• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.109-119
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Caseaslpinia Sappan, L. and Brazilin were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye up-take adn color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. solution was 445nm, Brazilin was 448nm. The color of bazilin solution was affected by pH 7~9. The optimum temperature to extract Caesalpinia Sappan, L. was 10$0^{\circ}C$ adn dyeing solution for 1 hour. In case mordants concentration, the most absorbance was 0.3%. In case mordanting test, the best and proper temperature to quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and the most quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was mordant treatment by Cu. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treat-ment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. After soaping treatment K/S value of pre- and post-mordanting silk was decreased and 0.1%(W/V) quantity of mordant was sufficient for treatment. In the case of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. fastness was increased by mordanting treatment. Mordants and mordanting treatment method affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed silk.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.417-423
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• 2005

In order to investigate effects of dyeing conditions on the dyeing characteristics in silk during natural dyeing using indigo plants , various dyeing conditions including the temperature of dyeing solution, dyeing period, the concentration and pH of dyeing solution and mordants were treated. As the temperature of dyeing solution decreases low, the color of silk surface showed lower b value. The color of silk surface showed G line when the dyeing solution was $-5^{\circ}C$ and room temperature and GY line at more than $40^{\circ}C$. Coloring degree increased high as the temperature increases. Dyeing period showed no effect on the surface color, but as dyeing period was longer the coloring degree increased. When the concentration of dyeing solution was $1\~4\%$, the silk was colored to BG line and $5\%$ to B line. The coloring degree increased as the concentration of dyeing solution more increased. The pH of dyeing solution sensitively affected coloring of silk. The pH lower than 7 showed G line, pH 8 showed GY line and pH 9 showed YR line. Coloring degree decreased as pH was more increases. Surface color of silk was different according to the kinds of natural mordants and coloring degree was increased by the natural mordants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.393-400
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• 2010

This study examines the mordanting effect and multi functional properties of silk fabrics dyed with onion shell extracts that were mordanted with gallnut. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the optimum dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the K/S value that depended the on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics were dyed with onion shell extracts. Second, the color, brightness, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with gallnut were investigated by measuring the K/S and Munsell value. Third, the color fastness and antimicrobial activity were measured. When silk fabrics were dyed with onion shell extracts, the optimum dyeing conditions were a dyeing temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, a dyeing concentration of 160%, and a dyeing of time 30min. After mordanting with gallnut extracts, the K/S value increased remarkably and was larger in pre-mordanting than post-mordanting. The H value displayed yellow-red in all cases of pre and post mordanting. However, the H value was more reddish in the order of non-mordanting

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.7
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• pp.55-61
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• 2004

The Purpose or this study was to determine the optimal dyeing condition or Chelidonium majus extracts onto silk fabrics. Among the various dyeing properties, the colorfastness of fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus extracts was investigated in different conditions such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing pH etc. We also tried to dye fabrics using the Chelidonium majus extracts which were lyophilized. Although mordant was not used, dyed fabrics showed relatively good dyeability and the main pigment of Chelidonium majus showed yellow vividly in the appropriate dyeing conditions. At a dyeing temperature above 40$^{\circ}C$, the $\Delta$E value increased but the yellowish tint decreased. The pH value of unadjusted Chelidonium majus extracts was 6.4, at which a deep yellow was obtained. The dye equilibrium was reached 40 minutes after dyeing. The colorfastness to washing and light was poor at 1-2 and 2-3, respectively, but the dry-cleaning fastness was good at 4-5.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.768-777
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• 2015

In this study, the dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum extracts was investigated. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the proper dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the dye uptake (K/S value) that depended on the dyeing conditions when silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract. Second, the brightness (L), hue, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with Al, Cu and Fe were investigated by measuring the CIELAB and Munsell values. And third, the colorfastness and antibacterial property were measured. When the silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract, the proper dyeing conditions were a colorant concentration of 90% v/v, a dyeing of time 100 minutes, a dyeing temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing of pH 3. In mordanting methods, the dyeabilities of post-mordanting were higher than those of premordanting. The hue value displayed yellow (Y) and yellow-red (YR) in cases of pre and post mordanting. The C value decreased by the mordanting of Polygonum cuspidatum extracts. Generally the colorfastness of mordanted fabrics was improved by mordanting. The dyed fabrics showed a 90.6% of Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate, and the dyed and mordanted fabrics showed 97.1% bacteria reduction rate. The dyed and mordanted fabrics showed above 90.5% Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate, and Cu mordant revealed the most effective bacterial reduction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.141-148
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• 2004

