• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.627-633
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• 2006

This study examined the kinds, expression, techniques and arrangement of patterns for the traditional women's costume from 1995 to 2002 in North Korea. And the results were compared with South Korean. Conclusions are as follows : In the kinds of patterns the natural plant patterns were much more frequently used in North Korea. These tendency was same to South Korea. And the geometric patterns were more frequently used in South Korea. According to frequency in the expression of patterns, it was the realistic, geometric, stylized shape in North Korea. To the contrary it was the stylized, geometric, realistic shape in South Korea. In terms of decorative techniques, not only the traditional embroidery, gold leaf, multicolored stripes, but also modern collages, painting, beads, applique, flounce, ruffle were used in North Korea. Modern techniques were found comparatively a lot in North Korea, traditional techniques were found comparatively a lot in South Korea. In terms of arrangement of patterns, the modern arrangement was much more frequently used. And localized type of modern arrangement was found comparatively a lot in South and North Korea. Therefore traditional beauty was generally expressed by natural patterns, realistic shape and modern beauty was generally expressed by modern techniques and arrangement of patterns in North Korea.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.405-416
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• 2006

We, in this thesis, examined the similarities and differences of bat patterns in China and Korea, along with a consideration of how two peoples understood bats and how their understanding of bats developed and also influenced the bat patterns. As for research period, the Ming(明) dynasty and the Qing(淸) dynasty in China and the Chosun dynasty in Korea were considered. The subjects of this study included clothes, personal ornaments, and embroidery. This research was done by comparing and analyzing the similarities and differences of two countries' bat patterns. The results of comparing and analyzing Chinese and Korean bat patterns were as follows: In terms of similarity, people of two countries understood bat patterns as the symbol of happiness. Therefore, they were used in clothes, personal ornaments, and daily necessities. In terms of difference, bat patterns of two countries had different shapes. In China, colorful and realistic single bat patterns were shown as intensive composition, whereas in Korea plain and simple bat patterns were used. These differences resulted from different way of understanding of bat patterns. It can be concluded that the bat patterns can be a great cultural commodity with high commercial values, if the traditional pattern is used as a unique element of the Oriental designs and altered and developed to attract consumers' attention.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.880-896
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• 2004

Trompe l'Oeil technique strategically conceived with a view to effectively realize creative ideas among the expression techniques of fine arts style has provided the driving force in development of fine arts and has continuously influenced development of the modem fashion pursuing unique individuality. The study is focused first on finding out how Trompe l'Oeil technique originated in connection with researching the fashion of Trompe l'Oeil and on analysing the technique of expression. The author referred to fashion magazines for designing ideas of Trompe l'Oeil represented in modem fashion in practical applications used by designers in Paris, Italy, London and New York during the 10 year period(1990-1999). The collections of data were analyzed as following: Effectiveness depending on the method of Trompe l'Oeil I. Effectiveness of Layering: when two clothing are over lapped or coordinated with one another in color or style. 2. Effectiveness of Detailing: when pictures, stitch, tape, cutting, quilting and etc are used to create collar, pocket, yoke, zipper, string, shadow and etc. 3. Effectiveness of Accessories: when the image of necklace, belt, tie, tassel, badges and stars are represented by illustration or embroidery on clothing to substitute the actual existence. 4. Effectiveness of Nudity: when human body is realistically drawn and printed on clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.694-707
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• 2017

This study analyzes the characteristics of clothes worn by the Zhuang in order to produce new fashion designs, and to propose diverse new directions in fashion design. Research was conducted using a bibliographic survey on the cultural background, characteristics, and relevant techniques of the Zhuang costume and that of minority races in China. This study deploys four styles of design for women's wear. With the inspiration of the traditional Zhuang costume, black and blue were the colors mainly used for the Zhuang people and the material was mostly denim. Denim blends in well for the contemporary facilitation of the Zhuang costume, which is known for knitting technique, fur and hemp fabric as patchwork, and embroidery works. It is appropriate to express the joyful and happy mind of Zhuang people with extraordinary colors, exaggerated silhouettes, and various decorations. Images of nature, such as the sun, mountains, rivers, water, fish etc., expressed the nature worship of the Zhuang in contemporary design, representing the simple life and peaceful mind. This research develops a new fashion design and displays the possibility for diverse design development through new insight in contemporary fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.61-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study lies in pursuing the unique plastic arts with the orchid motif which has the graceful colors and a variety of shapes beauty. Another aspect of this study intends to crease the modern costume design with the high added value by expressing the texture according to the material and tissue development for the continual improvement and promotion of the modern costume design in the handicraft art area. The results through the theoretical survey and the work production are as follows : First, the orchid which has the various shapes and colors provides the designers with the unique plastic arts and the possibilities for the unlimited expressions as the design motives. Second, we can see the creation of cubic plastic beauty in the moving line, as the material which has the flexible and brilliant shape fixation, used for expressing the shape beauty of the orchid. Third, this study reveals the extension of expression areas as a characteristic of the plastic arcs by applying handicraft techniques such as dyeing, corded tuck, flounce, crochet, weaving, beads embroidery, and art flower to the costumes for developing the unique material and texture. Finally, the possibility is suggested that the desires of the moderns searching for their own individualities can be met by creating the costumes with the added vague as the exposure of esthetic consciousness through the handicraft expression techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.137-150
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• 1993

