• Title/Summary/Keyword: DARTS

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Design Analysis and Apparel Patternmaking of Lingerie Look (란제리룩의 디자인 분석 및 실물 패턴제작)

  • Yoon, Jin-Ah;Lee, Myoung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.7 s.107
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    • pp.152-166
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

Study of Development of Torso Pattern according to Somatotype (체형별 토르소 원형의 개발에 관한 연구 -다트(Dart) 배분을 중심으로-)

  • 김소라;송미령
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.21 no.2
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    • pp.262-276
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study was to develop torso patterns according to the somatotype and thus to contribute to the ready-made industry. Classification of the somatotypes was based on each individual's lateral and frontal view and development of torso patterns according to the somatotype was to center on the darts. The subjects in this study were female college students of 18 to 24 year old. This study was carried out by the following procedures: 1. Classification of the somatotypes was based on each individual's lateral and frontal view. The somatotypes were classified into 18 types. 2. Eighteen subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics and average mea- surements were chosen. 3. Subjects were clothed and a sensory evaluation was carried out. 4. Experiments of alterations were carried out. The quantities of revision of torso patterns due to the difference of somatotypes were measured through these. These method were due to the items of the sensory evaluation. 5. By obtaining the results of the sensory evaluation and experiments of alterations, the torso patterns according to the somatotypes were developed. These were inputted to the CAD System and compared with one another. 6. Grading of the torso pattern according to each somatotype was carried out and thus a file of torso patterns was made according to the somatotypes.

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A Study on the Functional Improvement of 119 Rescue Uniforms (119구조대원복의 기능성 향상을 위한 연구 - 서울시내 119구조대를 중심으로 -)

  • 이유진;최혜선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.28 no.11
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    • pp.1384-1394
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    • 2004
  • The purposes of this study were to investigate the current performance of 119 rescue uniforms and to improve them in terms of fitness, mobility, functionality, and convenience. This study was conducted a questionnaire survey on rescuers in 22 rescue squads in Seoul through direct. observations and face-to-face interviews to investigate the dissatisfaction of their uniforms. According to the results of this survey, respondents were highly dissatisfied with the fitness of uniforms, design, and functionality. liking into consideration of the problems found through this survey, an experimental uniform was developed as follows. The girth and width of the experimental uniform were designed to be more ample than the current uniforms and the jacket could be worn over pants. And the size and the number of pockets were increased in both the Jacket and trousers. In addition, the hems of the sleeves and trousers as well as the fly front of the jacket were improved. Furthermore, darts were added to the front and back of the knees to improve knee movement. Then an experimental uniform was evaluated through three sequences of wearing tests to compare it with the current uniforms: the evaluation of the appearance, mobility. and performance at field activity. According to these tests, the experimental uniform was found to be more satisfactory than former one.

Ergonomic Design of Working Uniform for the Aircraft Mechanics (항공정비복 인간공학적 디자인 개발)

  • Lim, Hyun-Ju;Choi, Hei-Sun;Lee, Kyung-Mi;Kim, Soo-A
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.5
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    • pp.681-691
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    • 2008
  • Taking into consideration both the inconveniences reported with current working uniform for the aircraft mechanics and the subjects' requirements mentioned in preceded survey, the researchers designed an ergonomic sample garments with improved motional flexibility and comfort. To improve motional flexibility, extra folds were added to the back of the garments to allow for ease of motion of limbs, so that the material would not be drawn up by the motion of the arms. Darts were added to the elbow, hip, the knee. Furthermore, by increasing the length of the waist centerline, the hip region would not be drawn up. For improved comfort, $CoolMax^{(R)}$ was used as lining material for the armpit and back region to discharge swear promptly. Subjects and panels were asked to evaluate the sample garment that followed an ergonomic design and pattern. According to the results, the sample garment was evaluated more highly than the existing working uniform in appearance and motional flexibility. The field tests by three aircraft mechanics working in the Office of Forestry were also demonstrated that the sample garment was advanced in terms of motional flexibility and comfort.

A Study on the Evaluation of Jacket Pattern for Working Women (직장여성을 위한 재킷의 착의 평가방법에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Yeong-Hui;Kim, Hye-Gyeong;Seo, Chu-Yeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.21 no.8
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    • pp.1365-1375
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    • 1997
  • Jacket is the basic formal dress for working women, and one of the most frequently worn by them. It has, however, some problems caused by movement, depending on how well it fits. To improve fitness of jacket, this study compared and evaluated the state of fitness objectively by employing a numerical system in relation with clothing and body. We made three experimental jackets based on the previous jacket patterns and used Moire Photo-graphy to measure the amounts of space between clothes and body from the overlap cross section map. The results obtained from this study were summarized as follows; 1. According to the measurement result of the pattern by using the One-dimension measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern B was larger than the other two patterns. The amounts of space of each part showed the difference of the positions of princess lines, and the different sizes of the darts. 2. From the result of Moire Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of somatotype. In addition, we could analyze the differences of the patterns with Moire Photography. 3. The amounts of space for waist part was larger than those for other parts. Pattern B scored the largest amount of space for all parts compared with pattern A and C. 4. For only waist part, there existed a significant difference in the average amount of space for the three patterns.

