• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.51-61
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• 1998

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of polyester fabrics changed by alkaline hydrolysis. This study analyzed the relations between the change of mechanical property and the hand value according to the weight loss of polyester fabrics. The results are as follows; Objective hand by KES-FB system, revealed that for tensile properties, as the weight loss increased, WT, RT increased and LT decreased. For bending properties, as the weight loss increased, B and 2HB showed smaller values. For shear properties, as the weight loss increased, G, 2HG and 2HG5 decreased. For surface properties, as the weight loss increased, MIU increased, but MMD and SMD did not show any trend. For compression properties, LC, WC and RC did not show significant differences according to the degree of weight loss. In case of hand value, Koshi(stiffness), Hari(anti-drape stiffness), Kisimi(scrooping feeling) and Shinayakasa(flexibility with soft feeling) showed a meaningful results depending on the degree of weight loss. However, Shari(crispness) and Fukurami(fullness and softness) did not show meaningful result. Koshi, Hari and Shinayakasa are high correlation with tensile property, bendibg property shear properties, thickness and weight. Kisimi is high correlation with tensile property, bending property, thickness and weight. Shari, Fukurami and THV did not show any meaningful difference whth any mechanical properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.448-458
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• 2010

Kenaf has a rigid and rough touch that inhibits the use of it as a textile material; therefore, this study developed a novel textile material using kenaf. Kenaf and cotton were blended in the ratio of 3:7 and manufactured as 20' spun yarn that was compared to 20's spun yarn made of 100% cotton. Both kenaf/cotton-blended and 100% cotton spun yarn were constructed as plain woven and knitted fabrics. Four kinds of fabrics were prepared as follows. Plain kenaf/cotton-woven fabrics, plain cotton-woven fabrics, kenaf/cotton jersey, and cotton jersey. A cellulase washing process was carried out to reduce the character of kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics, rigid, and rough touch. All fabrics were pretreated with NaOH. NaOH at the concentrations of 0, 0.25, 1.25, and 2.25mol/L, and cellulase at concentrations of 0, 1, 3 and 5g/L were used since the pretreatment of NaOH has a higher efficiency of weight loss than $Na_2CO_3,\;K2CO_3$ and Triton X-100. The ratio of weight loss, tensile strength, stiffness, drape property, and surface appearance were measured in order to evaluate the efficiency of the washing treatment on fabrics. Kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics exhibited more rigid and rough features than cotton fabrics. A cotton jersey showed significant differences in the degree of stiffness and drape properties. When all fabrics were treated with 1.25mol/L of NaOH and 3g/L of cellulase, kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics showed a higher retention ratio of tensile strength than cotton fabrics after washing despite the increased weight l08s of kenaf-blended fabrics compared to cotton fabrics. The ratio of weight loss for all fabrics was well correlated with flexibility. The washing treatment process made woven fabrics more flexible than knitted fabrics, because the stiffness of woven fabrics made the rubbing actions stronger. Kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics showed a significantly higher ratio of weight loss and more reduction in stiffness than cotton fabrics after the washing treatment. This might be due to the lack of cohesiveness and easy elimination from fabrics. The drape property of kenaf-blended fabrics was superior to cotton fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.93-103
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• 2010

The results of comparison and analysis of dynamical features according to Jacquard structure are as follows. Regarding elongation(E) value in tensile property, the value in the direction of course was found to be larger in all Jacquard structure, except floating Jacquard, than the direction of wale. It could be found that, as to bending strength(B) in Bending Property, the value of bending strength in the direction of course smaller in all the textile(structure) except floating than the direction of wale, so that the ability of curve formation is excellent. And in case of floating Jacquard, it showed the smallest value in the direction of course and wale, so that it was interpreted as Jacquard having a soft feel. Blister Jacquard showed the highest value in both directions of course and wale, so that it was evaluated as Jacquard having the hardest touch. With regard to shearing character(G) and shearing hysteresis(2HG) in Shearing Property, Jacquard indicated the lowest value, so it was evaluated as the textile(structure) having high drape the transformation of whose fabric is easy. In addition, normal Jacquard, transfer Jacquard, blister Jacquard showed a high value, so that it could be known they are Jacquards having stiff touch. The study implies that normal Jacquard, bird's eye Jacquard, etc., which well stretch in the direction of a course like tubular Jacquard course, is better to make the margin a little shorter than the basic margin, and Jacquard that well stretches in the direction of wale like ladder's back Jacquard and floating Jacquard is better to make the margin longer and the length shorter than the basic margin.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1453-1464
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks' segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: 'bulky/extensibility', 'stiffness', 'feeling of weight', 'surface property', 'drapability' and 'moisture property'. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok', cotton fabrics mainly depend on 'surface property' and 'moisture property' and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on 'bulky/extensibility' and 'surface property' In correlation on objective hand and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok'. people aren't satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.155-164
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• 2007

