• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1255-1263
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• 2008

Study on Hwal-ot, woman's wedding robe of the Joseon Dynasty, has been limited to the Princess Bock-on's Hwal-ot and some folk remains. In this study, I tried to identify formative characteristics of Hwal-ot by studying embroidery design patterns in the royal Hwal-ot. On Mar 26, 2007, I inspected total of 15 pieces of embroidery design patterns for Hwal-ot held at the National Palace Museum of Korea. I classified them into three types of Hwal-ot by considering characteristics in embroidery design patterns as well as composition of embroidery design patterns held by the private. For the Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type I, there is a calligraphy called "Embroidery Design Pattern of Red Long Robe for leo-dong Palace", which is presumed to be the embroidery design pattern of Princess Deok-on, the third daughter of King Sunjo and a little sister to Princess Bock-on. Its patterns are very similar to that of Princess Bock-on's, with similar flower patterns and treasure patterns, as well as overall stripy structure. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type II maintains the same flower patterns and butterfly patterns as in the type I, but does not have the striped decorative. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type III has illustrative design with waves and mountain at the background and a pair of water birds flying around lotus. In particular, the type III design has a nine phoenix pattern at the front part of the robe, illustrating nine baby phoenixes (four in the left, five in the right) under a mother phoenix, which is closer to characteristics found in the Hwal-ot embroidery design patterns at the end of the Joseon dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.39-47
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• 2008

Korean embroidery is the long historical industrial arts of real life and has handed down Korean sentiment up to now. Korean traditional embroidered pattern is designed to wish someone's health and luck, who uses the embroidery on the clothes and the goods in real life. Especially, the ten longevity symbols' design is represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, cloud, water, crane, rock, turtle, pine tree, the elixir of life and deer; these 10 symbols show how ancient Korean believe and wish perpetual youth. However, fiber material used embroidery relic has difficulty in preserving for long period compared to other relic descended from historical events for long time and their preserved state isn't so good owing to have been used directly in the real life. Therefore, it is essentially embossed to preserve the embroidery relic and pattern, and make DB for the data. With preservation of the pictures about the handicraft, it's necessary to preserve embroidery technique and make DB through digital imagination. Through the process, we can apply Korean embroidery image to cul-duct package and digital image related field, and it will be helpful to make the tradition popular. In this study, through the research for the embroidery technique applied pattern on the embroidery relic of ten longevity symbols, we'll establish the cultural identification of Korean embroidery image and then develop a worldwide Korean image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.838-847
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• 2011

The object of this study is as follows. First, according to the silhouette of clothes, I will search the relationship with the embroidery design. Second, I will investigate the relation of coloration about the clothes color and embroidery color. Third, I will search the relation with the image in clothes and embroidery design characteristic. The data acquisition is selected to the total 447 pictures of embroidery clothing design from the www.style.com, www.samsungdesign.net which are the related information site. The data are limited from S/S season in 2004 till F/W season in 2008 in the Paris, Milano, and New York collection. The analytical method was made through the analyze method and statistical method. First, on the relation with the clothes silhouette and embroidery design, if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the X-shaped or A-line silhouette in the one-piece and dress, the image which is elegant and feminine can be expressed. if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the H-line silhouette in jacket and court, the mannish image can be expressed. Second, the embroidery color showed up as the contrast combination of the monotone when the clothes color was the monochrome. And the embroidery color showed up as the tone in which is bright and sober when clothes color had 2 or 3 or 4. So, if the embroidery color is utilized as the similar color scheme, it will be effective. Third, if the embroidery technique of the one-piece and dress is utilized as the the satin stitch technique and the bloom and leaf motive being stylized pattern is used in the all-over and border pattern, It will be effective to express the romantic/feminine, ethnic/folklore, active, and classic image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.123-134
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• 2023

