• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.75-81
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• 2021

첨단 정보통신 기술의 발달에 따라 디지털 문화에 익숙한 Z세대는 미래 패션을 재편할 수 있는 패션 산업의 주요 소비층으로 관심이 집중되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 디지털 기기에 능숙하고 인터넷을 통한 정보 습득 및 모바일 라이프스타일에 친숙한 Z세대를 위한 캐쥬얼웨어를 3D 가상 시뮬레이션에 의해 디자인하여 걸리쉬, 스포티브, 이지, 컨템포러리의 4가지 룩으로 디자인 전개하였다. 의상디자인에 3D 가상 착의 시뮬레이션의 활용은 팬데믹 환경에서 디지털 패션 디자인기획 및 생산 프로세스와의 융합을 통한 미래 패션 산업의 디지털화를 구축하고 온라인 플랫폼의 유통을 강화시킬 수 있다. 언택트 패션 제작 시스템을 도입하여 업무의 효율성 강화를 위한 지속적인 혁신을 시도하고 있는 기업 환경에서 3D 가상의상 기술의 활용은 3D 샘플 제작, 온라인 피팅, 수정과 보정 및 품평을 통해 업무 프로세스에서 소통이 확대되고 인적, 물적 자원의 경감에 따른 긍정적 효과를 통해 지속 가능한 패션의 가치를 확대시킬 수 있다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.15-33
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• 2016

Women in their 30s and 40s, who are at the center of "ageless" and "down-aging" consumer trends, are likely to encounter problems with fitting and size conformity when they wear casual clothes targeting women in their 20s. Hence, differences in upper body sizes and body types between women in their 20s and women in their 30s and 40s were analyzed. The data for this study was from the 6th Size Korea survey of body measurements of 1,675 female adults in their 20s-40s. SPSS 21.0 for Windows was used for analysis of the collected data. To examine differences in average upper body size between women in their 20s and women in their 30s and 40s, descriptive statistics and independent sample t-tests were conducted. Factor and cluster analyses were used to classify body types by age groups. Comparing direct measurement items showed that women in their 20s tend to have higher average values for most height-related items-including body height-and lower average values for circumference, thickness, and width than women in their 30s and 40s. Factors in determining the upper body shapes of women in their 20s to 40s were narrowed to five; through a cluster analysis, upper body shapes of women were classified into three body types as follows. Type 1 women are shorter and thinner with small frames; Type 2 women have the highest vertical values for their upper bodies and average values for obesity-related categories of circumference, thickness, and width. Type 3 women are the shortest and has the highest body mass index (BMI), verifiable as obese. By analyzing differences in body type distribution according to age groups, it was found that more than 90% of women in their 20s belong to Types 1 and 2. On the other hand, most women in their 30s and 40s are identified as Type 3.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.129-139
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• 1999

This paper analyzes the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy to each other. Based on the chronological analysis, we propose a new category for the fashion and make-up trend in 1990s, which is 1) traditional ecology period(1990∼1994), 2) versatile trial or decadent period(1995∼1997), and 3) soft landing period based on the minimal neo-ecology and romanticism(1998∼2000). Between 1990 and 1994, there was no differentiation in seasons. It appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend have had no big differences. At the beginning in 1990s, it was basically based on ecology concept that emphasizes the natural image. However after 1995, seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. The trends of spring/summer in 1996 could be named as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel, and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. In 1998, pastel tone, pink, and purple color expresses the glamorous look based on the romantic feminism. S/S of 1999 is mainly represented by minimalism and avant garde. For fall/winter trends, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors in 1995 and 1996. These colors were the symbol of property and sentiment. Gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image. At that time, ethnic and romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet. In 1998, romanticism was popular again with modernism and ethnic mood. It expressed the romantic elegant image. The trend has returned to the ecology mood again in 1999. This ecology is somewhat different from the previous ecology. It adds a sofistaiced feeling and sportic fashion. To express natural and sportic image, they choose pink blush. In coming 2000 as a new millennium, the yellow color will be main the stream to express vision, dream, and happiness in both fashion and make-up as an accent color. The minimal design and minimal tools will be used for the design and make-up, respectively. In addition, the fusion concept will dominate the fashion and make-up industry in the globalized and boundariless age. Through this paper, we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people and industry.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2002

This paper is the second part of a series of the research about the Teddy boy style which is to examine various fashion changes in subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the creation and meaning of the Teddy boy style, how it interacted with the elements of class and generation and how the materials needed by the group constructed and appropriated into the visible systematic cultural form of correspondence. The Teddy Boys are the first recognized members of the British youth culture, which is known as the new Edwardian because of their dress. They had created the concept of the "teenagers," which forms the basis of the sense of a "generation" in the 20th century. The Teds set the style that would be used and modified in the following generations. They adopted the Edwardian style of the upper class, and changed it into their own style by modifying it and adding to it some other elements. The Teddy boys style is a special version of the sartorial appropriation encountered in the sphere of the fashion history. It actually began immediately after the war by the upper class youth far from the working class neighborhood. In the late 1953, the elitist aura surrounding the Edwardian suit was suddenly shattered. Within just a few months, the Edwardian suit became a source of social anxiety and the focus of a symbolic battle. Although the Edwardian look had initially went back to the upper class root, it became a symbol of rootlessness. In appropriation of this image, The Teddy boys were also rejecting the sartorial conformism of the English working class with its modest tradition. In this respect, the Teds effected the ascent or fall of the working class in the area of fashion. The Teds dress was not a merely borrowed fashion, but was a bastard fashion in the form of American trends, the Zoot suit. At this time members of the working class possessed only work dress for the week and waist suits for the Sunday outings. Teds broke this pattern, and developed the working class dandyism of wearing clothes simply to show off. The results were that they succeeded in opening the teen market, and popularizing a working class style for the first time in British history. The Teds became the first British street style with ties music, and remain as an symbol of the rising of a new age of values and styles.f values and styles.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.35-59
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• 2002

