• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.165-171
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• 1981

During the period of 3rd Tae-Jong and 4th Se-Jong, Yi Dynasty has established sound basis for ruling power and aristocratic social cast system. And the regulation for official dress has also been firmly established during the same period. The establishment of KWAN BOK SACK (Office of Hat-Dress) in 16th year of Tae-Jong (1416 A.D.) and the enforcement of KWAN BOK JI JAE (System of Hat and Dress) in 8th year of Se-Jong(1426 A.D) indicates the completion of system of official dress in the dynasty. In this study, the author tried to find out the concept of color in the ruling society since the concept of color in KWAN BOK JI JAE, which is the social reglation in the fendal dynasty, had greatly been influenced by these class of people. Effort has also been given to investigate what motivated the establishment and enforcement of KWAN BOK JI JAE, through the descriptions revealed in SE-JONG SILLOK. It can be concluded in the first that, in KWAN BOK JI JAE no new color concept appeared and its significance only remains on the fact that it establshed the social regulations which were existed before. And secondly, the works of Se-Jong in KWAN BOK JI JAE, in contrast to his magnificance in other fields, only showed great influence of toadyism (Chinese culture).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.139-153
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• 2004

The first purpose of this study was to compare the fashion zones and fashion brands on the floors in small and medium volume department store with those of big department stores within adjacent trading area. The second purpose was to find out similarity and differentiation of near-by department stores. The third one was to propose the future fashion marketing strategies of the department stores. The methods used were references, internet, field observation, and interview in 2002. Eight department stores within adjacent trading area were classified and analysed In "Gangnam division", "Seocho division＇. and "Youngdeungpo division". The results were as follows : Firstly, there was a low relationship between the degrees of brand equalization of each department store in the "Gangnam, Seocho. and Youngdeungpo division". Secondly, there was an alteration on the floor layout of each department store. It was layed out in a way that allowed for customers, who wanted to just purchase specific items, to go upstairs and look around several stores, which allowed for not only rise in the amount of sales but also offer the convenience of one stop shopping for the customers. Thirdly I proposed several marketing strategies such as lifestyle marketing, relationship marketing, and compile marketing which solves everyday life agenda. I also proposed the solution selling education to develop service education of salesperson. I finally proposed the overriding priority policy by sales record of each store.licy by sales record of each store.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.81-81
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• 2001

R.O.C. has experienced successively the development of previous dynasties that creates out the unique traditional culture of each stage. The Chinese nation is not a one-fold race; each dynasty absorbs the culture of the outside race. It is Tang Dynasty blends mutually however yield unusually brilliant results. The Tang Dynasty's national strength is forceful and the economy is prosperous. Above all, social custom and current of thought both break the constraint of previous dynasties' conservative thinking and keep positive and aggressive. While in the contact with extraterritorial culture, not only changes the feminine social status, but also produces unprecedented innovation and reform on the feminine dress. The Tang Dynasty's varied feminine suit is affected by the western regions of China culture, such as expose of chest, low collar, short top garment and skirt with narrow sleeves or wide sleeves, sleeve gown with plate collar or turndown collar, man's wear, and military dress, etc. An epoch can be known by Tang Dynasty feminine dress's special features, for example, the make-up of Tang-Shien-lon's Uan-Ho period presents dress style of late Tang days. However, the Chinese people compete mutually pursuing the strange costume, and accepting different cultural incitement This reveals that the changes of popular culture would result in the big transform of the Tang's dress style. This paper studies inherit of Tang Dynasty's culture and east-spread of the western regions of China culture. While understanding the Tang's favor in the western regions of China customs, all follow the western regions of China without exception, such as dance music, painting, dress, food, amusement, etc. Because of emperor's progressive race policy and forgiveness attitude to the foreign tribe that makes Tang Dynasty's feminine dress much easier to accept and blend the special features of the foreign tribe culture. While joined with west culture, and pick the dress's essence of the western regions of China, the original possessed of culture consciousness and esthetic sense improve and create their own dress, as well as enrich more inner part of dress art and the spirit.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.193-205
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• 2019

A trend analysis of research articles in a field of knowledge is significant because it can help in finding out the structural characteristics of the field and the future direction of research through observing change in a time series. We identified the structural characteristics and trends in text data (keywords) gathered from research articles which in itself is an important task in various research areas. The titles and keywords were crawled from research articles published from 2016 to 2018 in the Research Journal of the Costume Culture (RJCC), one of the representative Korean journal in the field of clothing and textile. After we extracted data comprising English titles and keywords from 195 published articles, we transformed it into a 1-mode matrix. We used measures from network analysis (i.e., link, strength, and degree centrality) for evaluating meaningful patterns and trends in the research on clothing and textile. NodeXL was used for visualizing the semantic network. This study observed change in the clothing and textile research trend. In addition to covering the core areas of the field, the subjects of research have been diversifying with every passing year and have evolved onto a developmental direction. The most studied area in articles published by the RJCC was fashion retailing/consumer psychology while aesthetic/historic and fashion industry/policy studies were covered to a more limited extent. We observed that most of the studies reflecting the identity of RJCC share subject keywords to a significant extent.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.307-314
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• 2021

