• Title/Summary/Keyword: Design Criticism

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A Study on Discomposition Expressed in the Contemporary Fashion (현대패션에 나타난 탈구성현상 고찰)

  • 조말희
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.111-121
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    • 2000
  • Jacques Derrida took off the self-contradiction of structuralism and built up a theory so called "Deconstruct". By issuing a series of papers which strongly criticized the existing western philosophy, he drew into 'strangers' alienated and deconstructed the methodology of structuralism by getting out of the antagonistic thought attaching great importance to Logos. Discomposition is realized by exposing the ex-structural elements existed inside of structuralism, and is an open philosophy recognizing the dignity and freedom of an individual than the general structure in the methodology of structuralism. Discomposition is a theory for criticizing the conservative thought frame traditional western philosophy, and deconstruct as a method of criticism persists a new epistemology by questioning to all texts including a text of tradition and deconstructing these texts. The contemporary fashion in 1990's shows the discompositive appearances with the different form. textile print and color. By the analysis according to the deconstruct process, the characters of discompositive fashion are undecidability decentring, disorder, and dislocation. Many designers like Martin Margiella, Alexander Mcqueen, and Ann Demeulemeester express these characters on their fashion. The result of this process, the characters of discompositive design can be classified matamorphosis, harmony of the disharmony and coexistence of the ambivalence.bivalence.

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What is Critical Fashion? (크리티컬 패션에 관한 고찰)

  • Jung, Jung-hee;Yim, Eun-hyuk
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.21 no.5
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    • pp.540-551
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    • 2019
  • This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers' socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.

Luxury Fashion Brands' Patronage of Arts and Culture as Corporate Philanthropy (럭셔리 패션브랜드의 사회공헌활동으로서의 문화예술지원)

  • Yi, Myeongseon;Beom, Seohee;Yim, Eunhyuk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.45 no.3
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    • pp.546-558
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    • 2021
  • As consumers' demand for corporate social responsibility (CSR) has increased, luxury fashion brands have been providing support for arts and culture as CSR activities. The purpose of this study is to examine patronage of arts and culture as corporate philanthropy and to analyze the motives luxury fashion brands have for supporting arts and culture. The study investigates patronage of arts and culture through literature reviews and conducts case studies of luxury fashion brands' patronage. The results of the analysis are as follows: first, patronage based on public interest reduces the social costs of arts and culture and helps to create aesthetic experiences for the public; second, sustainable patronage is not only priceless PR for luxury fashion brands, it also supports the development of arts and culture; third, authentic patronage obviates the criticism that luxury fashion brands only support arts and culture for the purposes of profit, by separating business operations from patronage. In conclusion, those three elements are at the heart of patronage for the arts and culture and fashion companies need to support culture and the arts by taking a long-term perspective when it comes to creating social value.

A Comparative Study on the Expression of the Traditionality in Hotel Guest Room Design - Focused on the Asian Top Grade Hotels - (호텔 객실에서의 전통성 표현에 관한 연구 - 국내외 특급호텔 사례분석을 중심으로 -)

  • Song, Kyu Man;Lee, Ji Young
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.21 no.2
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    • pp.197-206
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    • 2012
  • This study focuses on comparative study of the representation of 'traditionality' in Asian hotel guest rooms. Hotel can be a concentration of the country's culture and tradition and provide unique experience to guests through its space, decoration, and material. However, most hotels in Korea are lack of a strong identity based on the Korean culture and tradition, due to adoptation of the western hotel styles without any criticism. The purpose of this study was to investigate the expression methods of the traditionality in Asian hotel guest rooms to provide design guideline to enhance identity of hotel guest rooms in Korea. Through analysis of the previous researches, criteria of the three design application methods and the five design elements were defined to analyze the representation of the traditonality. Design application methods were categorized as "Original form", "Partial adoption", and "Metaphor". Five design elements include "Shape", "Material", "Color", "Object", and "Pattern". Thirty nine Asian hotels containing the traditional design elements were explored in the study. In result, design application methods in Korea used all three methods equally, while other Asian countries used mainly the Partial adoption and Metaphor methods to express their traditions rather than the Original form method. All five deign elements were mostly used in case of the Original form methods, and two or three elements among five elements were used for the Partial adoption and Metaphor methods. The traditional representation of hotel guest rooms in Korea, reflecting current thinking, living pattern and culture, will be a solution for the new hotel design as well as elevation of Korea's status to a higher level.