Viscose rayon has advantages such as vivid luster, good dyeability, low static electricity, good absorbance and good spinnability but also has flaws such as easy crease and decrease of physical properties when it gets wetting, and it requires dry cleaning. Therefore in order to synthesize the polymer to solve the problems of rayon while keeping the advantages of it, this study made the high specific gravity polyester for ultra drape property and high contraction polyester for rayon-like fiber having volume, soft and warm sense. The polyester with high specific gravity, 1.47 was made by adding 7 wt% of $BaSO_4$ as additive. High contraction polyester was made by copolymerization by using IPA 5 mole% to increase the amorphous region as comonomer and also using Newpol BPE-20(NPE) 1.5 wt% not to decrease the properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.408-412
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• 2003

The micro structure of POY was modified and a wool-like touch yarn of composite fibers with different shrinkage was made. With this yarn 12 different fabrics with wool like touch were prepared. The characteristic physical property changes of the fabrics examined are as follows: 1. In all cases, the initial high shrinkage stages were observed in hot water treatment and the 3D images of complex multilayer of typical doubling fibers with different shrinkage were also observed in hot air treatment of 170C. 2. The tensile strength changes of satin and plain fabrics with the change of twist count showed similar behavior. However, WT's were slightly higher and RT's was lower in twill and satin fabrics than those in plain fabric. 3. Since a slight decrease of B's of twill fabric found with increasing twist count under given experimental condition, it could be influenced on the anti-drape stiffness was decreased and flexibility was increased. 4. A significant decrease of G values was observed in the twist count 800-1000 T.P.M However, in the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M G values observed were kept nearly constant. 5. MIU of plain and twill fabrics showed a drastic decrease at the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.354-363
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• 2003

In this research, an internet-based fabric information system has been developed. Recently, the numbers of textile industries which have their own homepages to advertise their product fabrics fur apparel through the Internet and textile e-Commerce web sites rapidly increase. Unfortunately, traditional fabric information systems based on direct meeting and trust cannot give sufficient information to numerous visitors of the Internet sites including fabric buyers for apparel. They can just view 3-dimensional fabric images and text-based specifications such as fabric density, composition, colors, weight, etc. To solve these problems, the new fabric information system fur apparel has been developed. The web-based fabric information system is composed of the following six modules; $\circled1$ fabric database management system, $\circled2$ a 3-D fabric drape image viewer to illustrate fabric appearances, $\circled3$ a virtual wearing system to apply a fabric to garment designs, $\circled4$ a fabric property viewer to confirm fabric characteristics, $\circled5$ a QC (quality control) document generator to manufacture high qualify garments with a fabric, and$\circled6$actual display mall to view actual fabrics. The fabric information system is simply performed by visitors clicking the buttons hyper-linked with JAVA applets on web browser. The web-based fabric information system enables the web site visitors to understand fabrics shown on the Internet in more details.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.29-47
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• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.38-45
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• 2009

First of all, the properties imparted to PET fabrics are resistance to and recovery from creasing or wrinkling when wet or dry; high resistance to stretch in the filament yarns but not in the staple; high abrasion resistance; good texture and appearance; resistance to heat ageing; good chemical resistance and good resistance, behind glass, to sunlight. But, the low moisture regain of PET fabric conduces to static troubles in textile processing. Furthermore, garments made from PET may, during wear, develop electric charges which attract to the fabric particles of soil(dirt, swarf, dust) flying in the air, so that the cuffs of shirts, for example, become soiled quickly and are not easily laundered clean. The sericin constitutes 25$\sim$30％ of silk protein and surrounds the fibroin fiber with sticky layer that supports the formation of a cocoon. The useful biochemical properties of sericin protein are oxidation resistant, antibacterial, UV resistant, hydrophilic property, and good affinity with hydrophobic material. These properties can be used as an improving reagent or a coating agent for natural and synthetic fibers, fabrics, and other intermediate products. The sericin is also applied to cross-link, and can be blended with other materials. In this study, we modified the surface of PET fabric by mixture of sericin finishing agent; sericin, polyuretane binder and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-link agent. Also, we investigated the finshing effect; moisture regain, stiffness, handle, drape and electrostatic. The moisture regain of PET fabric treated with sericin finishing agent was higher than that of untreated PET fabric. As a result of evaluating influence about handle of PET fabrics treated with sericin finishing agent, it was confirmed that the sericin finishing agent could be use as a linen like finishing agent.