• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.51-61
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• 2003

1. This study is to veri(y the characteristics of gauze fabrics focused on the them found at Sukga Pagoda. The remains researched are those of the Unified Shilla Dynasty around 8∼10 century. The found textile remains seem to be used as rugs or to be used for filling in spaces, wrapping silver reliquaries, equipments preserving relics of the Buddha, a gold-plated outermost reliquary, and so on. Since other remains found inside the Sukga Pagoda are national treasures, the textile remains can be considered as the fabrics of the highest quality. 2. Seven gauze fabrics, four non-designed gauzes and three designed gauzes, are found. They are all four-end complex gauze, weaved with the complex gauze technique. Two designed gauzes out of three designed gauzes are weaved in pattern by the clamp-resist dyeing technique and one is weaved in pattern by giving some changes in weaving. 3. In addition to the characteristics peculiar to gauze fabrics, such as thinness, fineness, and sparseness, another characteristic is found. That is, the difference in thickness between wefts and warps is over two times on the average in all of the seven gauze fabrics. Some of the gauze fabrics look like laces because of the huge difference in their thickness. 4. This research verified that with their transparency, are such materials that their beauty can easily be realized without adding various colors or patterns on the fabric by painting, embroidery, stitching old foil, or compound weaving technique.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.149-162
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• 1998

This study is thed Embroidery, Cross-stitchery, Weaving, Wax-Printing of technique and design appeared in textile of Miaos dwells in south-west among the minority people of china. The study is as follows. First, the technique of textile1) satin stitch, couching stitch, french-knot stitch, etc. using anther silk thread or cotton thread color 2) cross-stitchery 3) hand-weaving technique which is shaped other warp or weft using simple loom 4) the technique of dyeing of pattern using effect with wax. These methods are singly used mixing together, therefore doubled beauty. Second, these technuque of ornament have other independence, specially ornament apron, sling, sleeve borders, slack borderss, edge of upper garment, take off and put on easily, heighten effect of various ornament, can preserve many years. Third, Maker, female born in this country fashion by need of herself, used liberal method shown in unique creativity of life. This texture make standards capable female proud of intelligent and skill of herself. Fourth, Design appeared in textile like as pattern flying bird in the sky, strolling beast in the field, lion rolling gem, laughing dragon winding snake at gem, birks, flowers, fish, butterfly is used as the wish of long life, a lucky sign. They expressed creativity and unique conception using formation : the technique transform other shape using by omitting or adding or overestimating. Geometric pattern of tartan, revealing, Fifth, composition structure having balance and symmetry or contradiction towards center and circumstance of the center harmonized repeatedly method, expressed unique artful attraction by full composition.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2009년도 제41차 학술발표회
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• pp.145-146
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• 2009

This is studies about development of light nylon fabric and development of low denier NCD/nylon6 filament using mixed spinning technique of nylon6 and NCD(Nylon Cation Dyeable) polymer. We study how the manufactured fabrics effect on downproof & windproof properties according to conditions of low denier N/NCD filament yarn, fabrication, and dyeing and finishing.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.27-39
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• 1976

복합견방사 및 복합견직물을 시작하여 다음의 결과를 얻었다. 1 정연제별 처리효과는 규산소다, 가성소다, 탄산소 및 비누의 순이다. 2. 가성소다 3% 액으로 정연할 경우는 견담백질의 과잉 용해로 진면제조가 불가하다. 3. 견의 정연효과는 처리시간보다 농도가 크다. 4. 정연제의 단독사용보다는 이중이상을 혼용하는 것이 진면품질을 향상시킬 수 있다. 5. 견수방사의 명주소리와 광택향상을 위하여서는 유기산의 혼용이 요구된다. 6. 심사에 의하여 복합수방사의 강도는 증가한다. 7. 복합수방사의 성도변동율은 8∼l2%이다. 8. 견과 데도롱직의 염색은 이욕법으로 처리하여야 한다. 9. 복합수방사 견직물의 수축율은 23%이다. 10. 복합수방사직물은 여자용 동복지로 복합생사 직물은 부라우스지로 사용 가능하다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.229-235
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• 2014

This study conducted a research on burn-out printing convergence technology for cellulose blend knit fabrics. Printing technology, which forms color pattern on the fabric, can be generally classified into four according to printer or printing method, e.g. screen printing, roller printing, rotary printing, digital printing. However, these printing methods are flat in design or pattern, which have limitation to overcome monotonousness of fabric, so that recently burn-out process method, which expresses three-dimensional pattern effect by treating chemical on the surface of fabric as the method to appeal its esthetics to the customers. Particularly, in case of cellulose/polyester composite material, first, it is proceeded in 2 processes, by dyeing cellulose or polyester fabric and burning out cellulose fabric, in this process, due to pollution caused by disperse dye migration, color of polyester fabric part could be discolored, which has high falt risk. This research considered coloring burn-out technique, which simultaneously proceed dyeing and burn-out by reducing dyeing and burn-out process to 1 stage, which were proceeded in 2 stages previously. As the research result, it was confirmed that reasonable depth of roller was 0.04~0.06mm in roller printing process, heat treatment condition of burn-out far-infrared radiation was $185^{\circ}C{\times}30m/min$. Color fastness to washing was confirmed to be 4-5 grade, color fastness to rubbing, 3-4 grade, color fastness to light, 4 grade. Also, it was confirmed that energy reduction effect appeared 38.19%, in case of energy cost per yard compared to the existing production, also, 19.74%, in case of production cost.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.173-183
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• 2002

