• 디자인학연구
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.231-240
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• 2002

전통적으로 의상과 신체의 관계는 고정적인 것이었으나, 해체적 사고는 의상에서 신체의 존재와 부재뿐만 아니라 착용자의 정체성에 대한 회의를 불러 일으켰다 그 결과 의상의 중심 개념인 신체의 해체를 통해 가시적인 신체뿐만 아니라 실존하는 신체를 넘어선 더 큰 의미의 신체인 메타 바디를 제시하였다 이는 의상의 합리성은 물론 표현 방법이나 형태에 영향을 미쳐 다양한 방법의 신체 부재현상으로 나타났다. 그 유형은 1. 성 정체성의 부재 2. 조화된 전체성의 부재 3. 형태의 부재 4. 의상으로서의 의미 부재로 표현되었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.87-100
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics of deconestructionism expressed in Issey Myake's fashion who is one of the most creative designers in the world. Method and contents of this study are as follows. Through the review of literatures, three major categories such as interminacy of meaning, decentring, and intertextuality and eight subcategories have been identified as major features of deconestructionism. These subcategories for content analysis were selected to examine the characteristics of deconstructionism expressed in Issey Myake's design in depth. Interminacy of meaning was divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors while decentring into qualities of cross-gender, subculture, anti-fashion, and post-humanism. Lastly, intertextuality was classified into factors of disordered mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from total 349 designs on the website,www.firstview.com, which carries Issey Miyake's collection from 2002 S/S through 2006 F/W. 2 fashion major analysts including the researcher participated in 1st analysis and two another fashion major analysts participated in 2nd analysis. The final level of consistency between analysts was over 97% for all categories. The data analysis quantitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and qualitatively evaluates the characteristics of design. The result is as follows. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, Miyake has introduced the various novelly textiles to fashion and employed the mixtured styles, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has used various fabrics in order to inflict shock and contrast but still create subtle harmony, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of Miyake's fashion design. Miyake has employed unconstructed expression techniques, which has projected unusual images free from basic forms of designs and also has used the unstructured styles which dismantle harmony and balance-the common rule of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. He has demonstrated a unique perspective on cloth construction and presented a love for artistic collaboration in the development of his collections A distinct manufactured aesthetic is exaggerated, even hyperbolic. Thirdly, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in Miyake's design, however, it has been visibly decreased after 2002 S/S.

• 복식
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• 제55권8호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2005

This study aims to find out how the deconstruction and combination of genres is being carried out in modern art and design, to look at the role of art and fashion in modern culture through a study of genre hybrid tendencies in fashion, and to reposition fashion as a tool that sensitively reflects changes in society and culture. The heightening of deconstructionism, gadgets, high technology which provide a background for the fall of all art and design styles and genres and the overlap and diffusion of different styles, is the fundamental reason behind genre hybrid. In the genre hybrids of fashion, the four characteristics of nomadism, amusement, wearability and noticeability were especially strong. As a result of studying the genre hybrids in modern fashion, I found out that the idea of wearing in fashion was made easier with the deconstruction and combination of fashion with different genres. It was also apparent that the genre hybrid phenomenon will continue in the future due to the continuous development of technology.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.133-140
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• 2005

Jacques Derrida, a leading theorist of the post-structuralism, has explicated how the material reality is subordinated to the ideality of form, by noticing the platonic concept, 'chora', which implicates the spatiality as the matrix and also by actualizing its essential meaning as the femininity. On the basis of the idea of the platonic 'chora', the Derridian deconstructive spatiality and its feminist oriented enlargement of Grosz this study is purposed to elucidate the architectural idea of Zaha Hadid that is located in the similar horizon with the deconstructionism. On the one hand it is focused on the explication of the new concept of space, which is dealt with the deconstruction of the traditional concept of space, on the other on the inference of the feminity of the originally understood spatiality. With this inference it is finally intended to reexamine the foundation of the discussion for the architectural space that must be ahead of the discussion for the difference between the masculine and the feminine space. If it is fundamentally and manifoldly executed, not only the architectural paradigm will enter into an renewed phase, but also the various ways toward the new direction of the architecture be explored.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.92-101
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• 2008

