• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.54-65
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• 1996

The purposes of this study were 1) to present the optimum slacks pattern for young men, 2) to develope a methodology to draft basic slacks pattern using AutoCAD The total crotch legth and the shape of the crutch line were determined by anthropometric data analysis. The total crotch length was calculated with the waist girth, the hip girth and the crotch length measurements. The anthropometric data utilized for this procedure was National Anthropometric Survey of Korea, 1992. And multidimensional anthropometric measurements were carried out for 6 male college students between the age of 18 to 24. The subjects were measured with the Martin's anthropometer and the sliding gauge. Mean, standard deviation and t-test were performed for statistical analysis of the data. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in AutoCAD. The automatic drafting was based on the Muller's slacks pattern drafting method, the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calcuated using the multiple regression equation. The experimental pattern developed to accomodate individual body wleasurements expected to produce customized apparel production in QRS(Quick Response System) production system.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.912-922
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• 2012

With a long crotch length and much ease in the hip area, baggy pants are visually expressed in a variety of designs when compared with regular pants. The purpose of this study is to define the image differences of various baggy pants designs according to hip circumference and crotch length ease. To that end, this study deduced the visual image variable of experimental baggy pants and analyzed visual images according to changes in hip circumference and crotch length. Nine baggy pants with different levels of hip circumference and crotch length ease were produced as experimental pants. The image of each pair of experimental baggy pants was evaluated based on pictures taken of the pants worn by a woman in her 20s with a standard body figure. The image assessment team was composed of 105 clothing majors. The research results are as follows. Four visual image factors of experimental baggy pants were extracted: whole body compensation, lower body compensation, hip compensation, and waist compensation. Among the 4 factors, the whole body compensation factor was shown as the most representative factor. The body compensation image was higher with less hip circumference ease in the experimental baggy pants, and more hip circumference ease created the optical illusion of a larger body figure, presenting a significant difference between waist circumference and hip circumference. The lower body compensation factor, hip compensation factor, and waist compensation factor all showed a significant influence on changes in hip circumference ease. This result shows that changes in hip circumference ease exerted more influence on the body compensation image than did changes in crotch length ease. The results of this study provide basic data for predicting visual images according to differences in the level of ease in baggy pants, helping people select clothing suitable to their preferences and body shapes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.284-293
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• 2015

This study intends to analyze the fit of directly-imported American casual pants for Korean female college students in terms of appearance and comfortableness. The authors carried out a wearing test with sample pants from 3 brands (DKNY: A, Gap: B, Polo: C) that had the most market share and that were mostly preferred by Korean female college students. Results showed that pants A had insufficient ease in the crotch, as the depth of the crotch was short. The hip girth received a low assessment in terms of appearance. Moreover, the hem widths were wide while the pants length was long. Pants B were expected to be most appropriate for Korean women's bodies, as they had the longest crotch depth among the three brands. However, the pants appeared to pull downward due to the narrow thigh and the knee girth and hem width. Moreover, the crotch girth and hip girth received a poor appearance assessment. Pants C were rated as satisfactory for their thigh girth, knee girth, and hem width. However, the crotch was uncomfortable, as it had a short crotch depth. The hip girth received a low appearance assessment. This study suggests that a pattern adjustment is required for directly-imported American pants to provide a better fit for the bodies of Korean women. The crotch depths should be approximately 17.5 cm. The hem widths should be approximately 20 cm. We also suggest a leg length of 75 cm, a waist girth of 86 cm, and a hip girth of 97 cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.29-39
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• 2002

It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.9
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• pp.137-146
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• 2008

This study was conducted in order to spread out lower body 3D scan data of men in their twenties. The aim was to achieve slacks pattern with ease allowance through comparison with existing flat patterns. For conversion of 3D scan data into 20 pattern, reference lines were established by using Rapid Foam in 3D shape analysis software. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD were used to convert 20 pattern earned with straight posture of 3D scan data into slacks pattern by using Triangle Simplification & Runge-Kutta Method. In order to achieve this we needed to set a line 9cm below the hip line, to array vertex of each block to crease line while maintaining the horizontal line. And then we needed to set ease allowance in back crotch and to set waist circumference or hip circumference ease allowance in side seam of slacks. Results showed that long front crotch length can be achieved if 3D scan data is compared with 20 existing flat pattern. Slacks pattern that raise front crotch by about 1.5cm compared to back crotch and also possess ease allowance in back crotch area are great in appearance evaluation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.9_10
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• pp.1048-1059
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• 2003