The orchid has a very elegant color and various forms in the nature or the ground for human life and the mother of life, The purpose of this study is to express some creative formative art by using the orchid as motive, and thereby, suggest the possibility of an artistic modern costume design by reviewing the texture of the materials. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, it was confirmed through this study that the orchid with diverse forms and colors can be used as design motive in almost infinitely diverse ways, and that all the artificial forms or structures contain the elements of natural beauty. Second, the luxurious and rich sense of orchid‘s color can be maximized by using the complementary contrast effect of the dyeing technique and the color gradation effect through harmony among similar colors. Third, a high value-added costume can be created to meet modern men’s aesthetic desire by using such embroidery techniques as crochet, weaving, dyeing, beads embroidery and art flower. Fourth, different effects of texture can be rendered by using different materials of various textures and characteristics. In addition, the possibility of creative expression for costume as formative art can be enhanced by expanding the expressions of the materials.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.49-57
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress of Bouyei People of Guizhou Province. The resuits of the study ara as follows. 1. Women's dress and adorment can be categorized into three styles. In the Zhenning, Guanling and Puding regions and northwestern areas of Guizhou Province, women usually wear blouses with overlapping necks, batik pleated skirts and long aprons. They also wear embroidered kerchiefs or turbans. In the suburbs of Guiyand City and Southwestern Guizhou Province, women like to wear blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, trousers, blue or black and white check cloth kerchiefs. In the Luoping region, women wear blouses with loose sleeves and buttons arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. 2. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front or arranged on the front, trousers and calottes. 3. Most of their dress materials are white and coloured handwoven, tie-dyed or batik cloth. The exquisite technique of batik and tie-dyeing has a long history, which began to become prevalent in the Song Dynasty. 4. Now, people use all kinds of techniques to make their dress and adornment, including batik, tie-dyeing, cross-stitch, brocade and embroidery, which reflect their peculiar aesthetic temperament.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.40-47
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• 2004

Alkaline treatment gives Sea-Island type yam to produce microfiber and silk-like touch. But this treatment have some problems in dyeing and finishing process. To solve some problem occurred in dyeing and finishing of polyester fabric, the ultrasonic treatment technique was used recently. This study was carried out to confirm the effect of the ultrasonic treatment on alkaline weight loss finishing of polyester fiber under general alkaline treatment conditions; NaOH concentration 2, 3, 4, and 5％, treatment time 5, 10, 15, and 20 minutes, treatment temperature 70, 80, 90, and 99'E, respectively. On the other hand, the three way lay out method was used to test of significant obtained data from alkaline treatment. It was found that weight loss increased with increasing the NaOH concentration, temperature, and time. Also, in case of PET/Co-PET fabrics by ultrasonic, weight loss and dissolution of microfiber were superior to PET/Co-PET fabrics without ultrasonic. Tensile strength and modulus decreased with increasing NaOH concentrations and hydrolysis time. Therefore, the effect of alkali hydrolysis by ultrasonic application was better than that of the conventional method.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권12호
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• pp.1694-1700
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• 2002

본 연구는 염색 과정 중에 발생하는 수질오염을 줄이고 또한 홀치기 염색기법에 의해 제작된 패턴을 모티브로 하여 수작업에서 얻지 못한 다색 의 사용을 가능케 함으로써 새로운 느낌 의 홀치기 문양 표현과 3D 모델링을 통하여 텍스타일디자인이 상품화 되었을 때의 효과를 CAD를 이용하여 살펴보고자 한 것이다. 연구방법으로는 가장 일반적인 실로 묶기, 전통적인 손바느질 느낌이 나는 시침질, 현대적 느낌이 강한 깡통에 의한 묶기와 기하학적 효과가 나는 접기 등의 홀치기염색 기법으로 수작업 한 다음 CAD를 이용하였다 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 홀치기염색기법에 의해 제작된 패턴을 모티브로 하여 수작업에서 얻지 못하는 다색사용가능성이 주메뉴의 색정리, 색4전개, 색 바꾸기를 사용함으로써 가능하였다 둘째, 다양한 색을 얻기 위해서 홀치기염색의 수작업에서는 상당한 시간과 노력을 필요로 하지 만 CAD를 사용함으로써 이러한 작업 이 몇 가지 메뉴의 사용으로 짧은 시간 내에 쉽게 이루어질 수 있었다. 셋째, CAD를 통한 홀치기 염색패턴의 새로운 이미지 효과를 얻기 위해 Solarize와 Intensity Direct, Effect/Emboss를 사용함으로써 다양한 질감과 새로운 이 미지 의 홀치기염색패턴을 얻을 수 있었다. 넷째, 위의 작업 과정을 통하여 수작업에서 발생 하는 수질오염을 줄일 수 있었다. 다섯째, 이상에서 얻어진 염색패턴을 3D모델링을 통하여 상품의 제작과정과 소비자에게 착용되었을 때의 효과를 미리 볼 수 있음으로 인해서 생산자의 실패율을 줄여줄 수 있을 것으로 본다 여섯째, CAD를 이용한 이러한 일련의 과정들이 텍스타일산업 분야에 충분히 기여 할 수 있을 것으로 기대 된다.