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The Development Patterns of Visual Concepts in Contemporary Landscape Design - With a Focus on Visibility from Expanded Visuality - (현대조경설계에 있어서 시각 개념의 전개 양상 - 가시성에서 확장된 시각성을 중심으로 -)

  • Jang, Il-Young;Kim, Jin-Seon
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.34 no.4 s.117
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2006
  • This study emphasizes users' participation, a living-transforming visuality, as users have appeared to be a central element of landscape design but ignored before. Also this study tries to propose meaning of extended visuality in contemporary landscape design on the basis of visual criticism on simple perception-and contemplations convention-based landscape design. For these purposes, this study reviews characteristics of visual changes appeared in modern reductionist paintings. In other words, arts can be interpreted in polysemous ways through bodies' experience. Deconstructive concepts derived from the theoretical reviews can be categorized into three including the participation of the users' bodies from a contemplative point of view, textuality and intertextuality, and experiences from works. Those concepts were used to criticize the previous discourse on landscape designs and to analyze various issues in the theories, themes and techniques in contemporary landscape design. The significance of the expanded visuality in contemporary landscape design is that it brings the users' voluntary participation. This structure can serve as a tool to obtain the users' perceptive effects. At the same time, it can be regarded as a process of establishing the relationships between the users and the works. Thus emphasis is placed not only on the influences of the effects structure of the works themselves, but also on the many different dimensions related to the users' bodies. It implies that the meaning of design is not determined by the designer but a product resulted from the voluntary relationships between users and works. These findings lead to ambiguous distinctions between arts everyday life, and eventually to the end of the concepts of formative dichotomous aesthetics and their effectiveness. Finding of this study call for not only redefining the space where landscape design is created and communicated, but also reconsidering the concepts of landscape design and its ontological meanings.

A Study on the possibility of various Interpretation of Poetical Signification in Space Design - Focus on the Semantics generative conversion of construction Factors in Interior Design - (공간디자인에 있어 시적 의미작용에 대한 해석가능성 연구 - 실내디자인 구성요소의 의미 구성적 변환을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Eunl-Ji
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.18 no.5
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    • pp.71-79
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    • 2009
  • This research understands semantics-system in contemporary space design as a poetic form. It provides that the possibility of various interpretation of space and makes to escape from insipid formal logic of compulsion uniform meaning. In order to unfold this argument, poetic semantics system has to be revealed using conversion of articulation factors in text of space(semantics and syntax). First of all, after setting up the articulation system of space language, we have to understand the conversion of articulation factors that generate a new grammar breaking up the rule of old syntax. And the various expression of form in Contemporary Space design focuses on a poetic expression, that is, the abstraction system fused by space factors(conversion of articulation system). In this method of research to recognize the subject of space in architecture, the importance of interpretation has to be highlighted, as the importance of language is emphasized that intermediates between object and interpretation. The reason to recognize Contemporary space design as a text is that it is a gathering of symbol as a object of interpretation and a mediator. The important issue of this study is to research how and what to transmit by poetic semantics system in contemporary space design. It brings about a poetic problem what it intends to becomes(the problem of meaning operation) in a narrow sense and a interpretational problem what it intends to do(the problem of communication). When we define interpretation the technique of defining a text, it involves the premise of inevitableness of multiple understanding, or the possibility to Interpret variously. In the end the ambiguity of poetic language and the infinity of moaning process as the moaning expansion system in contemporary space design is the flexible measure to solve the self-criticism.

