• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.4 no.4
• /
• pp.327-338
• /
• 2002

The analysis and examination of this study are focussed on the external deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier. The external deconstruction is a way of expression faithful to the literal meaning of 'deconstruction' and is the applied case of exposure, destruction, poverty, and decomposition as they are. The method and scope of this study are from 1980's to present, and the followings are the results of this examination focussed on the various literature of philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and foreign fashion journals. The exposure phenomena through the deconstruction expressed repeatedly in the works of Gaultier deconstructed the fixed idea of 'the inner wear should be worn inside the outer wear' and at the same time denied the dichotomical interpretation of the exposure and suppression, the traditional beauty and decadent beauty, the chastity and unchastity, the asceticism and sexuality, and obscured the notion of the inner wear and outer wear. The destructive deconstruction expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier introduced the elements such as hippy, punk, and kitsch, slashed before making dresses, crumpled unseemly like wastepaper, or made dresses with textures like paper scraps, and through destroying textures, yielded shock effects and tension. Poverty, through borrowing from the outwardly poor-looking elements of design, i.e. the patch work, decolor, dye, fading, fringing, incompletion, and handmadeness, liberated dresses and their ornaments from the outside. The traditional dresses were dresses having certain forms with formative beauty, but Gaultier disassembled dresses and raised questions about the logic of dresses themselves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
• /
• v.24 no.1
• /
• pp.43-49
• /
• 2009

The primary focus of this study is to develop a practical safety management manual that can be served as a guideline for building deconstruction works over the entire deconstruction processes; say, pre- and during the deconstruction process. Built upon the analysis findings of domestic deconstruction codes and laws, deconstruction manuals from several countries, and actual deconstruction practices, a safety manual is proposed. Total of 940 safety items are included in the manual according to the predetermined 15 safety categories. To improve the efficiency of end users' utilization, the proposed manual is embodied in the form of e-safety manual. Detailed descriptions and discussions on research findings are elaborated. in the main text.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.1 no.1 s.1
• /
• pp.218-227
• /
• 1992

What is Deconstruction which is now the focus of the current architectural discussion? In order to know the Deconstruction properly, we should review the background of Modernism and Post-Modernism in architecture. As we know, the 1968's serial uprisings of democratic movement in Paris changed human concepts about art dramatically. As the result of that movement new ideas such as Structuralism, Post-structuralism, Deconstruction, and Semiotics arose. In architecture some ideas like construotioniem were not practised fully in 1920's and only the Modernism has been realized as the idea expressing the modern Utopia. In Korea situation to interprete architectural ideas into real buildings are different from those of other developed countries. Korean architects are seemed to use Deconstructionist vocabularies as fashionable styles without being concious of the root and history of Deconstruction. For Koreans the contexts are different. Although Modernism and Functionalism have been practised vigorously in Korea as other countries, the situations are ambiguous and complicated in applying new ideas introduced after Moderism. So they are in chaos. What could be our orthodox ideology to be worth pursuing in arthitecture? There are several sample works of Deconstruction in Korea done by Jo, Geon young, Kim, In Chul and Bae Byung-Gil. Aithough their works cannot be interpreted as real Deconstruction in European or american view-points, I think they are good examples of Korean Deconstruction that express contemporary Korean architecture and its social background.

• Korean Journal of Construction Engineering and Management
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.45-53
• /
• 2010

Safety management for building deconstruction works has been received extremely limited attention in the domestic construction society. Lack of systematic safety management practices and defective education system lead to the high level of fatality compared to that of advanced countries. Under the above domestic deconstruction environment, the authors intend to develope an integrated safety management guidelines that covers both mechanical and partial deconstruction works. Research outcome includes such specific educational materials as safety manual, checklists, pocket pamphlets, and e-manuals. Furthermore, to validate the applicability of the above materials, questionnaire survey and interviews were conducted. Detailed descriptions are provided for each research outcome.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
• /
• no.21
• /
• pp.147-153
• /
• 1999

Deconstruction, which aims at art for pure art's sake, along with post-modernism which pursues for de-unification and variety, is trend of design characterizing the contemporary society. Responding to this trend, in Korean the design which advocates post-modernism has been begun and the trend of deconstruction spreads among young architects and designers and this trend is shown in furniture, accessories and lighting design, as well as in interior desigv. This study is under the assumption that the movement of recovering the limits of the existing one is the thinking of deconstructiov. By analyzing and considering the theory and works of Peter Eisenman who shows the trend of deconstruction, this study tries to disclose the design theory of deconstruction and get the reasonable approach toward the progress of design resulting from the progress of human being, science, and humanities.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.2 s.67
• /
• pp.326-338
• /
• 2007

