• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.164-180
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• 2024

In the context of a globalized society where diversity, equity, and inclusion (DE&I) have emerged as pivotal values, the fashion industry is undergoing scrutiny for its practices related to body DE&I. This study examines the nature of the discourse surrounding body DE&I within the fashion industry, focusing on how such discussions are shaped, disseminated, and manifested in both the industry and broader society. Critical discourse analysis is applied by utilizing, content from the New York Times and leveraging Fairclough's analytical framework encompassing textual, discursive, and social practices. The findings indicate that the New York Times emphasizes diversity, with a significant focus on the shapes and sizes of women's bodies, developing a narrative centered around women's bodies through visible and representative domains. The analysis suggests conflicted discourse, with prevailing critiques against the fashion industry's standardization of beauty and superficial inclusivity efforts. Moreover, the industry's adaptation to social demands for body DE&I is observed as sporadic, often leveraging non-normative bodies as a marketing strategy rather than genuinely embracing diversity. This study highlights the importance of continuous, in-depth discourse and social practices regarding DE&I within the fashion industry, as well as the need for systemic changes and policies that genuinely reflect societal demands for inclusivity. The findings provide a foundation for future investigations into the multifaceted relationship between fashion discourse, DE&I, and social practices, advocating for a more inclusive and critically aware fashion industry.

• Journal of Korean Academy of Nursing
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.61-70
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to identify the producing process for Korean nursing knowledge as applied by Foucault's discourse analytic method. By Foucault's discourse analytic method, the problem is not what is knowledge but what sort of knowledge is made up through specific level of practice. A Korean body of nursing knowledge has been discussed since 1980. At the end of 19th century, missionaries transplanted western nursing knowledge and method to Korea. Western nursing knowledge and methods have been developed continuously with both merits and demerits to Korean society. Recently our world has be come a global community via advances in transportation and correspondence. Although each person is different in skin color and shape. there is a clear line between Oriental people and Western people. Nursing science is only one in our world. but western humanistic nursing practice based on western worldview and human life has limits. It is natural that the Koreans as Oriental people have a systemic nursing science to reveal the specific experiential and concrete body of nursing knowledge rooted in the Korean worldview and human life. Nursing science is to understand human beings, to promote health. to prevent illness. to restore health. to alleviate suffering and to search for principles needed throughout all of human life. In Korea, now is the quickening period to shape a Korean body of nursing knowledge because of a shortage of nursing language in matters of intellectual recognition, and unfamiliar practical nursing field where there is no familiarity in the system of nursing research methodology. In reviewing articles from the Journal of the Nurses' Academic Society on Korean body of nursing knowledge, it was found that there are two common features. The first, human body and mind are inseperable that is one unit in this world and health is keeping a harmonious relationship between human body and mind. The second, Korean nursing practice is based on human nature and family ties. Accordingly discourse analysis has a good future prospect to produce a Korean body of nursing knowledge for analytic research on body and mind monism and family centered care based on human nature and family ties.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.61-73
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• 2018

Power is the driving force of society, and the generation of power is inevitable. as long as society is rganized hierarchically. According to Michael Foucault's discourse modern power operates as a mechanism of 'panopticon', a system that monitors the 'body' of man through discipline. Moreover. fashion as acts as a symbol of beauty that continues to co-exist with power for the purpose of exposing status and authority, and for displaying the trends within a culture. So, it is necessary to study fashion design according to the changing power structure that exists in society. The aim of this study is to suggest types of creative fashion design process by visualizing the Foucault's power discourse through the image associative action. The four types of creative fashion design that have been drawn by visualizing Foucault's power discourse are as follow: disciplinary power, imprisonment power and knowledge power. The first type of fashion design method is to emphasize the shoulder by using shoulder pads, strings, tabs, and incisions in the clothing. The second method is to expose the body by using see-through material and manipulating its composition to expose the body. Third method is to borrowing elements of underwear. Fourth method is to utilize patterns that represent power, such as weapons, bones, blood, muscles, skulls, and various human imagesin the clothing. Through this study we expect to utilize creative fashion design to visualize concepts of the humanities, such as philosophical discourse.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.56-63
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• 2013