In the current age, as the importance of image is increased, brand images are strengthened, and various ways of expressing space are suggested considering the life styles of consumers. Recently, flagship stores are attempting various ways of expressing interior deigns and the flow of life culture, which can maximize the characteristics of image in a large, complex space. Centering on this trend, this study is conducted to explore an objective standard for the stylistic image characteristics reflecting the formative expression trend; to investigate various expression methods of images that are suggested by flagship stores; and to suggest the indicators of design. Based on this background, the formative trend is classified into the expression trends of minimalism and deconstructionism. An image evaluation test was conducted on the selected brand cases by applying the classification, and the following results are obtained from a comparative analysis. In this study, a stylistic analysis of expression methods is suggested from the stylistic image characteristics of each brand as well as from the reliability and validity of the expression trend. It can be concluded that such stylistic image characteristics are important factors in relation with fashion and architecture, and they can be used for differentiating design expression methods.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.181-192
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to clarify the expression of conceptual image by which the modern graphic artists use for creating new visual images and the characteristics in expression of the major fashion images in fashion illustration. In the present study, major findings on the basis of the analysis of expression of visual images in fashion illustration since 1980s are as follow: The conceptual image expression in the visual arts is based on the eight techniques. They are dual image, operation of image, copying·reproduction of image, deconstruction of image, pictorial image, symbolization of image, mystification of image, and making humorous image. Since 1980s, the major fashion images in fashion illustration are mainly classified as classic image, humor image, fantastic image, natural image, avant-garde image, simple image, casual image and feminine image. The characteristics in expression of these images in fashion illustration are; 1) fortification of dual image in classic image, 2) activation in humor image 3) grotesque fantastic image, 4) the modernization of natural image, etc. In addition that, the image of avant-garde is expressed by Postermodernism, Deconstructionism, Techno etc. since 1980s. Also, simple image of the modern composition, casual image of daily life, and feminine image which is emphasized with eroticism are also included in these characteristic in expression of images since 1980s.

• 복식
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.103-115
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is understanding modern woman's various aesthetic values and aesthetic sense through observing expression aspects of gender images in the 1990s military fashion and analyzing their aesthetic characteristics and formative factors. Gender images in military fashion have expressed the masculine image of authoritative image and offensive image and offensive image, and the feminine image of conservative image and ostentatious image, sensual image. The authoritative image showed authority and dignity of military uniform by using the classic military uniform's image. This spoke for desire of women to rise their position. Heroism and androcentrism affected as its formation factor. The offensive image destroyed original dignified image of military uniform by that resistance to authoritative image and existing gender identity appeared as way-out form and deconstructive expression. Anti-establishment spirit, resistance to gender identity, and deconstructionism affected as its formation factor. The conservative image expressed military fashion only with slim and soft silhouette, curved line, color, and simple details by magnifying feminity. Fallen man's authority affected as its formation factor. The ostentatious image expressed military fashion with magnifying accessories such as gold button and belt by women who wanted to display ostentatiously their social position and charm. The aspiration for class of elite affected as its formation factor. The sensual image intended to show erotic voluptuous beauty of woman's body by indirect and direct body exposure. Narcissism, desire to show, and sexual amusement affected as its formation factor.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to understanding the intrinsic meanings and aesthetic characteristics expressed by current fashion trends in neckties and to develop a new and unique fashion design for neckties. This study used precedent studies and related literatures to review the changes in neckties and the types of knots used over time. The findings were then verified by photographs from fashion magazines and collections from the 1990s. The results of this study are as follows. First, neckties, generally regarded as a symbol of masculinity, are often mixed with other men's or women's clothing items rather than being worn by themselves, and they provide an androgynous characteristic in women's fashion. This transcendence of femininity or masculinity reflects the human desire to be a more perfect being by sharing each others characteristics, and it can be seen in contemporary beauty trends. Second, neckties have been transformed into scarves, waist belts, front-fly omaments, and so forth. They are used to express a new and sensational sense, the sense of deconstructionism, by breaking away from stereotypes and changing the shape of neckties atypically.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.65-86
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a hanbok design method in response to recent changes in consumption trends that emphasize new aesthetic and cultural values, which contrast with the existing cultural order and repetitive normative styles in fashion designing. With this in mind, our study explores the main features of deconstruction fashion design as a theoretical guide for developing a methodology for deconstruction hanbok design, on the basis of which new, experimental and creative hanbok design works can be produced. To do this, we first investigate current trends in hanbok design and changing concepts of Korean fashion design through literature review of previous studies. Secondly, we explore deconstructionism and analyze its features to lay down the foundation for a post-modern approach in hanbok design. As the result of analysis, the main features of deconstruction fashion design are summarized as the following: 1) non-finishing, 2) decomposing and recomposing, 3) recycling, 4) transparent, 5) grunge, 6) flattening, and 7) exaggeration. Based on the identified core features of deconstruction fashion design, we develop a creative method of hanbok design in the context of modern Korean fashion design. Finally, we show five design outputs via a 3D digital fashion design process using the CLO3D software program.