• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.99-110
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• 2022

본 연구는 일반적인 체형의 여성과 구분되는 특징을 가지고 있는 플러스 사이즈 여성을 대상으로 상반신 의류 제작의 기초가 되는 보디스 원형을 개발하고자 한다. 이를 통하여 비만 인구의 증가로 시장이 활성화되고 있는 플러스 사이즈 여성 의류 개발의 기초가 되는 자료를 제공하고자 한다. 1차 외관 및 의복압 평가를 통해 옆목점 이동, 뒤진동다트 분량 추가, 앞처짐분 추가 등의 패턴을 수정하였다. 2차 평가를 통해 옆선 수직, 뒤중심선 목부분 들뜸, 뒤진동다트 분량 추가 등을 수정하였다. 3차 평가를 통해서는 옆선의 수직 분량 추가, 뒤진동다트 분량 추가를 통해 최종 패턴 제도법을 개발하였다. 20대 플러스 사이즈 여성 체형의 경우 복부의 돌출로 옆선의 설정 및 밑단의 설정 방법에 일반 체형과 구별되는 제도법이 요구되었다. 본 연구는 20대 플러스 사이즈 여성의 체형에 적합한 보디스 원형 제도법을 제시하였다는 점에 그 의의가 있다. 후속 연구에서는 실제 의복 제작을 통한 착용감 평가가 이루어져야 할 것으로 생각된다.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.439-448
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• 2018

This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.387-403
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new torso pattern for the schoolgirl of a tween generation who had different somatotype from children and teenagers. The subjects in this study were female elementary school students of fifth or sixth grade. Through a sensory evaluation of four existing torso patterns, the first research torso pattern was developed. Drafting methods of each item, which closed to the optimum value three, were selected. The differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified through a Wilcoxon's ranked sum test. The final research torso pattern was developed through adjusting the drafting methods according to the deviation from the optimum value three. The schoolgirl of a tween generation is at the time to show the remarkable breast development compared with a waist circumference, so the bust drafting was defined as B/4+ 1.25cm separately front and back. The drafting of a waist circumference was defined as W/4+1cm separately front and back which taken the ease amounts of the somatotype into consideration of the schoolgirl of a tween generation. A princess line was used instead of a waist dart because their hip circumference was more developed than a waist circumference. The crossed amount of a front hemline was 0.3cm and that of a back hemline was 0.7cm. and the princess line of the position was drawn with a straight line at a right angle of the back waistline. The armhole depth was determined B/4-1cm in consideration of the aesthetic and the trend, although the effective movement of upper arm was required.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2015

This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.17-34
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• 2023

This study aimed to develop a fitted torso pattern with an improved fit for inverted-triangular males in their twenties. For this study, six torso patterns were collected, compared and evaluated, and a fitted torso pattern was developed using virtual fittings. The research results are as follows. First, the fitted torso pattern received a good rating as a result of the virtual fitting evaluation: waist dart set 2 of the front; the amount of comfort is set at 5 cm around the chest, 4 cm around the waist and 10 cm around the hips. Second, the evaluation of virtual fitting of the development pattern showed that fit evaluation was 4.11/5 points, ease evaluation was 6.53/7 points, and that the stress map and airgap were suitable for the human body. Third, the actual fit evaluation of the development pattern was 4.25/5 points, 6.35/7 points for ease evaluation, and 4.81/5 points for motion evaluation. Fourth, there was no significant difference between the results of the virtual and actual fitting evaluation with the objectivity test. It is therefore possible to apply a pattern developed through a virtual fitting to an actual human body and to confirm the objectivity of the pattern.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.