This study aimed to apply the principle of the semantic network to a long novel in an attempt to understand the structure of the entire document and the manifested relationships between words and words. The costume expressions in Murakami's novel Norwegian Wood were analyzed based on the characters' symbols, relationships, and personality characteristics. The study identified the symbols of the characters in the novel and the relationship properties between the characters through the Clauset-Newman-Moore clustering algorithm. The descriptions and symbols of the relationships between the characters were identified within the worldview that the author had intended. Further, it was confirmed that the expression of each costume according to the character's personality was also connected to the clue that explained said character. This fusion study is academically significant in that it presents a new methodology for analyzing literary works

• Archives of design research
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to provide basic information for establishment of a desirable design promotion policy drive by research and analysis of recognition to design by consumers (including students) and designers and their level, merchandise evaluation evaluation and obstructing factors in revitalization of designs. To implement such purpose as referred to hereinabove, research was made by introduction of questionaires which were distributed to 500 persons of consumers group and 350 individuals of registered designers in Seoul, and for analysis of the data, density and percentage (%) were obtained by use of SAS Package and the dispersed analysis and correlationship were added for necessary parts. The result of study is summarized as follows; (l)The consumers remind the design as costume (21%) and molding (20%), and the designers remind it as creativity (27%) & molding (14%) respectively and the reminding of design by the two groups was indicated very simi lar. (p < 0.001) (2)As per the recogni tion of roles by the designers the research has highly indicated as contribution to improving living standards or development of economy & industry, and also indicated that it creates excessive consumption with sti$$\mu$ative manner. (3)The design reacts as an important parameter in selecting cri teria of merchandises and deciding factors for purchasing and also, in enhancement of competitive power of merchandise impact of design (2.36) was regarded very high. (4)The Korean-made home appliances in image is assessed as vulnerable than that of Japanese products, and the product designing level is also shown difference from advanced countries (1.36), but has indicated as somewhat better than those competitive nations (0.51) (5)The satisfaction to design policy of the Gov't is very low (1.69) and they recommended for new establishment of Policy undertaking department within the Gov't and indicated reasearch & development of design as the major issue. In regard to the above I'd like to emphasize the design industry $$\mu$t be dealt with the national level as a whole in order to promote thereof.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.171-180
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• 2012

Purchasing behavior of brand clothes in internet shopping mall is largely used on the purpose of having a good quality of clothing, price advantage and shopping efficiency. This study aims to find out consumer's evaluation on the properties of brand clothes in internet shopping mall according to consumer's brand attitude(brand identification and brand pursue value). The influences consumers' evaluation of the properties of brand clothes on the purchase satisfaction and off-line brand image evaluation were also investigated. This study surveyed male and female consumers in their 20s~40s for empirical analysis in August 2011 who have purchased brand clothing through internet shopping malls. The survey was conducted on 254 subjects who were selected through online convenience sampling. Data were analyzed by using SPSS for Windows 12.0, and descriptive statistics, reliability analysis, factor analysis, and regression analysis were done as well. The results are as follows. First, it was identified that consumers' brand identification and brand pursue value had significant influence on the evaluation of physical, functional, and expressional product properties. Second, it was identified that consumers' evaluation on the brand clothing properties significantly influenced on internet purchase satisfaction and brand image evaluation. Especially, expressive property of brand clothes appeared to be the most influential factor on purchase satisfaction and brand image evaluation. The results of this study will help clothing companies with prestigious brand names to administer the product qualities with differentiation policy from off-line sales and satisfy the consumer needs in internet shopping, hence enhancing the brand image of the company.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.595-603
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• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.131-142
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• 2006

This research has been done based on the Jeon Si Gwa(田柴科) regulation, the monumental inscription material and the former studies. The background of adapting the official uniform regulation in the early Goryeo Dynasty has been surveyed. Differentiating criterion in the official uniform color like purple(紫衫), red(丹衫), red(緋衫), and green(綠衫) has been studied. The official rank had been classified by the color of the official uniform in the early Goryeo uniform regulation. The lower class had worn purple(紫衫). The purple wearing class had not been the government post but the official rank. Those who worked for the Palace had worn purple color since purple color represented the Imperial Palace on which TAI-IL(太一), that is, the highest one of gods dwelt. Those who had worn red(丹色) in the monumental inscription had worked for the job associated with the military service or Hanlim savant(翰林學士) of Kwangmun Academy(光文院) and Hanlim Academy(翰林元). Dan Seo(丹書) which recorded King's commands also means the monumental inscription. In the Goryeosa(高麗史), the military class had been only in Dan Sam(丹衫). That means those class worn Dan Sam(丹衫) could have been as the strong supportive class for the Dynasty. In the early Goryeo Dynasty, the four colored uniform regulation had followed the enforcing policy of the royal authority. It has been assumed that the uniform regulation had been used as a way of enrolling the new supporting class into the existing official system. Dan Sam(丹衫) which had been worn only in the early Goryeo can be seen as the special class for strengthening the royal authority.