• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.337-343
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• 2000

Physical properties of matt georgette knitted fabrics, which has been developed recently, were investigated to provide fundamental information for the textile industry. Dimensional characteristics were examined with three different loop lengths, where the plain knitted fabrics were knitted with cotton yam and polyester yarn. The matt georgette plain knitted stitch was fully relaxed after wet relaxation treatment at $130^{\circ}C$ for 30minutes and subsequent tumble dry treatment at $70^{\circ}C$ for 90minutes. As the treatment temperature of wet relaxation became higher and the loop length did shorter, all of stitch density, course density and wale density were increased with 31 of $K_1$ 8.3 of $K_2$ and 3.8 of $K_3$. Also, The higher value of $K_4$ could be obtain with shorter loop length. When the loop length became longer, the $K_4$ value was varied in a wide range with the treatment of wet relaxation and subsequent tumble dry.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.164-183
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• 2020

In the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty, the historic record of Banpo is fragmentary and contains many missing details. The main reason is a lack of associated literature, and it is also significant that the actual substance used is not clear at present. Banpo is a kind of cotton, but this has not been confirmed in the traditional textiles that are currently handed down. The word Ban [斑] in Banpo means "stain", and the letter Po [布] means "fabric". At the border of white discourse, Banpo did not receive attention as a research topic. This study is an attempt to restore some of the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty through Banpo. Banpo is not just limited to the Joseon Dynasty; it is an important material for examining the development of textile culture and exchange in East Asia. This study was broadly divided into three parts. First, the record and meaning of Banpo during the Joseon Dynasty were examined. Records of Banpo can be seen from the early Joseon period during King Sejo and Seongjong, and the production and actual use of Banpo have been confirmed. Banpo was maintained until the beginning of the 20^th century, but is no longer observed. Banpo is a woven fabric made of cotton yarn dyed in many colors and has appeared in Southeast Asia since ancient times. In East Asia, there are other fabrics similar to Banpo, such as Ho [縞], Sum [纖], and Chim [綅]. In particular, the correlation between Banpo and Ho is an important link in understanding Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty. Second, the meaning of Banpo was examined from various angles through comprehensive analysis of Chinese and Japanese literature records and cases. The appearance and development of Banpo moved in sync with the period when cotton was introduced into East Asia. In East Asia, cotton was introduced and produced in earnest from the end of the Song Dynasty to the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, and the meaning of Banpo was diversified. In China, the name of Banpo was changed to Hwapo [花布], Gizapo [碁子布], Gizahwapo [棋子花布], etc. Japan was late to introduce cotton and developed it in acceptance of the changed meaning. In Japan, use of the name Banpo is not on record, but a Ryujo [柳條] fabric of the same type as banpo has been identified. This Ryujo is the same concept as Ho and Hwapo, and later merged into Ho. Names such as Ho, Hwapo, Banpo, etc. were used differently in each country, but the form was shared across East Asia. Third, based on the meaning of Banpo shared in East Asia, the format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty was classified. The format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty can be divided into grid and striped versions. The name Banpo disappeared over time, but the form remained and was passed down until recently. I hope that this study will help restore Banpo in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to analyze and minimize structural error between sample knitting and actual knitting in weft knitting apparel. Basic stitches used in this study were plain stitch, $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, Milan rib stitch. They were knitted into two different gauges(7 and 12 gauge) and 6 different sample sizes by computer program. The weight, length and width of these 5 basic knitting stitches were measured and their changes according to gauge, stitch and knitting were calculated and analyzed. The results were as follows; The weight of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by Milan rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, plain stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. As the density of stitch per unit area increases, the weight increases. The length of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch and Milan stitch in both 7 and 12 gauge. As the number of course increases, the length increases accordingly. However, its increase ratio shows higher than that of number of course. It means that the reduction in number of course is needed to get aimed length. The width of Milan rib stitch was the largest, followed by $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch in 7 gauge. In 12 gauge, Milan stitch, plain stitch and $0{\times}0$ rib stitch were the highest, followed by $2{\times}2$ rib stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. It showed that the change in shape of stitch influenced on the width more than the length of stitch.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.53-75
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• 1998

