• Journal of Electrical Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.364-371
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• 2015

In this study, we developed a feasible structure of a textile-based inductive sensor using a machine embroidery method, and applied it to a non-contact type vital sign sensing device based on the principle of magnetic-induced conductivity. The mechanical heart activity signals acquired through the inductive sensor embroidered with conductive textile on fabric were compared with the Lead II ECG signals and with respiration signals, which were simultaneously measured in every case with five subjects. The analysis result showed that the locations of the R-peak in the ECG signal were highly associated with sharp peaks in the signals obtained through the textile-based inductive sensor (r=0.9681). Based on the results, we determined the feasibility of the developed textile-based inductive sensor as a measurement device for the heart rate and respiration characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.20-46
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• 2003

This study analyzes the garment decorations in the history of western costume based on their kinds and techniques, and consider the beginning and the development of costume decoration. The purpose is to promote a historical understanding of modern ornamentation. Based on the theoretical background concerning the origin and purpose of costume decoration, its symbolism and its relationship with images, this study classified the techniques and kinds of ornament and considered each costumes by their decoration. 1. The ornament was originated from the primitive custom of coloring the skin for the purpose of protecting the body, symbolizing the tribe, indicating the class, and threatening the enemies. As this custom changed into the decoration on the body as a form of tattoos or physical transformations, the practice of ornament seems to begin as a display of one's authority and wealth as well as a human instinct to decorate oneself beautifully. 2. The basic purpose of ornament is to look attractive by decorating oneself with ornaments. Addition of decorative design to the garment tends to complement the practical aspects of the whole clothing, and elevate its value and originality. 3. From the past, ornament has been used as a symbol of wealth and status. Originated from the desire to display one´s authority and power and to receive respect from others, the people's interest in ornament have rising. 4. The kinds and techniques of ornament can be classified into the structural and applied decorations. The former is decorating a part of a garment, such as the neckline, cellar, cuffs, or pockets. The latter includes braids, laces and embroideries. These ornament are diverse in their details and techniques, and should consider both functional aspects of clothing and its decorative functions emphasizing the aesthetic expressions. In the above considerations, we can see that costume ornament was most splendid in the premodern times and it was the simplest in the ancient times. And we also saw the possibility that decorative techniques could be created almost limitlessly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.482-490
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• 2013

This study suggests a suitable logo design application of a three colors LED light source and flexible plastic optical fiber (POF). In this study, characteristic relevant brightness of (according to the embodiment conditions of the flexible POF for logo design) for smart clothing were analyzed through two experiments. The suitable conditions of the logo design for three colors of light source were observed in 'Experiment 1'. The angle of $80^{\circ}$ to $100^{\circ}$ and the length of 8cm to 16cm appeared a more suitable condition for green-colored and red-colored light sources. The angle of $80^{\circ}$ to $100^{\circ}$ at a length of 8cm to 12cm appeared a more suitable condition for a blue-colored light source. In 'Experiment 2', a 'Klavika' in small letter was selected as suitable logo design for the application POF. The alphabet was separated by a morpheme, which is the minimal linguistic unit. All alphabets were classified into sixteen morphemes. The luminance of fourteen morphemes (realized by the embroidery method) were measured and analyzed. Subsequently, eight morphemes appeared to show a relatively equal luminance of $3-4cd/m^2$ in a green-colored light source, $2-3cd/m^2$ in red-colored light source, and $2cd/m^2$ in a blue-colored light source. Four of the fourteen morphemes, showed a 20% brighter level of luminance compared to the eight morphemes above, the cast of combination of green or red light source. This result indicates that a flexible POF with 20% less luminance are believed more suitable for four morphemes combined with a green or red light source. The results of this study provide fundamental data for further approaches to clothing logo design for the application of a flexible POF.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.109-124
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• 2018

