• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.2
• /
• pp.171-182
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study was to determine dimension of service quality, there by to analyze difference of service quality according to the types of fashion retail stores. and to investigate consumer variables (demographic characteristics, purchase behavior) and service quality which affect consumer satisfaction. The subject were 451 women in the age of twenty to forty years old who live in Seoul and the suburban of Seoul. The results of the study were as follows : First, it was found that fashion retail store's service quality was classified 5 factors: (1)salesperson. (2)convenience of shopping, (3)variety of product and facility. (4)store policy, (5)efficiency of movement. Second, departmentstore was evaluated the highest in terms of all factors. Discountstore was evaluated highly in terms of store policy and lowly in terms of variety of production and facility. East & South gate fashion shopping mall was evaluated the lowest in terms of all factors except variety of product and facility. Third, service quality and satisfaction showed significant differences in demographic characteristics. Purchase behavior of each fashion retail stores showed significant differences. The difference of service quality and satisfaction depending on purchase behavior showed a significant positive relation. Forth, service quality of discountstore and East & South gate fashion shopping mall were affected by purchase behavior partially. Departmentstore users were affected by salesperson and store policy. Discountstore users were affected by all factors except convenience of shopping. East & South fate fashion shopping mall users were affected by all factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.7
• /
• pp.37-45
• /
• 2003

This study is to research the changing trends in the trading goods and the cause of the change in the early Chosun dynasty and to find out the influence that the export goods had on the Chosun society. This research demonstrated the costume culture of the early Chosun was affected by the trading trends. The export items of Chosun showed differences in chronological order. They changed from hemp cloth to cotton cloth. The cause of such change in the export items was due to the change in the amount of demand and supply, to products of Chosun. and to social factors. Looking at the amount and items of the export goods to Japan, the amount was huge and the number of trade was a lot. There were several influences that the exporting cotton cloth to Japan had on Chosun's costume culture. First, the export caused the growth of cotton industry through the reinforcement policy. Next, it made the amount of national deposit of cotton cloth exhausted as a result of the increase in the amount of the exporting cotton. It also made worse the dual distribution structure of cotton cloth and the leaning toward bad cotton cloth. And in consequence of the connection between rich merchants and politicians, these social phenomena became worse and worse. And these facts demonstrate that the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty was affected by the trade between Chosun and Japan. Therefore, to better understand the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty, I propose to consider the consequences resulted from the trade with Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.37
• /
• pp.133-148
• /
• 1998

This study presents the aspects and changing process of the habiliment from the National Liberation up to now by analyzing the articles of costume found in$\ulcorner$Maeil Shinmun$\lrcorner$from Jan. 1. 1946 to Dec. 31. 1996. In the period of 1946~1959, the political and economic conditions through the National Liberation and Korean war deteriorated and the interest in costumes were weakened. But the economic recovery and social stability in the middle of the 50's made the lost interest in costumes increase. From 1960 to 1969, the high economic growth was achieved by“Five year plans for Economic Development”and the progress of mass media, transportation, communication and education brought western culture to our society. It spread rapidly and changed the way of life and the sence of value. These phenomenon led to a great transition on the Korean costume culture in the 60's In 1970~1979, the articless of costume made a change from the 60's, which focused on women's wear, and tuned to one including general costumes not only women's wear but also men's wear due to the women's social roles, the unisexmode and diverse costume. In 1980~1989, the growth of the consumption, the banning of the school uniform, Asian Games(1986) and Olympic games(1988) caused the high qualification, personalization and diversification in the fashion industry. Further more, the traditional-oriented trend with korean culture was emphasized. It pursued the modernization of the traditional Korean Costume, Hanbok, to introduce the unique Korean Beauty. From 1990 to 1996, in the era of international-ization and open door policy, the competition of nations became intense and the comprehention about environmental destruction highlingted the concerns on ecology. The recognition of environmental protection and recycling were reflected in the fashion. It prevailed that the pursuit of personalization,. diverse style, practicality and the fashion leader called generation appeared.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.4
• /
• pp.109-123
• /
• 2015