The kind, the structure, and the motif of the Chosun dynasty's fabrics found mainfy within the Buddhist statues were studied. The total of 62 pieces of fabrice can be classified chronologically as follows ; 27 pieces in the year of 1431, 20 pieces of 1550, 9 pieces of 1664, and 6 pieces of 1735. These 62 fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 27 plain weaved, 17 twill weaved, 10 pieces of satine weaved, 7 pieces of Leno weaved, and 1 piece of double weaved fabrics. Most of the studied fabrics were silk, the rest were 2 pieces of yam and 1 piece of cotton, Kyun, Chu, and Cho were the plain weaved silk as Nung and Ki were the twill weaved silk, Satine weaved silk was called as Dan and double weaved silk was called Chikum in the Chosun dynasty. 1. The antique fabrics were composed of mainly silk. This is believed due to the utmost devotion to the buddhist statue as an object of worship. 2. In the fabric's structural point of view, th ecrossed 4-ply threads of warp yarn which is one of Leno weaved can be observed fre-quently in the period of Korea dynasty's fabrics. But it started to disappear in the beginning of Chosun dynasty, since only one piece of Ra could be found in the 1431's fabrics. Keum, one of the double weaved structure is assumed to be extinct from the Korea dynasty. Satin weaved fabrics started to be woven from the latter period of Korea dynasty and was very popular in Chosun dynasty. 3. The widths of fabrics in the Chosun dynasty gradually decreased compared with those of Korea dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.1933-1946
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• 2010

This paper is a comparative analysis of the $19^{th}$ century practice of indigo dyes and dyeing in Korea and England. From over hundreds species of indigo plants in the world, it was dyer's knotweed and woad that were cultivated in Korea; however, the only indigo plant grown in England was woad. Indigo dye was produced in the form of damp indigo sediment (jeon) in Korea; however, imported indigo (as a main dye) and couched woad (as an additional dye) were indigo dyes used in England. There existed three kinds of indigo vats, the ice vat, ash-water vat, and indigo sediment (jeon) vat, in Korea. The fresh leaves of indigo were used for both the ice vat and ash-water vat. The ice vat was very convenient for preparation, but had a weakness in the inability to produce a very deep shade of blue. The ash-water vat and indigo sediment (jeon) vat were in use for producing a very deep shade of blue. The indigo sediment Goon) vat was employed presumably only by professional dyers. The indigo vat practiced in England was categorized into two types; one was woad-indigo vat, and the other was an indigo powder vat prepared by using imported indigo rock. There was a tendency to adopt different kinds of indigo vats according to the material to be dyed. The woad-indigo vat was employed for the dyeing of wool. A few of chemical vats with imported indigo were adopted, especially for the dyeing of cotton. Indigo dyers in 19th century Korea were differentiated from the rest of the dyers. They managed the growing of indigo plants as well as the production of indigo sediment (jeon). Woad dyers in 19th century England handled woolen cloth as well as worsted and woolen yarn in general. However, they sometimes dyed silk skein as well. They produced several colors such as black, blue, slates, grays, by using both woad and imported indigo.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.231-239
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• 2013

This research developed a smart girdle for adult women in their 20's that has an inserted carbon weaving heater to help with relief from coldness and abdominal disease through the thermal insulation effect. A pocket of powernet fabric was attached to the inside of the girdle for the easy insertion and separation of the heating device, while the heating device was fixed to a mesh material by cotton yarn and was wrapped with elastic lining material to prevent the mechanical devices from being exposed. A set of 3 hooks was attached to the center of the back of the heating device in consideration of convenience and mobility. Whereas the switch was inserted into around the right waistband, and the battery into the inner pocket around the waist, to integrate the heating device with the girdle. The satisfaction and usability of the fabricated smart girdle was verified by having research participants wear it to evaluate the appearance change caused by the device, the inconvenience of wearing/unwearing, mobility, and the satisfactory functionality of the device. As a result, the grand mean was evaluated to be high, with appearance (4.19), mobility (4.17), and functionality (4.51) being higher than 4.00; which indicates that the heat generation function of the smart girdle is effective. It may be said that such collection and analysis of data that reflect users' opinions have value and significance in that they can be grafted onto future research on new technology as well as they contribute to taking a step forward in the rapidly increasing research of smart clothing, with the new-type clothing equipped with new function.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.71-83
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• 2005