This study examines the dyeability of fabrics in relation to dyeing temperature, time, concentration, and the number of repeated dyeings. For this study, at first we extracted natural dyes from the peel of C.umshiu mandarin, which is fast as a dye and considered as recycling agricultural wastes. Additionally, it represents the image of Jeju Island. Then, we dyed cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics with the extracted dyes. The findings of this study are as follows. 1) Dyed cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics with the extract of C.umshiu mandarin peel are generally yellow. 2) Wool, nylon, silk, and cotton, in this order, are of good dyeability; Wool fabrics have the highest dyeability and cotton fabrics have the lowest. The dyeabilty of cotton fabrics was not improved even after dyeing in different conditions. 3) Colorfastness with washing, rubbing and perspiration are all good, while colorfastness with light is poor. 4) Higher dyeing concentration makes better dyeability. 5) Dyeability is enhanced as the dyeing temperature increases, while the dyeability of silk and nylon is relatively good even at low temperatures. 6) Looking at dyeability according to dyeing time, the longer the dyeing time, the better the dyeablility. Sixty minutes of dyeing time is appropriate to dye fabrics. 7) With an increase in the number of repeated dyeings, increased dyeability is obtaihed.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.174-179
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• 2006

Dyeing and color fastness properties of a reactive disperse dye containing an acetoxyethylsulphone group on PET, Nylon, silk and N/P fabrics were examined. The reactive disperse dye exhibited almost the same dyeing properties on PET fabric as a conventional disperse dye except the level of dye uptake. The most appropriate pH and dyeing temperature for the dyeing of Nylon fabric were 7 and $100^{\circ}C$ respectively. The build-up on Nylon fabric was good and various color fastnesses were good to excellent due to the formation of the covalent bond. Application of the reactive disperse dye on silk fabric at pH 9 and $80^{\circ}C$ yielded optimum color strength. The rate of dyeing on Nylon fabric was faster than that on PET fabric when both fabrics were dyed simultaneously in a dye bath, accordingly color strength of the dyed Nylon was higher. The reactive disperse dye can be applied for one-step and one-bath dyeing of N/P mixture fabric with good color fastness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.785-798
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• 2004

Silk has always been coveted as the finest and richest of all fibers woven into cloth. The earlist woven silk fragments found to date come from the third century B.C. The filament created and spun into cocoon by the larva of the silk moth, silk was exported from China to Europe from as early as the third century B.C. Silk industry is export leading industry that guide national textile industry development after the 1960s in Korea. Korean silk industry reached to peak at 1975 is displaying appearance that export scale is decreased recently. Various kinds methods can be proposed for high value added in silk industry, the research about color is essential. The importance of color is increasing in modern textile and fashion industry. Color is important factor of textile and fashion industry because color affects strong influence in human's sensitivity. Silk fabric can give high added value developing high sensitivity color because dye ability is superior. In this study I planned the "Utility Silk Color Code 288" for efficient color management in silk industry. "Utility Silk Color Code 288" are attached the Munsell notation and dyeing data which can reappear the color when needed. This research constructs for insufficient domestic color infrastruction and expect that basic role to develop the competitive power for Korean silk industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.389-394
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• 2003

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with leaf Mustard was investigated the relation with pH variation, mordants, mordant method. K/S value shows the following sequence: pH 3>pH 5>pH 7>pH 9. K/S value shows high in post mordant conditions. Silk fabric shows the green, blue tone according to mordants(Al, Cu, Fe mordants). The tannic acid treatment silk fabric shows higher than the nontannic acid treatment silk fabric in K/S value. Lighting fastness of tannic acid treatment silk fabric shows better than that of nontannic acid treatment in Cu, Fe mordants. Water fastness of tannic acid treatment silk fabric was wholly improved. Tannic acid treatment improved dyeing properties of silk fabric with leaf Mustard.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.36-42
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• 1990

The effect of urea and its derivatives, which are known as structure breakers of water, in the dyeing of silk with acid dyes was investigated. Without ureas the maximum dye uptake was observed at $60^{\circ}C$ when dyed with Milling Cyanine 5R, but in the presence of ureas the maximum dye uptake was decreased and its temperature also shifted to lower regin in the order of urea >N-methyl urea > N,N-dimethyl urea>tetramethyl urea. These tendencies were more marked in the dyeing of silk fiber with Orange II, a typical levelling type acid dye. These can be interpreted as the decrease in the hydropholic interaction between fiber molecules which results in the broadening of the inter micelie spacing. The increased partition coefficient of dye molecules in the bath by the action of ureas also contributes to dyeing results, and it can be seen from the spectral characteristics of dyes in aqueous urea solution.