This study provides comparative analysis on the parodying of the body and political powers in the traditional animation and Shrek Series based on the discourse of Foucault. For the research, parody theories and Foucault's discourse were reviewed through the literature study, and Shrek Series was analyzed through positive study. The Shrek Series overturned stereotypes of the traditional animation by means of parody, especially showing a true body and a political power in the post-modern society. Foucault focused on the body and newly changed political power in the post-modern society. A body was changed into resistant and combative forms rather than obedient and submissive under control of the community power. In addition, political power was changed into relationship-oriented, decentralized and creative power rather than the centralized and class-based. In the traditional fairy tales, heroes and heroines are beautiful and perfect characters who obtain wealth and honor and live a happy life forever. However, heros and heroines in the Shrek Series are not attractive and do not have the ideal body shape, but rather have creative and active personalities and show indifference towards wealth and honor. Furthermore, their dress colors show the change into lower value and higher chroma. The Shrek Series is a future-oriented animation which created a fluid body and a creative political power in the post-modern society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.29-39
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• 2013

In this study, the image of the male body represented in fashion advertisement is analyzed based on discourses on the male body. Fashion brand advertisements, which emphasized the images of the male body, were selected from two magazines: GQ, a men's magazine, and VOGUE, a representative women's magazine. The published dates of the selected images were from Feb. 2010 to Oct. 2012, and these images were used for the analysis. The study results of the discourse on the male body appearing in fashion advertisement based on the discussion of changing masculinity suggests the following 4 features: i) macho, powerful and muscular male representing the hegemonic manhood; ii) refined and decorated male representing the wealthy and disengaged figure of a successful businessman; iii) androgynous male represented by the deconstruction of masculinity and femininity embedded in gender; iv) as an aesthetic object, the male with sex role of changed from a subject to an ornament, whose body becomes the object of voyeuristic view. This study tried to grasp the ideal and modern masculinity, and in particular, attempted to offer suggestions in different approaches to the male body image depending on the consumer type in order to enhance the brand image. This new masculinity is thought to be a foundation on which the advertisement and products suitable for the demands of future customers can be produced.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.599-614
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• 2017

With the increasing media representation of aging as negative and abnormal, anti-aging products and discourses are spreading to younger generations. This paper analyzes the anti-aging discourse in a fashion magazine targeted towards women in their 20s. It quantitatively analyzes the historical development of the antiaging industry and discourses from 1994 to 2014 in the magazine "$C{\acute{e}}ci$". It also analyzes the patterns of signification associated with aging in the magazine through the use of critical discourse analysis. This paper identifies five major discourses -"segmentation of the definitions of youthful appearance", "scientific and medical discourse", "self-care discourse", "prevention of aging", and "social values of youthful appearances". The paper finds that the construction of anti-aging discourses towards women in their 20s is heavily influenced by the close link between the anti-aging industry and the fashion media. It also confirms the ideology of self-development though a rigorous appearance-management that is strongly imposed on Korean women and subsequently reproduced in an anti-aging discourse towards women in their 20s.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.22
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• pp.329-354
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• 2011

This paper aims to probe into the meaning of Ranhou in Mandarin Chinese and to account for discourse functions of it in radio call-in programme. For this purpose, the present study investigates the meaning of Ran and Hou repectively at first and explains the change of meaning of Ranhou, because we assume that Ranhou is compounded by Ran and Hou, and the core meaning is derived from its compounded meaning. Then we examine which time category Ranhou belongs to more based on the concept of time(reference, event, discourse) in Schiffrin(1987), and examine also where it is located within turn. Following this examination, we analysis and explain discourse functions what it is situated. Therethrough, we understand that 1) Ran has 'agreement or confirmation of preceded utterance' therefore has anaphoric meaning, and Hou has 'after' in the meaning cline: back of body-back part-behind-after-retarded(proposed by Heine et al. 1991), so that Ranhou has 'after agreement or confirmation of preceded utterance of mine' and extends to 'on premise preceded utterance or event' furthermore, and therefore can have possibility having various functions; 2) Ranhou has various functions in natural language in spite of the institutional setting. It can indicate (1) temporal relation of events, (2) logic relation of two(or more) events, e.g. causality, elaboration, concession, list, (3) turn maintence, acquisition, management, (4) verbal filler.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.573-585
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• 2023