The object of this research is to take a bilateral look into cultural exchanges of the Netherlands and Japan through the East India Company and thereby improve the general understanding in regards to the exchanges of costume cultures between the East and the West. The study conducted qualitative analyses on features of contemporary costumes of the Netherlands and Japan from 1602 to 1799 by investigating the secondary sources, such as the histories of costumes, arts, and literature. The results are as follows; the traditional sleeves of the Japanese Kimono were basically cut out in a straight line. However due to the growing popularity of the kimono home gown in Europe, the producers of the kimono in India as well as several other European countries modified them into western-style sleeves. Regarding the costumes of the Netherlands, which were introduced to Japan, the study found that Japan imported Dutch fabrics, instead of specific clothing items. In Japan, costume controls and anti-conspicuous consumption regulations among social classes including a closed-door policy had negative effects on both developments and exchanges of costumes of the country. However, when it comes to the Jinbaori, a costume for ruling classes, Japan was open to using fabrics, patterns and designs of the West. In light of what have been discussed so far, the study confirmed that the costume exchanges between the two countries started long after their first business of the general cultural exchanges. Though it is clear that the advancements in the natural sciences that the Japanese made can be attributed to the West, Japan was one of the nations that impacted the costume cultures in Europe.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.24
• /
• pp.59-82
• /
• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.49-62
• /
• 2014

This study is intended to historical research the Jebok(ritual robes) of Jirisan Namakje. Joseon Dynasty established Five Manners as a country-ruling policy on the basis of Confucianism, the religious clothes-wearing method has been established through Sejong Silok Five Manners and the ritual robes system of all the government officials has been handed down to the end of Joseon Dynasty. The ritual robes of all the government officials was worn at the timed of the religious ceremony included ritual manners, and ritual robes are composed of Yanggwan, Ui, Sang, Jungdan, Peasul, Hwan, Wu(a cord, a leather belt, a belt, jade, a mace, Bangsimgokryeong, Mal, Ri, etc., and the rank was classified by the number of the veritical line of Ynaggwan, a leather belt, Hwan, Wu and jade and typeof a mace. "Jongmyouigwe" during the reign of king Sukjong described exactly the Uicha and textile of the ritual robes at that time, the textile Ui used Heukju as same as "Jegiakgidogamuigwe", and jade was used only in case of the first rank ritual official and other government officials did not wear jase. Also, it was revealed that all officials used a wooden mace, and in case of Husu, the first rank ritual official used Jikseong and other official used a picture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.8
• /
• pp.171-187
• /
• 2013

This is a study on the military costumes of Hunryeondogam, which was the center of Five Military Camps in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty. I confirmed the characteristics and system of military costumes of Hunryeondogam by document research and positive research. The military organization of Hunryeondogam was comprised of the high-ranking military officers such as Hunryeondaejang, Junggun, Cheonchong, Byeoljang and Gukbyeoljang, the mid and low ranking military officers such as Pachong, Chogwa and soldiers. And the military costume of Hunryeondogam included Gapju, Yoongbok and Goonbok for military officers and all kinds of military uniforms for soldiers. Imjin war and ritualized military ceremonies in the era of peace had influence on the military costume. Officers, for example, were wearing Dangap and soldiers were wearing Cheolgap or Pigap that depended on the branch of the army. Politically, kings in the mid and the late Joseon had organized military organizations to strengthen their royal authority. I think that the policy can be effectively seen by observing the military costume system. The qualitative differences in cloth materials and the presence or absence of patterns of Goonbok, the qualitative differences in the decoration of Jeonrip and the presence or absence of Yodae were able to distinguish the identity and the rank. An assumption can be made that these things could have been affected by social causes, such as frequent trips of the King and stable society. This cause could be influence on substitute Yoongbok with Goonbok that from the low ranking military officers to the high ranking military officers of Hunryeondogam. The societal changes in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty are reflected on the military costumes system of Hunryeondogam.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.1
• /
• pp.122-134
• /
• 2016

