• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.56-75
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• 2010

Jeju island is located in far from main land and has very harsh environment that has formed an unique clothing style as well. In addition, the popular belief has been developed with originality even their clothing. Therefore, this study is concerned with costumes worn for various ritual events and to analyze their features in Jeju. The shamanism served 18,000 gods are composed to 12 different types of the events for wealth, safety, heath, sadness or thanks. The costumes worn by officiating priests or 'Simbang(shaman)' depend on the occasion of an event, and they are different for male and female performers. The styles of costumes for religious service can be divided into 7 types: Regulation dress(Jebok), Korean full-dress attire(Dopo), Official uniform(Danryung), Military uniform(Gunbok), Formal dress (Durumagi), Casual wears and Special costumes. The costumes for religion events are not various and splendid as compare with another province in Jeju. Because, when simbang expired, their clothings had been burned according to custom. However, It is important materials for us to know the clothing of time. We should keep studing that costume more as a valuable culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.147-164
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to reproduce the ordinary attire of Yi Seung-hyu, a civil official and writer of the late Goryeo, which will be used to make a his portrait. The reproduced costume consists of a single-layered pyoui (表衣) and jungdan (中單), lined jeogori and baji, and geon (巾), created with reference to historical documents, materials, and portraits. The pyoui was made with samcheokbe, with an H-shaped neck-shoulder band, an oblique single collar, and rectangular gussets. Two skirts were attached on the inside at the back, similarly to dopo. The jungdan also has an oblique single collar, but has an I-shaped neck-shoulder band and triangular gussets. A flat felled seam stitch, whip stitch, and French seam stitch were used in the hemlines and seams of the pyoui and jungdan. The jeogori and baji were made with toju (土紬), and small ties were attached to stabilize them. The geon is a long, oblique hat, which has folded side lines, and was made with flexible black hangra and using a French seam stitch and backstitch. The results include the elements of "restoration, historical research, and portrait costume", and will be maintained as the cultural heritage of Samcheok City.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.133-153
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• 2009

Clothing was excavated when the Bae's clan of Seong-san, Yeong-dong, Chung-buk in Sep. 2, 2004. The tombs that the clothing could be restored were the tombs of Bae Cheon-jo(10th generation) and the tomb of Mrs. Nam of Go-seong, the wife of Bae Sang-gyeong(1lth generation). For identifying the features and methods of sewing used for the clothing of man and woman around Po(coat in Korea in the past) in the 16th to 17th century, this study investigated 12 items from Bae Cheon-jo's tomb(Sibok, Dopo(robe), Jungchimak(outer coat with large sleeves) and Gwa-du and 5 items(Jangok(lady's cloak) and Jungchimak) from Mrs. Nam's tomb of Go-seong. For sewing, broad-stitching, hemming and even-back-stitching were used the most in that order. Furthermore, various kinds of sophisticated stitching including old flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching and buttonhole stitch, clothing made roughly as a shroud and fabric attached on the clothing were also observed. We may not have many opportunities to understand the change of clothing in Korea from mid 16th century to mid 17th century through the clothing of father-in-law and daughter-in-law in a family. As a result, we will be able to understand the features of sewing in a family and from the 16th century to the 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.94-105
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• 2006