This study focused on the accessory of clothes of minority groups in Yunnan province to further the research about specific accessories' development in the future. Among the minorities in Yunnan, this study centralized characteristics of ornaments, hats and belts among five minority groups such as the Bai, Zhuang, Hani, Dai, and the Zang as representatives to study in detail because these five ethnicities have a relatively long history and plentiful information. The results are as follows: First, exaggeration means large gorgeous patterns that attract attention. Generally, there are many natural resources that can be used in places where these minority groups live such as gems, gold, silver shells and animals' horns, bone, teeth and the like. Headdress includes combs, loops, hairpins and other similar articles. Second, nature is a very fundamental part that people rely on for existence and development. The production and living that people need in life all depend on nature. The design of accessories is made from animal forms and patterns of clothes are presented through embroidery and wax printing. Designers always tried to add natural elements to their works. Third, symbolism consists of two aspects: One is the people's imagination, which related to actual materials, and the other is the product of imagination that provides better conditions to inspire people when they design. In China, most minority groups believe in Buddhism. The symbols in the clothing show their devout faith. Even the method of wear has many special implications like the use of accessories and length of clothing. The pattern of dragons and use of golden, red and other colors all have a proper symbolic significance in modern designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.46-66
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• 2016

This thesis aims to analyze the costume changes according to the ideological transition through the portraits of Napoleon Bonaparte. This study selected 32 color pictures of Napoleon, which was taken during his time as a general to his ascension as Emperor (1785-1815). The study qualitatively analyzed the traits and costume elements in view of the items, color and ornaments of the costume, while studying the effects of the ideological transition. The costumes of Napoleon were categorized into three parts: general, governor and Emperor. Firstly, Napoleon most frequently wore the navy uniforms when taking the portraits as a general. The uniform gave Napoleon the image of strength, youth and intelligence, which reflected the ideology of enlightenment. Secondly, the red-colored administrator uniform, combined with a military coat with culotte, was worn to make the governor look intelligent, which would ascribe to the ideological demand of the enlightenment. Lastly, his portraits as emperor showed him in long white tunica, combined with red-colored coronation cape ornamented with embroidery, ermine fur, and the crown of laurel. This costume denoted both the enlightenment and also the neoclassical trend aspiring for the return to the Greek and Roman era. In this way, the portrait of Napoleon might be expected to reflect the periodical change of the ideology through describing the transition of the costumes. It might be evident that his image of the strong general changed to that of an intelligent governor, which was in demand when the enlightenment idea became popular. When Napoleon became the emperor, his image changed into that of a Roman emperor, which implies that neoclassical ideas were used as source of influence.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.117-129
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• 2009

This study is to examine unmarried women's preferences about wedding dresses. This is researched with a survey of 300 unmarried women in Ulsan and Seoul. The survey inquires their preferences of silhouettes, necklines, materials, and details in wedding dress. 290 valid questionnaires are analyzed statistically. Statistical analysis is used average, frequency, and crosstabs with SPSS10.0. The results of this study are as below; As for an income level, the high-income brackets in Ulsan preferred X silhouette, whereas in Seoul H silhouette. The low-income brackets in both areas preferred X silhouette. In necklines, boat neckline was preferred in both areas regardless of incomes. In materials, in Ulsan, the high-income brackets preferred silk, but the low-income brackets in Ulsan preferred satin. In Seoul, silk was preferred regardless of incomes. In details, the high-income brackets in both areas preferred beads and ribbon. In the low-income brackets, embroidery decorations were preferred in Ulsan, whereas beads, jewels and ribbons in Seoul. As for personalities, X silhouette was preferred in most personalities, A silhouette in some personalities in Seoul. In necklines, boat neckline is preferred in most personalities. In materials, silk was preferred in most personalities. In details, beads and jewels were preferred in most personalities. As for ages, in most ages, X silhouette was preferred in Ulsan, and X and A silhouettes in Seoul. In necklines, in most ages, boat neckline was preferred in both areas. In materials, silk was preferred in most ages. In details, beads and jewels were preferred in most ages.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.79-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze designs of exhibition clothing in terms of the use of Korean image, to review objectively contents about the use of traditional image, understand external elements of works, and give directions and basic data for future works. This study selected the total 250 works as the subject of this study among the collected data. This study classified and examined the use of Korean image found in exhibition clothing according to period, item, line and form, material, technique of expression and accessary between 1996 and 2004. The results of analysis are as follows (1) The most artworks were comprised in adaptation were Choson costume. (2) Most of them were clothing works for female. The item of chima were the most preferred in use. (3) The straight lines are used more frequently than curved lines. Forms of skirts were applied to those of silhouettes, H and A form were common. (4) In terms of materials, traditional materials such as silk, linen and cotton were commonly used. (5) Geometric patterns and plant pattern were found more often than others. (6) In terms of techniques of expression, patchwork was most frequent, quilting, embroidery and pleating were ranked second, third and fourth. (7) In accessaries and other item, gorom were most common and norigae were ranked second. (8) As Korean image has been expressed by fine parts of traditional costumes, the traditional living item, and local symbols, the range of works are becoming wider.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.131-139
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• 2010