Sonia Delaunay was among the group of avant-garde artists drawn to Paris in the early part of this century who were exploring concepts of art that were felt to capture best the speed and me chanization of the modern world. She believed modernity-and her own attitude toward modern life-could be expressed through the primacy of color in art the dynamic inter-play of its dissonances and harmonies. The metap-hysical implications Delauny felt inherent in this idea made it applicable to all surfaces, and she was compelled to transform the world around her ac-cording to it. She set up a dialogue between fine art and everyday objects and accompplished the transition from representation work to her color theory through her investigation in embroidery and collage. This study is for Sonia Delaunay's field fo work which is close to fine and applied arts. To study Sonia Delaunay's work, I can find some points of her fashion designs. First, Simultaneous, which is to use collage tec-henics such as simultaneous and meterial to com-binate of variety meterial. Seound, Durability which is restoration of mor-dern fashion, Eventhough her work is 60 years old still it is foward to the furture. Imitation of textile which is devdloped by her, always looks new and fresh. Third, The elements of Folklore. Her elements of Russia, it appears on variety colors. Sepecially contemporary cloths has elements of folklore, we should use it and made it to suituble to contem-porary fashion of our country. For the furture, we need more study how to apply pictorial meterial of art into fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.145-157
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• 2008

Vivienne Tam was born in mainland China and educated in Hong Kong and has worked mainly in New York. Within multi-cultural background, she has shown unique fashion designs where western styles and China esprit were harmonized.. This study analyzed the ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam's design to identify how she has expressed her ethnic identity into fashion. Photos featuring ethnic appeal among her New York collection from 1996 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed in terms of shape/silhouette, color, fabric, motifs, detail and accessaries. She utilized frequently chinese motifs and patterns such as bamboo, panda, budha, flowers, letters, and masks. Secondly she modified the shapes of Chinese traditional costume like Quipao to render ethnic appeal. Color, fabric and detail like frog and embroidery also contributed to enhance China mood. Comparatively, she used western clothing items including shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, dresses, and coats and maintained the silhouette tight and fit so that most her designs look wearable and westernized.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Manufacturing Process Engineers
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.160-168
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• 2018

Among the components of rotary hooks, a core component of an embroidery sewing system, a study was conducted to apply metal injection molding to the manufacture of a hook body and a housing that was very difficult to mechanical working. The correlation of feedstock, a mixture of binder and SCM 415 metal powder, and properties of the pressure-volume-temperature interrelationship, viscosity, specific heat, and thermal conductivity were measured. Injection molds for the hook body and the housing were developed through injection molding analysis using these properties and conducted injection tests. Optimal injection gate position and number, injection pressure, and injection time were obtained through a comparison of analysis results with the experiment results.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.868-879
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to scan the textiles having been used for Hanbok since the 1945 Liberation. This paper states the situation of textile industry related to Hanbok. On the basis of this, the popularized textiles of each term and their characteristics are arranged. From 1945 to 1950, in the middle of disorder of this Liberation term, the clothing situation was very bad, so the majority of people wore clothing of Moomyung or Kwangmok. In the 50s, Moomyung, Kwangmok, Okyangmok, and Poplin were popularized. People could use more different kinds of textile then such as Chokyundan, Hobakdan, Newttong, Mobondan, Popdan, and Nylon. In the 60s, Chemical fibers, beginning to come in from the 50s, were their favorites, with which they made Hanbok and Western style dresses as well. Their characteristics were to have an cubic and ornamental effect on the surface. In the 70s, Yangdan, Newttong and other typical fabrics for Hanbok were manufactured with chemical fibers. they intended to give the ornamental effect by putting gold foil, embroidery, printing, and pictures on the surface of the fabrics. In the 80s, there were no seasonable fabrics for Hanbok during this term, as all-year-round fabric like Nobangzu was in common use. In the 90s, seasonable fabrics reappeared. Owing to the increasing interest in our typical fabrics like Mosi, Mobondan, and Hangra began to be in use again.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.131-144
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the type of stitch and designs of knitwears using handcraft ornament techniques. This paper will also go on to develop and merchandize high value generated by design development. Knit is largely divided into weft knit stitch and warp knit stitch which are respectively woven by weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine. For clothing, circular knit and flat knit are frequently used while plain stitch, rib stitch and purl stitch are perceived as the basic stitches. Denbigh stitch, cord stitch, atlas stitch, which belong to tricot stitch, are the basic of warp knit stitch. There are also numerous fancy fabrics adapting the previously mentioned stitches and these are made into solid pattern and yarn dyed pattern. The handcraft ornament techniques in knitwears design are embroidery, beads, sequin, stone, printing, applique and fringe, etc. By applying these techniques thus creative expression, which cannot be expressed in other fashion items, is feasible. The women's knitwears are tries by mixed and various techniques, develope to high value knitwears, escaping from simple and practical items.