• Title/Summary/Keyword: Drape

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A Comparative Study of the Draping Pattern based on Setting Waist Base Line of Dress Form (인대의 허리 기준선 설정에 따른 입체 패턴 비교 연구)

  • Yang, Chung-Eun;Kim, Yang-Weon;Lee, Eun-Kyung;Lee, Hae-Young
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.969-977
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    • 2007
  • The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

A Study on the Properties of Knit Jacquard Structure (니트 자카드 조직의 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Ki, Hee-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.77-90
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    • 2015
  • This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

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Analysis of the collar pattern of a double-breasted tailored jacket using virtual fitting - Comparison of collar laying amount according to lapel fold line start position - (가상착의를 활용한 더블브레스트 테일러드 재킷의 칼라 패턴 분석 - 라펠 꺾임선 시작 위치에 따른 칼라의 눕힘 분량 비교 -)

  • Mi Hwa Jun ;Jeongah Jang
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.31 no.5
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    • pp.640-650
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    • 2023
  • This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

Evaluation of a Curtain-Type Radiation Protection Device for Veterinary Interventional Procedures

  • Minsik Choi;Jaepung Han;Changgyu Lim;Jiwoon Park;Sojin Kim;Uhjin Kim;Jinhwa Chang;Dongwoo Chang;Namsoon Lee
    • Journal of Veterinary Clinics
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    • v.41 no.3
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    • pp.157-164
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    • 2024
  • The standard radiation protection method in the angiography suite involves the use of a thyroid shield, a lead apron, and lead glasses. However, exposure to substantial amounts of ionizing radiation can cause cataracts, tumors, and skin erythema. A newly developed curtain-type radiation protection device consists of a curtain drape composed of a five-layer bismuth and lead acrylic head-shielding plate, with both bearing an equivalent 0.25 mm lead thickness. In this study, a quality assurance phantom was used as the patient to create radiation scatter from the radiographic source, and an anthropomorphic mannequin phantom was used as the interventionalist to measure the radiation dose at seven different anatomical locations. Thermoluminescent dosimeters were used to measure the radiation dose. The experimental groups consisted of all-sided or one-sided curtain set-ups, the presence or absence of a conventional shielding system, and the orientation of beam irradiation. Consequently, the curtain-type radiation protection device exhibited better radiation protection range and capabilities than conventional radiation protection systems, especially in safeguarding the forehead, eyes, arms, and feet, with minimal radiation exposure. Moreover, the mean shielding ratios of the conventional shielding system and curtain-type radiation protection device were measured at 51.94% and 93.86%, respectively. Additionally, no significant decrease in the radiation protection range or capability was observed, even with changes in the beam orientation or one-sided protection. Compared with a conventional shielding system, the curtain-type radiation protection device decreased radiation exposure doses and improved comfort. Therefore, it is a potential new radiation protection device for veterinary interventional procedures.

Analysis of Lower Somatotype on Adult Women and Appearance Analysis of Flare Skirts by using the Image Processing (성인 여성의 하반신 체형분석과 염상처리를 이용한 플레어 스커트의 외관분석)

  • Lee, Soo-Jung;Hong, Jeong-Min
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.1 no.3
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    • pp.252-258
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    • 1999
  • The aims of this study is to classify the lower somatotype of adult women and appearance analysis on the shape of flare skirts by using the image processing. Also We have made skirts in order to analyze the various types of appearance of flare skirts by using the image processing. The subjects for our wear test lower somatotype, who were controlled in their waist, abdomen and hip shapes. The flare skirts used for wear test were 112 types(combinated 14 fabric type and 8 lower somatotype). The effect of lower somatotype on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the horizontally hem line section shape and the silhouette of flare skirts with image processing. The data were analyzed by using analysis of variance and Turkey, Duncan multiple range test. The results obtained are summarized as follows: It is shown that the fabric weight elongation differs in fabrics properties, in direction of textures. The shape horizontal section of flare skirt hem line has differed with the number of nodes, wave-height of nodes and breadth of silhouette by fabrics properties and lower somatotype. It is noticed that the breadth of flare skirts by the silhouette has high correlation with the drape ability of fabrics and lower somatotype. Results for our flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somatotype. Therefore we can say that gray-level histograms are correlated with changes in appearance, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somatotype.

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A Study on the Wooden Seated Buddha at Songgyesa Temple in Geochang and the Sculpting Style of Sangjeong, a Monk Sculptor in the Late 18th Century (거창 송계사(松溪寺) 목조여래좌상과 18세기 후반 조각승 상정(尙淨) 불상의 작풍(作風) 연구)

