• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.33-46
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability of silk on extract of Artemisia princeps, The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method. comonent of fabric, kind of mordant. The experimental study was done by laundering fastness, abrasion(dry/wet) fastness, perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness, light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, in the C. C. M test on mordanting methods, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference, color was most yellow-greenish, Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabrics, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It is considered that silk has -$NH_2$ , -COOH, -OH than more than cotton. Third, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed that color-change was 2~3 grade, the contamination on attached fabric was 4~5 grade. perspiration fastness(acid/alkali) showed 4~5 grade nearly and those of acid was higher than alkali. abrasion fastness(dry/wet) was 4~5 grade and in Fe(3~4 grade) was lower than the other mordants. Forth, in color difference analysis on mordants, Fe(50.0) showed the highest and the order of color difference was alum(16.0), Cu(7.2), Sn(3.5), Al(3.1), Cr(2.3), The Hue was turned into yellow-greenish in alum mordant treatment, the luminocity of color was most dark in Fe(-48.9) and Cu(-7.2), chroma was the highest in alum (15.7) method.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.364-372
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• 2003

In this study, the characteristics of catechol tannin and pyrogallol tannin contained in Pteridium aquilinum were analysed by It spectrum. Silk fabrics were dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts using various mordants, and their dyeing properties were discussed. Additionally the fastness the water digestion, perspiration liquid digestion and light irradiation were investigated. IR spectrum of catechol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3417cm^{-1}$, C-H at $2930cm^{-1}$, C=0 at $1722cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1644cm^{-1},\;CH_2\;at\;1402cm^{-1}$. And IR spectrum of pyrogallol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3409cm^{-1}$, C-H at $3003cm^{-1}\;and\;2933cm^{-11}$, C=0 at $1701cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1582cm^{-11},\;CH_2\;at\;1410cm^{-1}$, CO at carboxylic acid and carboxylic acid ester at $1287cm^{-1}\;and\;1135cm^{-1}$. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 270.0nm and 311.5nm. The optimum conditions for dyeing silk fabric with Pteridium aquilinum extracts were $80^{\circ}C$, 60min. Surface color of the silk fabric dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts was 2.7Y Surface color of the pre-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 4.3Y, 2.5Y and 4.7Y, respectively. And Surface color of the post-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 3.7Y, 2.8Y and 0.2GY. The water fastness and the alkaline perspiration fastness were improved in the Al-mordanted silk fabrics. By acidic and alkaline perspiration treatment, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than hat of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics. Also after 40hour irradiation, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than that of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2017

Blended knit with two or more fiber has various dyeing characteristics depending on dyeing method because of different material properties of them. In this paper, newly developed blended knit was used. It was composed by Acrylate fiber and Dyeable polypropylene(DPP) fiber. As result of build-up dyeing test, acid dyes and disperse dyes respectively had good dyeabilities on 1% o.w.f. with Acrylate fiber and DPP fiber. Compatibility of trichromatic of disperse dyes was generally good for most dyes investigated and their critical absorption range were between $120^{\circ}C$ and $130^{\circ}C$. As depending on dyeing methods, there were many differences in dyeability. It was confirmed that 1-bath-1-step dyeing was most suitable when considering dye exhaustion yield and levelling property. Wash, rubbing and light fastness of knits were generally good in most dyes.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.78-85
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• 1998

Colorants were prepared by extraction of natural indigo which was harvested just in the blooming season(in the late of July). 100 g of fresh leaves soaking in 1 ιwater was kept at 3$0^{\circ}C$, 30 hours. A solution of 3g/l calcium hydroxide was added into it to precipitate dye substance and it was freezing-dried into powder form. The fermentation and dyeing conditions were investigated. The results obtained are summarized as follows; K/S value of dyed silk fabrics of fermentation conditions was higher at 95$^{\circ}C$ for 20 min. than at 4$0^{\circ}C$ for 20 hours. Furthermore, K/S value of dyed silk fabric was raised by the addition of 5g/l of glucose and 5g/l of NaOH. K/S value of dyed silk fabric was raised by the addition of 5g/l of glucose and 5g/l of NaOH. K/S value increased as extending of dyeing time when dyed till 2 hours at 3$0^{\circ}C$. K/S value decreased in order of 3$0^{\circ}C$, 4$0^{\circ}C$ and 5$0^{\circ}C$, at the various dyeing temperatures and dyeing concentrations, and colour fastness ranged from 4 to 5 grade in terms of washing, perspiration and light fastness.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.79-87
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• 2014

