• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.433-440
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• 2002

Natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree have been known as them of the most widely used yellow vegetable dyes. Cotton and silk fabrics(KS K 0905) were chosen as specimens. Those were dyed with natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree. The conditions of dyeing were varied according to the kinds of mordants, using mordants or not and the concentrations of the natural dyes. Sn, Al, Fe and Cu were chosen for the mordants. 5%(owf), 10%(owf), 15%(owf) and 20%(owf) were used as for the concentration of the natural dyes. The color differences were measured by the Spectrometer(UV-VIS-NIR) before and after dyeing. The results are as follows: 1. Deeper colors were proportionately shown up to the concentration of the natural dye. 2. Silk was shown the higher dye affinity than the cotton at the same concentration of the dye. 3. The color difference between the Sn-mordanted specimens and the Al-mordanted specimens were significant. When the concentration of the dye increased, the colors got darker, specially in b* value. 4. The color difference between the Fe-mordanted specimens and the Cu-mordanted specimens were significant in L* value and b* value. 5. The deeper or lighter yellow were controllable under the concentration of the natural dye and the mordants. 6. The most effective and the economic concentration of the natural dye was 10% owf through the experiments.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.119-132
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• 2016

Weighting of silk fabrics have long been practiced in silk fabric trading based on the primary consideration of price-weight, and secondary one of quality improvement in handle, luster, and drape properties. Recent trend of practicing weighting of silk fabrics is, however, focused on the improvement of the handle, luster, drape, and other properties. During the finishing processes of synthetic fiber, nylon, comprising amide structure, include the use of tannic acid, especially in the dyeing. A multitude of studies are being implemented in terms of improving fastness to washing, fastness to light of dyed nylon product, or the light fastness of nylon 6 itself. In this study, the effects of various tannic acid treatments on the physical properties related to the handle of nylon 6 and silk fabrics are examined and reviewed. The effects of treatment condition of the tannic acid, e.g., the concentration of the aqueous tannic acid solution, treatment time, and temperature were investigated. As the concentration of the aqueous solution of tannic acid increased, the bending rigidity values of the silk and nylon 6 fabrics increased. The treated fabrics felt stiff to the touch. Within the mild conditions of bending employed in the bending measurement of KES, nylon 6 treated fabric specimen exhibited a trend of improvement of bending resiliency within the range of small bending deformation. The weight of treated fabrics have all increased. The air-permeability values decreased as the treatment concentration increased. However, the decrease tendency of air permeability values may be alleviated by adjusting the fabric count during the tentering or expanding processes, either by tension adjustment or heat treatment. Optimum conditions of the treatment for nylon 6 are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1, and those for silk fabric treatment are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1. The treatment conditions will lead to the improvement in the properties of fabrics for summer.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.39-47
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of alkali treatment on EG solution of polyester/silk union cloth(P/S cloth) . Tensile strength, moisture regain, crease resistance, and reduction ratio of the treated P/S cloth were measured. The results of this study were as follows ： 1) The weight loss of P/S cloth treated with EG solution was three times higher than those of P/S cloth treated with $H_2O$. The weight loss of P/S cloth was increased greatly with increasing concentration of NaOH, temperature, and time. Favorable weight reduction of treating condition could be obtained when lower concentration of NaOH was used with longer time. 2) If it was added $H_2O$ on EG solution, weight loss of polyester increased, while those of silk decreased. In addition, decreasing ratio of tensile strength warp direction (polyester) was lower, while those of weft direction(silk) was higher. 3) Moisture regain of P/S cloth treated with EG solution increased with weight loss up to 10% . Crease resistance of P/S cloth was the highest at weight loss of 10~15%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.147-154
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• 2006