The Analysis of the Current Situation in Design Change of Temporary Structures (가설구조물의 설계반영실태 분석)

  • Lee, Y.S.;Lee, M.G.;Kim, Y.G.;Paik, S.W.;Song, C.G.;Han, D.H.;Oh, T.K.
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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    • v.29 no.2
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    • pp.45-52
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    • 2014
  • The construction accidents in temporary structures have ceaselessly happened and these mostly lead to serious disasters associated with public criticism. Recently, the accidents under construction due to incomplete or faulty design has repeatedly occurred such as the overturned girder accident in Jangnam Bridge, the submerged incident in Noryangjin and the slab collapse in Banghwa Bridge. In order to prevent such accidents due to the faulty design in temporary structures, it's important to set up the solid construction management system which allows the reasonable design change if necessary. In this regard, this study provides the basic data for the reasonable design change in temporary structures by conducting a question investigation to the construction, design, and supervising companies. From the survey results, the kind and range of the temporary structures which should considers the design change were suggested by the deduced reasonable processes.

Consumer Consciousness Toward Well-being Trend and Well-being Behaviors (웰빙트랜드에 대한 소비자의식 및 웰빙행동)

  • Yoo, Hyun-Jung
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.15 no.2
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    • pp.261-274
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study was to explore the well-being behaviors and the consciousness toward well-being trend. The well-being behaviors were composed of 4 dimensions such as regular exercise, purchase the organic agricultural products, use of the air cleaner, and diet for health. The consumer consciousness toward well-being trend was composed of 3 factors such as the marketing criticism, the pursuit of mental richness and orientation for rural life. Especially, the differences of well-being behavior and consumer consciousness toward well-being trend according to socio-demographic variables. The main results were as follows: 1. The well-being trend was extended every consumer, but consumers were not after well-being trends or goods. In addition to consumers thought that well-being trend was stoked by marketers. 2. The well-being behaviors and consumer consciousness were statistically different among groups by the socio-demographic variables.

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A Study on the Transformation and Meaning of Landscape Architectural Drawing (조경드로잉의 변천과 의미에 관한 연구)

    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.27 no.2
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    • pp.140-151
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study is to trace historical changes and to show broad spectrums in landscape architectural drawing. Drawing has been both a locus of interpreting a site and a vehicle of imagining the new landscape. The designed landscape might be influenced by the way to draw in landscape design. Despite of its importance, landscape architectural drawing has rarely been discussed. Here, the drawing will be understood as theoretical issues and texts for criticism. Recently, the drawing has primarily been recognized in functional and instrumental ways. The stereotypes office drawings such as plan, section, perspective, axonometric are typical examples. Its symbolic and metaphoric dimensions have been seriously diminished. As a result, the poetic power in the designed landscape might be devastated. Composite drawing, notation are the alternative drawings to overcome the above mentioned dilemma along with the adaption of collage and photomontage. Finally, I would argue that landscape architectural drawing can be a creative tool to elicit the idea and to reveal the trace of memory. It could be also a poetic locus to postulating the vision. Designers should utilize both traditional drawing and experimental drawing in order to reconcile the instrumental representation with the symbolic representation.

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Consumer Attitude and Satisfaction with Well-being Products: A Focus on the Expectation-disconfirmation Paradigm (소비자의 웰빙태도 및 웰빙상품에 대한 만족도 : 기대-불일치 패러다임을 중심으로)

  • Nam, Su-Jung;Yoo, Hyun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.45 no.5
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study was to explore the well-being attitude and use the expectation-disconfirmation model to assess consumer satisfaction with well-being products. The consumer expectations, performance and disconfirmation scales were composed of 7 items of 5-likert scales. Consumer satisfaction with well-being products was measured with one-item-measurement scale. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The well-being attitude consists of 4 factors. : consumption of the well-being products, pursuit of mental well-being, criticism of commercial fashion, and pursuit of harmony with natural life. 2. Well-being attitude influences the consumers' expectation, performance, and satisfaction with well-being products. 3. Consumer expectation for well-being products has no influence on satisfaction, but performance and disconfirmation have a high degree of influence on satisfaction.