• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.101-107
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• 2005

In this article, mordant absorption rate by the Change of temperature and fabric, discharge level by water washing, mordant density and method in mordant dye are going to be handled. Besides, how treatment method will have an effect on absorption rate and color, is also going to be covered. An atom extinction photometer was used to measure the amount of mordant absorbed in fabric at each temperature and mordant type. It turned out that absorption rate differs according to the type of mordant and sample or temperature. Also it turned out that the mordant input amount has little influence on absorption rate, that is to say, if though you use more mordants, just tiny amount of mordant is going to be absorbed in cloth. It is true that the higher temperature goes up, the better mordant absorption gets. It is found that the type of mordant and sample, treatment period affects the discharge rate. Normally $15{\~}98\%$ mordant comes off the fabric by water washing, to be specific, $17{\~}47\%$ Iron by water washing and it has better performance on cotton and nylon than silk, $1\%{\~}52\%$ Aluminum by water washing and better absorption on silk, $36{\~}89\%$ Chrome by water washing and better absorption on silk, $50{\~}89\%$ copper by water washing and better absorption on silk, poor on cotton. The examination of the K/S values and colors between before and after soaping has been conducted under the circumstance that the test fabrics had been treated at $80^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes with $0.2\%$ soaping solution. In case of pre-mordanted fabrics, the K/S value nosedived after soaping, meanwhile densely mordanted fabric's K/S value soared but after soaping, it dropped sharply. It turned out that soaping treatment deteriorates absorption much more than water washing. It's considered that $0.1 \%$ (W/V) of mordant density is appropriate.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.17 no.11
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• pp.221-228
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• 2017

This paper aimed to find out the eco-friendly approach enabling to directly print patterns and dye colors on fabrics using leaves of plants. In the research process, I found out the 'eco-printing' which could effectively express unique colors and patterns of plants. While eco-printing can design the patterns and colors of plants in nature using the leaves of plant(Eucalyptus), it is difficult to implement because it is not systematically and academically investigated including the dictionary definition in Korea until now. Thus, I tried to define the eco-printing and natural dyeing using leaves or flowers of plants enabling to get natural patterns and colors and do the experimental research and production using the leaves of Eucalyptus. The leaves of Eucalyptus were arranged on a wool scarf and a silk scarf, tied and applied pressure to them and made pigments penetrate into fabrics by heating or steaming them. This approach is to directly print the patterns using the shapes of plants on fabrics unlike the existing approaches dyeing by extracting dyeing solution from natural materials. Furthermore, the change of colors was attempted by using the color fixers. In accordance with the results of this experimental research, the scarf design differentiated from the existing products could be acquired. It was identified that eco-printing could induce the color variables depending on the conditions of each material and environment. For improving the color variables, various kinds of fabrics and divers kinds of materials which can be easily acquired in a daily life will be investigated and compared. Furthermore, it is expected that the experimental research and production techniques on eco-printing be utilized when starting natural dyeing and the scope of natural dyeing be more expanded.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1203-1214
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• 2009

The theory of household arts and practical acts are two traditional mainstream topics of official South Korean secondary home economics education. The clothing and textile education within the Secondary School Home Economics Textbook (1948) is various and practical. The first year textbook discusses the symbolism and maintenance of uniforms that provides information on the characteristics of cotton. Clothing and textiles are covered in 26 pages out of the 76 page book. The second year textbook includes the theory of color and form, along with the characteristics of flax and silk. Clothing and textile education is covered in 33 pages out of the 97 second year textbook. The third year textbook deals with the characteristics of wool, manufactured fibers, cross weaving, removing stains, clothing arrangements, and equipment; 5 chapters (56 pages out of 137) are spent on clothing and textiles. The fourth year textbook introduces the history of clothing, laundry principles, dyeing, bedclothes, and bed accessories; 4 chapters (63 pages out of 125 pages) are spent on clothing and textiles. The Secondary School Home Economics Textbook (1948) is highly extensive and profound in depth. It is comparable with modern college or specialized high school level clothing and textile education in terms of clothing materials, clothing maintenance, color theories, and dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.290-298
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• 2011

Natural Omija belongs to magnoliaceae was known to possess natural odor, taste, color, and various pharmaceutical & chemical characteristics. Omija extraction was extracted using ethanol as a solvent. Omija extract showed a light red-violet color of viscous liquid state. Some conclusions from the result of characteristic experiment were obtained as follows. From the result of antimicrobial experiment, occurrence of staphylococuss aureus and aspergillus niger as microbes was decreased according to the passage of time. This phenomenon could know that Omija component is affected to antimicrobial effect. From the result of dye experiment, fiber dyeing showed with some ivory color after dyed to cotton and silk. This phenomenon could know that Omija component is affected to dyeing effect from observation of scanning electron microscope(SEM). From the result of instrument analysis, inorganic components of K(107.30ppm), Na(2.110ppm), Ca(0.935ppm), Mg(0.891ppm), Li(0.270ppm) etcs from Omija were detected with ICP/OES, and aromatic components of benzene(10.808), a-pinene(13.996), phenol(14.183), ${\beta}$-terpene(15.840), a-terpinolene(17.616) etcs from Omija were also detected with GC/MSD.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.208-215
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• 2018