Comprehending the prevailing ideals of the body within a specific era requires grasping the intricate interplay between social phenomena and the evolution of clothing. Accordingly, this study investigates the distinctive facets of the perception of the Neo-Confucian body as reflected in men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty. We examine a comprehensive body of scholarship, literature, and historical records concerning the body and dress. Additionally, we also employ a framework developed by M. Y. Kim, which categorizes the Neo-Confucian body in three ways: as the natural body, the cultural body, and the body as a fully-realized moral subject. Our findings unveil three crucial insights: firstly, guided by Neo-Confucian discourse positing appearance as a manifestation of innate energy (氣), men's dress was deliberately designed to demarcate stylistic distinctions in women's dress; secondly, the Chinese gwan (冠) was employed as a tool of self-cultivation (修身) to symbolize the legitimacy of Joseon's Neo-Confucian governance; and thirdly, sim-ui (深衣), a philosophical emblem of Confucianism extensively represented across through an intensified exploration of historical sources, served as a means to consolidate the political standing of the Neo-Confucian faction. As a consequence of these factors, the attire of noble men conferred upon them both sexual and moral ascendancy as political entities; men's dress became a visual manifestation of the legitimacy of their power, thus embodying Neo-Confucian ideals. This study carries significance by applying a discourse analysis approach to Korean dress research and elucidating the factors underlying the development of men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.430-448
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• 2011

This study analyzes the stereotyped femininity with a focus on body codes, which has been continuously expressed in fashion illustrations from the late $19^{th}$ century to the year 2010, and examines the changes in its meaning. Stereotyped femininity was reorganized by the changes in female sex role effected by social changes, as well as by the body discourse and feminism in the late $20^{th}$ century, These socio-cultural backgrounds led to the change in the meaning of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. The stereotyped women in fashion illustrations are characterized by gender-oriented body, and the typical image of women was reproduced with the marks of poses and looks that feature passiveness and subordination. Then, the gender-oriented body since 1990's shifted to active meaning that positively revealed sexual desire. The space positioned by women is also the symbol of gender. In line with changes over time, the backgrounds in fashion illustrations have changed from private space such as home and nature to public space such as city, which reflects diversification and expansion of space for women. This study has identified the changes in meaning, based on the analysis of the characteristics of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. Above all, women who were objectified as a subject by dominant discourse have established the concept of active body as an entity. In addition, the symbol of typical femininity is "slim" and "beauty", which reflects the change from the emphasis on childbirth-related femininity to self-control and conquer. On the other hand, the typical features expressed through body have reproduced dichotomous structure, but the emergence of body and background deviated from gender has reorganized the symbolic order of gender.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20 no.1 s.69
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• pp.55-64
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• 2007

Non-verbal communications are important because they support and replace verbal communication. Body language of various non-verbal communications is the communication using the body. In animation, expression of body language is very important because characters play an important role in communicating the scenario. Animation has a dual communication structure, different from general communication. One is the communication between the speaker character and the hearer character, the other is the image and the audience, which includes the communication between the speaker character and the hearer character. In this study, we divide the body language from the characters into the discourse-in act and discourse-out act according to this dual structure and classify it into adaptors, emblem, illustrator, regulator, affect display by a functional approach method. Especially, the illustrator is subdivided into pragmatic speech act. Finally, this study analyzes the features of body language in animation and represents animation character's body language for an effective expression of the communications in animation.