Fashion design, CAD production, and the use of digital software can shorten the time and production processes in the fashion industry, but there are still many limitations in how to similarly express textile textures. Having this awareness, how to implement the visual effects of textile texture similar to that of the real world in the virtual world is one of the major exploration tasks in the fashion industry. Therefore, this study aims to analyze examples of embroidery techniques in Christian Dior collections and explore how embroidery techniques in 3D CLO fashion design can express the texture of real clothes more similarly by creating virtual works through 3D samples and 3D CLO software. First, the analysis criteria and theoretical basis of this study were derived through a literature review on fashion textile embroidery techniques, identifying types and characteristics of embroidery techniques, and classifying them into 12 types. Second, photos of the Dior 2017-2023 SS/FW Ready-to-Wear collections were collected and analyzed through the case analysis VOGUE site. Third, it presents the production of 3D CLO works by deriving a method of implementing embroidery techniques through the design of sample textile embroidery techniques using substances 3D sample software. The study's has some limitations. First, in 3D CLO fashion design, the needle gap for embroidery must be widened to see the thread pattern. Second, by reducing the number of needles, it is necessary to imitate the actual embroidery effect. Third, it is judged that it will be effective to lengthen the thread and adjust the thickness of the thread. Fourth, the thickness of the entire embroidery pattern must be increased to enable a three-dimensional texture.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.51-59
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• 2024

Qiang ethnic group is one of the fifty-six ethnic minorities in China, and Qiang embroidery, as an important achievement of Qiang's intangible cultural heritage, is the precipitation and testimony of the history and culture of the Qiang ethnic group. However, with the development of the times, traditional and ancient Qiang embroidery is facing a dilemma due to the problem of a single form of communication. Therefore, it is necessary to add new communication media for Qiang embroidery to help it spread and develop better. In this paper, we extract the core representative patterns of Qiang embroidery, use the "shape grammars" as the rules of morphological changes, and generate new decorative pattern patterns with the characteristics of Qiang embroidery by adding, deleting, mirroring, rotating, and other relevant rules of changes, and combine the new patterns with the rules of formal beauty to combine the layout, which is then applied in the design of different cultural creations and products. The new patterns are combined with the rules of formal beauty and applied in the design of different cultural and creative products. To provide a quantitative method for the digital protection of Qiang embroidery in the new era of Chinese traditional art, and also provide new ideas for the industrialization application.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.88-100
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• 2017

This study is for the textiles of at Sun Am Temple and characteristic of embroidery. Tak Ui was composed of orange body and green upper cover, and had no strings. The body plate was covered with embroidery, with Gauze base, and upper part was appliqued, by cutting dragon pattern, cloud pattern on satin damask. The thread for embroidery was silk floss, silk twisted thread, rapped gold thread, and rapped silk thread. For padding, it was used cotton thread in the part of dragon's scales. It was used satin stitch, outline stitch, split stitch, couching, and counted stitch, etc. as method of embroidery. In particular, it embroidered counted stitch of diamond shape consecutively on the whole of Tak Ui, it does so with counted stitch of same effect of weaving Brocade in the part of cloud. Besides, it is one of the characteristic for couching rapped silk thread. Such lead embroidery is the popular method in the Ming dynasty of China, in the 16~17 century. The design of Tak Ui is dragon, cloud, and wave in the theme. In the center, 'Seong-su-man-nyeon' was placed on the heads of dragon. This is similar to Dragon Robe of Four-petalled medallion patterns, period of Ming dynasty in China. Therefore, it confirmed that Tak Ui was remodeled the embroidered textiles, made for royal robe, originally, with Tak Ui at temple.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.85-98
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• 2009

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yo tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery pattern has a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse and splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yo tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and design patterns through related books, research papers, internet sites, and etc. The results of the paper are as follows. The Yo tribe's costumes consist of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the color of the costumes is all black, there are splendid embroidery decorations with the colors of red, orange, yellow, green and white on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs, or a part of a trousers and aprons. The types of the patterns represented in the Yo tribe's traditional costumes are related to nature, ancestor worship, ethnic legends, history, religion, and agricultural lives. The method by which the Yo tribe expressed on their costumes is a "peach-blossom" technique, which uses cross-shaped embroidery with wrap and woof threads. Because it is not apt to express delicate and detailed patterns, the Yo tribe's patterns tend to show abstract and geometrical forms.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.47-59
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• 2021