  • YOO, Jaesang
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.54 no.3
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    • pp.242-261
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    • 2021
  • Sangjeong was a sculptor-monk who was active in the mid-to-late 18th Century, and the current study established the overall chronology of Sangjeong's Buddhist statues and their styles based on the six sculptures of Sangjeong already known and the Wooden Seated Buddha of 1767 in Songgyesa Temple, Geochang, which was found to be his last work. All of the Buddhist statues of Sangjeong have commonalities in terms of the appearance of the ears, wrinkles on clothing on the upper and lower body, position of hands, and expression of the lower body. The expression of the lower body, in particular, is classified into three types: Type A, where the clothing drapes through the lotus leaves on the bottom; Type B, with an 'S-shaped' drape over the lower body but no lotus leaves or pedestal; and Type C, with the Buddha and pedestal as a single unit, and the clothing draping through the lotus leaves on the pedestal. It appears that Sangjeong faithfully succeeded the style of Taewon, who was his only instructor for sculpture. This is verified based on the records of his participation in the creation of the Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad and Statue of Arhat in Bongeunsa Temple, Seoul, as the third sculptor-monk out of twelve sculptor-monks, and the reflection of the S-shaped drape on the lower body found on the statue of Buddha in Bongeunsa Temple on all of the statues created by Sangjeong. Not only that, but it was assumed that the expression of the pedestal and hair was also inherited by Sangjeong from Taewon and Jinyeol, who was a sculptor-monk from the early 18th Century. The work of Sangjeong and Taewon showed differences in the volume and thickness of statues, strength of unevenness on the wrinkles of clothing, drapes on the right side of chest, and details of the ears. The current study identified the original styles of each individual sculptor and attempted to categorize the fourteen pieces of ten Buddhist statues reflecting the styles of Sangjeong into Sangjeong-style or Taewon-style.

현대 서양복식에 나타난 이국취향 (Exoticism)에 관한 연구 -1980년대 중반~1991년의 서양복식을 중심으로- (The Study of Exoticism in Western Costume)

  • 송명진;양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.18
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    • pp.291-306
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    • 1992
  • From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion

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Comparison of Mechanical Properties of Electrospun Nanofiber Web Layered Systems and Conventional Breathable Waterproof Fabrics (전기방사한 나노섬유 웹 처리소재와 상용 투습방수소재의 역학적 특성 비교)

  • Youn, Bo-Ram;Lee, Seung-Sin
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.391-402
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    • 2010
  • In this study, breathable waterproof materials were prepared by electrospinning. Five kinds of electrospun nanofiber web layered systems with different levels of nanofiber web density, as well as different substrates and layer structures were fabricated, and their mechanical properties (tensile, bending, shear, compression, surface, and thickness & weight) were measured by the KES-FB system and compared with those of conventional breathable waterproof fabrics (densely woven fabric, PTFE laminated fabric and PU coated fabric). The KES-FB measurements demonstrate that the lab-scale nanofiber web layered systems are more flexible and fuller than commercial nanofiber web layered systems, which have a more compact structure than the lab-scale nanofiber web layered systems. Densely woven fabrics and lab-scale nanofiber web layered systems showed lower values of tensile linearity (LT), bending stiffness (B), and shear stiffness (G) than those of PU coated and PTFE laminated fabric. These results indicate that they are more flexible and have less resistance to the shearing movement, corresponding to a more pliable material having a better drape, than PU coated fabrics and PTFE laminated fabrics.

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A Study on the Paper Clothing -on the basis of handmade paper- (종이 의상에 관한 연구 - 수제지를 중심으로 -)

  • 이주실;김정혜
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.44
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    • pp.181-199
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    • 1999
  • The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

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A Cross-Cultural Research of Knitwear Purchasing Behavior of U.S., Korean, and Chinese Female College Students (글로벌 마케팅을 위한 미국과 한국, 중국 소비자들의 니트웨어 구매 패턴 연구)

  • Lee, Ok-Hee;Kang, Young-Eui
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.15 no.3 s.68
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    • pp.394-404
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of the study was to analyze the difference in knitwear purchasing behaviors of female college students in the U.S., Korea, and China. It was developed questionnaire that included knitwear purchasing behavior that is fashion information sources, evaluation criteria of knitwear products, store attributes of knitwear, knitwear buying places, and purchasing experience of foreign-made knitwear. The final sample used in this study consisted of 119 female college students in U.S., 150 female college students in Korea, and 217 female college students in China. Aged from 18 to 33. ANOVA, factor analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, frequency, and percentage as analysis methods were used. The results of the study were as follows. The preference of knitwear among the respondents was shown highly. This result is due to a world-wide trend of casual clothing, and is to prove, that knitwear is that made with flexibility, drape, and stretch, is the item that is able to satisfy consumer's desires. Knitwear preference of knitwear the U.S. respondents was shown highly, and buying intention of them was also high, not only for sweaters and t-shirts but for pants, skirts, jackets, coats, and dresses as well. Knitwear information the U.S. respondents considered important, was not only purchasing experience but also shop display and magazine advertisements. By evaluating criteria of knitwear, the U.S. respondents considered good fit, design, color, and comfort important, and they didn't consider the country of origin important. By store attributes of knitwear, the U.S. respondents specially considered the display, variety, price level, and sale frequency of merchandise. The respondents of China was shown higher than them of Korea in the intention of all items. Knitwear information the China respondents considered important, was not only purchasing experience but also shop advertisements of Newspaper and magazine and fashion articles in Newspaper and magazine. By evaluating criteria of knitwear, the China respondents considered good fit, design, color, and comfort important, and they considered fiber content and the country of origin higher than the respondents of U.S. By Store attributes of knitwear, the China respondents specially considered product knowledge and friendliness of sales personnel, Layaway payment plan, Brand names, New Fashion, and Dressing Facilities higher than the respondents of U.S. or Korea.

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