This study focusses pattern draft and grading of jeans for women in their 20s, who consume jeans the most. Pattern was drafted based on existing patterns collected from companies. It is different from the existing educational patterns. It suggests new sizing system for twenties referring to sizes used companies and grading rule and method. he results were as follows; 1. Companies manufacture 2-8 sizes and they referred to the Korean Industrial Standards, KS K 0051, for their sizing system. 2. Drawing method for Pattern of the study had following measurements for each part: in the case of waist circumference, front part was W/4+1.5cm, back part was W14+2cm, front hip circumference was H/4-1.5cm, crotch line was the crotch length (practical measurement), hip circumference was (upper crotch line length)/5+0.5cm, front crotch part was 2.7cm, back crotch part was W/5+2.7cm, knee height was (the length of leg)/2+6cm and the circumference of knee and the tip of pants were 40cm. Through the wearing test on the subject of twenties, researched pattern received higher ratings, especially in appearance than the existing pattern. 3. 5 sizes system was made referred to the sizing system of companies and National Anthropometric Survey of Korean in 1997 Grading rule for 12 grading points of front part and 13 grading points of back part was suggested. Results of wearing test on the graded patterns showed high ratings similar to standard size.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.3 s.31
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• pp.268-285
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• 1989

The purpose of this thesis is to understand the concrete forms of the traditional Chinese trousers and finally to compare the forms and cuts of the Chinese, Japanese and Korean trousers, which shared the same form in the beginning. The literature survey helps to draw the following conclusions: 1. The first trousers of ancient China were adapted from the nomadic people of the North Asia. 2. The ancient Chinese had both forms of trousers consited of(a) I-letter typed crotch line and (b)$\lambda$-letter typed crotch-line. 3. The folk trousers of China consist mainly of $\lambda$-letter typed seamline which is the trouser form shared among some of the North-Eastern Asiatic people. 4. The open trousers are worn over the closed crotch trousers. 5. The open crotch trousers seems to be developed from the leggings of the nomadic people.

• Korean journal of applied entomology
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.441-448
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• 2014

We conducted taxonomic study of Languriinae in Korea. Nine species that belong to two genera of one tribe were identified in Korea. Two species, Anadastus ruficeps (Crotch) and Anadastus praetermissus (Janson), were recorded for the first time in Korea. Description, photographs of adults, illustrations of diagnostic characteristics, and a key have been provided.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.699-714
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest a methodology to grasp the design method of industrial slacks pattern for women in their early twenties. The result of this study is as follows: 1. The result of the questionnaire showed that the design of rear center gradient was most important and the rear center gradient was designed by shifting waist line and hip line to a suitable degree.; below the waist by 4cm, the girth was measured and the ease of $0{\sim}1cm$ was applied to it, and the ease of hip girth was $3.2{\pm}1.2cm$, and rear center gradient was $2.2{\pm}1cm$, and front crotch extension was $2.8{\pm}0.5cm$, while rear crotch extension was $6.3{\pm}0.5cm$. 2. By comparing rear center gradient which was selected as an important design item with total crotch length and hip girth, I selected industrial pattern and educational pattern, and evaluated them on human bodies. In the result of ANOVA analysis, there were meaningful differences in 8 items: the ease of front waist girth, the ease of front abdomen, the ease of front hip girth, rumples in the side lines, the location of rear waist line, etc. 3. The design method of slacks pattern suitable for women in their early twenties was suggested as follows: the location of waist girth is below waist by $2.5{\sim}3cm$; the ease of waist girth is $0{\sim}1cm$; the ease of hip girth is $2{\sim}3cm$; total crotch length is body size - 5cm; rear center gradient is $2.5{\pm}0.5cm$; rear crotch extension is $7{\pm}0.5cm$; front crotch extension is 3cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.