The ten traditional symbols of longevity are represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, water, cloud, rock, pine tree, elixir plant, tortoise, crane and deer. each subjects symbolizing longevity had used in isolation. unlike China and Japan, the ten symbols of longevity became a fixed form and was widely used in paintings, household effects and clothes in Korea. therefore, It will be a meaningful study how the ten symbols of longevity, as one of subjects in painting, changed into a pattern on clothes. The ten symbols of longevity was affected by various philosophies and religion. especially, it laid emphasis on order by Yin-Yang and the Five Elements theory. the order was applied to arrange each subjects and use colors carefully. the sun colored with red and was on the upper. the pine tree colored with green meaned tree and was on the left. the earth and the mountain meaned the soil and was on the center. the rock meaned the iron and was on the right. the water meaned the water and was on the bottom. The subjects of the study were embroideries like spectacle cases, spoon cases and pouches. the scope of study was the Latter Part of the Joseon Dynasty because there are more relics in the Joseon Dynasty than any other times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.133-147
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• 2006

This paper deals with utilization of traditional Indian textile design found in 21st century fashion. It examines the decoration of the traditional Indian textile design which inspires and widely adopted in the modern fashion design, and the immanent meaning of the traditional pattern. This paper also analyzes the trend of its utilization in the modern fashion design. In order to examine variety of Indian textile design and its modernization, the Indian ethnic dresses found in 21st century western designer collections were compared with the Indian traditional textile design adopted by Indian fashion designers. The result of the study shows followings : Firstly, the typical traditional decoration in Indian textile design contains plangi, chintz, ikat, roghan and embroidery (mirror-work), and the traditional Indian patterns are roughly divided into natural pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern and geometric pattern. Secondly, comparison of 203 fashion items of world top 4 collections with 422 fashion items of Indian designer's collections shows that the paisley pattern obtains the majority in western design collections, while the geometric pattern in Indian designer collections. Thirdly, the comparison and analysis of the 21st century western fashion design shows that the traditional Indian textile design is mostly used in the seasonal trend color or is mixed & matched with other patterns. You can also find the feeling of the traditional Indian patterns in some western collections. In Indian designer collections, on the other hand, the traditional Indian patterns are widely used in the manner that they maintain the traditional feeling, while they are reconstructed in modern style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.173-186
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• 2002

Street Style, occurred in British and America, has been expressed the character of the new generation by repeating developments and changes. Nowadays, pop music reflects the phase of society. and simultaneously it has influence on from culture to society. Rock Music was rooted in Country 8l western of America. Upon Country & Western, Afro-Americans Rhythm & Blues was added, and that was the birth of Rockabilly. Rockabilly developed to Rock'n 'roll and it started to change to various forms of Rock since 1950s. As the commercial impact and the breakthrough of teenagers emotion, the rock culture comprised the base of the youth culture. However. it formed the anti-establishment culture against the established value, accepting working class subculture. The teenager culture was affected by the Rock culture, also found relief in the opulence provided by the established generation, imitating it as it was. Simultaneously, it had a contrary aspect as anti-establishment form under the banner of revolt against languor in richness. The youth culture created street style that was escaped from high fashion, every time Rock music had changes. Since Street style was based on resistance of established culture and it fully refused vogue, it was indifferent from high fashion. The results of this study were as following. First, every time Rock music had changes, the new youth culture was concomitant with, the youth culture created street style. Secondly, rockahibilly style was characterized as diamond shaped design, embroidery, extra wide shirt collar, vivid contrast color . Rockers style was represented as metal studs, beads, denim, leather jacket, boots. Fusion of hippies style and Psychedelic, long hair, beads. worn denim were elements of headbangers style. Punks style was characterized as ripped T-shirt. rooster hair, over decorated jacket, short skirt. net or plastic T-shirt. Lastly, the firm relation between popular art and fashion was proved by examining the history of Rock Music and Street Style.