• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.56-68
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• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.42-56
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to review the literatures and the wall paintings of the ancient tombs of Koguryo in an effort to try to understand the characteristics of the culture of dyeing in Koguryo. The research findings follow: 1. The colors that were in vogue in Koguryo are five cardinal colors (red, blue, white, black, and yellow) and compound colors, like purple and green. Those colors were used in some or all parts of the clothing and even on some parts of the body. 2. Some clothing of Koguryo as shown in the wall paintings were made with a single and solid color by dip dyeing method. But the majority of the clothing had a variety of patterns. Among the patterns, the geometrical dot pattern took the majority. 3. The dyeing techniques used in Koguryo were printing, yarn dyeing, embroidery, wax resist dyeing, drawing and painting. The development of yarn dyeing method, weaving with silk-threads dyed in various colors, enabled to produce Geum fabrics, which were used for the upper classes' clothing. 4. The esthetic features represented in the colors of Koguryo include the beauty of contrast coloring, preference for red, preference for geometrical patterns, and the harmony of yin and yang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.10-21
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• 2009

The shape of floral pattern in the period of Rococo are a pots, a flower and ribbon style, a flower and a stripe style, a lace style and a scene style etc, and also in that time an apperance of softness of curved line, delicacy and smoth line, irregular and unrestraint line, motive of tiny and extra ordinarily, little bunch of flowers, and stripe style was a feature. The style of presentation were a presentation of fixed style such effect as lace, and a presentation of realistically style emphasized a massiveness and a cubic effect, and also used a natural color, and the presentation of abstract expressed like imagined anything and fancied. Weaving expressed delicate, brilliant, fantastic, and an atmosphere with elegant. embroidery was expressed in creation with emphasized in reality. Printing was fantastic with exotic in development of chintz due to effection of orient. The based on a salon civilization, the refind beauty of taste of royalty gave a refinded feeling with over affectionate in preference with a softness of curved line, and a motive of tiny and extra ordinarily. The classical beauty of elegant was realistic in being concentrated on building up blance and homony. The natural beauty of romantic was in being devoted the theme with soft and fantastic.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.1 s.215
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• pp.101-113
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate and compare the characteristics of the motifs on cultural goods in In-Sa-Dong Street, Seoul, with those in Art Street, City Hall, Kwang-ju. For this study, 607 cultural goods were collected from the two cities: 265 in Seoul and 342 in Kwang-ju. Total cultural goods were classified by accessories, decoration pieces, stationery and ceramics and were studied by repetition patterns, motifs types, representative techniques, and representative types. The results were as follows. First, for repetition patterns of motifs, there were 219 simple repetition patterns in Seoul, and 289 in Kwang-ju, and 46 compound repetition patterns in Seoul, and 53 in Kwang-ju. The ratio of simple repetition pattern was higher than that of compound repetition pattern in both cities. Second, for motif types, floral, animal, letter, and graphic motifs were used far more frequently than any other motif types. Third, for representative techniques, embroidery was far more frequently used than any other representative techniques. Metallic crafts, chil-bo and paper techniques were also favored. Fourth, for representative types, realistic types were more common than abstract types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.41-53
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• 2009

This study analyzed expression types of dot patterns and derived out inherent characteristics to provide fundamental resources for advancement of high value added creative designs. As a result of the study, Firstly, the circular motive was used to form silhouettes or as a symbol of a decoration. Secondly, a simple form and color dot pattern was used to create one side, or a circular shaped accessory was used to be recognized as a construction line or a decoration line. Thirdly, textile printing is mainly used but handicraft and decorative images were used to add vitality through piece technique, embroidery, collage, cut-out, patch work, etc. Fourthly, different circular motives were integrated, partitioned and duplicated for abstract geometrical images. Fifthly, variations were added by mixing different dot patterns that are arranged regularly and irregularly in different sizes and gaps creating compounded designs with handicraft touches, different angles or on top of each other. Sixthly, hybrid images were created with rearrangement of dot patterns and by adding floral shapes, stripes or other abstract and geometrical shapes. Such various and creative attempts construct new formative beauty in fashion design and I believe that it can establish the development of unique images that satisfies the taste of today's consumers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.627-633
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• 2006