Dyeing fabric weaved with two or more kinds of fiber in different section has various dyeing interactions caused by different material properties of them. Newly developed knit fabric was used in this study. It composited by two different blocks, each block is included PET fiber and CDP fiber separately. Build-up properties with cation dyes and disperse dyes were good having average 83% of dyeing exhaustion yield on 5% o.w.f. dye concentration. As depending on dyeing methods, there were not showed direct interaction between cation dyes and disperse dyes. This result could be considered their different dyeing mechanism. Compatibility was best in S-type disperse dyes investigated their critical absorption range as $120^{\circ}C{\sim}130^{\circ}C$. Wash fastness was generally good in most dye.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.195-207
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• 2016

In this study, we examined the influence of the pigment characteristic and dyeing condition on dyeing properties and functionality by using Perilla Frutescens L. Britt extracts, in which ethanol, distilled water and NaOH solution were used as 3 different solvents. Changes in dyeing conditions include variations in dye concentration, dyeing temperature, time and pH on dye uptake, and K/S values were compared according to these changes. Additionally, color changes were observed according to the use and types of mordant. Ultraviolet-visible spectrum was utilized to investigate the pigment characteristic, and as a result, chlorophyll was identified in ethanol extract, whereas tannin was identified both in distilled water extract and NaOH solution extract. By using FT-IR analysis, these tannins in distilled-water-extract and NaOH solution extract were verified to be hydrolyzable tannin. When dyeing silk, dye uptake increased as dye concentration, dyeing temperature and time increased, while it decreased as pH of the extract increased. Fabrics dyed without a mordant produced Y-series colors, and fabrics dyed with mordants showed various colors depending on the mordant types. Even though color fastness to washing and light was unsatisfactory, fastness to rubbing and perspiration showed relatively high grade. Moreover, deodorant ability of dyed fabric improved.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.100-111
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• 2019

In this study, the dyeing properties and functionalities of Crataegi fructus extract were investigated for the purpose of application to new natural dye resources. The effects of dyeing conditions(concentration of dye, dye bath temperature, dyeing duration and dye bath pH) and mordanting on dye uptake and color changes were also examined. The study also estimated the colorfastness, antibacterial properties, and ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics. The dye uptake increased in tandem with the dye concentration and dye bath temperature. The highest K/S values were obtained at the following conditions: a dye concentration of 100%(v/v), a dyeing period of 60 minutes, a dye bath temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing pH of 3. The colorfastness of the material when dry cleaned or rubbed ranged from good to excellent and fastness to light was rated at grade 2-3. The change in the color grade when exposed to washing was not good; however, the stain of washing fastness was good at a range of 4-5. In regards to the functional property aspects, the dyed and mordanted fabrics exhibited excellent results with a 99.9% reduction rate, and excellent ultraviolet protection factors.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.51-63
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to identify the best dyeing conditions using onion's outer shell. and to apply to the method in practical daily life. To do this. we extracted quercetin from onion's outer shell and dyed several natural fabrics such as cotton, slack mercerized cotton, ramie. and silk. under the different conditions. Dyed fabrics were Investigated in the aspect of dyeability and colorfastness. The effective conditions for the light-fastness and washing-fastness also have been studied. The results of the experiment were varied with such conditions as temperature. time. pH degree. and treatment and types of mordants. The results are as follows ; 1. Fabrics dyed with onion's outer shell showed excellent dyeability even though there were no mordants, and the silk fabric dyed better than both cotton and ramie fabric. Furthermore, in the cases of repeated dyeing and treatment of mordants using AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ and CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ dyeability of specimen had been improved 2. Cellulose fabrics such as cotton, mercerized cotton and ramie showed the best dyeability under relatively low temperature in the range of 20~4$0^{\circ}C$. On the contrary to cellulose fabric, silk fabric showed the best dyeability under higher dyeing temperature. All fabrics had the higest K/S value at pH 3 regardless of the kind of fiber 3. Dyeing colors varied with the kind of mordants. Colors were turned into yellow in AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ into Yellow-red in CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ , and into green-Yellow in FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. As mordants, AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$, CuSO$_4$,. 5$H_2O$. FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. gallic acid and tartaric acid were used and especially AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ showed the best dyeability and colorfastness in repeated dyeing. Mordants such as AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ made fabrics have better chroma and washing-fastness though the light-fastness was poorer than non mordanting. 4. Repeated dyeing brought us deep color. When fresh dyebath was used each time, the dyeability was increased as the experiment was repeated more. When dyed with used dyebath several times, improved dyeability could not be expected. The optimal using times of the used dyebath was twice.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.93-101
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• 2022