This study is focused on the man's costumes of Sadangpae(the troupe of performers) shown in Gamrotaenghwa (감로탱화) during the late Chosun dynasty. Originally Gamrotaenghwa was used as a painting for a Buddhist praying ceremony, 또Young-ga-cheon-do-je(영가천도제). It shows us the lives of the commoners in those days. Gamrotaenghwa reflects the changes of costume style in the late Chosun period. The early styles of po(포, coat) for male performers in the 17th century were changeui(창의) and dopo(도포), which had the front panels(seop) overlapped deeply and sleeves that got wider as time passed. After the 18th century, Male performers wore a simpler coat such as sochangeui(소창의), which had narrow sleeves and long slits on the both sides. Especially the coats of acrobats were fastened on the center front with buttons. Heuklip(흑립: black hat), somoja(소모자: small cap) and jeonlip(전립: wool hat) were used as hats for the male performers. Originally, heuklip was the hat that represented the noble status: yangban(양반). However, it was popularized among the commoners in the late Chosun period. As time passed on, the heuklip became more popular and its shape also changed. Somoja and jeonlip were shown throughout the entire Gamrotaenghwa. Unlike heuklip, those were common hats for Sadangpae. The costumes of entertainers shown in Gamrotaenghwa were very similar to those of the commoners. However, it seems that there were some differences of the costumes depending on the roles they performed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.51-67
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style that were excavated from the tombs of the Yeosan Song family. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Except Dapho, all of the above mentioned coat were usually worn in the late 15th and late 16th centuries. Jikryeong and Cheolik were often worn in both of the centuries. But Aekjureum was often worn in the late 15th century and Jikryeong with no side hem and Jikryeong of Dopo style, in the late 16th century. Generally, the men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style had a short fore part and a long rear part, doubled kalgit of banmokpan style and a narrow sleeve in the late 15th century, while fore and rear parts of the same length, kalgit of ordinary style and the sleeve of bean chaff shape in the late 16th century. In both of the centuries, the coat had the outer Seop that was doubled and used short, narrow coat strings to be adjusted. Samgakmu was used to Jikryeong with no side hem and Aekjureum. Out of the coat, those which were lined or padded or quilted with cotten used Samgakmu, but those which were unlined didn't. To adjust the coat, usually, a pair of short, narrow coat strings was used. The coat had the coat strings directly stitched on them or indirectly connected to them by means of the coat string hanger.

• Lettere Italiane
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• no.36
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• pp.73-97
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• 2012

Danubio è un 'diario di viaggio' dalle sorgenti del fiume fino al Mare Nero, attraverso città importantissime o paesi, ampi paesaggi, popoli, costumi, letterature e lingue diverse. Un itinerario fra romanzo e saggio che racconta la cultura come esperienza esistenziale e ricostruisce a mosaico le civiltà di Mitteleuropa rintracciandone il profilo nei segni della grande storia e nelle effimere tracce della vita quotidiana. L'idea di Mitteleuropa nasce a meta dell'Ottocento per indicare un spazio politico e soprattutto economico egemonizzato dai tedeschi e dagli ungheresi, che piu tardi diventa il simbolo di programmi nazionalisti tedeschi e che poi diventa una dimensione sovranazionale, qualcoca di comune e sottostante a tutte le diverse nazionalità e culture di tante realtà diverse. La Mitteleuropa 'hinternazionale', oggi idealizzata quale armonia di popoli diversi, è stata una realtà dell'impero absburgico, nella sua ultima stagione, una tolleranzte convivenza comprensibiilmente rimpianta dopo la sua fine, anche per il confronto con la barbarie totalitaria che le è succeduta, fra le due guerre mondiali, nello spazio danubiano. L'arte absburgica di governo non vuole imporre una rigida unità ai vari popoli, bensi lasciarli sussistere e convivere nella loro eterogeneità. Secondo Claudio Magris, il Danubio è il simbolo della frontiera, perché il Danubio è un fiume che passa attraverso tante frontiere, è quindi simbolo della necessità e della difficoltà di attraversare frontiere, non soltanto nazionali, politiche, sociali, ma anche psicologiche, culturali, religiose. La nostra identità è sempre fragile e noi dobbiamo accettare questa fragilità, poiché mutiamo nel tempo. L'identità fatta di mescolanze, di sottrazioni e di elisioni non fosse soltanto il destino degli epigoni danubiani, bensì una condizione storica generale, l'esistenza di ogni individuo. Magris dice che siccome nessun popolo, nessuna cultra come nessun individuo sono privi di colpe storiche, rendersi impietosamente conto dei difetti e delle oscurità di tutti, e di se stessi, può essere una proficua premessa di convivenza civile e tollerante. Magris dice che la letteratura è di perse stessa una frontiera, una soglia, una zona sul limitare e insegna a varcare i limiti, ma consiste nel tracciare dei limiti, senza i quali non puo esistere e nemmeno la tensione a superarli per raggiungere qualcosa di piu alto e di piú umano.