The purpose of the study is to clarify the relationship between hair style and personal character. This is elucidated by using the standard model of their preferred hair style to their individual to their personality. The study is primarily centered around college woman, who reside in Young dong area. The research suggested that In the age group 19-25 subjects preferred their hair to be shoulder length or longer. This is in contrast to the older age group preferring a shorter hair style. Certainly most subjects under the age of 25 preferred their natural hair texture as opposed to permed hair fashioned by older subject. Difference is personality traits was not a factor here. There is a relationship between personality traits, personal background and whether or not subjects dyed or decolored their hair. Subjects responded "yes" which means that they are easily affected by the two factors. The response to the other question of which color they chose, if they dyed and decolored, was that the most of the cases preferred brown color because brown is a natural looking hair color. Their responses from the question "what kind of style they want, if they can change their style differently", they preferred a fashionable hair style. In most cases, individual responded that they change their hair style once in every two or three months. Of all the personality traits, 48.1% were adventurous, changingtheir hair style more than once in every 6 months. The main reason they change their hair style is that they are bored with their old style. In the under 25 age group, the cost of changing their hair style is usually paid for by the subjects parents, however a few responded that they paid for themselves. Over the age of 25 years 80% usually paid for themselves. Additionally students who supported themselves financially paid for hair restyling themselves. When changing a hair style most subjects consider that new hair style should go with their existing image. "What kind of image they want to show others？" almost all of them responded that they want to look sophisticated and fashionable, In the age group 25 and over who belong to the upper class want their hair to look healthy and a full of body. They also responded about their changing their hair style to show a different appearance positively,fferent appearance positively.

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.136-151
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• 2014

This study systematically analyzed types of fashion brand application focusing on accounts created in Korea. While referring to 'Chanel' which has developed a fashion brand app for the first time in August of 2008, not only for App store by Apple Inc. of the greatest market share but also for Android market, the one and only competitor of App store, the study examined cases of fashion brand app in Korea and foreign countries which have been in service till August of 2013 since the year of 2008. To achieve the research goal, the study conducted a literature research and a case review, categorizing the app by their distinctive functions which were Basic Information, SNS, AR, LBS, Entertainment, Mobile Shopping and Live Streaming. As for the first function, Basic Information, it was considered to provide information on a brand such as prices, sizes and colors of products which should be the most fundamental function of a fashion brand. The function would include look book, catalogues, photographs and others of products, helping users of the app with their understanding on images and concepts of the brand. Second, SNS function was considered useful for its mobility and communication and with the help of theirs, the users share fashion information with each other. Third, AR function as in a filed of virtual reality would edit virtual objects to look real in an actual environment. This would eventually offer the users a chance to try for clothes virtually. The fourth function, LBS, would work with GPS to find a store closest from a present location. This would be a help when the users try to find stores holding promotion events or trails while hiking in mountains. The fifth Entertainment function would include all sorts of games and chances for the users to listen to music and keep fashion diaries. The sixth function, Mobile Shopping, would help the users purchase items online via the app as they would not visit a store in person. The seventh function, Live Streaming, would give the users chances to actually see fashion collections in real time, held all over the world in every season. Because of this function, not only fashion experts but also regular people have become able to enjoy the fashion shows. The distinctive characteristics of the fashion brand application discussed in the study will be a useful reference when any relevant fields try to design other new fashion brand application.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.23-34
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.127-139
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to understand the preference of fashion materials according to the degree of consciousness and satisfaction of body. A survey was conducted using the randomly selected 439 woman students in the twenties. The consciousness variable had three levels which were lean, medium, and obese shape for each whole, upper and lower body with self-consciousness. Also, satisfaction variable had three levels which were satisfying, average, and unsatisfying group. We analyzed the data using analysis of correlation, crosstabulation analysis, and analysis of variance including Duncan multiple test. The results were as follows: 1) There was the positive correlation between height, leg, and arm length, and each variable, and the negative correlation between back, hip, thigh, waist, lower leg, ankle, and upper arm, and each variable. Also, we could observe the pattern that the larger the head or the more the weight was, the lower the satisfaction of body was. 2) There were no strong correlation between breast and hand size and each variable. From the crossed classification, we could observe the trend that the smaller the breast was, the lower the satisfaction of body was. 3) There were the strong correlation between whole and upper body in consciousness degree and between whole and lower body in satisfaction. 4) The consciousness of the whole body was shown lean shape 23.4%. medium shape 49.2%, and obese shape 27.2%. For the satisfaction degree of the whole body, satisfaction was shown 6.8%, average 41.7% and unsatisfaction 51.4%, so the satisfaction group is very small. 5) From the analysis for the consciousness degree of the whole body, the preferred fashion materials were polyester and acetate in casual wear, linen, polyester, acryl, T/W, and polyurethan in formal wear, and cotton, nylon, TIC, and T/W in sports wear. There was significant difference in casual wear, formal wear, and sports wear, but, not in underwear and accessories among he consciousness groups. 6) From the analysis for the satisfaction degree of the whole body, the preferred fashion materials were linen, silk, and acetate in casual wear, cotton in underwear, polyurethane in formal wear, and nylon in sports wear. There was the significant difference in casual wear, underwear, formal wear and sports wear, but, not in accessories among the satisfaction groups.