In this study, the dyeing properties of supercritical fluid dyed cotton fabrics were investigated which use two types of dyes, such as C.I. Disperse orange and C.I. Disperse red 167. Dyeing temperature, pressure and leveling time were equally applied at 130 ℃, 250 bar, and 60 minutes with reference to the related literature, and experiments were performed at concentrations of 0.04, 0.1, 0.4 and 0.8 % o.w.f with different concentrations. Dyeability was confirmed through measurement of washing fastness and color coordinate, and a calibration curve of each dye was drawn up and the absorbance of the residual dye was measured to confirm the amount of residual dye and the dye exhaustion rate at the corresponding concentration. As a result of color difference measurement, as the concentration increased, the L^* value decreased and the K/S value increased. However, as the concentration increased, the increase in K/S value decreased compared to the input amount, and this tendency was more obvious in C.I. Disperse red 167 than in C.I. Disperse orange 155. The dye exhaustion rate which was calculated by using the amount of residual dye in the pot was also C.I. Disperse orange 155 was 96.16 % and C.I. Disperse red 167 was 94.57 %. However, as the dyeing concentration increased, the dye exhaustion rate decreased, that C.I. Disperse orange was 95.33 % and C.I. Disperse red 167 was 90.63 %. As a result of the washing fastness test for both dyes, dyed samples of which concentrations were 0.4 and 0.8 % o.w.f decreased by 0.5 ~ 1.0 grade. This is predicted because the dye did not completely adhere to the amorphous region of the cotton fiber and the dye simply adsorbed. The fastness to rubbing also maintained at least grade 3-4 up to the 0.1 % o.w.f concentration, but at the concentration of 0.4 % o.w.f or higher, it fell to grade 1 or lower, showing a very poor friction fastness.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.79-89
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• 1998

This study was carried out the effect of stability and color extract for it's condition in the curcuma L.. dyeing. The stability is to investigate the absorbance of the curcumin, one of the major yellow pigments and the stability regarding the effect of light, oxygen temperature and pH. The dyeing condition is compared the effect of mordanting condition and the best way to extract pigment and analysed through the color-fastness rating, color-difference value test. The main results obtained are summarized as follows ; 1.The best and proper solvent to extrect curcumin pigment was a ethanol and a distilled water. 2. The light effect indicated that the absorbances of solution in absence of ligh was more stable. 3. The oxygen(O2) effect to curcumin show-ed that the condition in the absence of O2 was more stable than that in presence of O2 4. The temperature showed that the absorbnace was best stable in4$^{\circ}C$ and less changed at $25^{\circ}C$ 5. The curcumin-etanol solution was stable in pH 2~4. 6. Generally color-fastness rating to silk, wool and cotton indicated that crocking C.F. and perspiration C.F. were more than 3rd grade and dry cleaning C.F. was more than 4th grade. But light color-fastness and washing color-fastness were very poor. 7. To make good color fastness, the mordan-ting treated group and the pre-mordant conditions were more effective than others 8. When compared with color-difference value test indicated that the silk was looks like more reddish and bluish color and than the wool and cotton were greenish and bluish. As a mordant, A(C2H4OH(COOH3) and D(K2Cr2O7)were more effective to make green-ish color in the silk and the reddish color was abtained by B(Al.K(SO4)2.12H2O) and C(FeSO4.7H2O).