This paper examines the works produced from 2000, the first year of the new millenium, to the late 2006 with a focus on those of Jean Paul Gaultier, a representative designer of deconstruction, in an effort to determine the aesthetic characters of deconstructional fashion. In this context, this paper deals with the theoretical study on the concepts and features of deconstruction as a part of analysis into its fashion using the works of Gaultier as a major source viewed to typically demonstrate the deconstructional characters of fashion. For this purpose, a survey was conducted to 155 works of Gaultier featured from 2001 to 2006 mostly in Vogue, the popular and influencing magazine of the USA(39 pieces in 2001, 30 in 2002, 29 in 2003, 23 in 2004, 12 in 2005 and 22 in 2006, respectively). In particular, 106 fashion pictures were put to analysis as they seemed to represent deconstruction intensively. The deconstructional characters of his works were examined in the categories of difference, inter-meaning, inter-textuality and decomposition on the basis of preceding studies, which resulted in the following outcomes: First, difference was found in 38 works out of 106 images, accounting for 36%, the biggest frequency; Second, inter-meaning accounted for 33% with 35 pieces, most frequently next to difference; Third, inter-textuality followed inter-meaning with 17 images or 15% in terms of frequency; Fourth, decomposition was revealed in 16 images in the same ratio of 15% as inter-textuality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
• /
• pp.414-424
• /
• 2005

This study aims to suggest new directions for the development of make-up design by understanding characteristics of deconstruction make-up and to search for new directions and methods in theme expressions and design conceptions by making illustrations with deconstruction themes. This study examines conceptual characteristics of Derrida's deconstruction, and analyzes the various deconstruction make-up styles through the famous fashion magazines such as Beauty Collection, Collections, Fem, Modain, and Vogue since 1997. The make-up illustration works in this study were made depending on these styles. At first, the nature of deconsouction make-up can be explained as deconstruction of existing methods, deconstruction of the sexes and deconstruction of history or ethnicity. The deconstruction of existing methods can be subdivided into decadence make-up, detester make-up, graphic make-up and collage make-up. Deconstruction of the sexes can be explained androgynous make-up. Deconstruction of history or ethnicity is subdivided into white makeup, ancient Egyptian dark eye make-up and raceless make-up. The deconstruction make-up illustrations present infinite possibilities in expression styles through three dimensional expressions and media mixture using not only drawing materials including watercolor, poster-color, and color pencils but also objets including magazines, coarse fabrics, screentone, beads, suede, sand and so on. The study shows that since deconstruction make-up illustrations are not limited to depiction-centered expressions, they serve creating unique images and future inspirations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.29 no.1
• /
• pp.65-86
• /
• 2021

This study aims to develop a hanbok design method in response to recent changes in consumption trends that emphasize new aesthetic and cultural values, which contrast with the existing cultural order and repetitive normative styles in fashion designing. With this in mind, our study explores the main features of deconstruction fashion design as a theoretical guide for developing a methodology for deconstruction hanbok design, on the basis of which new, experimental and creative hanbok design works can be produced. To do this, we first investigate current trends in hanbok design and changing concepts of Korean fashion design through literature review of previous studies. Secondly, we explore deconstructionism and analyze its features to lay down the foundation for a post-modern approach in hanbok design. As the result of analysis, the main features of deconstruction fashion design are summarized as the following: 1) non-finishing, 2) decomposing and recomposing, 3) recycling, 4) transparent, 5) grunge, 6) flattening, and 7) exaggeration. Based on the identified core features of deconstruction fashion design, we develop a creative method of hanbok design in the context of modern Korean fashion design. Finally, we show five design outputs via a 3D digital fashion design process using the CLO3D software program.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.9 no.4
• /
• pp.574-591
• /
• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
• /
• no.40
• /
• pp.34-41
• /
• 2003

A purpose of this study is to comprehend a concept of 'Open Space', realization of a deconstruction, presented in his works, based on a deconstruction and surrealism Coop Himmelblau's philosophical contemplation and to look into how this concept is interpreted in spaces. A concept of 'Open Space' is functioned as not a singular meaning but a multiple meaning accompanied with other formative ingredient and contemplation, scientific paradigm and a realation with a surroundings. The concept of 'Open Space' in their architentural space is applied. First, the space openness that represents to the extreme a concept 'Open Space', as a 3D designing ways that demolishes a structure and outgrows an ex siting thinking pattern, represents multiple grade spaces and an anti-gravity space. In a material, using glass and iron provides a spacial transparency and through this, visibly liberal sense that an interior and exterior is felt as an unification. Second, an non-expressive box pattern repulses to a spatial rank nature, outgrowing an uniform geometrical system, through demolishing a geometrical system, an edge and fold pattern. This is, as an anti-gravity, dynamic a typical structure, outgrowing an orthogonal system, interpreted as a composite meaning without division in spatial area. Third, the collage is used to represent a complexity and pluralism in representing 'Open space'. The collage that forms a image through combining a fragmentary elements into being a space change, composite constitution and spatial amusement. Thus, It is worthwhile to study how the collage that forms a diverse shape will be developed making what impact as an age and surroundings changed. As we contemplate in former part, Coop Himmelblou has deployed 'deconstruction beyond deconstruction' realm as just their midterm concept in their works like the words 'The architecture must climb', the deconstructive architect. A studying for their works reflecting the 'Open Space' concept based on deconstruction must be lasted and this enables us to comprehend space concept containing an architecture and interior design.