This study examined the kinds, expression, techniques and arrangement of patterns for the traditional women's costume from 1995 to 2002 in North Korea. And the results were compared with South Korean. Conclusions are as follows : In the kinds of patterns the natural plant patterns were much more frequently used in North Korea. These tendency was same to South Korea. And the geometric patterns were more frequently used in South Korea. According to frequency in the expression of patterns, it was the realistic, geometric, stylized shape in North Korea. To the contrary it was the stylized, geometric, realistic shape in South Korea. In terms of decorative techniques, not only the traditional embroidery, gold leaf, multicolored stripes, but also modern collages, painting, beads, applique, flounce, ruffle were used in North Korea. Modern techniques were found comparatively a lot in North Korea, traditional techniques were found comparatively a lot in South Korea. In terms of arrangement of patterns, the modern arrangement was much more frequently used. And localized type of modern arrangement was found comparatively a lot in South and North Korea. Therefore traditional beauty was generally expressed by natural patterns, realistic shape and modern beauty was generally expressed by modern techniques and arrangement of patterns in North Korea.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.405-416
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• 2006

We, in this thesis, examined the similarities and differences of bat patterns in China and Korea, along with a consideration of how two peoples understood bats and how their understanding of bats developed and also influenced the bat patterns. As for research period, the Ming(明) dynasty and the Qing(淸) dynasty in China and the Chosun dynasty in Korea were considered. The subjects of this study included clothes, personal ornaments, and embroidery. This research was done by comparing and analyzing the similarities and differences of two countries' bat patterns. The results of comparing and analyzing Chinese and Korean bat patterns were as follows: In terms of similarity, people of two countries understood bat patterns as the symbol of happiness. Therefore, they were used in clothes, personal ornaments, and daily necessities. In terms of difference, bat patterns of two countries had different shapes. In China, colorful and realistic single bat patterns were shown as intensive composition, whereas in Korea plain and simple bat patterns were used. These differences resulted from different way of understanding of bat patterns. It can be concluded that the bat patterns can be a great cultural commodity with high commercial values, if the traditional pattern is used as a unique element of the Oriental designs and altered and developed to attract consumers' attention.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.131-144
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the type of stitch and designs of knitwears using handcraft ornament techniques. This paper will also go on to develop and merchandize high value generated by design development. Knit is largely divided into weft knit stitch and warp knit stitch which are respectively woven by weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine. For clothing, circular knit and flat knit are frequently used while plain stitch, rib stitch and purl stitch are perceived as the basic stitches. Denbigh stitch, cord stitch, atlas stitch, which belong to tricot stitch, are the basic of warp knit stitch. There are also numerous fancy fabrics adapting the previously mentioned stitches and these are made into solid pattern and yarn dyed pattern. The handcraft ornament techniques in knitwears design are embroidery, beads, sequin, stone, printing, applique and fringe, etc. By applying these techniques thus creative expression, which cannot be expressed in other fashion items, is feasible. The women's knitwears are tries by mixed and various techniques, develope to high value knitwears, escaping from simple and practical items.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.47-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to grasp the meaning of retro-fashion, to research the formative feature characteristic and aesthetic values. Retro-fashion is one of the expression of spatiotemporal-eclecticism, The formative of modern Retro-fashion are as follows: First, Retro-fashion based on spatiotemporal-eclecticism have been come from 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s style of time, and the asia, africa, middle east, latin America in region. Second, the design inspiration and technique is used more primitive crafts and decoration like handcrafted material, handmade ornaments as dyeing and embroidery of bohemian, jacqwuard pattern, oriental beads, applique, new hippie touch, patchwork, smocking, primitive button, woods, ethnic motives. Third, modern Retro-fashion is reflection of human feelings as nostalgia from the past, it supplies the sense of fashion creativity and new ideas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.