In this study 1, the dyeability and sun protection characteristic of the fabrics dyed with pine needles extract was investigated. In the test of color difference, the surface color of all the dyed fabric of both cotton and silk came to light as greenish yellow. In the test of dyeing colorfastness, the colorfastness to sunlight of dyed cotton fabric was below 2nd grade and the one of dyed silk fabric was below 3rd grade. The colorfastness to laundry for the degree of discoloration showed a difference as to mordants, but the colorfastness to laundry for the degree of contamination was excellent as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to perspiration was excellent as the degree of discoloration was more than 3rd grade and the degree of contamination was more than 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to rubbing showed the excellent result as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. In the test of sun protection factor(SPF), the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed very high sun protection characteristic as the SPF was each 36.1 and 42.5. In the test of sun protection rate for UV-A and UV-B, the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed the very high sun protection rate of more than $90\%$.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.8
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• pp.71-79
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• 2007

The Conservation Science Team at National Museum of Korea has Reproduced the silk wrapper that was used the sarira reliquary found from Pagoda in the Bonginsa, in order to use it in the process of alternating the relics on display in the Hangeul(the Korean language) of the Historical Gallery. Silk fabric of the same texture as the original was used for reproduction. As for the process of dyeing silk fabric, fermented Indigo deposits was used for bluish color, while fruits of the alder trees were used to express the parts that have been faded into yellowish. The Korean characters(court style hangeul) written on the wrapper have been replicated through the use of Ink-stick.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.7 s.209
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• pp.109-116
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• 2005

Using buffer solutions, consisting of pH 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, silk fiber fabric specimens, pre-mordanted with one of the mordanting agents, Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, were dyed using cochineal dyestuff. The color of the dyed silk fabric specimens was predominantly red(R) for the acidic range of pH 4 and 5, and predominantly purple(RP) for the neutral range of pH 6,7, with 8, with the pH boundary differentiating between the shades being between pH 5 and 6. As a general trend, the chroma value decreased as the pH changed from acid to alkali, and the highest chroma value us attained between pH 4 and 5. Regardless of the mordanting conditions, the trend was that $ {\Delta}E$ showed the highest measured value in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5, and it dropped abruptly after the pH 6.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.162-167
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• 2001

The dyeing powder drawn out from Cinnamoum cassia by water was concentrated. Using this powder, the silk fabrics were dyed and they measured with the K/S value, surface color, dye fastness and antimicrobial properties. The colorant of Cinnamoum cassia was proved flavonoids by FT-IR spectrum. The K/S values of silk by mordants concentration were much higher than those of high-concentration, the color yield of the silk fabrics were most efficient the premordanting method. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark except AI-mordant. The chroma produced clear for the unmordanting, the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. In the case of the light fastness, Cu-mordants improved more than 1-2 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity on the silk fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.492-498
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• 2014

Lotus(Nelumbo nucifera gaertn) is intimate plant to many people that it has clean and noble characteristics despite growth in the mud. Especially Lotus seedpods, byproduct of lotus, are rich in oligometric procyanidins and could be a new source of procyanidins. Procyanidins, also known as condensed tannins, are a class of polyphenols. In other words lotus seedpod contains plenty of tannins. Commonly tannins colorants could increase adsorption and fastness properties in fabric dyeing. This study was made to investigate colorants characteristics of lotus seedpod and various colorfastness properties of dyed silk fabrics. The wavelength of maximum absorption of lotus seedpod solution appeared at 273.5 nm from UV-vis spectrophotometer. From the results of FT-IR spectra measurements, IR absorption band of lotus seedpod colorants appeared at $3415cm^{-1}$, $2900cm^{-1}$ and $1620cm^{-1}$ by tannin structure. And tannin ingredient contents was the highest at pH 9 and flavonoid at pH 11. Lotus seedpod colorants showed relatively good affinity at pH 3 on silk fabrics and optimum dyeing temperature and time for silk was for 50 min, at $80^{\circ}C$. K/s of Light fastness according to different washing method was the highest at process including ironing and ${\Delta}E$ was the lowest. All of fastness(Light rubbing laundering perspiration dry cleaning) showed excellent results over 4 or 4-5 grades.