This study aims to provide inspiration and methods for menswear design by analyzing elements for men's fashion using flower images. The results are as follows: Men's fashion types with flower images were categorized as classic tailored, casual tailored, casual wear, sports-outdoor. The order of frquency was casual tailored, casual, classic tailored, and sports outdoor. For the classic tailored type, the flower images are related with an X-line silhouette, and the arrangement methods, such as a scattered patterns, one-point patterns, and surface techniques, such as printing and embroidery were used, and similar color or monochromatic schemes appeared sequentially. For the casual tailored type, the flower images are related to an H-line silhouette, arrangement methods such as a scattered pattern, panel pattern, and surface techniques, such as print, embroidery, and jacquard were used, similar color and accent color schemes appeared sequentially. For the casual type, the flower images are related to H-line and Y-line silhouettes, and arrangement methods, such as a scattered pattern, all-round continuous pattern, and panel pattern, and surface techniques, such as print, jacquard, embroidery, and patchwork were used, similar color and contrast color schemes appeared sequentially. For the sports outdoor type, the flower image were related to A-line and H-line silhouettes, arrangement methods, such as a scattered pattern and all-round continuous pattern, and surface techniques, such as print and jacquard were used, monochromatic scheme and contrast color schemes appeared sequentially. Therefore, the flower images in men's fashion were applied to various design elements, and displayed an interesting result, different from conventional design approach.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.10-20
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• 2010

In this research, by yearly subdividing and analyzing the characteristic of the embroidery design according to the garment item with a season the high value added is raised for a differencing and high performance conversion of the high fashion design and there is an object. In 2004, when the total 474 chapter was selected in S/S season till F/W season in 2008 and the embroidery design characteristic according to the kind of an item the analyzing method and statistical method was used. As to the first, and the embroidery design in which it follows of the garment item showed the stylized, and the plant motive of the geometric pattern by an edge and composite arrangement in an one-piece and blouse with the satin stitch and cut work technique. A monotone and the bright tone were used. The second, and the season different difference, the out line stitch, an applique, and the cut work technique S/S season were a feature. A plant, and the animal motive were expressed as the front arrangement and the monotone of the achromatic color appeared. As to F/W season, the long short stitch and satin stitch techniques were with the characteristic profit. The abstract motive showed up as the edge alignment and composite arrangement. And the plain tone and the monotone of the chromatics combination color are used. In the third, and the chronological difference, an applique the embroidery technique showed up in the out line stitch, and 2007 years in 2004 years and 2006 years. And the sentence motive of the animal, and the abstract motive the embroidery motive are embossed in 2005 years and 2006 years in 2008 years.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.139-156
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of traditional Korean patterns appearing on fashion collections from 1990 to 2005. Traditional Korean patterns have been used as an important element to express a Korean image since the 1990s. Frequently used patterns included several kinds of geometric patterns, plant patterns(flower, peony, Four Gracious Plants), and Chinese character patterns. Specifically, since the 2000s, animal patterns such as tiger, Chinese phoenix, and giraffe which were not often used, plant patterns such as arabesque, peony, and flower, and a variety of Chinese character patterns appeared. For the expression techniques, while embroidery and printing was often used in the 1990s, they became varied into printing, beading, embroidery, gold and silver leaf, and hand painting after 2000 as a result of designers' active attempts. The aesthetic characteristics of fashion design with its focus on traditional patterns were analyzed. First, Chinese character patterns and phoenix pattern which were mainly used for a court suit, and show the excellence and unique originality of Korean culture. Second, traditional Korean patterns directly and indirectly imply symbolistic significance of lucky sign and illustrate the use of various lucky sign patterns. Third, traditional Korean patterns such as arabesque or peony were expressed by colorful embroidery to add decorative beauty. Finally, traditional Korean patterns reflect a naturalistic worldview and are completed finished as the design.