• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제10권4호
• /
• pp.151-162
• /
• 2006

This study investigated into the effects of the colors of warp and weft on the overall colors of fabrics, along with the visual changes of colors by the measuring angle of both warp and weft, by means of cross-dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics. First, the reflectance of polyester is higher than that of cotton over the whole wavelength. Second, the dyeing of polyester uses the disperse dyes and that of cotton uses fiber-reactive dyes, the differences in the features of dyes and the reflectance of fabrics cause the same colors to be perceived different by the angle of observation. Third, the dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics individually with the same color revealed that the dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics in one bath resulted in a small difference in colors between the two fabrics than the separate dyeing in two bathes. In the case of one bath, the dyeing of PET fabrics followed by that of cotton fabrics resulted in a small difference in color than the dyeing in the reversed order. Fourth, when cotton/PET union fabrics were dyed in ten colors, the difference in colors between the two fabrics was small; and due to the difference in the density of warp and weft of union fabrics, some difference was detected in comparison with the results of separate dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics in one bath. The latter did not produce the changes in color which was recognizable with the naked eyes. Fifth, when cotton/PET union fabrics were dyed in ten colors, any color change was not observed by the measuring angle, and the inclination in the direction of warp or weft resulted in the tendency of color-deepening. In the measurement of the latter, the inclination in the direction of weft resulted in the higher color-deepening than that in the direction of warp, due to the influence of weft.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제43권2호
• /
• pp.115-126
• /
• 2005

Environmentally and human compatible chitosan were pretreated on cotton fabrics which were then dyed with 100% persimmon juice. The chitosan concentration was 1% and the chitosan types were high molecular weight chitosan (1980cps), low molecular weight chitosan (18첸), chitosan oligomer and water soluble chitosan. The properties of the fabric surfaces, the dyeabilities, the color fastnesses, the antibacterial activities, the strengths, the elongations and the drape stiffnesses were evaluated. The properties of the chitosanpretreated, persimmon juice-dyed cotton fabrics (CLP) were compared to those of the untreated (CN), chitosan treated (CL) and persimmon juice-dyed fabrics (CP). The results were as follows. The fibers extruded from the surface of CN decreased on CP. The air between the fibers within CN were substituted by chitosan solution or persimmon juiceand decreased within CLP according to SEM observations. The effects of chitosan treatment, the chitosan molecular weights and the degrees of deacetylation of chitosan on the dyeabilities of the persimmon juice-dyed cotton fabric were not distinct. The curing after chitosan padding improved the dyeabilities of CLP compare to noncuring. The strengths of CP decreased and those of CL increased, compared to those of CN. The strengths of CLP were greater than those of CP. The elogations of CP and CL were greater than those of CN. The strengths and elongations of CLP were greater than those of CN. The chitosan treatments improved the strengths but not the elongations. The drape stiffnesses of CL, CP and CLP were greater than those of CN. The antibacterial activites of chitosan pretreated, persimmon juice-dyed cotton fabrics against Staphylococcus aureus were increased by more than 98% by persimmon juice.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제23권6호
• /
• pp.788-799
• /
• 1999

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L. (Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai (Madder) by boil water Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows ; 1. In the of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan wood K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder bluer and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to less red Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural-dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in CIELAB chromaticity co-ordinates. So we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing the colors of natural dyes change to more blue, Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do. 5. The soil-burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제11권6호
• /
• pp.953-960
• /
• 2009

The natural dyeing of fabrics with myrobalan extract was investigated. After dyeing of silk, cotton and rayon with myrobalan extract, the dyeability of myrobalan extract was evaluated with the conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, the changes of dyeability and surface colors by methods of mordanting and color fastness. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the colored solution from myrobalan extract appeared at 272 nm. Therefore, the substance of myrobalan extract was verified as tannin dyes. The optimum dyeing of fabrics was carried out at 30%(o.w.f) dye concentration. Silk fabrics dyed with myrobalan extract showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $80^{\circ}C$ when it was dyed for seventy minutes, while cotton and rayon fabrics showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ when they were dyed for seventy minutes and thirty minutes, respectively. Dyeing operation was carried out in acidic dyebath of pH 3. The K/S value of silk fabric was higher in pre-mordant stage than in post-mordant, while the K/S values of cotton and rayon fabrics were higher in post-mordant stage. The surface colors of dyed fabrics were different according to used mordants: Al and Cu mordanted fabrics were dyed in yellowish colors, while Fe mordanted fabric was dyed in khaki-black color. Light-fastness of the color fastness was improved in Fe-mordant. Washing-fastness was relatively good, and dry cleaning-fastness of dyed fabrics was excellent.