In this study, we reviewed the color changes accompanying the laundering, wash fastness, and abrasion fastness of chitosan-treated cochineal-dyed fabrics. The treatment methods were classified into two based on the chitosan treatment: (Method 1): fabric specimens were pre-treated with chitosan prior to the dyeing procedure in salt form. (Method 2): the state of chitosan acid salt formation, coated on the yarn surface, was destroyed and neutralized prior to the dyeing process. The changes in the chitosan treatment methods bear more important meaning in view of the durability. In Method 1, it is highly likely for the chitosan to be detached from the surface by water during laundering since the chitosan is coated as acid salt state. In Method 2, the resistance d the chitosan to water was supposed to revive since the chitosan would return to its original state. Differences in the resistance of the chitosan treatrrent, however, according to the Method 1 and Method 2, fell short of our expectations. In Method 2, the wash fastness did not improve as we expected since the bond between the fibers comprising fabric specimens and the chitosan is not high even if the chitosan itself has high resistance to water.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.534-539
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• 2020

Experimental research is needed to provide information on the removal of bloodstains since washing clothes contaminated with blood is necessary for medical related fields (such as ambulance workers and doctors) as well as for women of childbearing age. This study investigated efficient washing conditions for the removal of bloodstains with a focus on washing temperature, fiber type and blood ageing time. Polyester/cotton fabric showed the highest detergency from among three fabrics that were influenced by the composition of the fiber and the structure of the yarn and fabric. When examining the effect of detergent, it was concluded that the alkalinity over pH 10 was essential to remove bloodstains and that auxiliary agents such as soil antiredeposition agents and bleach had a significant effect on the removal of bloodstains. Washing temperature showed the highest detergency at 20℃ due to the activity of the enzyme without the denaturalization of blood. Blood-ageing influenced detergency by inducing changes in the adsorption area and chemical bond. A combination of methods such as quick removal after contamination, use of alkaline detergents including soil antiredeposition agents and bleach, and low-temperature washing could help remove bloodstains.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Resources Recycling Conference
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• 2006.05a
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• pp.78-85
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• 2006

In textile industries, waste effluent containing zinc is generated during the manufacture of rayon yarn from the wood pulp or cotton linters. Due to the strict environmental regulations and the presence of toxic metallic and other constituents, the discharge of industrial effluents in the sewage or disposal of solid sludge as landfill is restricted. Before recycling of zinc as zinc sulphate solution to the spinning-bath of the rayon manufacturing plant the zinc sulphate solution must be free from calcium, which is deleterious to the process as gypsum precipitates with the increase in concentration and forms scale in the bath. In the present work an attempt has been made to develop a process following solvent extraction technique using thiophosphinic extractants, Cyanex 272 and 302 modified with isodecanol and diluted in kerosene to recover zinc from rayon effluent. Various process parameters viz. extraction of zinc from different concentration of solution, distribution ratio, selective extraction, O/A ratio on extraction and stripping from the loaded organic, complex formation in the organic phase etc. have been studied to see the feasibility of the process. The extractant Cyanex 302 has been found selective for the recovery of 99.99% of zinc from the effluent above equilibrium pH 3.4 maintaining the O/A ratio of 1/30 leaving all the calcium in the raffinate. It selectively extracted zinc in the form of complex $[R_{2}Zn.3RH]_{org}$ and retained all the calcium in the aqueous raffinate. The zinc from the loaded Cyanex 302 can be stripped with 10% sulphuric acid at even O/A ratio of 10 without affecting the stripping efficiency. The stripped solution thus obtained could be recycled in the spinning bath of the rayon plant. The raffinate obtained after the recovery of zinc could be disposed safely without affacting environment.