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Optimal Matrix Standardization for Pattern Flattening Using Grid Method -Focused on Young Women's Upper Front Shell- (Grid method에 의한 3차원 형상의 평면전개를 위한 optimal matrix 표준화 연구 -$18{\sim}24$세 여성 Upper Front Shell을 중심으로-)

  • Choi, Young-Lim;Nam, Yun-Ja;Choi, Kueng-Mi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.8
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    • pp.1242-1252
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    • 2006
  • Many applications in computer graphics require complex, highly detailed models. However, to control processing time, it is often desirable to use approximations in place of excessively detailed models. Therefore, we have developed the notion of an optimal matrix to simplify the model surface which can then rapidly obtain high quality 2D patterns by flattening the 3D surface. Firstly, the woman's 3D body was modeled based on Size Korea data. Secondly, the 3D model was divided by shell and block for the pattern draft. Thirdly, each block was flattened by the grid and bridge method. Finally, we select the optimal matrix and demonstrate it's efficiency and quality. The proposed approach accommodates surfaces with darts, which are commonly utilized in the clothing industry to reduce the deformation of surface forming and flattening. The resulting optimal matrix could be an initiation of standardization for pattern flattening. This can facilitate much better approximations, in both efficiency and exactness.

A Study on the Use of 3D Human Body Surface Shape Scan Data for Apparel Pattern Making (의류 패턴 설계를 위한 삼차원 인체 체표면 스캔 데이터 활용에 관한 연구)

  • 천종숙;서동애;이관석
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.10 no.6
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    • pp.709-717
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    • 2002
  • In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

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A Study on the Design for a Boll Jointed Doll's Costume with the Ladies' Vogue of Bok-yo in the Early-middle Joseon Dynasty (조선 초.중기 양반부녀복식의 복요(服妖) 유행을 응용한 구체관절인형 고증의상 디자인 연구)

  • Choi, Hae-Yool
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.9
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    • pp.1386-1397
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    • 2009
  • This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.

Implementation of Music Embedded System Software Using Real Time Software Analysis and Design Method (실시간 소프트웨어 분석 및 설계 기법을 이용한 뮤직 임베디드시스템 소프트웨어의 구현)

  • Choi, Seong-Min;Oh, Hoon
    • The KIPS Transactions:PartD
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    • v.15D no.2
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    • pp.213-222
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    • 2008
  • The existing approaches for the music application have not considered a real-time multi-tasking model. So, it suffers from a high complexity and a low flexibility in design as well as lack of predictability for the timely execution of critical tasks. In this paper, we design a new concurrent tasking architecture for a real-time embedded music system and examine if all real-time tasks can finish execution within their respective time constraints. The design is implemented on the Linux based Xhyper272 Board that uses the Intel Bulverde microprocessor.

Dynamic Character Analysis of 3-beam Slab Orbits depending on the Hardening of Rail Pad Stiffnesses (3중보 슬래브궤도의 레일패드강성의 경화에 따른 동적거동 특성분석)

  • Choi, Hyun-Su;Choi, Jin-Yu;Kim, Jung-Hun;Park, Dae-Geun;Kang, Young-Jong
    • Proceedings of the KSR Conference
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    • 2008.11b
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    • pp.870-873
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    • 2008
  • 레일패드는 궤도전체의 탄성확보 뿐만 아니라 열차하중에 의해 침목으로 전달되는 충격을 완화시켜 침목과 도상의 파손을 방지하는 역할을 하는데, 통과톤수의 증가와 기후적 요인에 의하여 패드가 열화되면 패드의 강성이 증가하게 된다. 패드의 강성이 증가하게 되면 레일을 통해 침목으로 전달되는 충격하중이 증가하게 되어 침목의 파손을 유발할 수 있을 뿐만 아니라 침목하면의 도상에도 과도한 충격하중을 전달하여 도상의 손상을 가속화시킬 수 있다. 또한 레일패드의 강성변화는 궤도의 소음과 레일의 파상마모의 진전에도 영향을 미치게 된다. 따라서 레일패드의 공용기간 중에 적정한 강성을 유지할 필요가 있으며, 통과톤수의 증가에 따른 레일패드의 경화도를 산정하는 방법과 레일패드의 경화가 궤도에 미치는 영향을 정량적으로 분석하여 레일패드의 교체주기에 관한 기준을 마련할 필요가 있다. 본 연구에서는 슬래브의 질량과 일정속도대역에서의 패드강성의 민감도분석을 하여 그 결과를 비교하고 레일패드경화에 따른 대상궤도의 동적거동을 수치해석을 통하여 패드강성과 차량주행속도에 따른 윤중의 변동량과 레일의 변위, 가속도 그리고 침목의 변위, 가속도의 변화정도를 분석해 보았다. 궤도시스템의 동적해석을 위한 해석 프로그램으로는 네덜란드 델프트 공과대학에서 개발된 궤도시스템 전용 해석 프로그램인 DARTS(The dynamic analysis of a rail track structure)를 사용하였다. 대상궤도는 국내 1단계 경부고속철도에서 사용되고 있는 3중보 무도상궤도를 사용하였다.

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