• 한국가정과학회지
• /
• 제5권1호
• /
• pp.42-47
• /
• 2002

Antimicrobial activity of silk and cotton fabrics dyed with gromwell colorants was examined by shake flask method. The effects of bacterial reduction rate on dye uptake and mordanting were explored. The silk(K/S value 8) and cotton fabric (K/S value 4) dyed with gromwell colorants showed high bacterial reduction rate of 99 % and 88 %, respectively. Post-mordanted silk fabric increased at K/S value, also showed higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. But the effects of antimicrobial activity on mordants showed respectively different results. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric except Sn mordant increased at K/S value, but it was not significant. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric showed significantly higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. Therefore, it was considered that dye uptake of cotton fabric dyed with gromwell colorants and mordants were involved in the bacterial reduction rate. It was concluded that gromwell colorants had antimicrobial activity.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• 제5권4호
• /
• pp.303-308
• /
• 2004

A natural colorant was extracted from Cassia tara L. using buffer solutions (pH: 2-11) as extractants. The dyeing solution (Cassia tara L. extract) extracted using pH 9 buffer solution was found to give the highest K/S values of dyed fabrics. Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with Cassia tara L. extract at $60^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with pre-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. It was found that Cassia tara L. extract was polygenetic dyestuffs and its major components were anthraquinones. Studies have been made on the effects of the kind of mordant on dyeing properties and colour fastnesses of cotton and silk fabrics. The K/S of cotton fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using $FeSO_4 >CuSO_4> ZnSO_4> MnSO_4\cong Al_2(SO_4)_3 > NiSo_4 > none$, however, the K/S of silk fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using $FeSO_4 > CuSO_4 > ZnSO_4\cong Al_2(SO_4)_3 > MnSO_4\cong NiSO_4 > none$. It was found that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were largely affected by the colour difference $(\DeltaE)$ between mordanted fabric and control fabric. However, they were not depended on the content of mordanted metal ion of the fabrics. Mordants $FeSO_4$ and CuSO_4$ for cotton fabric, $FeSO_4,\; CuSO_4,\; and\; Al_2(S0_4)_3$ for silk fabric were found to give good light fastness (rating 4).

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제13권4호
• /
• pp.540-549
• /
• 2005

It was the purpose of this study to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment and mordanting on the air-permeability, fastness of the dyestuff to washing, fastness of the dyestuff to light, and antimicrobial effect of cotton and nylon fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were made on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, due to the dye-uptake of the dyestuff component of the Rhusjara ica, the air-permeability values decreased considerably. And due to the action of the mordanting agents, the air-permeability decreased also. The air-permeability decreased more conspicuously in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the chitosan components than in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the cotton fibers or nylon fibers. Nylon dyed fabric exhibited better wash fastness than the cotton dyed fabric. As the number of washing increased, the color of the cotton fabric specimens and nylon fabric specimens, dyed using Rhusjara ica, shifted toward yellowish. The light fastness values were in the range of grade 1${\~}$2, which were very inferior. The light fastness values did not improve according to the mordanting or to the chitosan treatment. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica, the growth rate of the bacteria promoted, on the contrary, compared to that of the control white fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제10권2호
• /
• pp.27-39
• /
• 2006

In this study, physical/chemical characteristics of the fabrics dyed using Japanese pagoda tree which is a yellowish dyestuff was investigated. We tried to estimate the dyeing mechanism among fiber macromolecules, mordants, chitosan, and dyestuffs by measuring the change of air-permeability according to the dyeing process. Also wash fastness and light fastness were measured in order to estimate the fastness according to the dyeing characteristics. When the chitosan pre-treatment was introduced, the wash fastness increased significantly in the cotton fabrics while the fastness did not change in the nylon fabrics significantly. The light fastness was not improved by the chitosan treatment. when the antibacterial activity was measured for the dyed cotton fabrics, Japanese pagoda tree itself did not exhibit antibacterial activity. However, chitosan treated dyed fabrics exhibited low antimicrobial activity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제12권3호
• /
• pp.381-388
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was investigate the dyeing property on chitosan crosslinked cotton fabric with cochineal at variable conditions. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics dyed using cochineal were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeability(K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of crosslinked chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing and light fastness were increased by mordanting, especially Cu and Fe mordanting.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제12권2호
• /
• pp.224-232
• /
• 2010

The natural dyeing of fabrics with persimmon juice(astringent persimmon, sweet persimmon, astringent and sweet persimmon mix) was investigated. After dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with persimmon juice, we evaluated the dyeability of persimmon juice, the observation of fabric surface with high magnification video microscope, physical properties and color fastness with the conditions of repeating times of dyeing and variables of mordants. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The fabrics dyed with astringent persimmon have shown the highest color difference, while the fabrics dyed with sweet persimmon and the fabrics dyed with astringent and sweet persimmon mix have shown similar color differences. With the increase of repeating times of dyeing, the brightness of fabric decreased. However, $a^*$ value increased gradually, so that it became dark brown color. The $a^*$ and $b^*$ values of dyed fabrics with Fe-mordant have dropped significantly, so that they have shown achromatic colors. But the fabrics treated with other mordants have shown yellowish brown colors. On the surface of the fabrics, threads were bonded together by the viscosity of persimmon juice. Regardless of the types of persimmon juice, stiffness was increased after dying, while crease resistance was decreased. The water repellency of silk fabrics were improved than cotton fabrics after dyeing with sweet persimmon juice, but in case of cotton, it hasn't changed. Washing fastness was improved with the EM(Effective Microorganism)-fermented liquid treatment, and rubbing fastness of two fabrics was better in dry condition than in wet condition.