The Mural Tomb of Xu Xianxiu(AD 571), a high ranking official in Northern Qi period, is located in Taiyuan, Shanxi province, China. Despite having been raided, it was still discovered to contain over 530 pieces, such as artifacts and murals, in excellent state of preservation. These murals are noteworthy for their high level of detail compared to other murals from the same era, and are important for understanding the historical context of active East-West and Han-Hu cultural exchange in the $6^{th}$ to $7^{th}$ century. The murals of Xu Xianxiu's tomb depict round-collared and narrow-sleeved garments as well as straight collared robes typical of the Xianbei tribe's attire. Notable are the ermine fur overcoat and a headwear with flares on the left and right thought to be unique to the Xianbei. The wife and female servants show female attire of the Xianbei at the time; this attire can be characterized by narrow-sleeved long gowns and asymmetrical flying-bird buns. Despite the anti-Han policy of Northern Qi, influences such as the right sided gathering of the robes and embellished hair styles remain. The procession also depicts the three-cornered headdress and long-tailed hood of the Xianbei men, which have been recorded in documents. The large rounded pearl pattern containing the palmette, the divine animal, and bodhisattva's head motifs show the influence of the Western China [Xi'yu]. Considering that Northern Qi had more active interactions with the three ancient kingdoms of Korea than with the Southern Kingdoms[Nanchao], the findings of this study call for further research on the correlation between the attire of ancient Korea and Northern Qi.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.132-149
• /
• 2016

With the increased importance of design creativity in global fashion marketplaces, there have arisen numerous promotional strategies for new fashion designers in Korea, yet little research has been done on this subject. This study examines the new fashion design promotion policies in Korea and their effects from the designer's perspective. First, we analyzed the contents of twenty-one strategies from thirteen organizations regarding the types of support from the strategies. As a result, four distinct types are identified: new designer recognition; information and consulting support; brand incubating; and marketing support. Next, we performed in-depth one-on-one interviews with eleven designers who had been awarded from one or more of the fashion design incubation policies. The results reveal that the incubating policies' cash rewards and space support are found to be most effective. In terms of the revised fashion and brand consulting policy, "brand operation" had an influence. In addition, fashion the new brand advertisement and marketing policy had positively influenced the "brand development." However, throughout the interview, designers note that the quality of education and information provisions need some improvement. Furthermore, the designers indicate the lack of supervision and professionalism from the marketing departments. Based on this content, this study emphasizes the necessity of an effective fashion design promotion policy, and strategic and consistent support for the whole fashion promotion team. At the minimum, an integrated and united supervision by the organization is necessary and should be taken into consideration.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.715-727
• /
• 2006

The purposes of this study are to investigate the job satisfaction, customer satisfaction and revisiting intention to beauty shops, and to examine the difference of the job satisfaction, customer satisfaction, and revisiting intention between franchised and non-franchised beauty shops. Data were obtained via questionnaire, which developed by results of pretest and previous studies, from workers and consumers of beauty shops in Busan. They were analyzed by factor analysis, t-test and regression. The results were as follows; First, the job satisfaction of beauty shops workers was composed of Adaptation, Operation and Instruction. For both of franchised and non-franchised beauty shops, the operation of beauty shops greaty influenced the job satisfaction of workers, and job satisfaction is not significantly different. Second, consumer satisfaction related to services of beauty shops is composed of three factors: Policy, Personal service, and Physical environment. Regardless of shop types, the policy of shop influenced the consumer satisfaction. Consumers' revisiting intentions to beauty shops are influenced by consumer satisfaction. Third, consumers in franchised beauty shops is less likely to be satisfied and to have the intentions to revisit than those of non-franchised beauty shops. Resulted provide some insights to develop strategies for franchised and non-franchised beauty shops. Limitations and future research directions have been discussed.