• Lettere Italiane
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• no.36
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• pp.125-150
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• 2012

Vittorio Alfieri fu celebrato dagli uomini del Risorgimento come "l'iniziatore ed il padre della rinascita" e il creatore della coscienza nazionale. Per questo è lodato da Foscolo, Manzoni, Leopardi, Mazzini, Gioberti, Oriani, Carducci. Ma insieme con i suoi meriti politici, anche i valori artistici delle sue opere non debbono essere dimenticati. Anche sul pensiero e sull'opera dell'Alfieri influirono le ideologie tipiche del secondo Settecento, l'Illuminismo e il nascente Romanticismo, in lui intrecciandosi e scontrandosi ad un tempo. Il suo interesse per lo studio dell'uomo, per la concezione meccanicistica del mondo, la lontananza dalla religione per l'assoluta libertà e l'avversione verso il dispotismo, collegano Alfieri alla dottrina illuminista. I temi letterari illuministici, volti a chiarificare le coscienze e ad apportare il progresso sociale e civile, sono affrontati dal poeta non in modo distaccato, ma con l'emotività e le inquietudini del pensiero romantico. Ma i letterati romantici dell'Ottocento furono piuttosto ostili all'opera dell'Alfieri, accusandola di astratezza, di lontananza dagli interessi e dalla realtà della vita moderna e di assenza di senso storico. Invece nei primi anni del Novecento, Croce lo presenta come iniziatore della nuova letteratura italiana, con la quale egli avrebbe in comune l'individualismo, la passionalità, l'amore per la solitudine, la malinconia. Anche se gli manca l'ansia religiosa sul fine e il valore della vita e l'interessamento per la storia, ecc., secondo il Croce si può definire un protoromantico. Nelle sue opere ci sono, sotto l'aspetto dell'Illuminismo l'odio istintivo contro la tirannide e l'amore per la libertà, e sotto quello protoromantico esplode l'urto violento di sentimenti e passioni e l'esaltazione della morte eroica dei protagonisti. E anche Saul e Mirra descrivono l'idea dell'umanità eroica che muore dopo una lunga vicenda di miseria e di abbiezione. L'idea dell'umanità nuova in Saul e Mirra è l'idea degli uomini nuovi che egli desiderava.

• Lettere Italiane
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• no.30
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• pp.205-229
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• 2010

L'italiano ha diverse forme di pronomi clitici che vengono distinti in genere, numero e persona a seconda del nome di partenza. Quando appare un pronome clitico, l'ordine delle parole nella frase cambia: dal tipo normale SVO si passa al tipo SOV come in coreano. I pronomi clitici hanno una caratteristica molto diversa rispetto sia a piena NP sia ad una NP debole, e non sono compatibili con questi NP all'interno della frase, il che significa che i pronomi clitici si muovono in posizione superficiale lasciando la loro posizione originale dopo il verbo. Osservando questo fenomeno (movimento clitico da [DP, VP] a [spec, AgrOP]) e analizzando in questa sede solo il caso del pronome diretto si è cercato di evidenziare le regole precise di tale movimento determinato da "Case licensing" e "feature checking." Seguendo e accettando pienamente la precedente analisi di Belletti(1999), in cui vengono proposte due vie di procedimento del movimento dentro il AgrOP (una è [spec, AgrOP]; l'altra, [Agro, AgrOP], propongo qui l'esistenza di un ordine preciso in tale movimento: nel caso in cui un pronome diretto prenda una via di [spec, AgrOP], 'V' si muove prima fino ad arrivare alla [Agro, AgrSP], poi, 'pro' prosegue la sua strada fino alla [pro, AgrSP], e alla fine, il pronome diretto sale fino alla [spec, TP] per formare la costruzione proclitica; nel caso in cui un pronome diretto prenda invece l'altra via di [Agro, AgrOP], 'pro' sale prima fino alla [spec, AgrSP] tramite il movimento 'spec to spec', successivamente il 'pronome diretto' si muove verso la [Agro, AgrSP], e infine 'V' si sposta verso la [Agro, AgrSP] per formare la costruzione enclitica.