The objective was to investigate the efficacy of Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone colorants as a new functional dye for wool fiber. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for wool fiber. Compared with cotton and silk fibers, wool fiber showed better affinity for the Metasequoia cone colorants. Fe and Cu mordants improved dye uptake, and mordanting did not change the color of dyed fabric with YR Munsell color. Colorfastness to rubbing and washing was as good as grade 4, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics was above grade 3. Antimicrobial activity of the colorants was very high 99.3% of reduction rate toward S. aureus. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorants can be utilized as a new functional natural dye for wool fiber. In addition, considering its high antimicrobial functionality it could be applied to cosmetics and food.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.40-47
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• 2004

Alkaline treatment gives Sea-Island type yam to produce microfiber and silk-like touch. But this treatment have some problems in dyeing and finishing process. To solve some problem occurred in dyeing and finishing of polyester fabric, the ultrasonic treatment technique was used recently. This study was carried out to confirm the effect of the ultrasonic treatment on alkaline weight loss finishing of polyester fiber under general alkaline treatment conditions; NaOH concentration 2, 3, 4, and 5％, treatment time 5, 10, 15, and 20 minutes, treatment temperature 70, 80, 90, and 99'E, respectively. On the other hand, the three way lay out method was used to test of significant obtained data from alkaline treatment. It was found that weight loss increased with increasing the NaOH concentration, temperature, and time. Also, in case of PET/Co-PET fabrics by ultrasonic, weight loss and dissolution of microfiber were superior to PET/Co-PET fabrics without ultrasonic. Tensile strength and modulus decreased with increasing NaOH concentrations and hydrolysis time. Therefore, the effect of alkali hydrolysis by ultrasonic application was better than that of the conventional method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.827-836
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• 2013

Indigotin, indirubin, berberine, palmatine, alizarin, and purpurin are major pigments of indigo plant, Phellodendron bark, and madder. The six pigments were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument for the purpose of the simultaneous detection of the pigments in a single sample run. The HPLC-DAD-MS method examined the individual pigment solutions in DMSO, a solution containing 6 pigments, and the DMSO extract of the silk dyed with a dye solution of 5 pigments excluding indirubin. The retention times of the HPLC chromatograms, ${\lambda}_{max}$ of the uv-vis absorption bands in the DAD analyses, and the molecular ions detected for the compound peaks in the MSD analyses were consistent throughout the analyses of individual pigment solutions, mixed pigment solutions, and dye extracted from silk dyeing. The developed instrumental method of the simultaneous detection of six pigments can identify dye in an exhumed textile if the textile is dyed using any one (or multiple) pigments of indigo, Phellodendron bark, or madder plant.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.337-343
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• 2009

This study systematically investigated a method for extraction of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius Linnaeus) colorants by ultrasonic treatment. Compared to pigments productivity and cell wall structures of safflower after general and ultrasonic method, the ultrasonic method showed high extraction efficiency of safflower pigments due to destruction of safflower cell wall caused by high vibration energies. Microscopic analysis confirmed the hypothesis that the ultrasonic treatment of safflower caused its cell wall structure loosened and made efficient extraction of safflower pigments. And also, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed that productivities of the yellow and red safflower pigments by ultrasonic method were 21.9% and 14.6% higher, respectively, than those of pigments extracted by general method. The ultrasonic extracted yellow and red colorants could be used to dye not only natural fibers like cotton, silk and wool, but also synthetic fiber like nylon, and generally gave a better color tone than the general extracted colorants from safflower due to the affinities of red and yellow colorant on different fibers. As the yellow and red colorant were extracted by ultrasonic treatment in water, the K/S value on of 550/440nm of cotton and rayon was increased but in the case of silk and wool the change of this value was almost not detected. Finally, this technique might provide a solution to establish reproducibility and standardization for the extraction and dyeing methods on fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.229-230
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• 2009

Recently the demand for wool has been gradually decreasing due to global warming, oil depletion, Coolbiz campaign to reduce CO2 emission, and preference for business casual wear, while the price for wool materials has been constantly increasing. Wool, characterized by the natural touch and unique sensibility, is considered as one of the best natural materials, including silk. For wool, currently Korea almost depends on import from foreign countries. Therefore, 100% wool products cannot be competitive in terms of pricing and current trend. To secure sustaining competitiveness in the fiber market, it is required not only to develop new wool materials that enable expression of new sensibility that cannot be expressed by conventional wool fibers, but also to pursue differentiation of fundamental sensibility and functionality by highlighting advantages for wool as a natural fiber but by reducing its disadvantages through dominant conjugation with synthetic fibers. This study attempted to improve the technology of differentiating wool-like synthetic fibers such as polyester and combine technology with sensibility through mixing with wool materials. It also aimed to develop wool-like stretch materials and pre-treating and yarn dyeing technologies that enable fabrics to main natural wool-like touch and stretch, and ultimately to develop wool mixed fabrics that have new sensibility and functionality.