武禮制)" had been published by the Ming government was hard to adopt, because it was too narrow and totally different from the traditional style. Above all things, they doubt of there was other architectural ordonnance for kingdoms, not for local governments. King Sejong ordered to investigate the origin form and former examples, and tried to get other ritual documents of authority published by the Ming government such as "Damingjili(大明集禮)". After several academic researches and intense debates, they decided to create a new architectural ordonnance for their national Sajik altar, its form was in accord with the traditional style and its size was in accord with the new ordonnance. But they did not know there had already been the architectural ordonnance for the kingdom in the Ming dynasty. Because the first emperor of the Ming dynasty had changed its Sajik ritual system several times, even the whole country of the Ming dynasty also had gone through chaos on this issue even after his death. Consequentially, the official documentation works had been made partially, there was no a complete document on this issue even in the Ming government.

• 한국문헌정보학회지
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• 제48권1호
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• pp.97-116
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• 2014

이 연구는 명나라 영락제의 명으로 편찬한 <사서대전>의 유포와 우리나라에 전래 된 이후 복각 간행된 판본에 대해 분석한 것이다. 명나라 영락제가 황위를 찬탈한 이후 태조의 유훈을 받든다는 명분을 들어 호광(胡廣) 등에게 편찬하도록 칙명을 내리자 불과 10개월만인 영락 13(1415)년 9월 완성되었다. 그 후 명나라 내부(內府)에서 간행한 대전본(大全本)은 세종 대에 모두 3차에 걸쳐 전래되었다. 세종은 명나라에서 입수된 제1차 전래본을 저본으로 세종 9-10(1427-1428)년 사이에 경상도, 전라도, 강원도 3도 지방에서 각각 분담하여 판각을 완료하였다. 조선에 전래된 이후 유포 현상을 조사 분석한 결과, 명 전대본(大全本)을 그대로 복각한 판본이 조선에서 대략 18회 이상 간행되었으며, 그 중 현재 50종만이 남아 있다는 사실이 밝혀졌다. 이 현존본 50종을 대상으로 분석한 결과, 대체로 임란으로 서적이 급속도로 망실되었기 때문에 이를 시급히 보충하기 위해 주로 서적의 수요가 시급했던 경기와 경상 지방을 중심으로 집중적으로 간행 보급되었던 것으로 파악하였다.

• 산업진흥연구
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.73-77
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• 2018

This paper written by Choi Bu based on "Piaohailu". This book consists of 3 volumes and it is his travelogue; Choi Bu has departed from Jeju Island to Naju, Jeolla province in the end of 1487, but it drifted on his way, so arrived to Zhejiang Province, China(Mid-Ming Dynasty) in early 1488. In this place, he interrogated with a reason for Japan pirates, but he released soon. And his waterway journey from Hangzhou to Beijing, he had received the award in Beijing which is the grace of the Emperor;and his land route journey from Beijing through Liaodong to Uiju, Pingan Province. Afterwards, this book had been translated in Japanese, English etc; and it had been awarded an alias of 'Chaoxian's Marco Polo'.From the description of the characters in the Mid-Ming Dynasty in the work of Pyohae-rok, the essay makes a study on the knowledge of ancient Korean scholars to China, and looks at the different social and political aspects and characteristics of the Ming Dynasty from the eyes of Korean scholars. It summarizes that when we face history squarely, it is important to refer to and draw on the foreign works recorded by ancient Korean scholars.

• 복식
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• 제31권
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• pp.61-73
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• 1997

Kon-myuh was worn by the ancient Chinese and Korean rulers as ceremonial dress during special rituals such as worshipping heaven and ancestors marriage or funerals. kon-myun consists of two major parts-Myun and kon-bok (the main bodypiece) as well as other articles of clothing(skirt footgear etc), There were regulations set in ancient books describing in detail the make of the kon-myun number of ryu and symbol to be used all which applied to each ruler depending on rank and status. This study is aimed at examining the consistency of the korean and Chinese in following the regula-tions as seen in relics which have been recovered from the past. Based on historical findings it seems that Korean Kon-myun came to Korea from China during the Three Kingdoms period. It was also worn in the Koryo and Chosun Dynas-ties and the Taehan Empire. In studying Konmyun in Korea the researcher studied a book from the early Chosun dynasty, Kukjo-oryeuiseory and a book from the late Chosun Dynasty Kukjo-sangrye-bopyun to find the guidelines and rules applying to the Kon-myun tradition. Slight difference were found across time in the supplementary articles of clothing as seen in Uigwe Pokwan-doseols explanations and drawings of Kon-myun. The researcher used uigwes of funerals of kings of the Chosun Dynasty and observed change over this period of time. However there was a clear consist-ency: the king's Kon-myun consisted of 9ryu-myun 9chang-bok while that of the prince consisted of 8ryu-myun 7chang-bok. For the Taechan Empire the researcher used Tae-han Yae-jun which shows the emperor's kon-myun to have consisted of 12ryu-myun 12chang-bok. To study how the regulations were put into practice relics were uncovered from the periods being studied. A portrait of King Ik-Jong remnants from King Ko-jong's Kon-bok and a photograph of Emperor Sun-jong all were in close adherence to the regulations outlined in the books. In China Kon-myun was worn by emperors from the Han to the Ching Dynastices. The researcher investigated Kon-myun es-pecially in the Ming Dynasty. The Kon-myun regulations as read in Tai-ming-hui-chan changed through all four periods. To study the faithfulness of practice to low Ding-ling the tomb of Emperor Shin-jong who ruled during a period of the Ming Dynasty was unearthed and the remains of the Emperor's Kon-myun were analyzed. The Kon-myun consisted of 12ryu-myuh 18chang-bok and there were other differences I color symbols and wearing method when compared to the regulations. It can be concluded that the Chinese Kon-myun tradition was not in strict adher-ence to the regulations established by law books. This is in contrast to the Korean Kon-myun tradition which showed little devi-ation. Further study is needed to understand why there was this difference in tradition and ritual.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2004년도 International Conference & Exhibition
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• pp.41-44
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• 2004